John/Horace

It's always hard to know for sure with a cell phone video, but it sounds like it could be the rocker arm tick.  Get yourself one of these cheap mechanics stethoscopes and touch it to both the front and rear valve covers the next time you hear it ticking.  If it's a rocker arm then you will hear a noticeable difference between the two valve covers.
https://www.harborfreight.com/mechanics-stethoscope-63691.html
 
If you catch it early enough, the camshaft can often be saved.  There's also a cheap way to fix it and an expensive way.  You might want to see this thread: 
 

I assume that you're talking about the 3.6 engine.  I've done rockers myself a couple of times on different vehicles with this same engine.  I maintain my vehicles too, regular oil changes, etc... so it's a frustrating issue that seems unavoidable in some cases.  It's not a terribly tough job if you're mechanically-inclined.  The big reason for the expensive quotes is that the service manual, and associated hours for the job in the service manual include the removal of the camshafts.  It is absolutely possible to replace all the rockers WITHOUT removing the camshafts if the camshafts are not damaged by the faulty rocker(s).  There are some YouTube videos that show how to do this.  I'm not a professional mechanic, and I can replace all 12 rockers in a single cylinder head in about 2 hours myself.  If you don't want to do this yourself, then I'd search for a mechanic who knows how to do the job without removing the camshafts.

The last post has to be some kind of AI robot crap. It completely ignores the mention of $2k + expensive rattling top  end engine problem. There is no testament to good maint and reliability  bla bla bla.  I’m sure owner is not happy at all at only 100k mikes for this type of expense. 
To actually answer his question, which johanbrandon clearly didn’t. There are a few docuemented cases of this with the 3.6 engine, on this site, but it is not a commmon issue at all, especially at your low milage.  I would try switching to a Mopar filter and new top grade oil immediately, see if sound changes.  Maybe even high milage 5W30 oil considering your location. They don’t usually just start loud ticking. Top end wear slowly increases and sound level follows.
 

Works thanks, very helpful link !!

mine just done this but was stuck in the heat mode, drop the glove box door and then push the black fabric cover so you can see the blend doors there is one to the left side of the opening  which controls the different levels ( defrost floor and regular vents) of the air is sent ,the one closest to it on the right, is the one causing your trouble if you move the passenger side temp up and down it should be moving I just tapped on mine and it then started working and haven't caused me no more trouble now there is another one on the right side of the air filter don't know what that controls............
 

The one on the right side of the cabin filter is the recirculate actautor.That's the one that causes fogging when it gets stuck in recirculate mode.

It allows in outside air. When car is turned off it will try to cycle to open position, vent interior moisture. When it’s open you can see outside light coming in threw dash filter. Removing filter helps seeing if it’s stuck closed. People often poke  it open to temporarily fix problem.  Changing it is an awkward job even with glove box door dropped down.
 
 

With 3/4” drive you can get a a few foot long pipe and add it to the breaker bar. Remove nut with hub cap off and wheel on the ground if possible. Safer and weight of car helps. Counter clock wise to loosen.
 
Even heat from a torch helps with seized threads.  Impact gun which vibrate when used is always best, but not essential.
Its only torqued at 100 ft pounds;  removing rust on exposed threads with wire brush will prevent damage on nut threads. People resuse the old nuts but technically they are suppose to be replaced on most vehicles after removal. Dealers do.

Journey has 130,000km

Thank you! We were able to remove the damaged wiper arm and replace with a new one from the Dodge dealer. We couldn't repair the damaged one. Side note: Bought a brand new blade for rear window and was sold something that doesn't fit, found an easy cheap replacement on Amazon! 

Might as well follow up on this. Got a new vent put on the differential and that solved the oil leak. Still have not replaced the viscous coupler, but it seems to have been working alright

The comments are the best part. They range from “needs 350 D cells not included ….to please crash test…immediately.
 
 
https://jalopnik.com/russia-has-new-ev-thats-totally-going-to-destroy-tesla-1851117732w
 
 
 
 
 

The so called "mechanic" needs to reinstall whatever he took out and then see if being able to shift{I GUESS you mean won't come out of PARK} returns. 
A VERY COMMON battery drain problem with your daughters year is from a misaligned glove box light switch. There are many posts of this found in the forum here. IF you open the glove box and manually with a finger can turn the light off, that does NOT mean the glove box door is able to do the same and not moving the switch enough to turn off the light.
   IF that is not the problem, then yes member jkeaton is correct and probably best done by a competent auto tech as sight unseen to the forum here that there are SO MANY POSSIBILITIES that we could only guess to the actual problem.

also the blue tooth module has been a known parasitic draw as well,try disconnecting that as well

Viscous coupling is not rebuildable. Rear end or differential is now toast. Running out of oil not like running out of gas.
Side seals where c/v shaft ps go into rear diff are a common failure. Oil goes low and internals get wrecked.
A used rear diff from auto wreckers is only cost effective option.  Removing rear drive shaft temporarily should allow you to still use car until parts found.
 
