Journeyphenia

2015 v6 fwd has 110k with orig brakes. The rear brakes are about done, another 10k guess? 

Painted the front lower fascia to match the body color, including the fog light bezels. Added carbon fiber auto-wrap as grill insert. Painted the grill satin black and bottom center fascia applique in satin black and flat black. Will likely change the bottom center fascia applique to all satin black along with the plastic insert strip above the chrome 

Rear hatch assembly, white relay switch at bottom right, wire connector left of that

Rear hatch assembly, white relay switch at bottom right, wire connector left of that

For anyone looking for solutions to a "liftgate open" dash warning with it closed, the most likely cause is the relay/switch in the latch assy.. If that's not it, as others have mentioned, look for a damaged wire going into the liftgate and check the wires of the 2 wire plug into the latch switch. That plug wire touches a metal edge of the liftgate and should be taped over from the factory but if not, wrap it before you finish up.
 
If it's not a wire issue, as far as I can tell, there's no fuse for that liftgate relay/switch. The switch is an integral part of the latch assy. so you'd need a new assy.. You could live with it and remove the connector at the switch but when you keyless unlock, the system will re-lock if you only open the liftgate, you will have to open a side door to prevent re-lock.
 
If replacing the latch assy., the 3 bolts have loctite from the factory but the two bolts attaching for the interior plastic panel didn't on mine and they were a little loose so loctite those also. The part is about $135 on RockAuto and it's about 30 minutes to change out.

Doesn't the Journey already pull cold air from the grill? I'm not sure how much more power you'd get with changing what you have. I've seen aftermarket products but wonder if the stock design has better results in the lab.
 
I removed the rubber gasket and the push pin at the inlet mouth, auto wrapped from the grill into the mouth, smoothed off rough plastic edges to and beyond the air filter. I also keep the entire air path cleaned and slickened with a dry lube. 

Doesn't the Journey already pull cold air from the grill? I'm not sure how much more power you'd get with changing what you have. I've seen aftermarket products but wonder if the stock design has better results in the lab.
 
I removed the rubber gasket and the push pin at the inlet mouth, auto wrapped from the grill into the mouth, smoothed off rough plastic edges to and beyond the air filter. I also keep the entire air path cleaned and slickened with a dry lube. 

Painted the front lower fascia to match the body color, including the fog light bezels. Added carbon fiber auto-wrap as grill insert. Painted the grill satin black and bottom center fascia applique in satin black and flat black. Will likely change the bottom center fascia applique to all satin black along with the plastic insert strip above the chrome 

Funny, Consumer Reports call the ride sophisticated at one point so how bad can it be in 2020 with other makes still using older platforms as well? I'm not saying it's an incredible vehicle compared to the latest and greatest but let's be honest. When I look at what is being offered, I see many vehicles have lost the utility of suv's. Ford Edge(and many others), no roof rack, BMW X5 (and many others) flat folding seats which aren't flat, Jeep Grand Cherokee, no more back hatch and the hits keep coming. Utility has it's place and until someone can show another vehicle with a flat fold passenger seat with storage below that seat, storage bins below the feet, a large false floor for storage in the back of the 5 seater, I'll continue to appreciate that the utility of the Dodge Journey is almost unmatched. 

Painted the front lower fascia to match the body color, including the fog light bezels. Added carbon fiber auto-wrap as grill insert. Painted the grill satin black and bottom center fascia applique in satin black and flat black. Will likely change the bottom center fascia applique to all satin black along with the plastic insert strip above the chrome 

Painted the front lower fascia to match the body color, including the fog light bezels. Added carbon fiber auto-wrap as grill insert. Painted the grill satin black and bottom center fascia applique in satin black and flat black. Will likely change the bottom center fascia applique to all satin black along with the plastic insert strip above the chrome 

Funny, Consumer Reports call the ride sophisticated at one point so how bad can it be in 2020 with other makes still using older platforms as well? I'm not saying it's an incredible vehicle compared to the latest and greatest but let's be honest. When I look at what is being offered, I see many vehicles have lost the utility of suv's. Ford Edge(and many others), no roof rack, BMW X5 (and many others) flat folding seats which aren't flat, Jeep Grand Cherokee, no more back hatch and the hits keep coming. Utility has it's place and until someone can show another vehicle with a flat fold passenger seat with storage below that seat, storage bins below the feet, a large false floor for storage in the back of the 5 seater, I'll continue to appreciate that the utility of the Dodge Journey is almost unmatched. 

