Powerz69

HIR all the way!!!
Make sure your wires aren't backwards on the LED plug side before the LED driver. 
When I installed my HID ballasts I had the same issue, the lights would shut off when I put it into gear. I switched the wires at the plug on the relay harness and that solved the lights turning off when put into gear. My relay harness only uses the drivers factory light plug, that's why both of my lights went out.

Nice!!!
Just wanted to add to this because this sentence can be wrong.
"If you have OEM projectors and have put HIDs in, then you're fine as well."
It should be, If you have OEM HID projectors you can change the color [Kelvin] of a HID bulb and be good as well.
BUT if you have OEM Halogen projectors that usually takes a HIR bulb You should not be installing a HID bulb into them! Doing so could cause even more glare to oncoming drivers. Just like the pictures of the HID bulb and the Halogen bulb difference, the same is true for projectors. A halogen projector is optimized for a Halogen bulb. Placing a HID bulb into a Halogen projector will give a different focal point causing light to leak above the cutoff shield. This type of glare can be very bad as the light leak is now projected at oncoming drivers causing a more intense glare.
 
I see this a lot more with the Dodge trucks that have the OEM Halogen projectors. Now there is a proper way to do this as well. It involves removing the Halogen projector usually out of the back of the headlight housing and replacing it with a OEM HID projector that will fit and bolt right up.   
 

You were being treated in a truly condescending manner and/or the CSR you dealt with is a complete idiot.  And I'm amazed to still be hearing about this after 6 years.  By now you'd think they'd have figured it out because it is NOT rocket science.

Let's start with: 
 
1. There is no place 'in the engine' for any volume of gas - fuel flows from the tank through the pump and to the injectors.
2. The specification is for what's known as the 'dry capacity' of the gas tank - if there was indeed 'place in the engine' for gas it would be in addition to the tank capacity because the fuel is pressurised by the fuel pump IN the tank - the engine couldn't use any fuel 'in the engine' because once the tank was empty there would be no pressure to drive the fuel through the injectors. 
3. Note that the capacity specification presumes that there is no fuel at all in the tank, which can never happen, unless there's a hole, the tank has been removed and drained or it's a brand, spanking new tank.  So unless the pump is inaccurate you can never pump in the entire 20.5 or however many gallons are specified for your vehicle (AWD vehicle tanks are slightly different from FWD, by the way).
4. If you slowly top up the tank to the point where the fuel level remains at filler's neck, then the tank is full.

Now, it is NOT a good thing to run the tank down to the point where the vehicle stalls too often for a couple of good reasons:
 
1. The fuel in the tank is used to cool the fuel pump.
2. Once the fuel level gets down near the bottom of the tank, the pump may well start to suck in any crud that has settled. 
 
There is a strainer in the pump, but you don't want it to get blocked up if you can avoid it and you don't want the pump to overheat either - those are a relatively expensive repairs, but for the purpose of characterising the issue it shouldn't hurt anything to run the diagnostics.
 
There is no way to completely drain the tank in any case, since the inlet is slightly above the tank floor, this in part to minimise the likelihood of the fuel pump ingesting any crud - but also because the pickup would need to be outside of the tank to do this - so there's likely to be (and I have not done any scientific measurements, so this is just a WAG) a gallon or so that is left in the tank when the vehicle stalls out from fuel starvation . . . .
 
Note that even with a normally operating fuel gauge you have up to 75 miles or even more of range (depending on driving conditions) before it stalls out, so when you fill normally there is likely to be a couple or so gallons of fuel in there above the fuel pump's inlet.
 
Now, there are only two possible explanations for why you can't pump in more than the 14 gallons or so of fuel your report once the gauge reads empty:
 
1. The fuel gauge is not reporting the level properly - and note that for the vast majority of us the gauge DOES work reasonably accurately.
2. The fuel tank is deformed and simply does not have the capacity to hold as much fuel as specified.

There's a third one, though it doesn't affect capacity, just how fast you can fill the tank - and that is:

3. Because the filler pipe might be kinked.

It could always be a combination of these three, of course.

