Locosiete

WOW !!!

Made a short video if anyone is interested 
 
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Well maybe not down where you're at. BUT we've already used it a number of times on 2 of the 3 I have due to the COLD morning temps we're getting lately!   
 Nice to hear from you, been a while!

The kid in me wants to add remote start but realistically I would never use it. ? ? ? 

Filter in the coolant line makes sense but I can see someone installing it and NEVER checking it ever and it then creates a clogg after years of neglect and then possibly creating another point of failure. 

have never heard of a coolant filter, that said  since you have done so many heater cores replacement have any reverse flashes done before the change? so what is the 3.6 jeep guys do with a coolant filter?

Oh wow I've seen that connector and thought something was missing.
I thought I needed to buy the antenas, the factory box or whatever controls it and mess with cables, I would have to try on my base model 2012, hoping mine works too, 

Anyone can. All you need is a new key fob with the remote start button. A hood switch or 1k ohm resistor. As well as Alfaobd. I used no parts from the wrecked journey for this. All our Journey's have the ability with a hood switch and key fob.
 
Program new key to the vehicle. I purchased the key from amazon for $35. Install a new battery in the remote before starting this step. Mine came with a weak battery and would not reliably work at first. I could not get it to program. With a new battery it programmed on the first try.
 
Install the hood switch or resistor. The wiring is already there. Just taped up in cloth like tape behind the right headlight. I bent a resistor so it would slid into the existing connector and wrapped it in electrical tape for now.
 
Activate remote start and hood switch present with alfaobd. There is a setting for the resistor as well. It defaulted to 1k ohm. I checked it but did not need to change it. I then reset the rfhub using alfaobd. It does not change anything. it just forces the rfhub to check for any new settings or hardware and implement them if present.
 
Drive around for 10 minutes. I let the car sit for 15 minutes and it would not work. After a short drive it worked.
 
That is all there was to it. Only new parts are the remote and hood switch.
 
The oem kit includes a new rfhub and remote start antenna. I ass-u-me it gives better range but the remote start on our journey works fine from inside the house.

Remote start now works. I purchased a key fob from amazon with the remote start button ($35) and a 1k ohm resistor for the hood ajar switch ($0.10). Activated the new remote with Alfa. Be warned. It came with a dead battery. I could not get the learn process to work. I thought I was doing something wrong.  After failing several times I installed a new battery in the new remote. It worked on the first try. Enabled the hood ajar switch and remote start in Alfa. Reset the RF Hub. Drove around for 10 minutes and we now have remote start!
 
I cannot understand the whole oem remote start kit. It is not necessary. Just a waste of your money and parts/resources. I assume Chrysler knows people will be mad paying.. what.. $600 for a remote start and finding out you only need a key and hood ajar switch. Then 10 minutes to program everything. I would have been even madder knowing I spent that and only needed the software enabled and a new key. I guess the antenna may increase range but for our situation the remote works fine from the house.
 
I still need to get the wiring for the temp sensor and sun sensor installed. Hook up the 110 volt inverter and I think I am finished upgrading for now.

To confirm, the unlock code generated by the dealer's software requires the VIN (and the buyer surely knows the VIN of his own vehicle).  It is NOT based on the radio part number, but rather the serial number and the VIN of the vehicle it is being installed in.

I have heard that there is a backdoor that lets certain people get the unlock code based solely on the radio s/n, But the part number never enters into it.

Was the proper orange coolant in there when the problems started. I think some people mix regular or universal ethylene glycol with the factory stuff. Jell can form in heater core and seems to block heat to passenger side. There are pics on line of a jelled core that was cut open to show problem. Sand from block coating was another possibility.
 
With a new core and a well flushed system , then rinsing with a special flush additive before switching to different coolant,  it should have fixed problem.
 
You may have a bad actuator still causing the problem, Rockauto sells them fairly cheap if that’s the issue.  If the actuator by the air hvac filter gets stuck,  your passenger side will fog up and there will be very little heat. With filter out you can see if it opens and closes. My wife’s 2014 just had hers get stuck closed. Poked at it to free it up, then silicone spray on pivot point; working again for now.
 
 
 

Leaking heater core would run coolant low, create smell in cabin, stain in parking spot. He hasn’t reported those issues.
Lots of posts of fogging issues, high milage older models normally. A/c in winter can’t cycle on enough to help clear windows, so outside air needed.
 
Pull hvac paper filter, look at fresh air actuator on right side;  probably will be stuck closed and won’t move when defrost selected.  Free it up or change it. Or hope it frees itself up, which someone else on forum has mentioned often happens. 

Was not a problem on either of my DJ's. So, it is not common. I assume you are referring to the inside of the windshield or is it every inside window? Are they fogged up and the defrost does not work or when you turn the defrost on it fogs the windows? Another thing might be a leaking heater core if thats the case.

