OhareFred

AWD or FWD?  Could be any number of things.  CV joints, axles, wheel bearings.  Stay tuned, I’m sure someone with more knowledge and better answers will chime in...

New cooler is in and car is running.  Yipee.
I'll drive it a bit more tomorrow and check for new leaks.
 
Barring any troubles, so far I'll call this a day and a half project.
 
2 things I learned that I didn't notice in videos:
- The size of the inverted torx socket needed for the bolts on the oil cooler is an E8.  Murphy's law - I didnt have this size and had to run out and get one.
- After reassembly and starting the engine for the first time, the oil pressure shot to 90 (H) and stayed there.  I was worried.  I checked the new oil filter to make sure it was wet to somewhat confirm oil was circulating, and it was.  When first leaving the driveway, the pressure went up to 92, then dropped to 88.  At least electrically it was working, versus a disconnected or shorted wire.  Then it started to fluctuate downward to normal.  Whew.  My guess is it had to recalibrate?  (Or maybe I never notice what the oil pressure is when the engine is first started.)
 
 
 
 

Well, if it’s running it should throw a code.  The code should point where to look.  Yes mice,etc love to chew on wires.  Glad things are looking up!  I would still complain about the dealer. They never should have given you the car in limp mode.....

Well, if it’s running it should throw a code.  The code should point where to look.  Yes mice,etc love to chew on wires.  Glad things are looking up!  I would still complain about the dealer. They never should have given you the car in limp mode.....

I hate to keep saying this, but stop throwing parts at it.  It’s costing you big $$. Get it to the dealer, get it checked, and go from there.  Did the dealer let you drive it out of there in limp mode without telling you what was wrong?  Get on the phone with FCA and the dealer owner/general manager and calmly explain what is going on.  There is no way they should have let you leave without giving you a diagnosis of why it is in limp mode. If they did and you left anyway, that’s on you. If they just handed you the keys and showed you the door, it’s on them.
 
I understand you have $ issues right now, so either let it sit until you can afford the dealer, look it over, or have someone you trust look for disconnected, loose, broken wires etc.  Not too many other options....wish the fix was simple....?

you do understand that you MUST disconnect the battery BEFORE touching the battery cables together, right? If you don’t the battery could explode.  Personally I don’t think touching cables together does anything. Disconnect the battery for an hour and that should drain any residual power from the various systems and reset everything.

I hate to keep saying this, but stop throwing parts at it.  It’s costing you big $$. Get it to the dealer, get it checked, and go from there.  Did the dealer let you drive it out of there in limp mode without telling you what was wrong?  Get on the phone with FCA and the dealer owner/general manager and calmly explain what is going on.  There is no way they should have let you leave without giving you a diagnosis of why it is in limp mode. If they did and you left anyway, that’s on you. If they just handed you the keys and showed you the door, it’s on them.
 
I understand you have $ issues right now, so either let it sit until you can afford the dealer, look it over, or have someone you trust look for disconnected, loose, broken wires etc.  Not too many other options....wish the fix was simple....?

Yeah this didn't work.

You need to take it back to a Dodge dealer.  The plastic shroud over the intake has no real function, but he should have put it back.  What kind dealer just replaces “the computer” without diagnostics?  Exactly what computer did they replace? There are several.  When it broke down a couple miles from the dealer you should have had it taken right back there.  Oh well, shoulda, woulda, coulda.
First bit of advice. The first mechanic does not seem to have an accurate grasp as to what is going on.  Get the engine shroud from him, say thank you for trying, and run away. Next,  Tow the car back to the dealer and pay for an EXACT diagnosis of what is wrong.  Get it in writing. You a either pay them or someone else, but it’s going to take some more $ to get it running.  Could be as simple as a connector left disconnected by the first guy.  Third, if you left the car sitting for 3years and didn’t properly store it (remove/treat fuel system, change oil, etc) you can’t blame the car. Look in the mirror and blame them.  Sorry, but that’s the sad truth...
 