The way to figure out which it likely is requires experimentation and a tiny bit of logic :

1. Fill a gas canister with a known amount of fuel - one or two accurately pumped gallons of fuel should suffice - and put that in the vehicle.
2. Note the mileage and fuel gauge position when the 'low fuel' light comes on.
3. Continue to drive the vehicle until the engine starts to sputter, pull over and switch off the engine - try not to be too far from a quality gas station that has reasonably accurate pumps.
4. Note the gauge position, mileage and reset the fuel economy gauge.
5. Pour all the fuel in the gas canister into the tank, drive to the gas station and fill the tank TO THE BRIM, topping it up until you see fuel in the neck that does not flow down the tube when you stop filling.
6. Note the amount of fuel you pumped in, add the amount of fuel that was in the a canister to the total and subtract the amount of fuel that was used to get to the station based on the economy gauge readout and the distance travelled from the 'sputter point'.
 
By doing this you will have characterised the amount of 'reserve range and the relative positions of the fuel gauge when it goes into reserve and when the vehicle is out of usable fuel.
 
- If the gauge position at the 'sputter point' is too high then it is a perception issue.
- If you get a number like 14 gallons the problem is the tank itself.
- If you pumped in 18-20 gallons of gas then it is going to be the fuel level sender and/or the device (known as an A to D converter) that converts the sender's data to a value that the vehicle's BCM uses - the part may actually be IN the BCM, but that's just a detail.

- If you can't fill the tank at the pump's normal speed, then likely the filler is crimped or kinked . . . . . but you should still be able to fill the tank, albeit slowly.  If the pipe is bent or crimped it may also be a sign that the tank is deformed.

And with the information gleaned from this test you should have the information necessary to get the problem resolved.  Of course it could be that you aren't running the tank down to the bottom  1/8 of a 20 gallon tank being about 2.5 gallons - add that to the 'unusable' gallon or two and pumping 14 or so gallons in because you used none of the reserve might well be normal.
 
I don't know why FCA hasn't done this (or perhaps they have and determined that the cost to repair is high enough that they simply don't want to admit it).

Please let us know what you determine.

Simplest answer:
 
The ONLY way to properly convert to HID from other technologies is to install a full projector setup to replace whatever light source may be in the vehicle. 

LED conversions typically suck.

HIRs work well when you aren't willing to do the mechanical work necessary for a proper technology conversion.  Note that they are 3000K lights, so you won't be getting that 'blue dazzle' that some seem to feel is a requirement.

If you can't do it properly, then your best bet is to not do it at all.

Nice!!!
Just wanted to add to this because this sentence can be wrong.
"If you have OEM projectors and have put HIDs in, then you're fine as well."
It should be, If you have OEM HID projectors you can change the color [Kelvin] of a HID bulb and be good as well.
BUT if you have OEM Halogen projectors that usually takes a HIR bulb You should not be installing a HID bulb into them! Doing so could cause even more glare to oncoming drivers. Just like the pictures of the HID bulb and the Halogen bulb difference, the same is true for projectors. A halogen projector is optimized for a Halogen bulb. Placing a HID bulb into a Halogen projector will give a different focal point causing light to leak above the cutoff shield. This type of glare can be very bad as the light leak is now projected at oncoming drivers causing a more intense glare.
 
I see this a lot more with the Dodge trucks that have the OEM Halogen projectors. Now there is a proper way to do this as well. It involves removing the Halogen projector usually out of the back of the headlight housing and replacing it with a OEM HID projector that will fit and bolt right up.   
 

I'm copypasta-ing this from another forum. With the rash of "I'm getting HIDs for my car" or "how to put HIDs in my Journey" or whatever threads. I urge anyone/everyone here considering it or with friends that do it to give it a read.

