Summer Solstice

Sounds serious...or not.

Doing a Google search on each code brought this up. Common Problems That Trigger the P083B Code Transmission Control Module (TCM) failure Transmission fluid level is low Transmission fluid pressure sensor failure Wiring issue

You are overdue for fluid and filter. A relatively easy and inexpensive scheduled maintenance item. Yes, it may cause minor problems like you are experiencing. You will also have the opportunity to examine the pan and fluid for any evidence of wear.

You don't mention having ever done a fluid and filter change. That would be a good place to start based on age and miles.

You can do it yourself but after labor and materials is it really worth it. The possibility of an air bubble on this vehicle is high and that is a pain to work out.

^^ What he said. The battery in my 2016 failed at 2 years. All the lights worked and it threw all kinds of crazy error messages. Started twice with a jump. The second time, drove it to the dealer. One dead cell in battery. Replaced under warranty and has been fine since.

I read that too. However, for those who have said the Journey does not have enough power, you can get a Durango Hellcat. 6.2L Supercharged Hemi with 710hp. It's a shame. There is still use for a smaller size but it's about profits. Glad I have mine.

...from a happy Journey owner.

Here is a general guide to car alarms that may help you locate components. The easiest way to disable the alarm is disconnecting the power source or a kill switch. Perhaps it's worth taking to a local shop and having them disconnect it. It would be far quicker and likely not that costly. https://www.wikihow.com/Install-a-Car-Alarm

Have you tried the suggestion in your other thread on this?

That was a VERY interesting read. Thank you for the link.

Clearly the above account has been hacked. This is a Dodge forum and the poster does not have a complaint? Thanks for the positive feedback on a dealer. There are too few of those.

That grill and front lights make it look just a little angry.

Before you buy an extended warranty, check what the current vehicle has. When I bought mine, the dealer tried to sell me a certified, pre-owned warranty that would cover the vehicle until 100,000 miles. I declined. I believed that it had just the factory bumper-to-bumper until 36,000 miles and the powertrain until 60,000 miles. Once I had the vehicle I created an account at Mopar.com. Once I entered my VIN # I found out that the vehicle already had a pre-owned warranty that covered the powertrain until 100,000 miles. The dealer mislead me, either deliberately or by mistake. Given the additional experience that I had with them after the sale, I am inclined to believe the former. I no longer patronize that dealer. Go to Mopar.com and enter the vehicle VIN #. I don't know if you have to create an account or not but you can find out what the existing warranty is and whether, as a former lease, it may already be a certified vehicle with an extended warranty. Take the time to verify what the seller is telling you by checking yourself directly with Chrysler. As for the extended warranty, be sure that what you choose is an official Chrysler factory warranty rather than a third party. I was fortunate to get in just under the wire and get the unlimited option, which is consistent with the way I intend to keep the vehicle. Otherwise, the internet options for the extended factory warranties are the way to go. I went thru Clay Robbins who is no longer associated with ChryslerFactoryPlans but Robbins Motor Company in Kansas.

Welcome from a 2016 owner. I too bought mine off-lease under 18000 miles. I have been very happy. I too bought the extended warranty over the internet for a lot less than the dealer offered it at the time of sale.i have not needed to use it yet but intend to keep the vehicle for many years.

Read my answer above. I referenced both outlets.

Consult your Owner's Manual. The center console, under the radio should not operate when the vehicle is off. The one inside should. If the one inside does not, verify that it does when the vehicle is running.

When shopping for any car, I visit a few trusted review sites. I scan the negative reviews for anything that seems to be a common issue. I take all of them with a grain of salt knowing that angry and upset people are more likely to leave a review than someone that is out happily driving around. That is why I use common complaints as a guideline of expectation ONLY. I like this site and find it to be a good indicator for my impressions afterward. Note the actual number of complaints against total number sold. https://www.carcomplaints.com/ I check this site for recalls. https://www.nhtsa.gov/recalls I also check out Edmunds and Carfax. Again, I take them with a grain of salt and use common sense to weed out for what appears to be legitimate and common concerns. Never buy a vehicle without an extensive test drive, preferably all day, and never buy a vehicle without a competent inspection on a hoist.

Get it scanned for the Check Engine Light code. It may be a simple sensor. Scan for the codes before doing anything else. If it is due for transmission service, fluid and filter change, do that after scanning for the codes. Only after doing the above, have it properly diagnosed at a reputable shop. If the estimate is for major repairs, get a second opinion at another reputable shop.

Why did you change rhe battery? Where you having problems before? Did you change it just before this started? If not, then I agree with OhareFred. Start by checking the work you did, including testing the new battery to make sure it is not a lemon.

I have done it both ways. Currently shopping for this on a different vehicle and finding the prices to be not that much different for a the new parts you get. Something to watch for is the spring diameter on the quick struts. The diameter of the spring metal itself will determine a softer or harsher ride as well as affect body roll. Try to stay with OEM diameter unless you want to modify the ride characteristics.

^^ What he said. Often times auto part stores can be found that will test these items for free. If so inclined, you can remove the belt and hand turn accessible individual pulleys, such as the alternator and tensioner, and judge for yourself if they feel improper.

Not really. The 98 Ford in my driveway still has the wiper blades it had when it died over 2 years ago. They will still be on it when the tow truck takes it to the scrap yard.