2late4u

Would be nice to know just where on the PTU it's starting to leak.
My '14 developed a leak where it mounts to the transmission. BUT this was due to the O ring seal being damaged when the trans was removed for torque converter replacement. 
IF your car's leak is from the seal for the passenger side axle shaft, that is much more easily replaced to fix the leak, and much less costly.
ALSO this sounds like a time to seek a second opinion from a trusted shop.

I completed the maintenance work over the last couple of days and the 300+ mile drive back to IL went without a hitch.  I average 23.3 mpg at, let's just say *quick* speeds, (according to the Fuel Economy reading on the IC) on the last 200 miles - I reset it after my last fill-up.  That was about 2mpg better than I saw on the drive from IL to MI before all the work.  Granted, that's a small sample size for comparison.
 
Here are some pictures of what was done...
 
Old vs. New air filter.  I couldn't read the make of the old (original??) air filter, but the new one is an AC Delco.  I like the additional pleats vs the old one.

 
In looking at how-to videos on removing the upper intake manifold to access the spark plugs, the ones I found talk about completely removing the rear intake bellow (somewhat under the cowl, between the throttle body and the upper intake manifold) first, and having to remove coolant hoses, etc. to make room to slide it out.  I actually found it easier to move that bellows off of the TB and move it just a little back to access that last upper intake manifold bolt that is hidden by it, and then remove the upper intake manifold first.  Then that bellow comes out easily and completes access spark plugs on the rear cylinder bank.

 
The spark plugs were the OE Champion, and I used NGK Iridiums as replacements.  Here are the old plugs, and a comparison of an old and new plug.


 
I also rotated the tires and bled the brakes.  While bleeding the brakes, I noticed the rear brake pads were getting low, so I went ahead and changed them.

 
While I had the upper intake manifold off, I took a picture down of the back of the intake valves.  They look pretty good/clean.  Again, my in-laws' Journey had ~57k miles on it at this point.

 
I also removed the platform running boards they had on there (they are hurting, more than helping, access at this point of their mobility).
 
Let's see, what else...I topped off the coolant and power steering fluids.  Oh, and I replaced the serpentine belt, its tensioner and idler pulley, as well - with the car being 10yrs old and the belt being original, it was just a preventive measure at this mileage.
 
Another item - the lower seat side trim piece on the passenger side had been broken loose from repeated entry/exit to the seat.  I found a way to use a hole on the seat frame and a trim panel clip to drill a 5/16" hole and secure that trim piece.  Aside from having to live with the appearance of the trim clip, it holds that plastic piece securely and works for us.  I'll get a picture of that later today and post it.

he didnt report back on whatever he found, so  a 2 post wonder that doesn't help anyone

The two things you can personally check that cause battery drain are:
 
Bluetooth - Dodge calls it HFM hands free module. Pull the fuse. Eliminated.
 
Glove box light staying on.
I disconnected the harness to it. Taped off securely. 
 
Dean

OK, so now I'm ENVIOUS! No wonder WHY you preferred to bring it to your home to do the work Indoors AND a hoist!!!!!!
Makes life {work} SO MUCH EASIER!

Then they should fit...try one on a front wheel to see if they hit the caliper???
 

Have YOU actually had YOUR vehicle scanned? YES OR NO
I have an automotive background and assist my Independent repair shop owner on tough diagnostics {I'm not always right, but we manage to find the problem somehow together}.
 Also knowing how the systems work, I've only experienced this particular lights happening as they are designed to do when the car senses lost traction or stability in nasty snowy weather.
YES there COULD be a problem stemming from a bad TIPM/FUSE PANEL....but there are many possible causes to this situation, there is NO SINGULAR "here's your fix answer unless you want to start shooting the parts cannon. PROPER vehicle diagnostics go a long way and a full scan will shorten the "journey" to a fix.
 
Unfortunately on any owner based forum, many problems are posted, but a lot do not come back and say definitely what the fix was or involved.

Could be a bad ground strap

EARLY morning typing miscues''''
   Should have been typed to read try using your spare key fob and see if all works correctly or not. 
IF it works correctly, then the circuit board in your primary use key fob is bad and that key fob will need to be replaced.

