NavalLacrosse

19" Tires for me cost about $89 USD/pc at Discount tire. Not really any more or less expensive than any other tire i've encountered. They are definitely less likely to be in stock that other tire at common retailers (like Walmart, from my experience). Discount Tire had them in stock, ready same day.

There are many reasons, Sadly the main issues are likely due to the increased cost to make the Journey Compliant with the DOT towing requirements which changed in 2010 to better reflect real driving. The 2008-2010 Journey had 3500lb towing. The 2011-2021 has 2500lbs towing, despite being the exact same Car/Architecture*/frame. Pre 2010: DOT tow rating measurements were very sketchy. Manufactures would take their least equipped, but highest tow rated trim, put a 80lb test driver, new pads, brakes, no luggage, minimal fuel, and would conduct their towing tests to get the ratings. This is why before 2010, every car/sedan/prius/honda fit has a rated tow weight. POST 2010: DOT requires real world testing: Now all ratings are done with 2 humans (200lbs each) and 100 lbs of luggage in the trunk, full tank of fuel. The criteria for handling and stopping distance changed too. For whatever reason, the Grand Caravan survived these new tests, and retained it's rating. The summary is that the Dodge Journey failed to meet the requirements, and the cost to make the dodge compliant isn't worth it to FCA. Instead; Just reduce the rated towing in the manual and call it a day. Saves money and headache. The reality is: You /CAN/ tow much more with the Journey. People do it all the time and say it's fine. Just get a torsion hitch, brake controller, and don't drive like an idiot.

i've never encountered a Blue version of the screen of a Dodge journey- This leads me to believe that the screen is from a Chrysler 200 or Chrysler 300, and NOT from Dodge Journey originally. Maybe it was somehow re-programmed to look like the red Dodge version, but after a hard reset it reverted to it's original colors. My guess is that the radio was installed after the car what manufactured, (possibly as an upgrade from 4.3 Uconnect to 8.4 Uconnect. This upgrade is not easy when you're going from one Dodge Journey to another, yet alone from a Chrysler to a dodge. I suspect there is some incompatibility between the head unit, and the dodge's BT module. Could be bad module, needing to be replaced bad wiring (whoever installed the Chrysler 8.4" Display didn't install all the wires correctly burned out / removed BT module fuse (found in the fuse box located behind the glove box) incompatibility between the Chrysler head, (2011+ Chrysler 300 unit, or 2015+ chrysler 200 head unit) and the Dodge Journey BT Module (which is possibly the original from the DJ

Welcome to the forum. Please correct me if I'm wrong- The Freemont comes in two options, the 2.4 and the diesel? I also know it comes in a manual transmission optioned, (which is like the holy grail for the niche community that likes the journey and wishes it was more fun to drive...) Anyway, welcome to the cult :D

welcome to the forum. Although we all drive the Journey, It's no secret the Dodge Journey isn't the world's coolest car. It does get a much worse wrap than it deserves. All in all, it's a totally average crossover SUV that doesn't excel or fail in any category in particular. What some people don't understand is it's OK for a car to be average and underwhelming- as as you've already learned, having the reputation of being "bland" and "mediocore" means one thing: a inexpensive crossover! you'll be challenged to find a similar car for comfort, reliability and style at this price point and mileage that isn't just a total poop-box. anyway, the biggest shortcoming of this car is the 4cyl engine, and it's 4-speed auto. If you have the 3.L v6 you're all good. 280hp is a fairly big number for crossover, especially compared to the modern turbo engines in most competitor cars. When you mean upgrades, you're thinking making it better a car? pretty much nothing to do but keep it running with basic maintainance. Some pseudo upgrades like cold air intakes are possible, but anyone with a set of eyes will see the stock airbox pulls hold air in anyway. If you want to, check of other FCA products too, as many methodology are shared between the journey and Charger and Challenger. assuming only talking about the same engine. I added a trailer hitch and wiring harness to mine. The Journey isn't rated to tow much, but it's been the best modification (if not only) I've done.

wow that's a heck of a article.

