Powerz69

Block heater I keep it outside. I use synthetic oil so I don’t plug it in unless it’s below -20C or -4F. I have it on a smart timer that turns on 6hrs before I start it. The 6hrs is more for when it’s -30C or lower. On a side note, since posting a few days ago it sounds like the power steering pump is now going. It’s whining after it gets hot. I think I’m going to take it in for this one as it looks to be pretty involved with not much people taking about it.

2014, 350km or 220miles. Just changed the original brakes and rotors at 330km. I’m blown away at how long the brakes lasted. Overall I’m very happy with the small amount of stuff that went bad. So far I replaced the front wheel bearings, Front lower ball joints, shocks front and back, radiators X2, viscosity unit for all wheel drive. I was able to replace everything myself and very happy about that. The viscosity unit was the only thing I was not happy about replacing. It went the fastest just over 100km and out of warranty. I drove it for another 120km before replacing it. lol

Looks good! Are those projectors your old MH1? Looks like you didn't have to cut the bowl for them, and your cutoff is awesome!!! love that shroud

Nice!!! Just wanted to add to this because this sentence can be wrong. "If you have OEM projectors and have put HIDs in, then you're fine as well." It should be, If you have OEM HID projectors you can change the color [Kelvin] of a HID bulb and be good as well. BUT if you have OEM Halogen projectors that usually takes a HIR bulb You should not be installing a HID bulb into them! Doing so could cause even more glare to oncoming drivers. Just like the pictures of the HID bulb and the Halogen bulb difference, the same is true for projectors. A halogen projector is optimized for a Halogen bulb. Placing a HID bulb into a Halogen projector will give a different focal point causing light to leak above the cutoff shield. This type of glare can be very bad as the light leak is now projected at oncoming drivers causing a more intense glare. I see this a lot more with the Dodge trucks that have the OEM Halogen projectors. Now there is a proper way to do this as well. It involves removing the Halogen projector usually out of the back of the headlight housing and replacing it with a OEM HID projector that will fit and bolt right up.

Running your high beams for 15 minutes or so will clear them back up. Your HIR bulbs will do the same thing but not as bad as the factory bulbs.

HIR all the way!!! Make sure your wires aren't backwards on the LED plug side before the LED driver. When I installed my HID ballasts I had the same issue, the lights would shut off when I put it into gear. I switched the wires at the plug on the relay harness and that solved the lights turning off when put into gear. My relay harness only uses the drivers factory light plug, that's why both of my lights went out.

Finally got some time to take a picture of my completed MD2S retrofit

What did you use to stick them back together with? I'd use some jb-weld.

The lights at rockauto are good aftermarket lights that use butyl as a sealant. Lights with butyl are way more easy to bake open compared with the OEM lights with permaseal. You will still need to bake open the rockauto lights and paint the chrome black, and reassemble.

Do you need a RPi2 or can the B+ be used?

This is awesome!

I was looking at this same product, thanks for the negative review.

I love my XB LED fogs!Did you get the TYPE M? I installed Philips 9011 HIR bulbs in my highbeam and there was no trimming of the bulb needed.