Ok, another fun rant for everyone...well, maybe not everyone. Those of who you care about "doing things right" and research your modifications before installing them, I'm not looking at you. Yes, there are correct ways to retrofit HIDs into your car that came with reflector housings. If you have done this, thank you and good job. If you have OEM projectors and have put HIDs in, then you're fine as well. The ones I am looking at, again, are those who blindly throw parts at their cars without even the basic understanding as to what they are doing. Today's focus is lighting. With the introduction of H.I.D (high intensity discharge ) or "Xenon" lighting in automotive applications, drivers have been given a better and safer way to see at night....mostly. This types of lights started out as OEM options and have slowly (well, back then) trickled their way down to the average consumer for a low price. At first, to have Xenon lighting in a car that did not come with it required getting a hold of an OEM setup, which was (and still is) very expensive. As aftermarket manufacturers saw the demand for these kits, they flooded the market with them for every automotive bulb under the sun. While a benefit to some, it has been a glaring problem to many motorists. Far too often, owners who like to modify their cars have been like horny leg-humping dogs by sticking these lights in every hole they can think of...weather they belong there or not. Not only have the applications of many of these lights been wrong, manufacturers have even gone as far as to manipulate the technology of these light to produce some of the most annoying and unusable lights ever conceived.

Let's look at a few basics.

Reflector vs projector housings..in one simple picture-



What is a H.I.D/Xenon bulb anyway? Well, your standard halogen bulb that has been standard for decades is nothing different in design than your typical household light bulb. It works by passing energy over a small filament which in turn causes the filament to become super heated and produce light. We should all understand how this works. Like this-



In HID or Xenon lighting, a small arc of plasma is created by energy passing through various gases and elements in a sealed chamber. This arc produces the light you see..it's kind of like a small lightning bolt to put it in simple terms. It works like this-



Let's discuss the two types of light bulbs and the two types of light housings used on cars today.

Now for a general light, this really is no different other than overall light output. The HID is able to produce a brighter light with less energy. But when it comes to automotive applications, things change...a lot. Automotive lights are designed in a very specific manner in order to put light where you need it, and not put light where you don't, as in putting light on the road and not in oncoming driver's faces. The general standard for years has been a halogen bulb in a reflector housing. In this housing, bulbs have a shield built into them to help control light output. Think of it like walking though a dark room with a candle to light your way. Notice that when you do this, the glare from the candle hurts your ability to see what you are trying to light up. What do most people do? Well, instinctively most people put their hand between their eyes and the candle. This is the same concept on most halogen bulbs and is designed to only allow light into a specific part of the reflector housing. You can see it here as a little piece of metal next to the filament-



And this is the desired effect of all of this. The location of the filament and the shield are super critical in the design of a reflector, changing the location of the filament's location even a couple of millimeters will change every angle at which the light travels, ultimately letting light go in places it was not designed to. This is is also the exact same reason why your high-beams project light much higher and wider- because the high-beam filament is no shielded and placed in a location that causes the light to scatter in a different direction.



There are many cars with projector lenses that use halogen bulbs. But the bulbs used in the projector housings do not, I repeat, do not have a shield on them. This is because the way a projector housing works, the lens (and if applicable, the shield build into the housing) does all the focusing. In some projector setups, both high and low beam patterns are available and are controlled with a movable shield. Here is an example of what I am talking about-



..and this is how a projector housing works-




Now when it comes to HID lights, almost all of the cheap/regular kits for most all bulbs are unshielded. There are a few exceptions that have a shield operated by a solenoid, but generally speaking most, if not all of your average HID installs in reflector housings are done wrong.

You average HID bulb looks like this-



Notice the little bubble in the middle? That is where the arc is produced and where the light comes from. Notice the difference in the following picture of the location of the halogen filament vs. the location of the HID "filament". This is the root cause of why putting HIDs in reflectors is never a good idea-
  This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image.

Upon changing the location of the actual light source, you get massive amounts of light scatter (glare). This is what is very bad and annoying to all other drivers on the road. You are essentially blinding them as if you were driving with your high-beams on. I've heard many people exclaim "but I can see so much better with my HIDs (in reflector housings)"...and this is only true because you are scattering light all over the place. Here are some examples of what I am talking about-

Halogen in reflector- This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image.

