5rebel9

Your DJ was certainly NOT a "plain Jane" ride and was (is) quite sharp with all you had done with it! BUT your "Caddy" is just as impressive and I'm sure that a Cadillac outshines a Dodge suv any day. Good luck with the 2 new(er) rides and HAPPY MOTORING ! Going to MISS you here all the same, at least your pic's and posts will always be here to look at!

I agree, and posted to the OP that they should check into the VVT solenoids(intake and exhaust) in his other topic relating to the brake codes. Due to the pictures of the HIGHLY SLUDGED cylinder head/valvetrain area of pictures he had posted about possible timing chain. At least pull them out and TRY cleaning them with spray carb cleaner or brake cleaner spray.

Welcome to the forum! ALL vehicles of the Dodge family with remote start incorporate this resisterwhich provides a small electrical signal to the various modules to tell which position the switch is in. for circuit /module protection and such. I would NOT attempt using anything other than the specific required resistor or more preferred hood safety switch which is also the same switch used in the Caravan/ Town&Country vans.

not just an issue of pads and rotors, but that caliper slide pins are "free" and not seized. And also that rear calipers are also in good "order". BTW.....WHAT was the cause/fix to the crank/no start/timing chain issue????? many folks gave their time and suggestions to try and assist you, it would be nice to find out what was going on.

Your BEST way to find the cause is to have a full system scan done(one that can read more than just basic OBDll engine codes). Good scanners can pull "history" codes even if the current warning lights are NOT displayed.

As long as the timing marks align properly, I would say that the chain and tensioner guides are OK. BUT from your pictures.... You have a highly SLUDGED motor. MY suspicion is plugged up VVT solenoids for intake and exhaust cams and possibly VVT filter screen which the screen requires the cylinder head to be removed to get to it. Time to do some serious Dodge 2.4 motor youtube searching.

I never had any luck with trying to do the old school of boiling the stat. And the routing of coolant flow sends flow thru the radiator only after the stat opens, so that if stat does NOT FULLY OPEN you have reduced flow thru the radiator and thus cooler temp reading there with a temp gun and high heat feel thru the heater core. Doorman or any part can fail even if NEW.

Just as the PLASTIC T-Stat cover and stat are known to stick open, they can also do the reverse and only PARTIALLY open. I had this happen last summer with our '13 rt, and got the same situation as you have. I spent the $$ for the Aluminum stat housing and stat...NO problem since.

Pull the plugs and COMPARE coloration pattern of the threaded end porcelains and electrodes to each of the others. This is an OLD SCHOOL way to check for an individual cylinder problem. PLugs are an EASY to do with the 4 cyl. motor.

Well, I watched your video numerous times AND rechecked your previous postings. What did you ever do about the cooling system trouble of past? How many miles on the car NOW and have you ever changed the Spark plugs? NOW too your video.... There is definitely NO BATTERY ISSUE here . The way the motor is spinning is suggesting to me that there are motor issues going on and WHY I posted about MILES on the car AND SPARK PLUGS. I agree about changing the crank sensor, as this sensor WILL prevent engine from running while cam sensors will .

Could you be a little more specific? Does the starter motor spin the engine but NOT have the ENGINE "fire up" OR does not even crank over the starter motor?

As a country , we've seen our share of trials and tribulations. BUT we've made it to 250 years young! Let us all remember and CELEBRATE our history and work together to make our country even BETTER as we look forward to the next milestones. May all our USA Journey members have a SAFE, ENJOYABLE HAPPY HOLIDAY !🎉

The way my family drives, all three of our journeys will break through the 200k mile barrier by mid autumn. Rear struts are NOT FUN to change, and I like the aluminium T-stat and the aluminium oil filter housing.... basically ONE TIME and DONE with few worries. But with 3 of these on the road....just don't get me discussing wheel bearing issue, I've replaced or had replaced 10 of the total 12 so far!

