5rebel9

I agree with you BUT I am NO VIDEOGRAPHER to take and post things.....LOL

Well it is an actuator for the pass. side heat control, still functional but slow in matching output when in sync. mode. I went to my friend yesterday to pull one and he said he needed 3 also, if I would pull them I could have the fourth. Same actuators in the vans, and he has more of them and easier to access the actuators. I pulled 3 and was getting sore, so left the fourth (mine) for another day. Since I know what is going on now and is now my main ride since the wife took over the '17. my mind is more at ease about the situation. I'll rest up a bit and then pull the final one and change out the actuator on another day.

Code B11ca comes up as only fault. Took out glove box and watched movement of the pass. actuator. It moves freely, but in large movements with steady hold on control buttons hot or cold(not smooth and steady). NO clicking or sticking.@John/Horace this has the original heater core and NO under dash work has been done on it. MY understanding of the earlier models with ATC that only fan speed was affected by ATC, as desired temp is set by the operator (could I be wrong?).

Well, with the 5 DJ's I've had this is a new problem to encounter. Car has ATC but when TEMP is set to full high, I get full heat out any set position. When I lower the TEMP even one degree on the infotainment screen the temp goes to full cold even though the display shows desired TEMP setting. I suspect the HVAC module in the center stack behind the infotainment screen and when the sun comes up will hook up my alphaobd program and see if I can find the problem using that. In the meantime if anyone has suggestions, I'm open to read/try them.

The FINAL SAY GOODBYE TO "OLD RED"! The family came at noon today with the young man who will be driving "old red". When he finishes high school this June he is going into the MARINE CORPS, sadly to me as INFANTRY(a GRUNT) as I was an "airedale aviation jet engine MOS. So I came down a little to $750 and the deal is DONE, which ALL were VERY PLEASED. I will miss "old red" as I did form an emotional attachment to him from all the work I had put into him over the last 6 years. My friend will be doing the brake work for them, so he although not ending up with the car for parts, will make a little money instead...again ALL parties HAPPY! Old Red will leave my driveway for the final time mid week once paperwork is completed.

I know this is in the Owners impressions forum...BUT It is coming time to close the book on old red (2011 mainstreet). The last posting I made somewhere in one of my many postings of his "disposition" was to give him up to scrap, due to lack of time to find/fix coolant leak and overall body condition. THE GOOD NEWS The coolant loss was a ruptured oil filter /cooler assembly, which I did replace with an aluminium unit along with the aluminum T-stat and a new fan resistor. The engine is FINE with no damage from the limp home with it when it blew. Seeing as I had gone that far with it, I then looked over the damage from the initial problem of my son glancing a deer that tore the bumper cover off and broke some plastic wheel arch panels and side cover attachment brackets. I was able to acquire all needed pieces from my friend AND reuse the bumper cover. SO the car is all back together !!! THE SAD NEWS This car was our first DJ, and was a REAL LEARNING EXPERIENCE with all the troubles we overcame with it and had proven to be a reliable ride for my son. BUT now We are putting it up for sale at an almost "give away" price considering the cost of parts to fix the cooling system(which I did all the labor). It will need new pads and rotors all around due to sitting parked for almost 8 months and the WET year we had this year. I have one family coming Sat. to look at the car for their son as a first car for him( yes he is going to be here also). I hope it goes well!

Years ago people called that funky pedal by the drivers kick panel the EMERGENCY BRAKE. Sadly it became known as the PARKING BRAKE, so people forgot how and what use this pedal is for. EXACTLY the kind of thing your daughter encountered!

Don't know how many miles on such as newer ride or type of road conditions you drive on..... BUT . I would much more suspect ball joints or a failing power steering pump.

Welcome to the forum to you way down in South America area! IF this radio is the original to your car, the radio serial# and your cars' VIN # and proof of ownership info taken to a DODGE DEALERSHIP Parts Dept/or ServiceDept. can look that security code up for you. Unfortunately being now16 years old and the car being out of production for 6 years MAY present some info problems even at a dealership. GOOD LUCK!

Welcome to the forum! There are NO print shop manuals for the car, they are all "online" or "online subscription". BUT previous members HAVE POSTED complete manuals here on the forum if you look at the proper forum heading. That said, to replace the PTU is the SAME STEPS as to removing the transmission(a pretty big job). you may be able to find some youtube videos on that to help you along. GOOD LUCK!