Halogen in projector-


HID in reflector housing- This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image.



Notice all the light scatter/glare that is up higher than the "cut off" line? That is bad...very bad. I could post up numerous examples of this all day long. Even while it "might not look so bad", it is bad. Aiming your headlights down won't help any either. All aiming your lights down will do is move the focus point down, but glare will still be emitted up and out. Oncoming drivers will see this. Most people might thing your brights are on too....even though they're not. Both of the car in the following picture are equipped with traditional halogen reflector housings..but one of them had improperly installed HID lights, can you tell which one is which?


  This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image.

See how bad that is? Sadly, none of the people doing this actually care they are blinding other drivers...nor do they really listen to those who care to inform them politely.


Lastly, we have color. For whatever reason that I may never understand, people seem to love the blue/pink/purple lights too. They think it looks "cool" or that they can see better with it. In fact, no matter what the reasoning is, they are 100% dead wrong. HID lights, as many know, are offered in different "K" ratings. This is for Kelvin. The Kelvin range describes light at different frequencies. Here is a simple way to understand Kelvin (K) and light output-
  This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image.

In reality, anything above 5K is really not any more helpful or useful to the human eye. In fact, the lower the Kelvin rating, the "better" it is for your eyes. Natural sun light is actually pretty yellow. Regualr halogen light is also on the yellow scale. The human eye likes this and is why we can see the colors we see. Notice with a blue or red light how everything looks a single color? This is the same for HID lights in the 8K+ range. Your eye does not like the frequency and takes much longer to adjust as well as a severe loss of detail when looking at something. This is actually why police lights are blue...because they're VERY attention getting and police want you to see their blue lights from as far away as possible...so you know they're there. Blue/purple/pink headlights are terrible for your eyes. I could actually give much more detailed information as to why, but I don't need to be that technical right now. Just know, and please understand why all of this is so bad.



TL;DR? Just read this:


If you put HIDs in your car and they don't look almost exactly like this-


Then you are doing it wrong and irritating everyone driving down the road at night.

If your lights looks like this..regardless of the HID in reflector housing...
  This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image.





...you are a danger to everyone else on the road.

So, don't use LED bulbs.

If you feel the need for more light either install HIR bulbs, which put out about 40% more light for the same power as stock, or add auxiliary lighting.

Make sure your wires match up. Remove the caps and plug the factory headlight plug into the relay harness, black to black or red to red I cannot remember. See if the relays stop buzzing. Install the cap again make sure the wires match up again if you can see them. You should really have the relay harness hooked up to the battery with an inline fuse.
Does everything work with the DJ not running? If so double check the wires before the relay harness making sure they match up.

Finally got some time to take a picture of my completed MD2S retrofit

Can't stress enough on how important it is to upgrade to projector headlights. Never mind this HID in reflector housing. That's just stupid and ignorant. Sure you think there is no glare above the cut off. But when your driving down the road and all the signs light up that means there is way to much glare and that's also in oncoming drivers eyes. I've stressed it before and people still say the cut off still looks the same, sure it looks the same but HID is not supposed to go in reflector housing that's why is going to be illegal to run them soon. If u want true hid performace go buy a projector and see what I'm talking about. Look at my pics in my gallery.

well said Cody . . . and LEDs are no better.

The lights at rockauto are good aftermarket lights that use butyl as a sealant. Lights with butyl are way more easy to bake open compared with the OEM lights with permaseal. You will still need to bake open the rockauto lights and paint the chrome black, and reassemble.

This is awesome!

What your looking at (black cap) is the access to the emergency release
for the PARK solenoid release.
If you can not get it out of PARK read the manual.

I have actually never seen a DJ with a hitch. More than likely, the Mopar is probably made by one of the well known hitch makers, but there have been a few posts on here where the OP gets the hitch installed someplace other than the dealer and then can not get the lights to work. So, I am going to play it safe. I will pay more, but will be included under my Warranty.

