aviator79

Above I posted: "So removing power allows it to the out and slip 100%" That was clearly incorrect but by unplug made it basically Fwd only and stopped clunk. So my new used one does not have any resistance (other than bearings) when unbolted from rear diff but I'm pretty sure that does NOT indicates it is bad. In fact I installed and its been working fine. Now if hooked to rear diff and then sure, should not spin freely. So I can see video how shows good one is stiff but maybe that is because the magnet has not fully released?...idk. I have not disassemble one so im not sure if dry or filled with fluid but here is video showing one that was disassembled and shows that it does have a magnet: https://m.facebook.com/Plaiziers-Auto-Service-Ltd-413750198671594/videos/dodge-journey-rear-diff-viscous-coupler-whats-inside/1647582901954978/ When I removed bad one a bunch of fluid did dump but was in outer casing. Where came from idk. I checked and rear diff full. To remove, remove three bolts that go through rubber damper into VC (15mm). There are metal inserts/spacers that protrude into flange on VC and need to pop out. Doing this on jack stand would allow you spin driveshaft and make easier to access bolts but I was able to do on ramps. However, if drive shaft had not be aligned where one bolt was at bottom would have been very hard to access top bolt. Anyways still required adaptors and extensions using impact as exhaust and DS in the way. Once driveshaft loose from VC support with strap. Remove plug top rear diff. With DS out of way easier to access VC bolts. So now remove four 16mm holding VC to rear diff. Pull VC forward (have pan and rags read as mine dumped about 10oz fluid) and remove VC. My seal seal in diff looked ok but idk where that fluid came from. If replacing seal id say remove rear diff. I may do that (or swap diff with new seals) later as rear axle seals also looking old... Bolt new VC on, plug in and bolt drive shaft to VC. This is where being able to spin help so can check torque...I will recheck later. I also used threadlock on bolts holding VC to diff. The DS bolts have threadlock on them. Not sure if any of these bolts one time use but doubt it. Seal PNs: Rear diff to VC 68268679AA Axle to rear diff 05134787AB (2x)

Can't find how to section so adding thread here. Replacing easy enough but figured make a how to. If you get thunk from rear when turning the Viscous Coupler (VC) could have failed. Part number 68058066AB. It is not cheap @ nearly $1400 new. Made by Borg Warner and only used on 2011-2019 dodge journey. To stop the thunk and prevent damage to rear diff as well as diagnose you can unplug the wire harness from viscous coupler. This will stop power going to it. And while mine dis thunk a few more times after unplugging, after that it stopped and was clearly fwd only. No more thunk good until fixed. Did get dash light as expected. Basically (how I think) works (and saw video showing where they took apart will try to find) by having some 50 discs submerged in metallic fluid that becomes thicker as power added. So removing power allows it to the out and slip 100%. Threads that mention PN: I picked up a used one with 75k for $350. To find used can look on car-parts.com for carrier. This would be whole rear diff and viscous coupler. They don't sell seperately which sort of sucks given shipping just VC be cheap enough but not with the rear diff so have to be close. I had to drive 2.5hr to RI to get mine. And wire $ before they would even pull it...pita. But $400 still ⅓ what would cost new. Four - 16mm bolts to remove VC from rear diff. Hopefully dont see grey gunk using out as that would indicate its bad. Rear diff with VC removed: VC: So get under car. Unplug VC if haven't already, remove propeller shaft/drive shaft (DS), then remove the four 16mm bolts and remove VC. Clearly needs to be pulled forward so thinking DS will be in way but maybe wont. Then install new one....let's see how that goes. To be continued....

Thanks for reply. Just looked and holes are same. Honestly not sure how you could machine such a recesses unless did from opposite side and capped. Edit, well now maybe thinking could be done as they may pressed cylinders? Tubes? Idk term. But sticking pick down there is no...lip whatever called. Man I need to realern terms. I once knew them all. Time to put back together so they will go on top. Fuk it.

Sorry to make thread... I cant find info. Doing rear brake job 2014 awd 3.6 On rear caliper pins: One has rubber on end and square head OTher has no rubber but has flats on pin and head has 2 rounds/2 flats. Never had a hard time doing a brake job but this is silly. Had to heat rear rotors and hit with 10lb hammer over and over to remove. Had to wire brush caliper mount slots so pads fit as were too tight. So was not paying attention and when pulled pins to clean and now realize I did not mark which pins were on top/bottom as never had different pins so...woops. Any help appreciated. Or im just putting pins with rubber on top. Or bottom..idk

I got an in-stock notification from rockauto but when clicked link or search on RA part does not exist. However searched out found ebay seller has some for $150 and Amazon had some for $141 so ordered one. Just noticed now $187 on amazon. One left on ebay for $150...well there may be more from others sellers idk didn't search just figured post for those looking to get one. Edit now shows 4 on ebay.

