John/Horace

Change your crank position sensor if you have ptu removed. It's accessable with it off, only way to do it.

Don't have to cap, can drive as is. Shaft mounts stay in place, don't pull out. I haven't driven without ptu on a Journey. People have without drive shaft on journey (I have on jeeps). . No Ptu might be a first. I think it's doable...free advice worth everything you pay for it. ?

I'm a retired milright mechanic. But have always worked on cars. Wife has an RT for a few years. Haven't done much to the AWD. Just lip seals in rear diff. As long as rear diff has oil, it should be ok just free wheeling. Front ptu has a drain plug, could check for oil. Top vent is easiest way to refill oil back into unit . If it's not holding oil anymore, it will need to get pulled until you get a used one.

Not sure how long it ran dry for. So can't really speculate on time. It would be safer I think with drive shaft removed. Could just leave it as 2 wheel drive vehicle. Single plug on rear diff sends speed signal I think. As long as plugged in still shouldn't be dash light from traction control.

Front ptu casing is toast, can't be rebuilt. There was a quart of oil in it at one point. People buy used unit from wreckers normally. New it's pricy, around $950 US. If you work on Dodges, are you an apprentice?

The aluminum chunks aren't from drive shaft. The pic is from the front transfer case, or ptu, correct.

You would need a jack, jack stands and some open end wrenches. If you work on cars sometimes, it's the approx skill level of a brake job. Front flex coupling needs bolts removed, hanger bearing bracket and diff ujoint I guess. You shouldn't keep driving it like this.

Have you checked oil level on rear diff.? Was it changed at some point. Did the old bearing hub sound or feel ruff after it was removed?

You should have rear drive shaft removed. If front of shaft at ptu drops down you will pole vault when it digs into ground. Running with out oil in a gear box you run the risk of bearings seizing up. Mechanic could probably leave it safe to drive as a 2 wd. If rear diff sensor left hooked up,n o dash warning light.

Maybe pick up the hinged doors from an auto parts recycler. Metal blade in a Sawzall to cut sheet metal.

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If the studs aren't too rusted yet you might want to reinforce the other fastener locationsnow. Not later. I'm in rust belt so I had a harder time cleaning up studs. Fender washers allow just one washer, but enough thread there anyway. The underside of that journey from the peg is amazing, in first post. No salt, sigh.

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Welcome to forum. I have a 3.6 so different. Usually lowest pulley is crank shaft pulley. But yours looks different, are their hoses leading to this unit, if so its power steering pump. Maybe someone else with 2.4 can answer.

Pics? Might want to clean up threads on drain plug as same time, they have a tendency to seize up. My brothers did. Its not uncommon to have to remove exhaust on some engines for oil pan removal. Maybe jack up from underneath with a motor mount removed might gain clearance.

Yeah common. I've seen pie plates thicker than that crappy shield. Fender washers work great on the bigger holes.

The NTK aftermarket are reasonable, they are the OEM supplier I think. Rockauto cheapest it seems. If you pull intake for rear plugs, the upstream is right there. That's when I changed wife's. Helps mileage a bit so Ido a little early sometimes.. Ramps another option.

How tight is the exhaust. I've seen pin holes in a flex section cause intermittedent p0420 on other vehicles. Cat itself was ok and code problem was solved.

Blinking mil light is the don't drive the car light, major issue. Doing damage to cats etc driving it. Maybe mice nibbled on some wiring when it was sitting. Look at coil wiring under the plastic cover over engine, also inspect O2 upstream sensor wiring. Need exact codes for trouble shooting purposes. Changing plugs sounds good, keep track of which ones look fouled. You got a deal, but will need to catch up on maintenance now.

Its a two stage lock on the rad cap. Second stage is spring loaded and needs pressing down to lock. Squeezing upper and lower hose with cap off helps push the air out of system. Funnel into fill port also helps air escape faster during fill.

Possibly bad rad cap, weak spring sending flow to reservoir. Pressure test system if bleeding doesn't help. Only one thermostat 3.6 engine.

You don't maybe blow fuse. Put meter in position that it beeps for continuity. Put probes across ends of fuse and if power goes through and makes meter beep, fuse is still ok. Or use ohms setting and there should be almost no resistance. Or use 12 volt clamp on light in handle style tester. Need to find good ground for this style which can be tricky. One leg of fuse has power that it feeds to other side.

Well maintained so ptu and rear diff have had at least one oil change since new.

Could get a used unit from auto part recyclers. If casting is damaged then rebuilding probably not an option. Might be able to remove drive shaft and temporarily use as 2wd. Although dealer not likely interested in helping with that. Shop that specializes in suv awd systems transmissions might be better option. Search this site there are links about ptu repairs.

Welcome to forum. Have someone plug in a scanner and see what codes show up. What is transmission 6 or 4 speed, mileage.?