What Did You do to your Journey Today

[jkeaton]

On 12/5/2025 at 12:18 PM, erbie78 said:

Changed the 6 yr old battery in the kiddo's '12.  That was fun.  I don't remember it being as hard to change the one in my 03 Concorde that was in the passenger wheel well.

Turn the wheel hard right, remove the access panel, replace the battery. Not hard. 

[khnitz]

After re-seating the EGR tube, the P0401 DTC is gone 😊  I updated and closed out the thread here.

 

In the ~400miles of driving I've done since replacing the TCC solenoid, I went into limp mode once, and read DTC P0765 UD SOLENOID CIRCUIT.  After power-cycling the car (including insuring the CAN bus went to sleep), the transmission functioned normally for the rest of that drive and it hasn't happened since.  Just for more detail on what it felt like when the transmission went into limp mode: I had stopped for a light and while I was waiting at the light (maybe a second or so after stopping) the transmission shifted hard and was then in the limp mode.  I used whether I could see the current gear in the tip-shift mode, which I couldn't at that point, to determine that the car had gone into limp mode.  Different from before, this was no longer the P2764 TORQUE CONVERTER CLUTCH PRESSURE CONTROL CIRCUIT LOW error (which is what led me to change the TCC solenoid).

One of the common suggestions I found for P0765 was to check if the transmission fluid level was low.  I did check it over the weekend.  With my Foxwell NT510 monitoring the transmission fluid temperature, I used the appropriate measuring dipstick and found that I was about 3/4 of a quart low.  I added fluid up to the correct fill level for the transmission temperature and will now be driving the Journey again some more this week to see if the issue re-appears.

 

The combination of low fluid level and really low temperatures here lately lead me to hope that just topping off the fluid will be the fix for this one occurrence 🙏

Edited December 8, 2025 by khnitz

[khnitz]

Tonight I replaced the thermostat.  We'll see if that helps with interior heating in this cold weather.  This video was helpful, and he replied to a question I had on his solution.  He also suggested to make sure that the radiator fan resistor wasn't bad (where the fan would be running all the time).  On our Journey, that is not the case...the radiator fan does not run all the time.

[khnitz]

45 minutes ago, khnitz said:

Tonight I replaced the thermostat.  We'll see if that helps with interior heating in this cold weather.  This video was helpful, and he replied to a question I had on his solution.  He also suggested to make sure that the radiator fan resistor wasn't bad (where the fan would be running all the time).  On our Journey, that is not the case...the radiator fan does not run all the time.

Now I have heat on the driver's side, but not on the passenger side.  I'm doing some research and the first likely culprits are either a clogged heater core (but why does the driver's side get heat) or a bad blend door actuator for the passenger side.  I'm leaning towards it being the blend door.  Airflow out of both sides is good.

 

And, unfortunately, the car went into limp mode once at the start of my test drive after replacing the thermostat.  After a power cycle, it did not go into limp mode again on the rest of the ~5mile test drive (at speeds of 0 to 55mph).

Edited December 9, 2025 by khnitz

[2late4u]

easy to see just operate the blend door switches while you are watching them move  under the glove box.   2 on the passenger side and 1 on the drivers side as well....you tube has a lot of videos or on the journeys blend doors......... as for the heater core dodge used a 2 zone heater core one for the drivers side and one for the passenger door side ,so it can get heat for just one side while the other side is plugged up....P.S. if its a blend door motor only use OEM as it has been reported the aftermarket ones don't last very long

Edited December 9, 2025 by 2late4u

[5rebel9]

11 hours ago, khnitz said:

Now I have heat on the driver's side, but not on the passenger side.  I'm doing some research and the first likely culprits are either a clogged heater core (but why does the driver's side get heat) or a bad blend door actuator for the passenger side.  I'm leaning towards it being the blend door.  Airflow out of both sides is good.

 

And, unfortunately, the car went into limp mode once at the start of my test drive after replacing the thermostat.  After a power cycle, it did not go into limp mode again on the rest of the ~5mile test drive (at speeds of 0 to 55mph).