Funny, Consumer Reports call the ride sophisticated at one point so how bad can it be in 2020 with other makes still using older platforms as well? I'm not saying it's an incredible vehicle compared to the latest and greatest but let's be honest. When I look at what is being offered, I see many vehicles have lost the utility of suv's. Ford Edge(and many others), no roof rack, BMW X5 (and many others) flat folding seats which aren't flat, Jeep Grand Cherokee, no more back hatch and the hits keep coming. Utility has it's place and until someone can show another vehicle with a flat fold passenger seat with storage below that seat, storage bins below the feet, a large false floor for storage in the back of the 5 seater, I'll continue to appreciate that the utility of the Dodge Journey is almost unmatched. 

Funny, Consumer Reports call the ride sophisticated at one point so how bad can it be in 2020 with other makes still using older platforms as well? I'm not saying it's an incredible vehicle compared to the latest and greatest but let's be honest. When I look at what is being offered, I see many vehicles have lost the utility of suv's. Ford Edge(and many others), no roof rack, BMW X5 (and many others) flat folding seats which aren't flat, Jeep Grand Cherokee, no more back hatch and the hits keep coming. Utility has it's place and until someone can show another vehicle with a flat fold passenger seat with storage below that seat, storage bins below the feet, a large false floor for storage in the back of the 5 seater, I'll continue to appreciate that the utility of the Dodge Journey is almost unmatched. 

No photo's right now. Moog has the rear sway bar bushings listed on their site . There are two sizes listed under the Crossroad, 22.1 and 24.1 so measure your sway bar diameter. Rock Auto sells the rear bushing and the sway bar links.
 
The rear bar bushings are simple enough since it's a direct replacement and fits into the oem bracket. I had no issues with the bar links either. I think my mechanic charged $100 to do all and it took about an hour. We couldn't do the front because the Moog bracket wasn't wide enough to accept the bolts. More about that below.
 
The front sway bar isn't listed at Moog under Dodge Journey. Measure your bar diameter, the 2015 crossroad is 27mm. I think I had to call Moog to get the part number, #K90402. The bushing isn't a direct replacement so it comes with it's own bracket and you have to use it.
 
You have to cut into the Moog bracket and weld steel to the bracket to get the bolt holes where they need to be.
1. The footprint of the Moog bracket will need to end up similar to the oem. Either remove the oem and trace it, get an oem as a template or use my info. The oem bracket measures 4 1/4" long X 1 3/8 wide(+ - 1/16th). The bolt holes are spaced 3 1/4 apart and are 3/8 to 7/16" diameter.
2. On the Moog bracket, use a cut-off wheel to extend the existing bolt slots to the far ends so that the slot is now open ended. 
3. Weld steel rectangles on the top side of the Moog bracket to give the now open ends added strength. 
4. Drill out the bolt holes at 3 1/4" apart and clean it up with a grinder.
 
Not as easy as the rear but was worth it. Not sure how it would translate with other models but with Crossroads springs and struts, it's been great. If body sway was 7 before, it's 3 now. Also,  the tire traction is better at slow speeds on surfaces which cause side to side movement and was losing traction. The seats don't have a lot of side bolster but I find so much less body roll that I'm not shifting in the seat as much. If you do the change, let me know how it came out. 
 

