John/Horace

In the salt belt, stuff like wheel bearings can be a bit of a bear. Even a Journey that was rust check sprayed 3-4 times like this one.  If you are changing a loud bearing hub on an awd model. You can leave c/v shaft in place fairly easily if you have access to a sliding hammer. If diff lip seals aren’t leaking it’s easier/faster to not disturb things. Mine were already changed few years ago.
Original bearing had 250k kms  or 155k miles, not bad really for the crappy roads vehicle was driven on.
 
 

 


 

The TIPM and body ground control module BCM have a lot of things running through them. 
Without a schematic and ability to read them  it can be tricky to find this kind of fault.
 
Most  common cause of overnight dead battery from parasitic load on Journeys. Is the blue tooth module buried in the dash.  Very pricy to buy and hard to get at to change. People pull the fuse in the passenger side kick fuse panel  as short term fix. Hand free module fuse so I think called HFM fuse. F131 it’s 10 amp.
 
There is another fuse in this panel that has constant power and it controls hvac switches maybe time delay on radio off function. Try pulling it by itself with the battery still hooked up (leave it out for 5 mins, then back).  Maybe  it will help synch things; long shot really. Fuse  F109. The cluster itself is fed from F108, make sure it’s not blown while you are in there.
Get a magnifying glass to read fuse look up table.😀
 
 

 
 

As soon as you cross cables and try to jump the damage is sometimes hidden blown fusible links and also the TIPM could have taken a hit
Seems like jumper cables do more harm than good in modern vehicles....good luck

I put it in my wife's 2017 today.  The radio was $230 for a 4g 8core android 13 one.  They are universal android radios with canbus functions built in.  They are not specifically for a particular car but they put them in specific dash kits to fit a variety of vehicles. So you have to dig into settings that aren't obvious to figure out how to get things like the AC and the controls to work.  I made a video of it.  Ignore my shakiness and nasally voice. lol.  I lost my nostrils fighting as a kid. 
 
I'd assume most of the ones on Amazon would be the same but I wanted the one I found on eBay to get a newer android version.  In my experience they don't ever get updated so getting 13 over say 10 is a big deal.
 
I have a older one, 8 or so, in my Challenger SRT8.  It is good and has worked perfect.  However, this one I installed in the wife's car makes me a bit jealous.  I'm definitely going to have to upgrade my F150 now to keep up.

AC controls work 100%.  Heated seats and all that too if you have it.  Lots of things you can activate and deactivate outside of what the factory radio had I think.  It came with adapters for everything like the factory backup camera and stuff if you have that.  Mine was a stripped down version.  It came with a backup camera.  It retains the factory USB.  You have to use the plugs on the CD player and the Radio - I didn't realize this initially and didn't get why I didn't have power til I realized that the the plug with all the black wires was canbus only and not radio wires per say.
 
It came with the canbus box and all of that.  Everything was included.  The only wires that don't get used in the dash are the HSD cable(white with purple on it) that runs between the CD player and Radio in the factory setup.  It isn't necessary as it only runs between them though.
 
Well, here is the video.  I have to pop it back off to install the backup camera(she had to go somewhere) in the next couple days so I could take pictures of whatever if anyone is interested or needs help on what is going on behind the scenes.
 
This is one of the first videos I've ever made and it broke up in the middle.  I had to splice it together, so it is the first video I've ever edited too.  I'm not a professional, go easy. lol.
 
Here is the video.  I'd appreciate a like, comment, or whatever if you watch it.  I had a real tough time finding information on switching the radio out and I found little in the way of information.  Let me know if you decide to install one based on my experience.
 
If there is interest I'll do a walkthrough of the entire install when I pop it off to install the backup camera.  Using a tripod or anti-shake filtering and a better view of the screen to not make it so shaky and not zoomed in.
 
I had to put it on Youtube because it was more than 10mb. 
 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hjrhdv75w5I&feature=youtu.be
 

Yes those tires thru WM seem like the way to go for us.
As for the filter/cooler, I can't offer much other than keep a check on them regularly. The '11;s {my son's} has 240k miles on it and as far as I know is ORIGINAL with no leaks yet. The '14 got an all aluminum unit to keep the filter proper to the year of car, the motor it has was from an '11, 2.5 years now and no problems with 20k miles.
MY hypothesis on the '13 starting to leak is that it was getting weak and having to use a breaker bar to get the cap off "tweaked" it enough for the mounting seals to start to leak. When I go pick up the car, I will get a chance to look over the old one for possible cracking.
SOMEBODY had really over tightened the cap{not me or my friend}, but possibly his young apprentice helper, I don't seek blame on anyone, those with these motors know this weak link design.