Nice short article. not really polarizing, it's just history from 100+ years ago. It was no secret that Ford providing a better quality of living for the employees and that he didn't like Union intervention. At the time, Unions were beginning to form in every industry, for better or worse. Most industries, it was needed- Although, I can see why Ford would have been so adamant against it- and kicked off the love-hate (mostly hate) relationship between Unions and the Big 3 even till this day. The Henry Ford Museum in Dearborn is great. I went on the Rouge River Assembly tour 2 years ago. Really neat to see the modern assembly line in full speed ( if you're into that sort of thing.)

I had three batts go in 18 months, with the first about 5k miles between them. The first was probably age (it was 8 years old), the second was because the Walmart replacement took a shit in 6 months. 12 months (and only 5k miles); The third was because My Alternator died and the battery gave it's life getting me home.

This is TMI, But i'm doing this with every Toilet in my building. there's a toilet in every stall, and about 3 stalls per restroom about 20 restrooms in my building.

is your phone connected to BT when this happens? you might be receiving a text message. Record a video with audio of this happening and post it to YouTube then link the video here.

This is normal (in my 2011) I believe the car is cycling the vents closed to prevent moisture intrusion. Why it does it in phases is beyond me. I've spent the night in the car a few times and it'll do it with no prompt. It's only abnormal if it 1) make noises that are worse than normal: 'normal: electronic servo noises' (Bad: clank clank grinding gear noises or similar) 2) keeps going for more than 30 seconds: Normal: 15 -30 seconds of noises, then silence. (Bad: aimlessly cycle over and over and over for 2-3 minutes) 3) during normal engine-on operation you cannot get the different vent modes (defog, floor, face, recirc, or heat / cool to operate in all three zones. this means the blend/bleeder mechanisms have failed, and need replacement.

And one more thing, there seems to be more information on this on the Challenger/charger forums. you might find some info on the Durango forums too. Although this thread goes nowhere, allegedly someone got it to work. Maybe the Charger and dodger are similar and this process will work? https://www.chargerforumz.com/threads/install-uconnect-from-2017-into-2015.182586/page-2 Personally, This is a rabbit hole I'd not go down.

What features of Apple Car-Play do you require that 6.4 w/o navi doesn't already have? The dumb moment: Let me just get this out there: Why not get a good phone mount and get a Tablet or use your phone to supplement the existing 4.2 or 8.4 display. This will cost near zero if you already own the phone mount and phone, and will provide greater function that Android Auto as you can use your phone in its entirety without the gimmicky safety limitations of Android Auto not letting you text and stuff... I mean, will android auto let you watch netflix while you drive? Probably not (as its a stupid and dangerous idea) but a phone in a phone mount can! I don't know if android still has this feature, but my old HTC Evo had a car mode which gave only 6 icons. (kind of a precursor to Android auto) I know that's not the point of you asking, hearing someone tell you the obvious. So- Let's dive right into what you want to hear! --------- What I suggest investigating is to somehow splice into the reverse camera wiring and run an aftermarket Android Auto module. there would be no touchscreen compatibility from the 8.4, but you could do screen mirroring, and splice in your audio from the aux jack using a 3.5mm y-splitter. I think, (and this is pure speculation) that all you'd need to do to spoof this is have a dedicated switch on the side of the console, when flipped on it would sent 12v to the reverse signal wire (which triggers the screen to change over the reverse camera composite video input. As there is no power to the reverse camera, there would be no video signal. (if the signal wire goes generate a video signal from the rear camera, then use the same (or separate switch) to toggle a composite switch box- So- when this switch is toggled, have the aftermarket Android Auto unit send video signal through the reverse camera signal wires, either through y-splice or via the aforementioned composite switching box. This is based on some research i did when I wanted to add 4.2 navigation+rearview upgrades which would toggle on-off in a funny annolog fashion whenever the 'screen off button' was pressed. I understood they were basically switching a single push button with a 4-way cycle switch which cycled between 1. screen normal 2. screen off (it just streamed a video of a black image) 3. Video feed from Garmin's screen 4. video feed from reverse camera. If there exists an android auto auto autoauto module that just sends out video signal, then you'd be able to somehow send it through the reverse camera line. You might get 'check surroundings for saftey' overlay but- hey. almost there! ____ Lastly, I just wanted to mention that on the Chevy VOLT (my other car) there was a crazy guy who went all in on upgrading the touchscreen to android auto. It ended up using a raspberry-pi and way too much programming to get the touch screen to work mostly seamlessly. Good luck on your pursuit.