IF it is not a broken actuator on the pass. side, or air entrapment( the 3.5 was troublesome for bleeding air out), then YES the heater core. 

It is NOT the core itself that will give heat to drivers side and not the pass. side. It is due to the DESIGN of the the interior ducting of the HVAC box. The lower portion of the core supplies the heat for pass. side, and GUESS where sediments collect and plug up heater core passages. This is a common complaint with ALL older and neglected care DJ's....and there are many other brands and makes of vehicles that have the same complaint.

Cut and splice with 5/8" ID heater hose and screw clamps is the easiest way to replace the core, and easier on your first gen DJ that 2011 and newer due to lower dash changes for lower airbag  on drivers side.

Good luck, and get that heat working....it's WINTER now. We hit -7*f this morning!

Edited December 9, 2025 by 5rebel9

[khnitz]

1 minute ago, 5rebel9 said:

IF it id not a broken actuator on the pass. side, or air entrapment( the 3.5 was troublesome for bleeding air out), then YES the heater core. 

<snip>

Good luck, and get that heat working....it's WINTER now. We hit -7*f this morning!

Thank-you @5rebel9 for all the detail on the design of the heater core and HVAC!

 

I watched a couple of heater core replacement videos this morning - the cut, add hose and clamp repair method does look like the best path if it winds up being the heater core.

 

This morning I confirmed that the driver and passenger blend door actuators are functioning.  The flow direction actuator (feet, chest, defrost) is working, as well.

 

My next step this morning are to try and bleed the cooling system some more.  From what I read in other threads, I will pull the front end up on ramps to elevate it, and then run the engine with the cap off the coolant.  I also saw another suggestion to gently tap on the lower coolant line to the heater core while the engine is running to free up trapped air.

 

A question: does the 3.5L have two thermostats?  Besides the one on the side of the engine block above the transmission (which I changed last night), is there another at the right-front corner of the engine (behind the passenger headlamp/front grille area)?  At the point where this radiator hose enters the block behind/below the alternator?

 

And in other news, I discovered that this Journey has an iPod adapter!

 

Which is fortunate, because I still use a 3rd Gen iPod Touch for my podcasts and music 😁

 

Anyone know where that frame clip to locate those connectors is supposed to attach?

[5rebel9]

NOPE, the 3.5 has just ONE thermostat on the engine. Only the 2.4 uses TWO thermostats.

Lucky you to have found that connector and have it....that is pretty much a first gen DJ feature, all my DJ's have been 2011-2014, so I really can't tell you where it should attach.

[khnitz]

@5rebel9, it looks like my heater core was already replaced at some point.  The crimps at heater line flanges appear to be done in the "newer" style (from what I could tell by watching some core replacement videos, and in particular this one) and it has hoses and clamps on the lines up to the firewall.  Also, with the engine idling here for while and the interior temperature set on high for driver and passenger, both lines to the heater core are hot.  Using the thermometer I check my AC temps with, at the moment the driver's side is blowing at 96deg F, and the passenger side is blowing at 50deg F (and it's 48deg F in the garage).  I keep massaging the upper radiator hose now and again and tapping on the lower heater core line trying to work any trapped air through the system.

Edited December 9, 2025 by khnitz

[2late4u]

44 minutes ago, 5rebel9 said:

NOPE, the 3.5 has just ONE thermostat on the engine. Only the 2.4 uses TWO thermostats.

Lucky you to have found that connector and have it....that is pretty much a first gen DJ feature, all my DJ's have been 2011-2014, so I really can't tell you where it should attach.

I just seen where he has a 2009 and NOT a 2014 journey as he has it listed, my mistake on  telling him it had 2 thermostats....LOL

[khnitz]

@2late4u, my signature shows it as a 2009.  This is the one that I got from my step-son and his family when they were done with it.

