John/Horace

The grinding rubbing sounds concern me. Although it might turn over afterwards, I hope timing belt has not jumped. Piston can bend valves and kill cylinder head on interference engines. Usually 100k or 5 yrs old for belt change interval. If it’s just a starting with key issue. When starter is back in,, jumper the two contacts on starter, I think 85 and 87. They bypass key switch , security,Park neutral switch etc. If it turns over it’s one of by passed items. Could also try starting in neutral.

Should be codes for torque converter etc that indicate major transmission problems. No just engine and wheel sensor lights and codes. If no warranty, second option even if tow involved.My 3 cents.

Had a 1969 rag top for three weeks that I flipped for 300% more money offer. I was in college and needed the cash. Top needed replacing any way. Also a 1971 Westphalia for a little while as well. Duel Sollex carbs, what a bear to set up. Bettle total was 5, I converted a 3 speed semi automatic to a regular 4 speed std over a thanksgiving long weekend. It leaked so much fluid I was given orders by dad to ditch it or fix it. Semi auto parts were too scarce. I still prefer metric cars because it’s what I started on first. Oh yeah the thing, never even sat in one, very cool for its time.

In North America. From wiki, cut and pasted, a Mitsubishi 2.7 engine I believe. Map versus maf sensor might matter for engine management controls. Auto wrecker/recycler guys usually have a good handle of this capability. Engine Gasoline: 2.4 L World I4 2.7 L LH V6 3.5 L EGF V6[3] 3.6 L Pentastar V6 Diesel: 2.0 L VW TDI I4 2.0 L MultiJet II I4 Transmission 4-speed Ultradrive 40TESautomatic 5-speed Magna T355 manual 6-speed Aisin BG6 manual 6-speed Fiat C635 manual 6-speed Getrag Mps6 DCTautomatic 6-speed Ultradrive 62TEautomat

My first car was a very beat up 1969 beetle. I rolled the car with door open and jumped in and dumped clutch to manually start it several times. The trick was to not do a Flinstone and drive over your self with your own car. Pull start would have been safer, didn’t know it existed. Beetle engine exhaust was the trickiest thing to work on. Four wrenches you could disassemble the whole car I think.

With plug change it’s safer to change these gaskets out. They get compressed and don’t always seal as well on reuse, not pricy. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,2018,journey,3.6l+v6,3440326,engine,intake+manifold+gasket,5424 If changing them out, good opportunity to do a compression test on #2. Remove fuel pump relay and proper test is all plugs removed. To do accurately can be finicky if you haven’t done one before. I hope it’s not a valve/cylinder head issue, but it’s possible. Injectors seldom go in my experience, clicking is good..means energizing so signal from ecm is getting there. The two upstream O2 sensors are critical for fuel mix and affect drive ability and fuel economy. Down stream confirm cats are working properly, so more emissions related. Misfire from unburnt fuel could cause this code. Some people automatically change upstream as a wear item at around 100k without waiting for failure codes. Fuel savings add up quick. NTK are same as oem sensor. I would confirm compression and swap intake gaskets first and see if goes away. Your ☎️.

Even grinding off paint around the grounds to bare metal, then a light coat of dielectric grease can help. Salt belt cars have more issues with this. On copper connection, clean means shiny bare metal. Scratch the point of meter probes on surface of remote contacts under hood. If functioning right there is a small loss from top battery post, approx 0.3 volts, not 9. Load test battery in car as well. Need at least 300 cranking amps to properly start, 12.5 volts only useful with amperage as well.

Who changed the plugs. We’re the intake manifold gaskets replaced during the sequence. Extra air coming in from bad gasket can cause a code like this. It’s low mileage, but gasket can get pinched or damaged. A compression test would be useful on this cylinder. Wet test and leak down. Valve seat issue etc can cause misfire. injector firing needs a node light, although screw driver against housing and listening for clicking from activation can be done.

The diesel Journey never made it to this side of the North Atlantic. So none of us have ever even seen one. That 2.0 common rail diesel was used in multiple FCA vehicles, so I wouldn’t restrict my info search to just Journeys. Cheers good luck.