LOL  My daughter has one of those AND it needed a battery last fall. My son in law watched similar videos and "tackled" the job himself, He did a good job of it with only the "fail" of not properly aligning the wiper arms when finishing up. The wife and I visited the next day and I took care of that little glitch for them! HE said he would PAY PEP BOYS {franchise auto center} to change it next time, should they still have the car!

well it could be several problems ,bad throttle body or dirty, or could be a accelerator pedal sensor going bad,or many other things such as wire shorting out,,,you might start with cleaning the throttle body unit..check out YouTube videos more more info on how to do it or take it to a garage and let them check it out...good luck I am sure others will chime in soon maybe with more help........P.S. when asking for help it would be great if you gave us more info like which engine you have and the mileage of the journey and what kind of service has it rec over its lifetime

Doesn't seem to like your answers....needs MORE lol

quit worrying about what others tell you about their problems/solution,,, get it checked with a high quality scanner for codes, does seem to be a problem that cleaning the throttle body doesn't usually  fix it, get an OEM unit with new gaskets if you want to throw parts at it OR have a dealership diagnose the problem and LET them fix it yes more expensive but probably cheaper in  the long run

YES, TC will cut throttle response and why TB light FLASHES and is not steady. 
As I posted a higher level scanner is needed to see codes resulting from TC coming on. BASIC scanners only do OBDII engine/ trans codes not supplemental system codes {ABS/traction/Stability/SRS}.

well it could be several problems ,bad throttle body or dirty, or could be a accelerator pedal sensor going bad,or many other things such as wire shorting out,,,you might start with cleaning the throttle body unit..check out YouTube videos more more info on how to do it or take it to a garage and let them check it out...good luck I am sure others will chime in soon maybe with more help........P.S. when asking for help it would be great if you gave us more info like which engine you have and the mileage of the journey and what kind of service has it rec over its lifetime

well it could be several problems ,bad throttle body or dirty, or could be a accelerator pedal sensor going bad,or many other things such as wire shorting out,,,you might start with cleaning the throttle body unit..check out YouTube videos more more info on how to do it or take it to a garage and let them check it out...good luck I am sure others will chime in soon maybe with more help........P.S. when asking for help it would be great if you gave us more info like which engine you have and the mileage of the journey and what kind of service has it rec over its lifetime

That CEL being on while running in your video MEANS SOMETHING, get the car scanned for trouble codes and post them for some meaningful help from members here. Also post engine size {2.4 or 3.6} and any maint. work recently done.

Another vague post....no info but want a fix 3.6 2.4 who knows??
You also have a "gas cap" symbol lit up along with check engine so you obviously have an issue and a scan of the codes would certainly help diagnosing your issues
Keyboard mechanics can't help much 

You have been posting  to an existing topic that is already in the "proper" forum section. Go back  to the main section that this topic thread is on and read the ones that relate to your concern. You do NOT need to be 2015 year specific for this concern, the system is pretty much the same from 2016 and BACK.

So this Journey has over 100k miles on it already? Must drive it quite a bit, yes recheck/replace the plugs, but I still have a HUNCH that the crankshaft position sensor may be going out. As I stated before quite common to your symptoms. Has the CEL come on when driving it? Probably would not be a bad idea to have the computer scanned for trouble codes.

When were the plugs last changed? 2.4's need the plugs changed often and make sure the correct ones are used that would be a cheap place to start if it hasn't been done

OK, I understand better what you're speaking of. Unfortunately none of the 3 Journey's I have came with NAV., I have wanted to upgrade our '13 rt to that with the proper radio module but cost of even a used unit is out of range for our budget. 
There are a number of postings all the same about NAV. map problems AND fixes to be found on the proper forum section, try looking for them. Since I don't have that option of NAV., I have no knowledge of getting/keeping that feature working to pass along to you.
Also like stated before about the child booster seat, try google and youtube on the subject.

after i googled it it seems they did offer them on 2017 journeys not much info on them BUT they were an option probally more than you will want to find and buy but that is up to you ,,,,good luck and let us know what you do 

just connect the 1 hoses that deliver the hot coolant to the core with the return hose to the rad / engine from the heater core, i am sure you can google it or even better check on you tube for more info and videos 

Just finished replacing the #3 injector. Also replaced the o rings on 1 & 5 while the rail was off. Ran smooth at idle and was good on a test drive. But then again it was the other day too, so we'll see. 
 
As for the coil I got, it's a Blue Streak from Advance Auto. Made in Poland if that makes any difference. The injector I got was a Carquest Remanufactured, which was actually a Mopar part. 
 
I'll update when I have some results.