To all our members to the North of the USA border, may you all have a SAFE and ENJOYABLE holiday with friends, family and your DJ's

Well we went out together and the module did NOT "freeze up", but instead connected to MY phone with no service bars. During a stop light I switched to her phone in settings screen and got service bars by the phone icon on the main screen. We did not try making any calls thru either phone setting, nor had anyone try to call us during our "outing". I guess such is life with modern technology according to how old/young that technology is! 🤔🙁

So just to make clear, there is NO failure of the HFM/Bluetooth module. I checked the '13 for preferred phone setting and set the wifes phone as preferred. The '17 was already set to her phone as she is mostly driving it now. This situation only happened when we were together with both the phones at the same time in the '13. going out today together again with the '17 and will see what happens in that car with both phones.

Yes, our '13 rt which did this on us is also the 8.4 screen with the alpine sound system. This was the first time that we both had our phones in the car at the same time. I could not get the settings screen to move until I "reset " the system by removing the HFM fuse and reinstalling the fuse. I did not get the chance to look for seeing if there was a "prefered phone" setting on the '13, I know our '17 does but we have NOT had both our phones at the same time in that car yet. I have that one set for MY phone for the '17. When the wife gets home from work tonight, I will "check" for preferred phone setting on the '13 Unfortunately NEITHER car has NAV. Thanks for the reply!

Well, I learned something about the HFM system operation on Saturday. Our '13 RT has always worked fine....UNTIL I paired my phone to it along with the wife's phone. Saturday we were both together and "out and about with both of us having our phones with us and found that the HFM locked up and not working even the audio voice command for radio was not working. So when we got home I went and got to the interior fuse panel and pulled the fuse for HFM, it was not blown but put a new fuse in anyway and all functions returned. I guess having multiple paired phones at the same time in the vehicle "confuses" the HFM. I guess I will have to learn to unpair my phone when we go out together BEFORE starting out when we both have our phones....She gets many more calle than I do. OR does anyone have a better solution for this situation?

I must have missed reading of your care in maint. for your past '09 ride. When I first came to this forum, there were many folks posting of having broken timing belt problems, and very few that I found of even supporting the need to replace according to the "book". Yes 100k miles or 7 years if I remember correctly, and an engine used in many Dodge models of the "era" and why I always "steered clear" of having one with the 3.5 and worse was the 2.7.

Which as of yet, I have NOT read of anyone replacing according to year age or mileage. Stripped cog teeth or broken, means catastrophic ENGINE DAMAGE.

They say that all good things must come to an end. Sorry to see your ride meet it's end and for you to "sign off" from the forum. We got a little "nice weather" here, so I started looking over my son's '11 "old red" and am starting to consider the same end for "old red". My son is very happy with the '13 4 banger we transferred to him. and can't see putting the front end back together again with the rest of the body and paint looking rather sad. I'm still going to track down the coolant leak and repair to make sure there was no major engine damage from when it "blew", and if OK my friend is wanting the car for drivetrain parts. May you enjoy your next vehicle!

Good on oil, but what about the trans FILTER??? Is this a 4 speed or 6 speed trans?

On rockauto under Body&lamp assembly you drop down to lift support and there are a number of offerings for the rear hatch rods.

Sorry to hear of your issue, not fun when away from home to have happen. As for electrical(battery), it is not just volts but cranking amps available in the battery. And as us "old timers" would say, a dead or dying cell inside the battery. Not the most fun to get to the battery but good clean posts and cable ends at the battery are critical for keeping the overall system happy. MY "bet" is dirty battery connections and a dying battery.

WOW! A very detailed write up and good pic's also. You certainly did some "deep diving" homework to pull this "mod" off. This would probably also work for the 4.3" screened models with longer wires and module placement in a different location due to the storage bin of the trim panel of the 4.3" version. A trip to the salvage yard could help lower the cost for the module, if one wants to go thru the agony of removing one at the growing popularity of U pull it / pick a part salvage yards.I got one for free thru my friend to get the HFM/phone working on our '13sxt (4.3"), but I had to pull it. MANY people really do like the feature of having hands free phone in cars today! I guess $$ off for vehicle sales price to have people buy the FCA models by NOT having it as a STANDARD feature across all DJ trims and other models. I may need to investigate this further and see if your way will work on my '14 Grand Caravan wheelchair van with its base radio.