Pedal Commander is not going to increase power so it's equally effective on either the V6 or 4 cyl.. Probably a good way to think of it is a spot mode throttle response. It's a quicker and more sensitive response to your foot pressure so it comes down to what feels right to you. I tried going back to stock after using it and can't. To me, the Journey has some detuning issues. The transmission shifting and the throttle response are tuned to save gas and they are to the point of being small flaws. There are things you can do to improve your acceleration, here are some.
1. Smooth out the air flow from before the mouth of the snorkel to beyond where it exits the air filter box. I used a combination of auto wrap, a razor, and very fine sandpaper to create as little resistance throughout the air flow. After that, rub all of the airflow surfaces with dry lube silicone to slicken the areas for less resistance
2 Replace the air filter when it's showing dirt, before it's too dirty
3. Use Synthetic oil
4. Use 89 - 91 octane gas unless you are at higher altitude
5 Add pedal commander
 

Pedal Commander is not going to increase power so it's equally effective on either the V6 or 4 cyl.. Probably a good way to think of it is a spot mode throttle response. It's a quicker and more sensitive response to your foot pressure so it comes down to what feels right to you. I tried going back to stock after using it and can't. To me, the Journey has some detuning issues. The transmission shifting and the throttle response are tuned to save gas and they are to the point of being small flaws. There are things you can do to improve your acceleration, here are some.
1. Smooth out the air flow from before the mouth of the snorkel to beyond where it exits the air filter box. I used a combination of auto wrap, a razor, and very fine sandpaper to create as little resistance throughout the air flow. After that, rub all of the airflow surfaces with dry lube silicone to slicken the areas for less resistance
2 Replace the air filter when it's showing dirt, before it's too dirty
3. Use Synthetic oil
4. Use 89 - 91 octane gas unless you are at higher altitude
5 Add pedal commander
 

I thought I'd share this for anyone interested in an easy improvement to the Journey. I smoothed out the air passage from before the snorkel to the throttle body and it seems to have given me a smoother/quieter engine, better mpg and better shifting. 
Here is what I've done in case you want to give it a try.
1. The top section of plastic that integrates into the front grill along with the underside of the hood, are the surfaces which the air first passes over in route to the air intake snorkel. The is sealed between the two surfaces by rubber seals  on the hood so you'd only address the area within the rubber seals. I smoothed out those surfaces by applying auto wrap film to them. The factory plastic is fairly smooth but nothing in comparison to an auto wrap. You'd need to read up on auto wrap and use a blow dryer to get the wrap pliable to the surfaces.
 
2. To apply the wrap film under the hood, I first removed the rubber seal which sits in front of the snorkel opening when the hood is down. It prevents direct air flow into the mouth so  removing it immediate give better air flow. My guess is that it was meant to prevent objects from entering the air filter housing so after I removed  the rubber, I drove the car for about a week and in heavy rain to see if any water or objects would end up in the air filter housing. I didn't get anything into my air box and I drove it mostly on city streets. During a heavy rain, I checked out under the hood and found a few drops near the inlet but other than that, totally dry. I've checked it after a lot more driving and still nothing in the air filter box.
 
3. The film wrap on the top of the grill covers everything forward of the snorkel and ends inside the snorkel at the bump up of the snorkel. It goes over an ill fitting joint of the snorkel and grill section and smooths them out. Before I wrapped, I smoothed out that two matting surfaces with a file, a razor and sand paper so that it's as level a surface possible between the two. Before I wrapped this, I also tightened up the joint. That part is mentioned at #4.
 
4. I added film to the top underside of the air inlet snorkel. I removed the plastic push pin running through the top of snorkel. The pin connects the two sections of plastic but it's sloppy fit. I then pulled the snorkel up closer for a tighter fitting joint between the two, put some gorilla glue under the joint and drove a small screw to bind them until the glue dried. The film I applied went back about 3" into the mouth, enough to cover the old screw hole and the push pin hole. The film also wrapped down the sides into a U shape. 
 
5. All of the work I did where I was using auto wrap, I tried to first remove any rough edges to create very smooth and flat surfaces with. If you feel around in the snorkel you will find rough spots and areas that can be improved from what came out of the factory. 
 
6.After everything was film wrapped, I ran a cloth through the snorkel into the air filter housing to remove any grime and did the same wipe down inside the air filter housing. In the air box, you will also find rough edges on the surface shortly before the air exits the box toward the throttle body. I used mostly a razor on those rough spots, maybe some fine sandpaper as well.
 
The section of plastic between the air filter housing  and the throttle body also has some mfg. imperfections and rough edges. I used a razor to clean those up as well.
 
