NavalLacrosse

That's a toughy - As much as I like the Dodge journey, It's not the worlds most reliable car. - That being said; What it is, is probably the best value proposition car: You'll be hard pressed to find as large, comfy, *reliable, and *capable car for the price, even with the used car run-up post covid. *Reliable: It's not perfect, but for 1/2 the price of a RAV4, you'll get a car that's 85% as reliable. *Capable: It's very roomy, but only can tow 2500lbs. If you don't tow, this won't be an issue A few recommendations; seeing as pretty much nothing has changed at all on the dodge journey in 10 years, get one that its 4+ years old. This will make it much less expensive than CPO's from LaFontaine. That's one of the best things about the dodge journey, as it's had such a long run you can pay as much or as little as you want on a used one. 1) Get the v6. for the love of all things good in this world; do not get the 4cyl. the v6 pentastar is more powerful, and reliable, and only sacrifices 1mpg for a 100hp gain over the 2.4 multi-air (and it's embarrassing 4sp auto trans) 2) don't fret about awd vs fwd. both are fine, but fwd will give you less problems, but if you frequently get in heavy snow areas, go for awd. I've got a 2011 Front-wheel-drive with 98k miles-ish on it now. bought it with 32k miles on it for $13,500 in 2017 v6 is a trooper. Still hauls ass on the freeway. Brake pads and rotors every 30k miles. (an issue resolved after 2012) needed new alternator last year. needed new fog light bulbs last year too. The battery needs to be replaced every 5ish years. Had the rear brake caliper bracket seize, but this is my fault for not greasing it. I change the oil with Fram filters, and Quaker State full synth every 7,000 miles. Does not burn/consume oil. TLDR: I'd recommend this car to anyone looking for a large CUV with low cost of entry, and fairly low/common maintenance issues. Save a few thousand just to prepare for mechanical issues, but odds are you'll not need to spend it.

If you have the 7 seater you'll get a 'small cubby' in the rear that runs along the lip of the load floor. good fro jumpers, tow straps, ect. The 5 seater has a larger big that is under the load floor, where the third row belongs.

FCA uses empirical method to determine when to tell the owner to change the oil. This differs from Toyota and GM which test the oil to give oil life. the computer collects the averages of: Mileage driven, engine hours, manifold(oil)pressure. Then runs them through a very simple/dumb equation to determine how much sooner from the 7,000 mile interval the oil can go. for example(s) if these conditions happen averaged out over months of driving: low miles, lots of engine hours, low manifold pressures = lots of idling, (so change the oil sooner) low miles, low engine hours, high manifold pressures = lots of idling, and fast accelerations (change oil sooner) high miles, lower engine hours, normal manifold pressures = highway driving (change oil sooner) normal miles. normal engine hours, normal manifold pressure = normal driving (give full oil life) normal mile, normal engine hours, HIGH manifold pressure = towing/mountain driving = (change oil much sooner)

After 5 nearly trouble free years, and 90k miles of gas guzzling fun, my wife has requested a replacement for our family workhorse. Currently, I've got a Chevy Volt as my commuter. I'm looking to replace the journey (which is my wife's primary car) with a decent replacement. My current replacement options (which i've been limiting down) are: 2017+ Chevy Volt 52 miles EV range, my wife will be able to drive 90% on electricity- which solves the #1 problem with the dodge; cost of fuel. Plus, as a GM employee I will be rooting for the home team. 2016+ Jeep Cherokee (Trailhawk, or nothing! haha) forget about saving gas, it's time for fun! we test drove a v6 trailhawk; wow FCA makes some seriously alluring machines. comfortable seats that are better than the journey, can tow 4500 lbs, and i can finally drive my car to the mall and back knowing that if i needed to, i could totally rock crawl that embankment over there. 2016+ Subaru CrossTrek Efficiency, ride height, cool colors; What else is there to have?! problem is that subaru is hard to find in metro detroit, so the prices are a tad inflated. 201x+ Toyota Rav4 Hybrid awd It's the car 'my responsible dad' would buy; reliable, safe, economical, powerful, fast, can tow, awd, high resale value. ANY SUGGESTIONZ?