Bad ball joints eat tires fast, as you know. We lost one real early on the RT, around 60k miles.  Good to do before new rubber goes on car. My all weather tires are made by Cooper, US made I believe. I think you get about 80%  of the stated tire life with this style tire.  Not as good handling as top shelf snows, but noticeably better than regular all season tires. With snow symbol insurance companies that give discount for snow tires recognize them as snows.

Spring car maint,  just did winters to summers swap and now have parts on order. Back wheel bearings started to howl  two months ago.  At around 249kms or 155 miles, not that bad for original bearings really. Only one front original bearing left.
Waiting for rockauto  parts now. One front outer tie rod also needs changing, will do both. This vehicle will go to my daughter eventually so keeping up the maint. 
 
Even on a new car I find the low profile 19” tires run firmer but handle better. Our snows are 17” Dunlop tires so I have experienced the difference.  The  look of the alum spoke 19” rims is also nicer …but costly.  You could explore the all weather (mtn snow flake symbol) tires most companies sell now. My pickup has them so you run them all year. Not quite as good a winter and slightly more money. Only one set of rims/Tpms sensors is also nice.

Spring car maint,  just did winters to summers swap and now have parts on order. Back wheel bearings started to howl  two months ago.  At around 249kms or 155 miles, not that bad for original bearings really. Only one front original bearing left.
Waiting for rockauto  parts now. One front outer tie rod also needs changing, will do both. This vehicle will go to my daughter eventually so keeping up the maint. 
 
Even on a new car I find the low profile 19” tires run firmer but handle better. Our snows are 17” Dunlop tires so I have experienced the difference.  The  look of the alum spoke 19” rims is also nicer …but costly.  You could explore the all weather (mtn snow flake symbol) tires most companies sell now. My pickup has them so you run them all year. Not quite as good a winter and slightly more money. Only one set of rims/Tpms sensors is also nice.

I can see changing the plugs but why mess with injectors and coil packs for no reason especially if they were OEM's to aftermarket?

Great to hear all is well again, but YES a pretty hefty hit to the bank account all the same. And yes, having capable friends or trusted shop other than DEALERS can help greatly on costs. Also can't rule out part of costs due to the WONDERFUL ECONOMY we ALL are currently dealing with.

The last post has to be some kind of AI robot crap. It completely ignores the mention of $2k + expensive rattling top  end engine problem. There is no testament to good maint and reliability  bla bla bla.  I’m sure owner is not happy at all at only 100k mikes for this type of expense. 
To actually answer his question, which johanbrandon clearly didn’t. There are a few docuemented cases of this with the 3.6 engine, on this site, but it is not a commmon issue at all, especially at your low milage.  I would try switching to a Mopar filter and new top grade oil immediately, see if sound changes.  Maybe even high milage 5W30 oil considering your location. They don’t usually just start loud ticking. Top end wear slowly increases and sound level follows.
 

https://www.aar.org/issue/freight-rail-operational-regulation/
 
Too much at stake with only one engineer humanoid. I hope Robo-Johan not insulted.😎
Marine navigation pilot and tugs the next billion dollar question. Or better backup systems. Although the people involved did well in the minutes they had.

Without a scanner, the only way to erase and put computer into a relearn by driving mode is to disconnect the battery for a period of some time{folks offer varying amount} of 10 to 15 minutes.
BUT, a 3.5 timing belt motor with an interference fit design...has the TIMING BELT ever been replaced? Your codes COULD be from a stretched or jumped tooth timing belt. Factory recommends 7yr 90k mile replacement, that most folks DON'T DO and pay the price later when the belt jumps time or BREAKS.

You were told timing belt was changed? Neither the 2.4 nor the 3.6 have a belt, it’s a chain.
Very involved  and expensive repair. If not done properly it could run rough. Or was it the surpentine belt that drives alternator pwr steering etc. 
Always start with checking for codes when diagnosing.