 

I do also repair my in-law's 2014 from time to time, too.  Hence the opportunity for confusion 🙃

[5rebel9]

1 hour ago, khnitz said:

@5rebel9, it looks like my heater core was already replaced at some point.  The crimps at heater line flanges appear to be done in the "newer" style (from what I could tell by watching some core replacement videos, and in particular this one) and it has hoses and clamps on the lines up to the firewall.  Also, with the engine idling here for while and the interior temperature set on high for driver and passenger, both lines to the heater core are hot.  Using the thermometer I check my AC temps with, at the moment the driver's side is blowing at 96deg F, and the passenger side is blowing at 50deg F (and it's 48deg F in the garage).  I keep massaging the upper radiator hose now and again and tapping on the lower heater core line trying to work any trapped air through the system.

Upper tube is HOT IN, lower tube is RETURN . Lower tube is also  at very bottom of the core. BOTH tubes will get hot, and yet pass. side will not give heat of ample quality as there is a bit of a "tank" for each end(just like a radiator) .

I know, as on my son's 2011(3.6) I had to replace the core a second time 2 years after initially replacing the original, as more crap thru the engine/radiator/and rear heat plugged things up again. even after trying multiple water/air flushes to just the heater core thru the pipes at the firewall. So far heat is fine on his at second year now.

   You are then way ahead of the "game" for ease of the task since it has been replaced in that fashion already. BUT use new hose and clamps when you do it. you already have the "guide for cutting the new core's tubes and hose lengths.

Good Luck to you!

Edited December 9, 2025 by 5rebel9

[khnitz]

17 hours ago, khnitz said:

Tonight I replaced the thermostat.  We'll see if that helps with interior heating in this cold weather.  This video was helpful, and he replied to a question I had on his solution.  He also suggested to make sure that the radiator fan resistor wasn't bad (where the fan would be running all the time).  On our Journey, that is not the case...the radiator fan does not run all the time.

I stand corrected...

 

As I was letting the engine idle while I checked the transmission fluid level again, I had turned off the HVAC (both front and rear) to let the engine warm up as much as possible.  And, lo and behold, the radiator fan WAS running.  Son of a gun...  So, that is a next item - I've ordered a new radiator fan resistor and will install that once it shows up later this week.

 

Then, while the engine was idling for the above fluid level checking, I noticed some drops of ATF on the garage floor.  !@#@%@#$!

 

Turns out, the o-rings on the newly-installed Dorman 624645 transmission cooling lines were bad. I had traveled about 500miles since they were installed.  I'm glad I spotted the issue before an upcoming long drive this week.  Looks like they were too big (too large an outer diameter) for the application and tore as the lines were connected to the the transmission cooler.  This is why each is shown in 2pcs below: the thicker piece is what stayed in the groove on the line, and the thinner piece is what was cut/tore-off during installation. 

 

I used Viton o-rings as replacements.

 

Here is the evidence of the leak - the fluid wept out of the connection and onto the lines.

 

 

3 hours ago, 5rebel9 said:

Upper tube is HOT IN, lower tube is RETURN . Lower tube is also  at very bottom of the core. BOTH tubes will get hot, and yet pass. side will not give heat of ample quality as there is a bit of a "tank" for each end(just like a radiator) .

I know, as on my son's 2011(3.6) I had to replace the core a second time 2 years after initially replacing the original, as more crap thru the engine/radiator/and rear heat plugged things up again. even after trying multiple water/air flushes to just the heater core thru the pipes at the firewall. So far heat is fine on his at second year now.

   You are then way ahead of the "game" for ease of the task since it has been replaced in that fashion already. BUT use new hose and clamps when you do it. you already have the "guide for cutting the new core's tubes and hose lengths.

Good Luck to you!

@5rebel9, thanks, again for the addition detail!

Edited December 9, 2025 by khnitz

[5rebel9]

3 hours ago, khnitz said:

I stand corrected...

 

As I was letting the engine idle while I checked the transmission fluid level again, I had turned off the HVAC (both front and rear) to let the engine warm up as much as possible.  And, lo and behold, the radiator fan WAS running.  Son of a gun...  So, that is a next item - I've ordered a new radiator fan resistor and will install that once it shows up later this week.

 

Then, while the engine was idling for the above fluid level checking, I noticed some drops of ATF on the garage floor.  !@#@%@#$!