I truly  hope your luck turns around and things get better for you right away!

well at my dealership there is a 129 charge for diagnostics charge that goes towards the repair if they do the job, sounds like there is more of a problem than just the computer that was mentioned,yes dodge dealerships are a higher cost but also they usually are more qualified on what repairs they do than your local garages, sorry you are gong thur this mess but my advise is to pick ! mechanic and only 1,,,to fix it otherwise you are just throwing parts at a vech. that might not be needed

Mechanic said it was the computer. I had Dodge ordered the computer ($500) and had Dodge install and program it today. ($469) The mechanic at Dodge said it needed a new battery too. I got that. He installed and went to start it and black smoke filled the garage and it started and was running. But was running in limp home mode. Absolutely no power and the lightening bolt thingy flashing again. It stalled and wouldn't start 4 miles down the road. After paying Dodge and towing it around all day, I'm broke
 
Dodge dealer diagnosed the problem and did the work, to fix the issue they found ( they scanned for codes then,) It stopped working after you left their shop. Speak to that shop manager or call the customer complaint line for Dodge...someone here must also know that number for you. You paid for professionals to diagnose and repair the issue, make them stand by their work, and warranty on that work performed.

Varying  heat the first thing to check is glycol level; low level can cause this to happen.
Also bad dash electrical actuator switches. Common issue if you search site.
Fried phone very strange, fuse should have blown on outlet.
My wife’s alternator puked at around 100k miles, a little early. 
Original battery on 2015 , surprising.

just re posting this issue with the site,come on who ever started the site ,update and add when a person post a question to have standard the normal question like yrs,engine size, to help avoid the 20 question problem

As you can see all light up now.  Easy fix once I figured out the bulbs required: 2 #37, 1 NEO T3  original T3 bulb is in the picture.?

Yes. I'm hoping it's this fuse causing grief. However could still be alternator. Voltage Was 12.72v then decided to take it for a 10 minute drive. Got home, waited an hour and checked voltage and it's only at 12.68? But when idling its charging fine at 14.50. So either the alternator isn't pumping out enough juice while actually driving (I had two seat warmers on, HVAC front and HVAC rear on as well) , or my battery drained quite a bit in the hour it sat. Currently reading another topic about a user who experienced this exact same thing. Unfortunately he never posted a solution. 
 
One thing at a time though. First I want to see which fuse is problematic. Then once I figure out that gremlin, I'll move on to the charging issue by connecting my obd2 scanner and monitor the voltage while actually driving to see if it dips.

As you can see all light up now.  Easy fix once I figured out the bulbs required: 2 #37, 1 NEO T3  original T3 bulb is in the picture.?

Got it all wired up...instructions came from mopar them self.. Very simple and easy to do. I already had everything so it was easier for me.. This also isnt a temporary fix. Its what mopar came out with as a cheap option to permanently bypass the internal fuel pump relay.. 
I started the car about 25 or more times in 2 days and also drove 100 miles. Starts up on a dime and fuel pump kicks on every time the key is turned on. 
Im going to  attach the pdf file so if this will help any one feel free to down load it..
Also will try to update the title to fuel pump relay fix... Thanks alot for your help guys..
S1308000399.pdf

@OhareFred that's some great determination and great research. Amazing job getting this fixed and thanks for the updates.

The op was a 1 post wonder that never came back...

As you can see all light up now.  Easy fix once I figured out the bulbs required: 2 #37, 1 NEO T3  original T3 bulb is in the picture.?

Final update: smallest bulb was replaced by a NEO T3.  Fit perfectly.  All bulbs replaced by LED’s..,

As you can see all light up now.  Easy fix once I figured out the bulbs required: 2 #37, 1 NEO T3  original T3 bulb is in the picture.?

Nice job! I've replaced similar bulbs for dash cluster lights  in many dodge vehicles, but not in HVAC controls to know what they used.  Also I'm to new to the Journey to have been working in the dash stuff yet.  I don't even have a cheap Haynes book yet for ours, like I usually get for each of my cars.

As you can see all light up now.  Easy fix once I figured out the bulbs required: 2 #37, 1 NEO T3  original T3 bulb is in the picture.?

As you can see all light up now.  Easy fix once I figured out the bulbs required: 2 #37, 1 NEO T3  original T3 bulb is in the picture.?