Yes, agreed with Summer Solstice; sounds like a Bearing issue. if it wasn't for the ABS light, I'd normally say the rotor got chipped, or the brake pad is dragging, but the ABS light means the sensor is involved, and that means the Bearing is needing replacement. Im thinking the Wheel Bearing Assembly includes the Sensor and wiring needed. if you swap one, you swap both at the same time. seems to be $100 for the pair online. Probably closer to 200 in store. i'd recommend getting medium-to-good brand, and not the Chinese knock-off, if you can. The TMPS light is on? Check the Pressure levels in the Gauge screen to see if it's coincidence that one of the tirEs just is low on air. The Center display will display the warning with priority first, so when you turn the car on it might just skip the tirE pressure and go directly to the ABS braking system message without telling you the tire pressures.

welcome to the cult. Please, help yourself to the complimentary Kool-aid <3

so if the car engine runs, sounds like you need: 1) replace the battery - you said it was leaking, so it means it's probably low health. The dodge journey dislikes any battery that is less than %99 perfect condition, and will have issues if the battery is weak.) 2) assure the negative cable is tight on both ends. there was acid water splashed all around the battery compartment. who's to say some didn't corrode the cables, reducing the voltage. 3) make sure the battery thermal circuit isn't damaged (if the car can start itself, this part isn't damaged) 4) test alternator health (coincidence, but a failing alternator might be causing some of the issues) 5) make sure the mirror is replaced, and there is no short in there. maybe a pinched wire is sending the error to the BCM (doubtful) PS, let your insurance company know what happened, and they'll sue his insurance on your behalf, and they'll sue for repairing the damage to the electrical system most likely will result in a dealership quote that might make them total the car. If you don't have insurance, take him to small claims and sue him directly for damages. (hopefully in the chaos, you or your wife was able to take photos of both cars and their orientations.)

I think the physical swap would be possible. I think the issues comes in once you try and integrating electronics. The center gauge screen probably wont work, as it needs to talk to a ECM from the 3.6L/2.4L: I4. The radio will probably fight you tooth and nail, as they have anti-theif. additionally the radio cluster will need to talk to the BCM and ECM to control exterior lights, interior cabin temp, and other features. The HVAC in 2011 is totally digital. I don't think the 10 is going to like to communicate with the 11's dashboard. Here's a better idea. The 2011's are cheap (so is nearly all the better FCA journeys, too). Just get yourself a Newer 2013 with 90k-100k miles, and sell the 2010 for like 4k. not only will you have the improved interior that actually functions as designed, but nearly everything else will be better- better engine, better seats, better tail-lights, better wheels. despite the used car market cost spike, there are high mile (100k mile) V6 journey's are found for under $7k

For the last 30k miles, the brakes on my dodge have been... less than desirable. ABS worked, all the wheels seemed to do their thing to stop the car, but the pedal felt weak, and spongy. I thought that I had either 1) air in the lines, 2) failing caliper, 3) bad master cyl 4) bad booster.... turns out it was just 1 seized slide pin on the driver's side. So, this last week the rear brakes start grinding metal on metal, as 2011-2012 model year brakes are known for eating pads and rotors every 30k miles. (which has been true for me so far). I get the 'elite' rotors+pads from Autozone, and go to town: Turns out: My caliper slide pin on the Driver's side had totally seized up! The outboard pad had 75% remaining, and was worn out off-kilter. The inside pad was totally gone, and was just the backer plate. "what da fuk!?!? I greased those pins every time!" I thought to myself, as I explained to my wife why a 'two hour' brake job is turning into me missing dinner... Anyway, I ended up replacing the brackets on both sides, threw it back together, and wow what a difference having functioning brakes make! 4 hours + 17 mosquito bites later: $204 for pads+rotors $130 for 2 brackets, 4 pins, 4 boots, and a baggie of grease The brakes are back! my goodness <3 it feels good to be able to stop like a normal car!