When finished, I had a very smooth passageway for air travel. I don't know the physics of it but it seems like that lack of turbulence somehow made the computer read the air flow differently and improved transmission shifts and the 2nd to 3rd hesitation shift. It also improved higher speed kick downs. The entire engine seems quieter so my guess is some of the acceleration noise was partly rough air noise. The engine feels much smoother during acceleration from this as well, mostly in 3rd gear.  I know this sounds like a stretch. I was only looking for improved power so these results were a surprise to me and it's not as if I found the result I was looking for. It came out of left field.
I hope this is info someone can use and let me hear if it works for you. If anyone finds the interest, I'll try to post photo's.

I have a 2015 crossroad and there is an issue with the front bumper. Dodge had 3 of these obscure parts in stock because, as they said, they break all the time, its' a known issue. If your bumper is drooping like mine was, you will see a gap developing where the bumper ties into the body panel. There is no fix, you will need to retro fit it on your own as I had too. I removed the grill and added 4 metal shims to the steel frame, which the front bumper rests onto. After taking off the grill, put your hand inside and between the bumper and the steel frame and you will feel the play that exists and will come up with your own solution. Now the bumper is solid, doesn't sift up and down. Good luck.

The Crossroad front bumper is not the same as other Journey bumpers and I think the issue is only on the crossroad. Sounds like  you have the same issue I had. If you can lift your bumper about 1/4" to 1/2" and if there seems to be about 3/8" gap under the headlights, you probably do. 
 
Removing the grill starts out easy but getting the lower portion of it to pop out of the bumper can be tricky. You need to lift up on the lower grill tabs for them to release/pop out from the bumper
 
With the grill removed, if you lift your bumper, can you feel space between the bumper and the frame which it rests on? The backside of the bumper has 4 determined points where the bumper rests on the frame. It may have more but you can't access them this way. Those points are where I placed mending plates. Use a jack to lift your bumper to the point which you lessen the gap to the headlights. My gaps are about 3/16" ? Do this to determine how thick your shims need to be. I used 1/16" paper drywall shims to create the thickness needed for no play between bumper and frame. That is how I know how thick a mending plate I needed. I combined enough mending plates to equal the shim thickness. It ended up that two mending plates were about 1/4" and two were about 3/8".
 
The plates screwed into the top of that frame and slid under the bumper at those support points on the backside of the bumper. Don't bring the mending plate as forward into the bumper as possible. Push them as far forward and then back them off enough so that if you push them bumper in with your knee, the bumper doesn't hit the plate. I think my mending plates were about 4" long. 
 
There won't be a crack on the bumper. Where the bumper meets the front body panel will begin to have a gap. There is a plastic support that joins them. That part is what will crack. Yours may have and you will know by looking at the tightness of the panel to bumper. If it begins to gap near the headlight, it's cracked. It costs $19 but with the fix above, you may not need to replace it. 
 
The first photo shows the crack at the top edge. The third shows looking down from the hood latch, My shims are specific to my work, 2 white and 2 black. You can see one black to the left. They are screwed to the black frame.
 
Let me know if you have other questions. 

It's hard to find because 225/55/19 doest seem to be in the computer system of any auto parts stores I went to. Your size cable/chain should be in most auto parts stores physical reference guide. I bought some cables at O'Reilly Auto Parts yesterday, Laclede brand #2019. The 225/55/19 isn't marked on the package along with other tire sizes but it fits. My tires are half worn and I adjust the cable to the 2nd from smallest setting. Use the rubber strap on the wheel face to keep any slack from forming on the back of the tire since there isn't much room between the tire and strut assy. back there. 

I put a little more pressure on second and especially third to get better power. Shifting from fourth to third or third to second seems off. Coming around a typical street corner, it lugs in fourth much of the time. Coming around a corner and up a freeway on ramp grade is worse. Thanks for the post!

I have a 2015 V6 with a creaking right front suspension at slow speed, over speed bumps and up driveways. Taking it to the dealer this week. It isn't a thud, definitely a creaking noise. Started at about 25k. Any help or advice as to what it is?