 

Turns out, the o-rings on the newly-installed Dorman 624645 transmission cooling lines were bad. I had traveled about 500miles since they were installed.  I'm glad I spotted the issue before an upcoming long drive this week.  Looks like they were too big (too large an outer diameter) for the application and tore as the lines were connected to the the transmission cooler.  This is why each is shown in 2pcs below: the thicker piece is what stayed in the groove on the line, and the thinner piece is what was cut/tore-off during installation. 

 

I used Viton o-rings as replacements.

 

Here is the evidence of the leak - the fluid wept out of the connection and onto the lines.

 

 

@5rebel9, thanks, again for the addition detail!

Well.....that would surely explain the fluid level being low as you posted previously! Always gotta be something happen!

  I'm sure you know for rad fan operation in NON A/C modes the fan is supposed to cycle from a certain high temp to a set shut off temp. A/C should run the fan continuously. 

YUP, I had to replace that resister (on the rad fan shroud) on my 4 banger because it would not turn on until "overtemp" was reached. Seems each engine has a slight temp range of operations from the others. My 4 banger runs fan at 208*f and shuts off around 200*f, the 3.6's come on about 216*f and off at 210*f. I can't tell you how your 3.5 should operate.

 

And YES I really did not like the first time changing that heater core from the original, but the "cut and splice" was a WHOLE LOT BETTER to do than by the book (dash removal). The second time was a LOT quicker and easier!

 

Hang in there returning your ride to full functionality!

[khnitz]

I completed the first 300miles of my with the Journey today.  The only code shown after all that is the stored DTC P0765 UD SOLENOID CIRCUIT error.  The Journey did not go into limp mode at all during the drive (including one stop for gas).

 

I have a new solenoid pack on order that should arrive before I get back home.  I'll install that this weekend, and hopefully that will put the 0765 DRTC to rest 🙏

[khnitz]

I completed the 600+ miles round trip late last night with the Journey.  There were 2 limp-mode incidents: I forgot about one that happened just as I was leaving, and then another early this morning.  It seemed that if I got to the highway and was cruising at speed, there would be no issues after that.

 

The new solenoid pack (I went with the MOPAR part) was waiting when I got home, and I'll get it installed this weekend.

 

All-in-all, the car did very well on the drive.  And actually, I thought the base audio sounded really good for what it is  

[5rebel9]

glad to hear you made the trip OK.

 Just wondering from your posts

Did you get the am/fm working

Did you get heat inside the pass. side

 

Also I don't remember your initial code for TCC solenoid, but mine was the P0760 and required the torque converter be replaced to fix the problem, my friend had tried both the solenoid and  solenoid pack to no "joy" before removing the trans.

There are a few youtube vids. out there that show and discuss this problem.

 

And please note  ALL my cars have come from used private deals that no known maint. history or even admitted current maint. needs. So when I get the car, I have to go thru them "with a fine tooth comb" so to speak. Some needs show up right away and other took some time and use to "show up".

 

[khnitz]

2 hours ago, 5rebel9 said:

glad to hear you made the trip OK.

 Just wondering from your posts

Did you get the am/fm working

Did you get heat inside the pass. side

 

Also I don't remember your initial code for TCC solenoid, but mine was the P0760 and required the torque converter be replaced to fix the problem, my friend had tried both the solenoid and  solenoid pack to no "joy" before removing the trans.

There are a few youtube vids. out there that show and discuss this problem.

 

And please note  ALL my cars have come from used private deals that no known maint. history or even admitted current maint. needs. So when I get the car, I have to go thru them "with a fine tooth comb" so to speak. Some needs show up right away and other took some time and use to "show up".

 

The AM/FM is still not working - except - for 100.7FM - that comes through loud and clear 🤔  I made use of the aux input and iPod connection to play my podcasts and music on the drive.

 

The heat is still AWOL on the passenger side.  What heat that is available on the driver's side kept the car above freezing.  Thankfully, the seat heaters work 😁  I think the next step would be to replace the heater core (again), but that will be for the next owner to decide to do - I will make them aware of it, though.  A question on the heater core, though: does coolant always pass through it by design, or is there a on/off valve somewhere?  When I was doing the power steering lines replacement, I noticed that the coolant hoses at the back of the engine seemed to be in a non-OEM configuration, but I didn't have a reference to compare against.