Joke: Embrace the dodge part of owning a dodge product; let those shocks go, and enjoy the pillowy smooth ride and exaggerated bodyroll. serious: Aftermarket? yes I'd go that route. Anything, as long as it's not some no-name china knockoff. just google the manufacture for reviews. I'd not get Mopar, as honestly my option is the car is simply not worth the inflated costs. Of course, my opinion of the Journey may be different from yours. Detroit Axle is good, literally their HQ is down the road from where I work. There's a reason they're located in detroit- because they supply parts to the OEMS here. Moog (Federal Mogul) is good too. Their HQ is in metro detroit too. Same story as before, they keep their HQ in detroit, because they have tight relations with the big-three. Their HQ is closest to FCA's global HQ so i'm assuming they are pretty tight. They might be cheaper to source than Detroit Axle, as they have manufacturing in Poland (I used to sell industrial equipment to them). Sensen, I'm not familiar with them. reddit seems pretty love-to-hate, so I'd avoid it for life-sensitive components, (like struts, rotors, or brake parts) their HQ is in China, and so is much of their global manufacturing.

I second you opinion. I've had nothing but good experience with discount. When I was desperate, in high school, they sold me a used Michelin tire for 45 dollars. (with "1/2 tread life" left) that tire lasted the last 40k miles of the cars life. When a tire wears out early, they prorate the value of the new tire based on remaining warranty on the old one. They repair a wider area of the tire for nail punctures (belle said "It's 2inches off center, it's a sidewall issue", discount just fixed it because it was obviously in the center.) Discount also accepts my tom-foolery of not signing for the tire warranty, but then when i have a tire blowout, they let me buy the warranty even though the car is clearly riding on the spare. I also got a memorial day sale with them and got 4 general tire alti-max for 80 each.

holy-crap that lifted journey is beyond words. Thanks for sharing. I've got to say I'm 100% impressed. I would think people would see a sxt trim DJ and just be like "eh, it's a good car, but not worth custom fabricated door panels with dual 12" speakers in EVERY DOOR".... But here we go; The effort alone is impressive. RIP rear windshield wiper. That poor fella will probably fall off when the beat REAALY drops.

Re: Canada Sales- They sell at a greater per-capita rate as the Americans every year from 2008-2017. Probably has a little do due with them being build in Canada for a while. In the first few years, the Canadians out-paced the Americans 2:1 on per-capita purchases. long-story-short, the Dodge Journey is VERY popular in Canada, much more so than the US- you'd see about 50% more of them on the road, when driving through any Canadian city. Re: global Markets: In Brazil, Fiat Freemont is considered a great car, but it's only offered in the 4cyl and rarely turbo-diesel. They sell them with the 3.6L v6 under the Dodge brand, it's marketed as a higher-end SUV, considering you'd need to have a pretty good job to afford an imported car, and feed is the equivalent of $6usd/gallon of regular gasoline in an environment where there is two types of driving: City and Mountain freeways.

3.6 hands down. 3.6: You're gaining nearly 100 horsepower and only losing 2 mpg combined. 3.6hp=280hp You're gaining a 6sp Automatic Transmission, This means smoother drive. Engine sounds quieter, and roars rather than whines. on the highway in top gear it runs at a calm 1500 rpm at 75 mph. Passing on the highway? pedal to the floor and after an admittedly longggg time for the car to pick a gear- it will rocket. 2.4: abysmal acceleration on the highways. not enough efficiency gained to warrant the loss of power. 4sp automatic transmission: The embarrassment of all automobiles sold, that this is the only one holding onto a relic of technology from 2 decades ago. (this is probably the reason the engine isn't more efficient.) on the freeway, it's time to pass: you'll miss those extra 100hp when your engine screams in redline and accelerates at a normal rate.

So, I looked at a video, and there is more to the conversions than I thought; the trick is finding out what was added for the ramp, and what was added to raise the car. On older caravans it looks like they install some kind of steel frame which provides the cradle for the underslung ramp mechanisms. In the rear of the vehicle, the axle, springs, and shocks bolt onto this intermediate frame, and the frame bolts to the body. ( keep in mind the Caravan had a rigid rear axle, and is not Independent like the Journey.) The front is a real mystery. It looks more like a spacer at the top of the shock tower, and then nothing more. Perhaps seeing toyota or Honda conversions will give a better idea of how to go about lifting a minivan with rear multi-link suspension.

