2late4u

this is so true my daughter had a jeep with the 2.4 eng and I always changed her plugs every 30 k and then one time amazon sent me the  iridium plugs instead of the normal OEM ones and I installed them and they were the correct number  plug as well but in less than a week she was saying dad the patriot is hesitating and not acting right, so I remembered about the plugs and went to the local part store and bought another set of the correct ones,installed them  and hey no more problems

This. A lot of people try to run platinum or iridium plugs in the 2.4 and it causes nothing but trouble. 

also only used the oem plugs that are the copper ones they are cheap and easy to change on the 2.4 ,,,about $5, each

Yes. I had to replace the EGR valve. Issue resolved. 

Plugs need to be replaced every 30,000 miles on the 2.4. Verify that has been done. All we can do is guess until more information is provided as requested. 

looks like 16 mpg in city and 21 interstate    depends on how you drive not to far off i get around 18- 20 in city and 23=26 interstate   which engine and how it is being driven?  and have you changed the spark plugs? 165 k =103 k in miles 3.6 change at 100 k and 2,4 eng every 30 k also you are due for the transmission service as well

@Rina5677 just to end my thread - it was a broken valve spring. I took the left head off and took it into a machine shop. Once re-installed she ran great.
 
Until a pedestrian ran out in traffic and I slid on ice into the car in front of me - written right off ??

@Elmwoodie did you have to take it to a dealership for a the TIPM install? Any issues afterwards?

Thanks. The battery and starter are in a tough spot for me to get to since I'm 60 yrs old with health issues. Think the shop is my best bet.

How old is the battery and how long since the battery posts and cable clamps have been cleaned? This is a very common problem with older batteries and lack of preventative maint. Once cleaned use a skim coat of Di-electric grease on the posts and cable clamp.YES the battery is in a wicked hard area to get to!

And those rear bags have lasted how long? You have done something that FEW have done with a Journey, and I know there is not much room to visually see for clearances of the rear strut perches. You did very well on the initial air system install! Now it's time to "fine tune" fitment to take care of the slight rubbing and make your planned  "upgrades" you posted of.
 Don't get discouraged and keep on going. Looking forward to more updates!
 

Well got started this weekend and didn't get as much as I wanted accomplished. Found rear passenger had been rubbing and rather then putting it back on and replaced it in the near future just ordered a replacement one. So needless to say that puts a slight delay in plan. 
 

 
The other delay is waiting on my Cadillac to finish getting the seats redone. Which is a good since this leave me extra room in garage while it being done but bad cause I am using the air manifold from that car to put in my dodge so i can then upgrade the Cadillac. I'm upgrading my Cadillac to 1/2" lines since the 3/8" setup works but not as quickly as I want, Cadillac is not a skinny girl ? ? ? ? 
 
Side note if anyone needs to replace front struts I found a bungee cord works perfect to hold brake assembly in place. I'm sure others know this but thought I'd share while I was at it. The jack is just there to keep it from sagging too much. Car is currently on 4 jackstands.

 
Other hiccup was I need to either trim the spring perch in rear or add a spacer. Rather the possibly ruining the rear struts went with a 1/2" spacer. So it won't sit as low now by 1/2" but I don't think it will be too noticeable when it's parked and layer down. Without the spacer the fittings would hit the perch and break from the weight. 
Man that took way too long to make by hand using a pipe cutter. One of those times I wish I has a bandsaw! 
 

Awhile ago I watched a video on how to replace the power steering pump and all i can say is wow. That engineer must have been pretty mad at the world when they designed that. 
 
Last year I had to replace a broken lug nut on my son's car. It broke just right where you couldn't get any socket to hold or fit. I ended up just getting a good drill bit and drilling out center of the lug. Leaving enough meat on it that I could just snap it off with some pliers and then I just replaced the lug and lug nut. This way it didn't damage the wheel. Luckily this was all done in my garage and not in the middle of who knows where due to a flat tire.
 
Which brings up a good point of not buying cheap lug nuts off ebay or Amazon. It's worth the extra $5-10 to not have to deal with this. 

Here is a couple videos I originally made about this. It was on this forum but was removed by accident 
 
Part 1
 
 
and part 2
 
https://youtu.be/mt2TkpJbZAQ?si=q0D_x7_0D2Ve5x9b
 
 

Rather own a good running car then a pretty brick lol
But in all honesty I've never been the type to want the best just different then others is all. Plus if I can do the work myself I would rather be proud of something I made with my own hands vs something I bought already done. That all said the Journey gets no love from people when I pull up until I either raise or lower it or crank up the stereo. Gone to more then 1 car show and they tried turning me away saying sorry spectators park over there. 

So anyone who remembers me recalls I put air ride on my Journey a couple years ago. It was a simple front and back setup with 1/4 lines. Well fast forward a couple years and I have decided to update it to individual corners running 3/8 lines. So it will move a bit faster and give me more control due to weight displacement being able to adjust each corner independently. This weekend plan on running the lines and replacing the fittings. From there need to start planning where to place tank and compressor. Think this time i will hide it under a raised floor. So... here I go. I will post as I go.

What really surprised me is when they first quit offering it with the V6, and never offered a SRT option. They made a SRT in almost every other vehicle so kinda surprised they never made a Journey with it 

150 k for me on my 2014 still waiting on the abs module from the dealership (on backorder for over a yr+ as of know) just the 3  lights with the cruise control inop is the worst part of this...LOL,,, like you still loving my journey shame they discontinued it....
 

Well, it finally happened - I hit the 100k mark on my girl. After 8 years of ownership and many long trips, I am still happy with my DJ. She gets me where I need to be and runs as smooth as the day I brought her home. Other than a sensor going out at the 90k mark, I've just had to do regular maintenance. I have also completed the 100k mile service, which was a bit pricey but well worth it. Here's to another 100k with no major issues...?

I know mine is definitely an issue currently but I only hear it when I turn the wheel 

schalid when you replaced your struts did you use the complete strut or just the cartage that goes inside the spring,,,,journeys have been said that the upper strut bushing /bearings have been found to be the problem of the  noise/clunks that mostly journeys owners complain about,,( me as well)

Hello, I have a 2015 Dodge Journey AVP. My car is making a rattling sound. Could it be the motor mounts? I'm going to get it looked at.

I recently had a similar experience with my 2011.  I replaced the control arms, inner and outer tie rods, sway bar links and ball joint boots.  After the replacement I had a lot more noise that before, like clunking from both sides of the front end when changing direction, starting/stopping quickly, and going over large bumps.
 
Part of the problem was the new sway bar links.  They were junk.  I replaced them with a more reputable brand and it solved the noise while going over bumps.  But I still had the clunking when changing direction and starting/stopping quickly.
 
I was watching a YouTube video about the control arm replacement and the guy on the video used a jack to raise the suspension to approximately ride height before he tightened down the control arm bolts.  When I did mine, I tightened everything down with the vehicle in the air and the front suspension down completely (not at ride height).  I jacked it up, used another jack to get the suspension into approximate ride position, loosened and re-tightened the control arm bolts at ride height.  All of the clunking went away, and now my front end is completely silent.  I'm still not sure why this worked, but it did for me.
 

The kid in me wants to add remote start but realistically I would never use it. ? ? ? 

Filter in the coolant line makes sense but I can see someone installing it and NEVER checking it ever and it then creates a clogg after years of neglect and then possibly creating another point of failure.