From the service manual:
TRAILER SWAY CONTROLTrailer Sway Control (TSC) is safety feature made possible by ESP. TSC does not require driver input; it activates once the yaw sensor recognizes the unique vehicle motion associated with trailer sway and no steering input. It becomes clear that this motion has to be from a trailer and thus activates the brakes to eliminate the trailer sway.
Lobitz is correct in that the trailer wiring is not part of the TSC equation. The Yaw Sensor detects side-to-side motion and compares that motion to the steering wheel angle and movement. If the driver is not moving the wheel left or right but the vehicle has that left-right motion, then the ESP kicks in to counter it.

Yes, you need a HID bulb that is made for the projector that you are using.
Yes they do, just a close guess but 9006 bulb is 1000 Lumens HID is around 3000 Lumens. All HID bulbs are around 3000 and up in lumens, no matter what the bulb is.
Legal projector HID bulbs are D1S,D2S,D2R,D3S,D4S, and I think H1 maybe. Everything else is Illegally made HID bulbs usually made in China.

In Alberta Canada we are required to have brakes on any trailer over 2000 lbs. plus if I'm towing in the mountains I would just feel safer knowing that the trailer pushing me down the mountain had brakes (:

with resistors if you get non inductive wirewound resistors with the ceramic case and rated at a wattage higher than the output of your factory system they wont get too hot. I am using 2 ,8 ohm,20 watt resistors wired in parallel to create a 4 ohm load and a power handling of 40 watts rms. on each channel. the stock uconnect 4.3 is only 15 watts at best. and yes you can mount them anywere,on the stock speaker wires before the loc. I have mine mounted directly to my loc. and they have never even gotten warm, even after a solid 25 minute drive with the system cranked up. Just think, you put the resistor where the factory speaker was then daisy chain a wire from that to the input on your loc. - your head unit sees a load(thinks its a speaker) and sends sound to that channel which is then intercepted by the loc. and then you can send it to your amp or wherever you want. btw , I would look for a resistor designed for use in audio projects as they will be less likely to "color" the sound.
Here is an example of the type of resistors to use.

I will take pics for you when it's not so gloomy out

Anything over 5000k is pointless, really 4300K is the ideal temperature for putting light down the road in my opinion.
Not to mention, unless you are retrofitting your headlights with a proper lens and cut-off you are just wasting money.
Aftermarket HIDs are more disruptive to other drivers than they are helpful to you.
Look at any vehicle with stock HIDs and you will see they are behind a lens and have a proper cut-off so as not to blind oncoming traffic.
Not to mention very few stock HID systems exceed 4300K.
8000k is just for looks, It puts out far less lumens than 4300K or even our stock Halogens.......
Go here is you want to learn how to build a proper HID light for our Vehicles.
http://www.hidplanet.com
Copied the follwoing from: http://www.audizine.com/forum/archive/index.php/t-352911.html
Here is some good info to help people decide on what to look for before they buy a HID kit.

Some important information I came from this site (http://www.delonixradar.com.au/hid-xenon/colour-chart.php) and this site (http://www.cobaltss.net/forums/showthread.php?t=94774)

"Colour temperature ('K') vs brightness...It is a common misconception that higher colour temperatures (K’s) produce brighter lights. This is not true. The colour temperature only determines the colour but not the brightness of the HID light. The Colour Temperature is simply a scale represented by the Kelvin Temperature Chart (hence the abbreviation “K” or “K’s”) as decpited above that measures the colour of the light output. Typically, the higher the colour temperature, the closer you get to achieving bluish to purplish light colours."

and

"The higher the Kelvin, the less light output you get (lumens).
With that said, anything over 6000K is basically a waste.
So, what is the best bulb? IMO the 4300K is the best, as it has the highest light output. The problem, though, is that they have a yellow-ish tinge to them that some people find un-attractive. In that case, 5000-6000k is a better choice for you..... as they have a more blue look to them."