Canadian Journey come with factory block heater. Using a timer they are a bit more cost/environmentally friendly for fast warm up in extreme cold. But you need 120 outlet access and yeah not as convenient. Running engine for minute or two is better for oil lubricated mechanical component live span. The switch under hood could be jumpered with a piece of wire temporarily to see if it’s the problem source. Wire harness feed from switch needs to send proper value signal. Not an expensive item, easy diy fix.

Any follow up. Did you locate used ptu or keep driving as a 2 wheel drive only.

Congratulations….very good pun. I have had decent luck with Asian vehicles in general. At least your resale is up a lot with this market. Could you give a rough break down of the maint you have done on the two vehicles. Just general info for site. Cheers good luck with purchase.

Canada never sold diesel Journey as far as I know. Tire sealant called slime is bright green. Brake fluid is colour of clean oil, slight brown. Power steering is usually light brown or red if ATF+4 is being used and fresh. Transmission fluid used in newer Stellantis vehicle ZF transmissions is bright green and shows up with UV light. No Journey vehicle should use this fluid. Where did the fluid come from, location might be good clue.

Fuse 131 in panel.

Blue tooth module bad (staying on) is most common over night drain. Pull that fuse first, search there are post's on site about that. I think 14.7 slightly high, but cheap hand held multi meters are not always super accurate. Find parasitic drain issue first.

Welcome to the site. The voltage regulator is integrated into the alternator. So the new/rebuilt alternator would have changed it probably. How much voltage was old alternator putting out? Battery can take over charging for a short time, I wouldn’t change it yet unless it’s not holding a charge. A bad alternator can cause a battery to go flat by itself. But more likely there is something drawing power over night. You could remove one fuse at a time and see if amperage draw can be isolated to one circuit only. Top of fuse has two small points to measure power on circuit as well. Meter needs to be set to milli amp setting, internal meter fuse usually 10 amps and easy to zap. If you remove battery post and carefully measure amp draw for whole system it should be approx 100 mill amps after 15 mins sitting.

You must have seen this posting about heater core issues. Heater core is same on all journeys I think. Maybe take another run at air removal. As you know swapping core awkward and nasty. Going with 17” rims is good idea, 19” kinda pricy tires.

Also confirm alternator output. Although 14.4 sounds good at idle. You can do a simple quick load test yourself. You need to turn on a few high draw accessories and watch voltage drop with car running. Should stay over 13.7 ish if alternator is good. Scratch the probes a little on those remote battery points to get a good connection. As already mentioned, make sure no signs of greenish corrosion on any of battery connections.

Just curious, did repair bill state BCM body (ground) control module was replaced. Glad is working so far.

If you pay $55 for battery report. It should state cranking amp capacity of battery from a load test. When compared to a new battery spec it gives you an idea of wear on battery. Two years is not old for a battery IMO. But if abused and run flat multiple times, it could have lost capacity. Amp on radio draws a lot of power. Just use a rechargeable blue tooth speaker if you sit in car for long periods. AGM style battery recharge quicker and can sit without losing charge as much, without load. . More money but worth considering. If you are a car owner, having a battery charger is often useful.

Metal shavings in the ptu oil was mentioned. Could check for it first with dump and fill, refill through vent tube easiest. Just under a quart of 75w90 oil in unit. Removing drive shaft might take load off gear box, also prove noise source. People have driven without shaft temporarily in two wheel drive. Dump rear diff oil as well and make sure it’s ok before fixing front ptu. Normal for some fur on drain plug magnet, but no large metal shavings.

If it’s the 6 speed 62te tranny it’s at # 114-116 section on link. Lots of annoying adverts. It’s 40 inch pounds for filter fasteners, 53 for pan bolts. No 2.7 engine sold over here, but tranny could be the same. https://cardiagn.com/2009-15-journey-62te-service-information/

Welcome to forum, Sounds like a design flaw, nice you figured it out. This problem has come a lot of times of this forum. With the newer glycols being used now; plugged cooling systems are pretty rare now I think. The Chrysler orange fluid looked like new when I changed it during a pump/thermostat housing change (turned out to be bad pump gasket, not pump bearing) at 150k Kms. I assume ph and additives are probably not right so new stuff was used. There was no signs of scale or deposits anywhere in system. Mixing wrong glycols….can make a mess though.