Seems these are all OOS. Hopefully more will come in stock soon as you can see replies on YouTube but idk could be weeks/months. Also worry about a couple people that had leaks after would like to know why...saw one where nipples on bottom just below filter cracked. I found this on ebay https://www.ebay.com/itm/165359684985 Assume comes with cooler and sensors and cap but also says only for 2017-2018 and $300... Anyways I'm going to have to fix mine soon. Loosing too much oil too fast. Maybe just o-rings will fix for now but if need new housing guess going to have to get a plastic one.

Interesting so AZ was able to identify which sensor. Good to know. I will start with cleaning sensors. Being magnetic dirt should not matter but maybe they are dirty enough to cause error as you proved can happen...even though your situation sounds more extreme it is possible. Need to remove all lugs anyways as costco complained they need to be replaced. Think a few may have been over tightened (not by me!). What I assume is maybe some caught up (galling) so will repair threads as needed. Thanks!

Thanks for reply. My sensors (on ms6) same where plug is far from where could get screwed up. Which is good. And makes more likely bad sensor. Hard to find info about others having issue and how resolved. Always dealer fixed... Light went on today but no lack of power like she has had. She says when happens no abs light. I have torque pro app with BT dongle and will scan to see what says. Doubt will tell me much. Maybe there is a pid addon that would tell more. I also have a dashhawk as was best scan tool at time (2006) for my ms6 (mazdaspeed6). Not sure either good enough to say what issue is as even on my ms6 needed a high end scan tool to read not ready codes which even Cobb AP tuner tool and another tool that have dont show. For audi/wv bought Ross tech vcds tool that does it all but no help here. Just never had need for better scanner but maybe worth getting good scanner if can show which wheel. Anyone know of one that does this on DJ? I will scan with what have and will look at wheel sensors and possibly just replace as the loss of power very dangerous. Will update when resolve...

So last week I hit the TCS button (label ECS?) to turn off TCS where could spin tires in snow. Hit gas for 1 second then turned back on. Was basically to show girlfriend how works and how if stuck in sand or snow may need to turn off so can spin tires and not have ECS limit wheel spin. I understand how system works in DJ. I have a MS6 and it is similar setup as is in many other cars. I know me hitting button should have had no effect on system but the light on dash has come on a few times just days after I did it with completely loss of power. After reset car drives fine again. It is a weird coincidence and definitely not ideal. But assume this is all done in ecu so I think its just coincidence and is a sensor. But know she thinks I caused it. Either way have to fix as not safe. I though must be wheel sensor due to snow/ice but that makes no sense as melted and still happens. So more likely its due to bad connection or bad part. So how do I diagnose? Check wheel sensor connections? Start installing new sensors? I can check teeth on axles but given it happens randomly and resets and car drives fine assume its electrical. I know can also be steering wheel sensor. No ABS light when this happens. Wish had service manual but dont. Id like to try and fix without taking to dealer so figure ask here first. Hat throwing parts at car but idk how to diagnose and I mean new wheel sensors probably cost less than 1hr a dealer.

My garage right now...so ya. Will be cleaning this up first. Hopefully next post will be when mostly cleaned up and starting to get to work.

I am not organized but want to be. Leaving in 2 weeks so figured to get this done needed to do some research and I like to be on forums for when things go wrong to be able to ask for help. But on that ya I need to put computer down and get back to reorganizing garage...hate not being able to find tools. And have had so many projects lately they are all scattered so doing full clean/reorg in garage now. Just hope to keep it clean and organized from now on. Appreciate replies and encouragement and will post more as I get into it. Came from a forum that was great but would also bash those that didnt know what they were doing so did not want to post something asking to be spoon fed info. Found a lot of good info on here already.

I will be doing it all myself yes. She does not keep on top of maintenance as she should but at 112k miles not too far off on some of this. I dont know maintenance schedule but did download the operator manual and assume its all in there but these are things I would assume need done. The car drives good so not too nervous but AAA only tows 100mi so anytime further away than that I want to try to make sure vehicle will make it fine. I had idea to rent but all that is available is cars...as they sold all vans/suvs and cant buy more... I do not want to drive my car that far until do a lot more work to it so taking her car is best option. The one issue that worried me is when reversing it has hesitation/slight bucking (to me feels like tires spinning but they are not) at low RPM but read that others experience this so not too worried. I read just low pressure in trans causes it as does go away when hit gas but then go too fast... She appreciates it and that is big for me...but this is just what I do.