I tow a 6ftx6ft camper. usually at 750 lbs. I use the Reese Hitch 2" drop from Walmart, but I've inverted the ball to raise it up to level. The DJ receiver is really low in comparison to most SUVs (even compared to it's crossover jeep counterparts), so, either level, or a little raise might be good. PS - the 3.6 tows wonders.

I hope you find the issue! seems like you might be on the verge of being the first to diagnose and fix this issue ( or at least, document it!) Good luck with the swaps

This is going to sounds extra dumb.... but: if you do nothing at all, will the screens' backlight turn off after a few minutes? I know that my 2011 dodge will randomly 'turn on the screen backlights' and adjust the vent positions even when it's been off for a few minutes completely quiet and dark. This happens, then the screens illuminate while the computer is busy mucking around with the vents, then turns off after 40 seconds. This 'screen on' mode happens in a number of normal conditions, but each time will turn off after 1 or two minutes. sometimes longer. If you walk past the car and don't touch it (with the key in your pocket) - The screen backlights will illuminate as the computer turns on, expecting the door to be opened open. nothing will display, but the backlight illuminates. If the car is locked, (and you DONT have the key) and you try to unlock the door, pull the handle, push the little button on the handle, or push the lock button on the truck: the car's screens backlight will illuminate (the computer will turns on) because i knows someone is pressing the button; it turns on and tries to sense the key.

sounds like an electrical gremlin. Do the oldest trick in the FCA book and give it the 40 minute negative terminal yank. see if a total computer restart fixes your trouble. Try keeping a good batt tender on the car. does a healthy charge on the battery when you turn the car off resolve the issue? if true, then you're in for a new battery. maybe the battery is starting to go, and the computer is loosing it's marbles, and thinking the ignition is on. are you keeping the key fob a proper distance from the car? it might be sensing them, and priming it's computer systems

Found an image on Edmunds of your all beige leather interior. link: https://www.edmunds.com/dodge/journey/2009/pictures/ Looks like OEM. (the built in child-seat is also creme colored) Seems this is offered as factory option on top-tier interiors, not the SXT. The difference in color between 'leather' and 'fabric' is almost indistinguishable in photos. when you zoom in on the seat bolsters you can see the difference.

The switch is exclusively for the rear windows. I'm 99.9% certain it cannot be changed. Just like my other post of yours, if you're able to accept a 'band-aid' fix, just put some duct-tape over the switch. hahahah --- THE FOLOWING IS ME RAMBLING ABOUT SOMETHING I DON'T RECOMEND AND MIGHT NOT BE POSSIBLE!!! --- If you need to prevent the window on the passenger side from working, (disabling the switch on the door, but allowing the window to function normally from the driver's side): Theoretically, you could do this by removing a few wires from the wiring harness leading into the passenger's side switch assembly. I suppose you'd need to firstly get a wire color code diagram for that wire harness to identify which wires are the 'window switch signal wires', so as to NOT disconnect the lock, unlock, illumination, and permanent window wires.... Anyway, I guess you'll need to remove 4 wires from the harness (and insulate them from shorting on anything else): 1) power window switch UP 2) power window switch DOWN 3) power window switch UP-AUTO 4) power window switch DOWN-AUTO and NOT remove any of the other wires, so as to keep operation of the lock, and illumination of the (now functionless) switches, and retain operation of the passenger window from the driver's side. I recommend you test the function of the driver's side switch to assure it still works before re-assembling everything... and don't cut any wires, or do anything permanent just incase you make a mistake, or I made a mistake in my theory. make sure you have some way to remember the wire colors when you put them back into the harness so you can set it back to normal when you sell the car. you could take this to another level, and add a 5 individual relays which you'd slice 4 into the aforementioned wires, and 1 to power all four relays (which would be spliced into the driver's side window lock switch, allowing all windows to be locked simultaneously. (Don't do this, it probably wont work, and will likely ruin the car.)

