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JohnnyRevs last won the day on March 5

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About JohnnyRevs

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  1. 2013 RT Seized Calipers

    If its just your slide pins at fault, then I think that should be inspected / serviced under a normal standard service. If the same dealer has previously serviced the car and neglected this, then they may be covering their own ass by passing it back to you. I'm distrustful of dealers at the best of times! FYI, I've had to replace 2 calipers in 8 years of ownership (since new), 1 after 5 yrs & the other just last month. IMO, I don't think that's too bad. I now do my own servicing & maintenance, so I've just myself to blame. Not necessarily a good thing! ;-) Overall, though, I like the car & its given me good service over the years. If I could buy a new one, I would (NLA in Ireland). Good luck
  2. 2010 Journey R/T Front Grill

    As you're new to the DJ, the link below may be of some use...though you may be better to go to your local dealer... https://www.factorychryslerparts.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_assembly=1614595&ukey_make=1062&ukey_model=15496&modelYear=2017&ukey_category=20301&ukey_driveLine=10053&ukey_trimLevel=25160
  3. New grill bought from ebay

    Never mind, telepathic post simultaneously (almost) on the Exterior & Body sub-forum, replied by J Keaton . Thanks J & Brent G ! :-) BTW, think it would be worth combining those 2 sub-forums into just 1 !
  4. New grill bought from ebay

    Out of interest, do you know if the 2011 onward (or later still) grills will swap on to a 2010 car? 'Was thinking of getting a blacked out one similar to the new crossover models but I've not heard (or seen) of anyone doing that The overall shape & size of the new grill looks very like the old one(?) .... Murkies!
  5. fuel filter

    As an FYI, for diesel owners in Europe or elsewhere, there is an additional fuel filter at the rear of the engine bay, adjacent to the ABS distribution unit (see pic attached). It is a cylindrical type, secured by a T30 Torx bolt - the hex-head bolt just stops it rattling but the torx-bolt holds the clamp in place & is hidden behind one of the pipes shown in the first picture. If your engine is running a bit rough, then the first thing that should be done is to change the fuel filter, especially if not done for some time. Dodge recommended interval is 36,000 Km. That was the last time I swapped mine. However, based on my experience, I'd shorten that to every 24,000 km. Its amazing the difference it can make - now feels more powerful and much smoother than before. When I emptied the old filter, I was surprised at the blackness of the fuel that came out. One thing to note is that its very easy with this type of filter to leave a leak - the o-ring that is situated at the top of the filter tends to get caught is the securing "tang" that holds the main fitting in place. I found the best way to fit without a leak was to remove the joining unit for the 2 pipes (pic2) and fit this off the car. Hope this helps someone.
  6. To keep costs down, perhaps some of the components you could get from a breakers e.g. foglight housings / grills etc (as per JKeaton) ? But, I'm not familiar with your warranty terms - must be 5 year I'm guessing ? Warranty may not even cover those components so it might be worth re-reading it.
  7. Power Window Issue

    Apologies, I'm a bit late on this thread so you may have the problem fixed by now. If not.... There are 4 things here that could go wrong - 1. the switch for the window 2. the window regulator - this is the mechanical unit that slides the glass up and down. 3. the window motor - this is the motor that powers the regulator up and down. 4. Body control module (BCM) - this is the ecu that governs and monitors the various body-related systems such as doors & windows However, if you can hear clicking, noises etc, it means... - the switch appears to be working - the motor is trying to power the window - the BCM seems to be functioning normally So, IMO, that means either the motor is not functioning correctly or the mechanism (regulator) to slide the window up and down is jammed. If you have the time and inclination, you can remove the inner door lining (easy when you've done it once), and after re-attaching the electrical connections, press the switch to see what's happening. If there is clicking occurring, it could be that the regulator is jammed and cannot move the glass. It could also be broken teeth or something similar on the motor itself. You won't know unless the door lining is removed and you take a look at the components. BTW, you can use the following website to get an idea of the components involved. I've narrowed it down to 2013 MY door components. The website also gives you an idea on parts-cost. http://www.factorychryslerparts.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_assembly=1117260&ukey_make=1062&ukey_model=15496&modelYear=2013&ukey_category=20305 HTH!
  8. JohnnyRevs