find out what the Wheelchair accessible Dodge Grand Caravan conversions use, then use that. Granted, these conversion companies do this day-in-and-day-out, and probably keep their methods secret.. But my guess is they're doing it in as cheap a way as possible to keep up profit margins. (probably in-house machined steel 2" spacers at the top of the shock tower, and extra long bolts. These conversions are fairly common on the fwd Grand Caravans. If you find one in a parking lot, ask the driver if you can look under their car at the suspension to see how it's lifted... or just wait till they're in the store

There is a Supercharger mod for the PentaStar 3.6 on the charger/challenger which costs 6-8K after install and tune... It probably won't fit in the Journey's engine bay, and routing the pulleys would be impossible given how small the space there is to work with on the Pass-side of the engine. It'd also certainly cause issues in the existing drivetrain. You don't see them often in the wild as the v8 engine costs the same as the v6 supercharger upgrade, and the v6 upgrade certainly will cause more problems than it's worth.

Congrats on the kid's new job. It's only a matter of time before he trades in the DJ for a more trendy or hip automobile. It's funny you describe your son's opinion on gasoline cost. I was the same way. glad he likes the car now that gasoline price anxiety is out of the way.

Please make a youtube channel where you just do crazy mechanics stuff. It might pay for itself (or offset some costs) with ad revenue. Sounds fun, and don't let the debbie-downers like myself talk to you out of it. Outside of the obvious difficult things, like making a new transmission tunnels ( solved with lots of cutting and creative liberties while welding it back together...)... the DJ Pentastar is Transversely mounted, and the Engine bay isn't very deep. I know it's deeper than some minivans, but I'd be curious how the 5.7 would fit seeing as from the outside it appears the DJ's engine bay is about 6" shorter than the Charger. BUT these are the issues which cause no one to take on such a challenge. BE creative and prove me wrong.. Can't wait to see progress!

@Chiliquiles: Re: Inverted reverse camera Create a new forum post on this topic, not as a comment on another unrelated posting. Doing this will ensure you get responses to your questions. that being said, have you Tried rotating the camera? whoever installed it last might have put in in up-side down. I don't think there is a software fix- so just open the area the camera is above the license plate, and 'flip it' right side up. then reinstall the whole thing.

I'll preface my response with a note: This is just one of many possible abstract reasons which might relates to climate control acting weird- So don't panic reading this, and try solving it from simpler causes first, before diving in: electrical gremlins may be caused by low voltage in the battery (due to either a failing battery or a failing alternator). If this climate control issue persists, try disconnecting the negative terminal in the engine bay for 40 minutes (which will cause you to lose presets). when you plug back in, see if this fixes the issue. If the issue goes away for a while then comes back , I'd think it has to do with the battery. Other examples of the battery getting weak: if the battery is getting old, or alternator not providing perfect power other systems will start 'acting funny' for example, the volume knob will not work, or the radio stack will reset randomly. sometime errors on the dashboard like 'low battery in key fob' which are intermittent, and inconsistent are a tell tale sign of this weak battery.

My 2011 will not shift into 6th gear until 45mph (72mph, exactly), So this appears to be the normal minimum speed for OD. I don't know why your model is waiting till 90kph. I agree it's mildly annoying, because right at 45mph the efficiency increases because of the OD; at 44 mph, the instant mpg rating is noticeably lower. at 45mph, its greatly improved.

I think it looks good. I'm so paranoid of the car sinking into the sand, I'd not take it off road like this - but looks like you've got the AWD!

I could be (and probably am) completely wrong with what I paid 2 years ago. (maybe i'm mentally blocking out the cost of the tire) I just remember getting them on a sale (memorial day tire sale) and I also got a $75 dollar visa card on a manufacturer rebate. The tires were 'General Tire' altimax which are currently listed at 178/each. I think it was: Memorial Day sale: $100 dollars off, (for 4 new tires) $75 dollars off, (of rating better) Mfg Sale/rebate. $75 dollar Manufacturer rebate ? Some mfg instant savings of about $75? This would put it the ballpark of 89 dollars a tire. TR;DR; I really got a good deal on tires in 2018 wow.

Good luck on the repair! This is making me happy i've got the "inferior" FWD v6. Good luck with the diagnostic and eventual repair.