Apologize for my late updates.
 
The local car fixing/mod factory said they can do the mod, that is replace the 62TE with a VW MQ300 or MQ350, and do some firmware programming work to get the engine and the gearbox married. Another plan is to change the engine too, replace it with a VW EA211 1.8T. But I don't think it's power enough for the car.
 
Price was the main factor preventing me from proceeding with the mod. It cost 30000CNY≈ 4500USD, minimum.
Another factor they remind me is, it's illegal.
Sorry for the bad news...
 

I have a 46 Plymouth, and yes, of course it is 6 volt, so much larger gauge wire everywhere.  I also had a 93 Chrysler T&C that I scrapped out after the Rust devil got it.  I found various places where the wires were broken in the 93, especially in the engine harness, where movement of the engine results in constant flexing.  I have compared the wiring in the two vehicles, gauge for gauge, and the difference, and the key in the case of wires that sustain daily flexing, is the strand count.  The finer the strands, the more flexible they are, and the longer it will take before that flexing results in broken wires.  (For an extreme example, compare automobile wire to stranded wire used in buildings where conduit is required.  The building wire is available at a significantly lower cost, but the strand count is much lower for the same gauge.  Very stiff in comparison.)

Thanks for the response.  I'm not a smoker. Rain-X is a good idea, but I'm trying to find the root cause of the problem since it seems to be pretty common with the DJ. I've seen a lot of posts about this issue, but not a lot of permanent fixes. 

Wouldn't a stand-alone inverter be easier?  They're not that expensive.
https://www.amazon.com/AC120V-inverter-sockets-output-appliances/dp/B082RTV7YS/ref=sr_1_4?crid=1UHI2540JVZ0U&keywords=12v%2B250w%2Bpure%2Bsine%2Bwave%2Binverter&qid=1674928201&sprefix=12v%2B250w%2Bpure%2Bsine%2Bwave%2Binverter%2Caps%2C303&sr=8-4&th=1

One little white wire can cause a lot of problems....
Both front windows wouldn't work along with the lock unlock buttons and the right side mirror
New harness ordered until then I did a splice job so things function
Can't complain I guess almost 180000 miles but why make the wires so small?

To get the vehicle "on the road to recovery" with the least time and aggravation and wasted money on parts that don't fix the issues.......Time to go to a proper shop or DEALER for a thorough computer scan of ALL computer systems and go from there.  

Welcome to the site. It’s the fresh air actuator on the passenger side, behind the hvac filter. They often randomly stick. With filter removed see what it’s doing. Every time car is turned off, it opens to vent the cabin so it cycles quite a bit. Once it’s freed up , it will do that.
 
Last time I gave it a small poke with a screw driver and a small silicon spray afterwards.  Very hard to get at screws, will have to change eventually.  Sometimes it frees its self up after a few days. Annoying for sure.

My battery being so low in voltage caused the truck to go into some kinda of security mode. So follow the instructions Yes push the push start button 5X wait for gauges to settle step on break and hit the start button one more time. (Make sure that your battery is charged or hooked up with jumper cables) the low battery voltage cause the journey to go into a “security mode” according to dodge. Honestly just buy a battery ASAP but if your like me paycheck to paycheck your gonna run into this problem. 

My 2017 SXT 2.4 Dodge Journey started to activate the horn alarm suddenly, with no reason. I was checking all the doors and find out that the problem was with the under-hood switch/security alarm switch/05026211aa switch, named as Mopar part # 5026211AA.
This switch is located on the front left corner once you pop up the hood, and it is wired to the Security Alarm System to indicate that the hood is open.
Check it, replace it. You can also by-pass it by wiring it with a 1000 ohm resistor. 

Sorry for your somewhat common complaint. I don't really know as there is a way to disable the system. BUT a high level scanner that can check/test BCM controlled functions should point to the cause. A 12 year old vehicle and probably a worn door latch or hatch latch as they are where sensors are located that would trigger the alarm. Particularly sitting or driving and vibrations breaking a contact thus setting off the horn alarm. These are not a quick and easy parts swap to track down and fix the problem  type situations. AND then there is the possibility of the steering wheels clock spring going bad as another possible cause.
   Good Luck!

I don’t have any issue with picture sizes. 

The dash harness is a lot more involved than the body harness. I am waiting on tech authority usb for wiring diagrams. That way I am not redoing work. It should be here well before I am ready for it anyway.
 
First 2 pics are the current stopping point. That bundle is mostly the amp and associated wires. The large connector will be gone. I want to repin the existing connector but time will tell how that pans out. The coiled wires are most likely not needed but there again I am waiting to tie it all together just to be sure.
 
Last pic is the lucky recipient or victim. Which one it turns out to be is yet to be determined.