  9. if you're heading to the UK, you could check some breakers yards for parts for the Dodge Journey that Chrysler stopped selling in the UK in 2010. Its possible they'll fit (design looks very similar IIRC) but you could probably drive in there and check the compatibility before handing over cash? Try http://www.chryslerbreakers.co.uk/ for example. You could also take a look at the http://www.factorychryslerparts.com/ to see if the catalog contains similar references to the Fiat website? Not sure if helpful or not... Alternatively, and temporarily, you can buy stick-on beam deflectors that will allow you to drive the car in the UK - same as every tourist fits to their car when they cross the English Channel. I doubt you have to register / test the car immediately upon arrival in UK (but I could be wrong!) No need to panic just yet, I think..
  10. Rear calipers locked up in driveway?

    Could be the pistons seizing up in the caliper -it can happen if the boot gets damaged and water / rust gets in so the piston doesn't slide easily anymore. Happened on one of my rears where the boot was damaged. I just put on a new caliper for around €50 (fitted myself) - was cheaper than replacing a set of tyres! If its recurring, I suggest new caliper or, you can probably get a kit to service your existing caliper if you want to save cash and have time to spare - this will mean removing the caliper and disassembling and cleaning the piston. They usually come with new boots too. It takes an hour or 2 but is quite satisfying when it all works afterwards. I wouldn't ignore it too long however - you'll end up having to get towed and paying through the nose to have it done urgently, not to mention the cost of a replacement car while its off the road.
  11. Right Place?

    Here you go. Was just posted recently on another thread...
  12. Right Place?

    I too used to hear a creaking noise on one side that sounded like grease was needed somewhere on the front suspension. I had it checked out at the time but nothing was found to be amiss. In the end, I got so used to it that I stopped hearing it. I only noticed it again when the noise disappeared, which happened after I had replaced a front control arm due to a worn bushing. However, I'm sure I read on this forum about applying lubricant to the lower front control arm bushings to dispel the noise. You could give that a try to see if it helps?
  13. struts and bushings

    great that you can do all that yourself - I had to change a front-top shock mount and bearing - not an especially tough job in itself but my problem was undoing the 18mm nut on the drop links for the sway bar. It's worth giving these a thorough clean-up and lube before undoing. Also found that a narrow 18mm open-end spanner would have helped (if I had one) to hold the balljoint on the drop-link in place - I wasn't comfortable using the torx bit as I thought it would spin out. It held out for me in the end. Took me over half-a-day to do this job because of that darned balljoint. Found this video on Youtube to be helpful in outlining the procedure...
  14. 2012 Journey Clicking Noise

    Hi Tammy, apologies, coming to this late so maybe you have this sorted by now? I had this problem on my Journey but it turned out to be just the copper shims that sit on the brake caliper. They allow the brake pad to easily move in an out and also keeps them under tension to stop them vibrating in place. I had the same symptoms in that it rattled around when driving at slower speeds but disappeared when braking and at higher speed - I suppose that the pressure of the brake piston under braking keeps them from rattling around so the noise disappears and at higher speeds, either I just couldn't hear them or perhaps the higher speeds somehow kept them in position? The shims are gently sprung to keep them in place but I guess mine became lose and popped out. They were only around €10 (prob $10 for you) for a couple of sets (i wanted a few spares). Hopefully, you got you problem sorted but please post back to let the rest of us know!
  15. +1 on that - I'm inclined to agree with JRod - my Journey was squeaking as described above and I'd learned to ignore it over time. However, I replaced the control arm recently due to a worn bush and hey presto, squeaking gone. As he says, I think some lubricant would have solved it, so I wouldn't go and fit a new arm just for that.