Your DJ was certainly NOT a "plain Jane" ride and was (is) quite sharp with all you had done with it! BUT your "Caddy" is just as impressive and I'm sure that a Cadillac outshines a Dodge suv any day. Good luck with the 2 new(er) rides and HAPPY MOTORING ! Going to MISS you here all the same, at least your pic's and posts will always be here to look at!

I agree, and posted to the OP that they should check into the VVT solenoids(intake and exhaust) in his other topic relating to the brake codes. Due to the pictures of the HIGHLY SLUDGED cylinder head/valvetrain area of pictures he had posted about possible timing chain. At least pull them out and TRY cleaning them with spray carb cleaner or brake cleaner spray.

Welcome to the forum! ALL vehicles of the Dodge family with remote start incorporate this resisterwhich provides a small electrical signal to the various modules to tell which position the switch is in. for circuit /module protection and such. I would NOT attempt using anything other than the specific required resistor or more preferred hood safety switch which is also the same switch used in the Caravan/ Town&Country vans.

not just an issue of pads and rotors, but that caliper slide pins are "free" and not seized. And also that rear calipers are also in good "order". BTW.....WHAT was the cause/fix to the crank/no start/timing chain issue????? many folks gave their time and suggestions to try and assist you, it would be nice to find out what was going on.

Your BEST way to find the cause is to have a full system scan done(one that can read more than just basic OBDll engine codes). Good scanners can pull "history" codes even if the current warning lights are NOT displayed.

As long as the timing marks align properly, I would say that the chain and tensioner guides are OK. BUT from your pictures.... You have a highly SLUDGED motor. MY suspicion is plugged up VVT solenoids for intake and exhaust cams and possibly VVT filter screen which the screen requires the cylinder head to be removed to get to it. Time to do some serious Dodge 2.4 motor youtube searching.

I never had any luck with trying to do the old school of boiling the stat. And the routing of coolant flow sends flow thru the radiator only after the stat opens, so that if stat does NOT FULLY OPEN you have reduced flow thru the radiator and thus cooler temp reading there with a temp gun and high heat feel thru the heater core. Doorman or any part can fail even if NEW.

Just as the PLASTIC T-Stat cover and stat are known to stick open, they can also do the reverse and only PARTIALLY open. I had this happen last summer with our '13 rt, and got the same situation as you have. I spent the $$ for the Aluminum stat housing and stat...NO problem since.

Pull the plugs and COMPARE coloration pattern of the threaded end porcelains and electrodes to each of the others. This is an OLD SCHOOL way to check for an individual cylinder problem. PLugs are an EASY to do with the 4 cyl. motor.

Well, I watched your video numerous times AND rechecked your previous postings. What did you ever do about the cooling system trouble of past? How many miles on the car NOW and have you ever changed the Spark plugs? NOW too your video.... There is definitely NO BATTERY ISSUE here . The way the motor is spinning is suggesting to me that there are motor issues going on and WHY I posted about MILES on the car AND SPARK PLUGS. I agree about changing the crank sensor, as this sensor WILL prevent engine from running while cam sensors will .

Could you be a little more specific? Does the starter motor spin the engine but NOT have the ENGINE "fire up" OR does not even crank over the starter motor?

As a country , we've seen our share of trials and tribulations. BUT we've made it to 250 years young! Let us all remember and CELEBRATE our history and work together to make our country even BETTER as we look forward to the next milestones. May all our USA Journey members have a SAFE, ENJOYABLE HAPPY HOLIDAY !🎉

The way my family drives, all three of our journeys will break through the 200k mile barrier by mid autumn. Rear struts are NOT FUN to change, and I like the aluminium T-stat and the aluminium oil filter housing.... basically ONE TIME and DONE with few worries. But with 3 of these on the road....just don't get me discussing wheel bearing issue, I've replaced or had replaced 10 of the total 12 so far!

To all our members to the North of the USA border, may you all have a SAFE and ENJOYABLE holiday with friends, family and your DJ's

Well we went out together and the module did NOT "freeze up", but instead connected to MY phone with no service bars. During a stop light I switched to her phone in settings screen and got service bars by the phone icon on the main screen. We did not try making any calls thru either phone setting, nor had anyone try to call us during our "outing". I guess such is life with modern technology according to how old/young that technology is! 🤔🙁