It's annoying me just thinking about that noise- and the only time I need to deal with it is when I'm vacuuming the car- Do you know if there is a door switch on the door jam that can be forced into the closed position (either with tape, or other more robust method)? I suppose what I'm suggesting is literally to throw a band-aid on the problem; but if the car thinks the door is closed 100% of the time you're only giving up a few quality of life things- such as having the interior lights turn on when you open the door, or the radio turn off when you open the door on exit. (the radio will still turn off after a few minutes even if you disable to door - open switch) As far as turning the 'door ajar/ ignition-on bell' off... I don't know if its possible to 'program it away'- If it's not in the manual, then it's not possible.

Fixed. :D Replaced the belt, cleared the pulleys with Brakleen. back to silent operation. next: to fix the weak weak weak brakes. (probably a tiny bubble of air in the lines.)

Thanks everyone for replying. today is a warm day, and i'll be removing the belt and replacing it with a new one after cleaning every pulley with brakleen brake-cleaner and a toothbrush. I'm 90% sure it's Glycol permeated on the belt+pulleys causing the squeek. The car didn't make any noise prior to the alternator change- only afterwards. none of the other pulleys grind or rattle. The AC unit engages and disengages without a noticeable difference in squeek (it can be seen clicking on and off in the video. Quite neat to see, if you're willing to mute the gawd-awful noise my car makes! haha. Anyway: Seeing as coolant spilled from the hoses when removing the alternator, it's the most likely cause (and probably what I should have checked first ) I'll make the swap and report back. Thanks for going on this wacky Journey with me (pun intended, without shame!)

So after replacing the upper idler and the pulley on the tensioner but not the tensioner it's self, the noise remains. Here's a link to you tube of the belts spinning away while the car idles. From both the video, and just looking at the belt with my eyes I see no lateral wobble. when I spray WD40 on the belt the noise goes away for about 10 minutes then it returns. Once the engine is warm, the noise goes away at idle but any revving above idle makes the squeak return. There seems to be a subtle difference when the A/C (?) compressor engages... but I'm thinking that's not the cause. I'm thinking its worth it to just buy another new belt, maybe the el-cheapo I got is what's causing the noise. I'll check out the Gate Micro V, or just other well ranked belts.

2011, 3.6L v6 Currently I'm going through the process of swapping parts in order to stop a squeaking issue my my new belt/alternator. 6 months ago, everything was quiet, but My alternator needed replacement. It was easy enough. After the alternator was replaced (and a new belt installed) There has been a continuous 'chirp chirp chirp' squeaking noise coming from the belt. Before swapping the alternator, there was NO squeak. Anyway, hindsight is 2020. I would have went about this in a different order, but here I am. I removed, then replaced the pulley on the tensioner. (not the whole tensioner, just the pulley) and reinstalled it. The chirping is still really loud. I'm now replacing the Idler pulley at the top of the engine. Questions 1) I've removed the Idler from up top (the one that required removing engine mount, and lifting the engine. I'm in the process of buying a new on. I'm pretty sure there is no need to replace these parts, but I'm committed now. There is a little metal plate with teeth on the back side. Is there a replacement part # for this thing? it's the type of part I'm pretty sure is critical for the pulley, and FCA doesn't make spares. mine isn't broken, but it got bent during removal. Question 2) Assuming that replacing the two pulleys has nothing to solve my issue, I'm pretty sure the aftermarket Alternator is not aligned and is causing the belt noise. Is there any way to adjust the alternator position to align it with the other pulleys? If I cant solve this, does anyone know if there are any Goodyear Gator-back quiet belts that I can swap in the make it quiet?