John/Horace

Jumping relay bypasses safety items in circuit. Key switch security, transmission range selector. If it's clicking starter is getting power. If you tap starter with rubber mallet it will probably start. Bad solenoid contacts on starter. Just coincidence relay jumping worked,

If the glycol is orange, it's the newer oat glycol. There are aftermarket companies that make their version of Chysler OEM glycol. As you know, stay with correct mix. Drive the car locally for a few days before trip, after the work is done, that's a lot of stuff to take apart. Scan for codes before starting your work. Oil cooler swap is messy, have lots of rags and cardboard around. I also changed plugs at the same time as cooler. Should use a set of lower intake manifold gaskets, don't want to have to take apart a second time.

It's not related to problem. Could be for option your car doesnt have. Have you tried starting car with gas cap loose and no pressure in tank. Loose cap will cause a mil light, but not one that causes a no start. Is engine turning over but just not catching. If so hold pedal to floor and try again.

It's a fuel tank pressure code. System shouldn't pressurize like that if cannister etc working. Purge valve under hood is usually culprit, not expensive. Could unhook cannister vac hoses and see if it runs without pressurizing. Mil light will be on, but car should still run. Fumes accumulate in charcoal cannister and get sucked into engine during drive cycle. Yours not working properly. Loosening gas cap might also help you start car and drive to repair shop.

Throwing parts at it getting expensive and not working. Write down what has been done and bring to a recommended tec with your list. I bought a used Jeep that had rich condition and O2 sensors changed more than once. Signal from upstream sensor was not getting to ECM computer. Two feet of wire harness replaced. ECM had 60 pins and one of them wasn't getting a 1 volt signal. No melted wires or obvious signs of problem. Some issues can be tricky to nail down .

Canbus makes adding stuff to car a little harder now. May not just be a voltage thing. if you are using the factory radio screen you might need alpaobd program to activate it. Or pay dealer to program vehicle for back up camera activation.

Welcome to forum. If the battery gets really low there can be weird electrical stuff going on. There are models of Journey with Diesel engine and clutch. Software probably shared across models. Put it on a battery charger or boost car with cables. Make sure no dome lights left on etc.

Welcome to the forum. Approx mileage and engine in vehicle useful for trouble shooting. The clicking is the solenoid on the side of the starter. If it started without a boost by triple A then it's not likely battery. Could put rubber mallet in the car. Next no start, try few taps on side of starter. If it then starts it is probably worn solenoid contacts and you will need starter replaced. Easy on the 2.4 engine, crappy on the 3.6.

Welcome to forum, great first post.

Dealer uses your vin for parts look up. Since your car wasn't built with the handles, it won't show up in a search. They will have to do a manual search, making odds of getting wrong parts a lot higher. Ushally lots of whinnying as well.

Try the upull section of an auto recycler. You can see how it comes out, measure location of sheet metal bracket where the inserts go into. Pull inserts and hardware from the wrecker car. Good pic on this link of the cut out locations etc. I don't think the side curtain airbags are an issue. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,2014,journey,3.6l+v6,3300354,interior,headliner,14287

These guys hpseem to have the most accurate parts lists and they sell OEM as well. I don't work for them. Have caught other parts stores checking their site as a cross reference. ? https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,2015,journey,3.6l+v6,3309784,brake+&+wheel+hub,abs+wheel+speed+sensor,1912

Comes out with first a 90 degree index twist motion, then a slight pull. I don't incourage throwing parts at cars, but this can be a wear item on 3.6. Plugs are are due as well.

Yeah no maf only MAP sensor, easy 5 minute change. Free advice worth everything you pay for it. ? https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,2012,journey,3.6l+v6,3015568,exhaust+&+emission,manifold+pressure+(map)+sensor,11207

I think I only paid dealer $30 for the correct filter. It's an important filter. Approx 5 quarts with a filter change pan drop. Can use a suction pump through dipstick with a hose and get about 4 quarts out. Filter change better.

My manual says 75W90 some where. The dealer only sells synthetic 75W90. Any good brand oil is fine, syn is better. I have used both dealer and Lucus brand syn. Rear is 900 ml approx and rdu is around 800, so almost a quart in each. Could buy a jug and use it for two changes, large jugs much cheaper. I would do tranny ATF+4 now as well, it's a fairly cheap semi synthetic oil.

You said carb cleaner, I hope you meant fuel injection compatible cleaner. Carb cleaner kinda harsh, injection seals don't like it. If it fouls again, some shops have a injection cleaning set up called Motovac or something similar. They unhook engine fuel line and run car on a concentrated cleaner for 10 mins. Works well. The vvt have sensors with screens in them. You might get cam codes from the carbon sludge. The cat could be a mess too.

Thanks for the info. Curious, how many miles when the problem started. The part is changed with tranny still in vehicle, correct. New gasket on casing or tube sealant. Thanks.

Welcome to the forum. Cool diy. You could add a few small strips of metal or aluminum with rivets to reinforce the corner of support where slots are. In case there is flexing. I've had some close calls with deer, just lucky I haven't made contact yet. Good thing airbags didn't trigger with the deer hit.

I don’t think it’s the transfer case. https://www.moparpartscanada.ca/oem-parts/mopar-transfer-case-rl071706aa?c=Zz10cmFuc2Zlci1jYXNlJnM9dHJhbnNmZXItY2FzZSZsPTEmbj1TZWFyY2ggUmVzdWx0cyZhPWRvZGdlJm89am91cm5leSZ5PTIwMTAmdD1yLXQmZT0zLTVsLXY2LWdhcw%3D%3D Front drive shafts come out of the transaxle part of transmission. Unfortunately I think you will need new tranny if the aluminum casing is cracked. . Could try reman or wrecker units with lower miles, LKQ useful. Could be just a blown c/v shaft which took out lip seal on side of tranny and caused leak. Maybe fixable and no new tranny if your lucky. Don’t drive it further, tow it.

I had to try and help...In a hemi owner. 2015 Ram.

A little early for the plugs, you will get codes if they are malfunctioning. At a 100k miles I only had 10 thou of wear on electrodes. Was-doing oil cooler replacement so plugs changed too. Fluids more important, pricier repair if a break down. Upstream O2 does fuel trim rich/lean, it’s even early for that, but gas is expensive and that might improve fuel economy slightly, plugs wouldn’t. My 2 cents.

Codes first. MAP sensor maybe.

Thanks for the info, helpful for the site. Cars can do weird things and make trouble shooting tricky at the best of times. If you remove intake, new rear plugs might be a good idea if they are close to being due. Most of work done at that point. Random horn mmm. Is the airbag light showing on dash, is there a drivers side code for airbag. Horn often shares clockspring wire harness. Switch mechanism in steering possibly.

It’s possible, dealer electrical Tec would know for sure. I think ecm more likely, it even has the vin number programmed in. I do know it’s a combination of mileage and time and driving load characteristics. I’ve had the monitoring on more than one vehicle, the 2015 Ram pick up system seems not too bad compared to others. I think one of the defaults is 6 months maximum time between oil changes on some monitor systems, which I don’t really agree with when using full synthetic. Coil pad and all maint listed including oil changes, like someone mentioned, is what I do. I have read on other forums that the system is calibrated on the recommended factory oil. My older F150 specs were semi-synthetic so that is how they extended cycle a little longer. There is nothing wrong with just basic blended oil and shorter changes IMO. I only use expensive synthetic when it’s in sale. Costco has their own brand of syn that is always a good price, BITOG says it’s not bad. Being old school...and old, I can’t bring my self to going more than 6-7k miles on oil, even full syn.