 

The code I got for the TCC solenoid was P2764.  That hasn't returned since replacing that solenoid.

 

I've put over 1100 miles on the Journey since finishing the suspension work, installing the new(er) tires and getting an alignment.  And, it's been over 800 miles with that new TCC solenoid.

 

Yeah, as you also do, I've been trying to shake out the car, getting any last issues to reveal themselves so I can address the most important ones before passing the Journey on to its next owner in South Carolina.

Edited December 12, 2025 by khnitz

[5rebel9]

Just poking a little fun back at you....

  With the extreme you went thru with the rear suspension, changing out the heater core in it's current state would be a "piece of cake"!

And the coolant flow is CONTINUOUS  FLOW thru the heater core.

 

Stay warm there and enjoy your "shop area & lift"  It's been brutal cold and snow here, seems all I've been doing is clearing off the cars and snow blowing the driveway!    

[khnitz]

I installed the new (rebuilt) shift solenoid pack today.  It's the actual current Mopar part and it was only about $200 at RockAuto. I did the manual relearn process initiation and took it for a test drive - it did well so far 🤞🙏

 

 

 

Another quirk of the car...  Even though the wipers are off, they will occasionally cycle.  And, it is not as steady as if set an an intermittent wiping interval.  The just randomly cycle.  Sometimes not for a while, and then other times 5-10s apart.  It's weird.  Ideas?

Edited December 14, 2025 by khnitz

[khnitz]

One more for today:

 

Any guesses on what this white stuff was inside the front transmission cover?  It wiped off easy enough, just seemed odd.

[5rebel9]

Nice work on the trans.

 I've seen questions about that "white stuff" in the trans pan, but never have seen it myself to deal with. And I have not heard of any cause for it.

IDEAS for the wiper "craziness"?

    I hate to bear "bad news" but for the year and being a Dodge product that uses the early TIPM electrical system also used in the Avenger and other models, it is most likely a bad circuit board inside the TIPM/fuse panel out under the hood. Should be plenty of Youtube videos discussing the problem and fix.

[5rebel9]

1 hour ago, 5rebel9 said:

Nice work on the trans.

 I've seen questions about that "white stuff" in the trans pan, but never have seen it myself to deal with. And I have not heard of any cause for it.

IDEAS for the wiper "craziness"?

    I hate to bear "bad news" but for the year and being a Dodge product that uses the early TIPM electrical system also used in the Avenger and other models, it is most likely a bad circuit board inside the TIPM/fuse panel out under the hood. Should be plenty of Youtube videos discussing the problem and fix.

Been thinking about that "white stuff in the trans cover......

It would not hurt to check the vent on the top of the trans. case for being "plugged up" or even missing it's cover. I know on AWD models the rear differential vent is prone to this happening.

 

Good Luck!

[khnitz]

5 minutes ago, 5rebel9 said:

Been thinking about that "white stuff in the trans cover......

It would not hurt to check the vent on the top of the trans. case for being "plugged up" or even missing it's cover. I know on AWD models the rear differential vent is prone to this happening.

 

Good Luck!

The transmission vent does have it's cover.  I'll have to check if it's plugged or not.

 

I'll look into the TIPM solutions, too.  Thanks for the direction 👍

 

Come to think of it, the intermittent wipers on my '05 Ram Cummins don't work correctly, either.  They don't randomly turn on when the switch is off, but they don't function normally, either.

Edited December 14, 2025 by khnitz

[John/Horace]

Great pics like usual khnitz, forums are built on that. Mopar can be very competitive on some parts. Warranty is interesting on solenoid assembly, Dorman is highest $ cost with life time, other guys 36 months, mopar is 24. Your selling anyway, not a consideration. Mopar online sites have decent discounts and can be good information sources. 

 

Automatic parking switch on wiper motor assembly failing can do weird crap. It has constant and switched power supplys. Another possibility, bi scanner might give some info trail.

 

Viton is great for higher heat, strong chemicals, more money than buna but worth using.

 

Edited December 15, 2025 by John/Horace