You were told timing belt was changed? Neither the 2.4 nor the 3.6 have a belt, it’s a chain.
Very involved  and expensive repair. If not done properly it could run rough. Or was it the surpentine belt that drives alternator pwr steering etc. 
Always start with checking for codes when diagnosing.

You were told timing belt was changed? Neither the 2.4 nor the 3.6 have a belt, it’s a chain.
Very involved  and expensive repair. If not done properly it could run rough. Or was it the surpentine belt that drives alternator pwr steering etc. 
Always start with checking for codes when diagnosing.

What ones quit high or low beams/ all four? Does the car have automatic headlights? Any recent work on the front end or swapped in LED bulbs?
I've got 3 DJ's and only had a singular low beam bulb quit and it was the bulb.

Yeah he is very good and funny. Hi point ….liberal douching of Fluid Film on positive needed or ….it’s good enough for the girls we run with. Tee hee hee.  Or most of this plastic stuff is broken by the quick lube guys by the time these cars get to us.  
I recently changed battery on 2017 Ford Fusion, not any where near as bad as turbo Escape. The young guys need to take a stab at some of these repairs, builds character.
 
Robo-johan  comments like usual, a non informational  scatalogical load.

Yeah he is very good and funny. Hi point ….liberal douching of Fluid Film on positive needed or ….it’s good enough for the girls we run with. Tee hee hee.  Or most of this plastic stuff is broken by the quick lube guys by the time these cars get to us.  
I recently changed battery on 2017 Ford Fusion, not any where near as bad as turbo Escape. The young guys need to take a stab at some of these repairs, builds character.
 
Robo-johan  comments like usual, a non informational  scatalogical load.

Great news if it’s running and no limp mode issues.

Not to be the bearer of bad news, but….The 3.5 v6 is a timing belt interference engine, unfortunately. Usually by 100k the belt and idlers should be replaced. Most people push it quite a bit farther.
Not a typical diy job, If it  jumps or breaks, the engine is usually toast. If it’s not done you will need to start investigating getting it done. Labor part can be several hours for a mechanic, water pump change also makes sense at same time since it’s behind the timing covers. 

Very little snow in Niagara area on this side of border. Two or three dumps so far, largest about 4 inches that melted in 4 days.
I’ve been keeping the salt/dirt off the Journey, several hand hose washes on warmer days during the winter. 

Starting to get some minor rust spots on driver front fender and above windshield. Stone chips I think. Body over all holding up pretty good for milage and year.

Here was my problem a new harness fixed all my issues

To transfer ownership vehicle needs to be certified by the dealer he mentioned. Everything has to work , for 36 days I believe.
Just bring it back.
 
DTR Wont come on if parking brake used and remote start is used.  Could check front yellow signal bulbs. They are two filament bulbs (like 1157 brake light)  with direction signal flash and running light on separate filaments. But are yellow coloured 1157.
Some cars use main head light bulbs on lower power feed via a separate DTR module. Journey doesn’t.

ALFAOBD can be used to turn on day time running lights feature in the ecm.  Lots of U.S. guys have done it as an extra safety item. Feature not on dash display controls, or at least not on my 2014 or daughter in laws 2012.

To transfer ownership vehicle needs to be certified by the dealer he mentioned. Everything has to work , for 36 days I believe.
Just bring it back.
 
DTR Wont come on if parking brake used and remote start is used.  Could check front yellow signal bulbs. They are two filament bulbs (like 1157 brake light)  with direction signal flash and running light on separate filaments. But are yellow coloured 1157.
Some cars use main head light bulbs on lower power feed via a separate DTR module. Journey doesn’t.

ALFAOBD can be used to turn on day time running lights feature in the ecm.  Lots of U.S. guys have done it as an extra safety item. Feature not on dash display controls, or at least not on my 2014 or daughter in laws 2012.

To transfer ownership vehicle needs to be certified by the dealer he mentioned. Everything has to work , for 36 days I believe.
Just bring it back.
 
DTR Wont come on if parking brake used and remote start is used.  Could check front yellow signal bulbs. They are two filament bulbs (like 1157 brake light)  with direction signal flash and running light on separate filaments. But are yellow coloured 1157.
Some cars use main head light bulbs on lower power feed via a separate DTR module. Journey doesn’t.

ALFAOBD can be used to turn on day time running lights feature in the ecm.  Lots of U.S. guys have done it as an extra safety item. Feature not on dash display controls, or at least not on my 2014 or daughter in laws 2012.