Continuing to drive car as is will probably destroy front transfer case as well.Adding thousands to get back awd ability.
 
Wheel bearings are pretty good on Journeys. Only one of 4 has been changed on wife’s RT with over 150k miles. 

Cool work going on. Glass matt  on the air tank is a nice touch. I still think a ludicrously loud air horn is needed to match the sound system. Not many people have the compressed air to run one properly  Might score some points at a competition.  Cheers.

Did you ever get this done?
 
 

Mmm looks like the 3.6 also has decoupler clutch, all the units for sale list the feature. I used a dealer rebuild on our 3.6 so installed a complete unit a few years ago. It stopped charging  but no whining noise.   Coupler is used to save energy apparently.  Cost is around $130 ish for just coupler, so whole unit is probably better option. Made in Canada…probably why it failed.?
 

The 2.4 motor is the only one that employs a decoupler pulley on the alternator, and often the cause of noise around 80-100k mile vehicles. Some left unattended to will fail completely and allow no charging ability of the alternator.
Glad it worked out for you!

You might get lucky if it was just the stuck  position affecting solenoid. Hatches are awkward to take apart I find.
 
The little black square camouflaged lock button is on the left side of hatch overhang Close to license plate lights. I think I found it a year after owning car. Pretty sure on all journeys have it. It’s like pressing chrome buttton on front doors, should unlock or lock car if fob is in pocket  I believe. 
 

 
 
 
 
 

You might get lucky if it was just the stuck  position affecting solenoid. Hatches are awkward to take apart I find.
 
The little black square camouflaged lock button is on the left side of hatch overhang Close to license plate lights. I think I found it a year after owning car. Pretty sure on all journeys have it. It’s like pressing chrome buttton on front doors, should unlock or lock car if fob is in pocket  I believe. 
 

 
 
 
 
 

You might get lucky if it was just the stuck  position affecting solenoid. Hatches are awkward to take apart I find.
 
The little black square camouflaged lock button is on the left side of hatch overhang Close to license plate lights. I think I found it a year after owning car. Pretty sure on all journeys have it. It’s like pressing chrome buttton on front doors, should unlock or lock car if fob is in pocket  I believe. 
 

 
 
 
 
 

The spring return in the latch handle gets really rusty. I have to constantly spray ours to keep handle free.  The hatch is not metal so it’s fine, no rust. Spring should have been galvanized or proper plating.  Car was professionally sprayed by a company,  Rust Check more than once. But they seem to miss some items.
 
My wife’s 2014 RT outside  button on the hatch won’t trigger unlock anymore. So either main passive entry or key fob has to unlock hatch. I also see a dance with the dreaded broken wire in rubber boot coming soon. Older 2012 Journey daughter in law has is still fine for hatch function.  But oil pan has a pin hole leak (even though repainted ). Older high milage cars are an ongoing battle in the rust belt. My garage not heated, but at least no wind.

Not really. Like OP said,  scanning is only way to know for sure.  The tpms have a built in lithium battery that gets weak over time/miles.  Some  times the weaker battery will be strong enough to get picked up if it’s moved closer to receiver to pick up radio frequency output signal.  Antenna is in lower dash or A pillar I think,  shouldn’t have seen glycol.  Your failure may have just been a coincidence when oil cooler puked.
 
With balancing cost etc people often opt for new sensors when installing new tires. Lots of aftermarket cheap sensors from Rockauto etc.   Some people pop the bead and pull through a new sensor without removing tire or balancing.

Not really. Like OP said,  scanning is only way to know for sure.  The tpms have a built in lithium battery that gets weak over time/miles.  Some  times the weaker battery will be strong enough to get picked up if it’s moved closer to receiver to pick up radio frequency output signal.  Antenna is in lower dash or A pillar I think,  shouldn’t have seen glycol.  Your failure may have just been a coincidence when oil cooler puked.
 
With balancing cost etc people often opt for new sensors when installing new tires. Lots of aftermarket cheap sensors from Rockauto etc.   Some people pop the bead and pull through a new sensor without removing tire or balancing.