John/Horace

Welcome to site. Great first post. Lots more caravans on the road compared to journeys so donor vehicles should be plentiful. People fixate on displacement for easy swaps. It’s map versus maf emissions set up, or integrated exhaust manifold in cylinder head (Journey) versus separate manifold; that can create issues. People blow up the 3.5’s when not changing belt, so maybe more demand for them.

The drivers door has a control module mounted behind inside cover, with a large ten-ish pin jack, IIRCC. Its tied into mirrors, BCM etc. . Module that not pricy, but wiring is likely more complex than 2 wires. Check a upull yard for a damaged door harness/module and compare it to your existing door.

The way it was explained to me by a dealer mechanic who always posted on the Hyundai site I was on. The upstream is the critical one that does fuel trim, affects fuel economy and driveability. Down stream confirms cats are working and will cause codes only. A few times I’ve had to use zip ties and reroute wiring when clips or new sensor wire pigtail length was off. Real annoying but I was saving $100 plus off dealer part. Hyundai dealer 02 sensors could hit $300. Rock allows returns for 30 days I think. The NTK’s were plug and play for wife’s 14 Journey and have worked perfectly for year and a half now. Wasn’t trying to mislead anybody. Sorry for the crappy luck.

Some times a taper punch can be good for lining up bushing hole with other subframe hole. Then try fitting bolt back in afterwards. Be nice to the threads at the end. Good luck.

My brother has lived across the river in Windsor for almost 40yrs, my son is in the area too. I was in Windsor a few years ago on the weekend of the Woodward Dream Cruise, there were some very rare mint muscle cars on the road. I’m sure they were crossing over for the event. The media coverage is really cool. Indoor car shows of stationary vehicles is kinda meh. The dream cruise is unique, and a great idea. The thunder boats on the Detroit River is another interesting thing to watch. The rooster tails from the boats and thundering V8’s make an impression. For gear heads like me.

Trying to guess how much weight is needed to prevent tire from spinning while torquing, sounds great. Forward movement from tire then helps roll car off jack because weight was’t enough. Car manual method is avoiding unsafe practice. Torque tolerance has a plus minus of 3-4 pounds I think. Enough to not affect vibration and require unusual effort for torquing lug nuts. Believe what you want. Showing a written procedure in a maintenance manual of your method, that would be worth something. Using a torque wrench for lug nuts, we agree on the most important part. ?

Pulling the upper half of one of the plastic timing covers should expose the timing belt. If It’s either shredded or jumped a few teeth then it’s really bad news. Sometimes if they jump on start up with out engine actually running, the piston doesn’t hit valves and engine can be salvaged. Long shot.

Actually it has nothing to do with my opinion. It’s in every owners manual I’ve ever seen under changing a tire section. If you have ever read one. Instructions say to both loosen and tighten nuts with weight on the wheel. Lightly tighten in the air and then final torque with weight on wheel. Journey manual says if you doubt correct tightness have them checked with torque wrench by service station. Retorque after 40 Kim’s to make sure nuts seated against wheel. Never a mention of no weight on wheel when setting torque, have never seen that stated anywhere ever. I have at least a half dozen factory manual from Jeep, Toyota , VW etc , doesn’t show up any where as a recommended practise . For a few reasons I believe related to transmission internal parking paul pin stress...it’s avoided.

Always start with scanning for codes to avoid throwing parts at a car. The CPS crank position sensor doesn’t always set a code when it fails, and is around $30 part , oem is best. At high mileage over a 100k miles I just change them to avoid getting stuck, becomes a wear item from heat and vibration it seems.

Great news, not a good time for buying vehicles. Thanks for the follow up info, helps site. Casting is cracked and seals are partly popped out, so it leaks. Nothing to do with removing the drive shaft. I would pursue removing ptu if possible. Fixing awd would depend on how good rear diff is as well, dump fluid and look for metal. It is safer to drive now the way it is. Awd shaft is worth a lot of money, even used. Don’t throw it away.

The weight on the wheels has very minimal effect, most mechanics torque this way. Good accurate wrench...yeah helps a lot. Stopping after one click and doing two stage torque on important stuff also helps. Torque wrench should be stored at zero setting as well, spring can get weak over time they say.

Most common a/c repair is condensor replacement. It’s an aluminum flat thing that looks like a screen almost, sits in front of radiator behind grill. A small rock often can often bounce up and put in a hole it. Then refrigerant leaks out, usually a small oil stain forms around where leak is, dirt will cling to it. Unfortunetly, several hundred bucks to fix usually.

Welcome to the forum. Wiring harness would need to be in substitute door for the power lock handle. I would remove inner door panel and try to see if lock plug is there from inner door wire harness, before buying a new handle.

Brit speak for roof rack, roof top carrier etc, I think. Welcome to site.

Rock auto shows them as being different parts. They are one of the most accurate on line sites.

I thought it was a funny comment, made me laugh. Water pump timing belt surgery on Kia 2.7 recently, big pia. Car should be fine for a while now.

Here is corroded brake lines being changed on son in laws Kia, recently. Not a fun job...ever. Even with nickel copper lines.

Haaa haaa. Must be the lighting, I'm retired so more gardening then wrench work. Here is a wrist scar from an exploding zip blade. Proof of something I guess. The clear silicone being easy to remove is actually handy sometimes. Just not great for holding plastic stuff together. My 2 cents.

Any possibility of a Progress report. No reocurrence of sticking TCC solenoid ? Good site info. I bought a Dorman tranny pan with drain plug recently for my Ram. Bigger pan and mess compared to Journey. Can syphon 4 liters from journey quite easily.

Held in place and glued, then remove support and it's under load, and driving with vibration.. .a live load. White 100% silicone maybe,the clear is really weak I find. Moparcity or other on line dealers are way lower than list now for stuff. I like this E6000 clear automotive sealant. Needs over night curing, but great for plastics/vinyl. Beats silicone generally, around $5 a tube.

Hatchback headliner trim panel. I don't find clear silicone is very strong under load. Should be under warranty coverage, I would ask. Parts department could order correct clip, maybe get two. Flimsy trim is common on FCA vehicles.

Was car former rental or company fleet vehicle.? Maybe some kind of driving monitoring system tie in. Is wiring tied into obd port under dash.?

Ramps are good for getting safe and decent height. I haven't had to have the driveshaft off our journey yet. Flex coupling at the diff and cap screws at front I think. Some people match mark the mounts to avoid vibration issues on reinstall.

Ouch, that's tough. Hope the Insurance business treats you ok. Tricky time to switch vehicles.

Used Ptu on LKQ is an option. If really high mileage and vehicle tired, maybe not. Viscous coupling in rear diff is another common wear item if you haven't done it. Can be changed without removing diff, guy on site posted about it.