Here is a good chart
http://www.877hidxenon.com/images/hid_color_chart3_fi8v.jpg


Some other good info from this site (http://www.cobaltss.net/forums/showthread.php?t=94774)

And a comparison of Kelvin to lumens;
Standard OEM halogen 55W 9006(HB4) = 1100lm (lumens)

4300k D2S Philips = 3200lm (lumens)
4300k D2R Philips = 2800lm (lumens)
4300k D2S Philips = 2400lm (lumens) actually 5800k
4300k D2R Philips = 2000lm (lumens) actually 5800k
4800k D4S/R (brand) = 3800 (lumens) ** brightest in the market
5800k D4S/R (brand) = 3300 (lumens)
7000k D2S other = 1790lm (lumens) *(other bulb brand)
7000k D2R other = 1390lm (lumens) *(other bulb brand)
8000k D2S other = 1180lm (lumens) *(other bulb brand)
8000k D2R other = 780lm (lumens) *(other bulb brand)

Higher than 8000k, the light output significantly drops off, causing the light to be almost useless.

One should point out that although light output drops off after 8000k, the fact that the light is in the blue-purple spectrum, it still puts a major strain on the eyes of others.

More useful information

And finally, for anyone searching for information on HID's or lighting in general, here are some important terms to know:
(Thanks to HIDPlanet)
Watt- Measure of electrical power (w)
Volt- Measure of electrical charge (v)
Kelvin- Measure of color temperature (K)
Lumen- Measure of light brightness (lu)
Capsule- technically correct term for a HID "bulb".
Candela- Measure of light intensity (cd)
Ampere- Measure of electrical current
Cut-off- A distinctive line of light produced by the shield in a headlight that blocks light above a certain height in order to prevent blinding of other motorists.
Beam Pattern- The pattern of light that is projected onto the ground which includes angle of lateral dispersion, width and depth of illumination.
Capsule- Another term for an HID bulb. Some refer to HID bulbs as gas discharge capsules.
Optics- The lighting control assembly structured around the bulb, which effects the dispersion of light and it's characteristics to a great degree.
HID (High Intensity Discharge)= Gas Discharge
Halogen= Incandescence

Yes, you need a HID bulb that is made for the projector that you are using.
Yes they do, just a close guess but 9006 bulb is 1000 Lumens HID is around 3000 Lumens. All HID bulbs are around 3000 and up in lumens, no matter what the bulb is.
Legal projector HID bulbs are D1S,D2S,D2R,D3S,D4S, and I think H1 maybe. Everything else is Illegally made HID bulbs usually made in China.

"Best" is probably in the eye of the beholder (especially with something like this), but this would be a pretty sweet set up...

I have a freemont 2014 with 8.4N system.
I was going crazy over the bad download page at crystler that supporting dodge/freemont uconnect & garmin(gps) downloads.

After I finally manage to download my updates both for the Uconnect and garmin(gps) and verified the update worked perfect (dident even loose any settings I had)

I made my own download page to help all others that can't make the original download to work.

Here you can find my page and hope it will help out.

https://sites.google.com/a/pantad.com/freemont-firmwares/
Cheers.

How to check if you need an upgrade:
Press the: temp up & down down & defrost buttons at the same time for 9 sec (they located under the screen), when your car is in "run" mode (press RUN two times without break pedal)
Then enter radio menu and check the version and compare to the version I have for download.
Goopd luck.

I believe it is. I had this done to my Nitro. The harness for the Nitro connected to both sides of the tail lights, added a 7 pin connector and then ran all the way to the front and tied into the battery and TIPM (to get the anti sway) and had a red wire inside by the steering column to add an electronic trailer brake controler.
I have a feeling that all of this is in the connector by the spare, on the DJ but the only way to get the anti sway to work would be to use the mopar harness and not a set of aftermarket T connectors on the tail lights.
Someone else with more knowledge of the DJ is welcome to tell me I'm wrong, because I'm still fairly new here and still learning my DJ. In fact, I had to push my front DEF button twice today to get it to work, but that is another story (Thread)!