So I will be driving my GFs 2014 Dodge Journey 3.6 AWD to Kitty Hawk, NC from top of CT. So its not a huge road trip but will be far enough from home that if something goes wrong it will be a disaster. And while I cannot predict something like Transmission pump failing I figure I could try to get fluids changed and go over vehicle best I can. Vehicle has 112.5k miles. Not sure if there is a fluids notes post for all fluids but I could not find any so going to try to make list of what I need here to help me track part numbers and stuff. Oil: 5W-20 capacity 5.9qt I use Rotella T6 in all my cars, dirt bkes, mowers...everything, however think going with Kirkland Kirkland Signature 5W-20 Full Synthetic $25 for 10qt. EDIT, store only had 5w30 for $27 (2.5 gallons). $33 online for 5w20 (2.5g). So will have to see if another costco has the 5w20 in store or just use the 5w30 or order the 5w20 online as still good price and hear its decent oil. Filter: FIL 7526 (NAPA gold (WIX)) $7.99 NAPA (with 20% off deal) Drain socket size: 17mm filter housing: 24mm Transmission: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hneALApzAd4 Filter: 68018555AA $30 amazon Gasket: 18757 (Fel-Pro) $15.43 NAPA (with 20% off deal) Fluid Capacity 5L per amsoil: assume they mean 5.5qt on refill so you are leaving 3.5qt old fluid in trans. Was going to stick with OEM to keep simple but called dealer and they first asked for last 4 digits vin saying could have other than 62te transmission and that Chrysler does not make ATF and any GL4 would work which is not surprising just slightly surprised to here parts person say that. So just going to go with Valvoline ATF +4 6qt $31.74 NAPA (with 20% off deal) pan bolts socket size: 8mm Tcase/rear diff 75W-90 Capacity PTO: 0.8 liters rear diff: 0.6 liters Amsoil SEVERE GEAR® 75W-90 (2qt required) thread here used Mobil 1 LS 75W-90 synthetic https://www.dodgejourneyforum.com/topic/10963-ptu-fluid-change-diy/ Place I used to buy Amsoil does not sell anymore so went with Valvoline SynPower SAE 75W-90 Full Synthetic Gear Oil: $22.49 for 2 quarts AA with 25% off (code: RMN19). Drain socket size: 10mm allen? Diff procedure: https://www.dodgejourneyforum.com/topic/10338-changing-the-transfer-case-fluid-12-rt-awd/?do=findComment&comment=84496 Tcase procedure: https://www.dodgejourneyforum.com/topic/10338-changing-the-transfer-case-fluid-12-rt-awd/?do=findComment&comment=84497 Tires: 225/65R17 BFGoodrich - Advantage T/A Sport LT $671.88 installed (-$110 sale supposedly coming in September), but also could use alignment so going to get prices from local shop too and decide. Spark plugs: RER8ZWYCB4 Champion CHA9407 $6.74 each AA with 25% off (code: RMN19) = $40.45 for 6. or $7.19 for 4 NAPA (with 20% off deal) or same price on amazon https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OpHzy2WEEqM Also car has oil leak so will try to figure out where coming from but suspect it is the oil cooler: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I3AyZnGw8xM This video also shows how to remove IM very clearly. And think that can just remove two studs back DS from IM with internal torx (at ~21min to 22:36 on this video, and seems same is done around 1:40 above video). Will prevent having to remove bracket but we will see when get in there. So picked up a set of MAHLE GS33683 seals to fix. $12 AA with 25% off (code: RMN19) Obviously if it ends up being that the oil filter housing is cracked will have to replace: PN 68105583AG Looks close to $200 for AF version and IDK if AG is just different O-rings or what...~$100 for AM versions can get online or locally. As much as want to have on hand think will wait and see. Also need to do brake fluid and coolant flush, maybe PS flush... Lastly: 2012 manual calls for HOAT coolant but 2014 calls for OAT. Recommendations? I will have to drain coolant to fix oil cooler leak so will have to figure out best coolant to use. Im normally picky about getting the right stuff and not mixing so not sure about buying generic. Normally work on my car (MS6) and have been working on audi A4 B7s a lot but finally done with that. So this will all be new to me. At least it is metric or I would be F#@%ed. Working on getting garage cleaned and organized now so can start this next week. Most parts ordered. Come from good forums and have yet to explore here but seems like some good info so hope to add to maybe help others. Thanks.