Journey_SeXT

Quite frankly, I am shocked. As a dealer service manager, this is not protocol as I am accustomed to it. In all honesty, we are rarely, if ever, involved in rentals since we're in a small town and we can usually provide a loaner where needed. When a customer calls Chrysler seeking assistance of some sort, they always call us to qualify the customer's request and will almost always offer some assistance. In a case like yours where the cylinder head is a known problem and your car is relatively new, I would expect Chrysler to honor your request for rental coverage. If the dealer's District Service Manager will authorize it, then the dealer can submit a claim for the rental along with the claim for the head and be reimbursed for the Hertz bill.

I also read your last post about brake issues. Honestly I am having a hard time believing that you put 10 sets of brakes and rotors on your Journey in that short of a time. You say your mechanic has been great, but maybe he's the problem. I would have searched a different solution after a couple sets. I am afraid this forum is not going to be a great place to find support for your little lawsuit...

Glad to help, now go and apologize to your DJ for all the mean things you called her.

There is no sensor that actually senses the viscosity, dino, synthetic, etc of the oil. The oil change reminder comes on based on an algorithm taking into account your personal driving habits. So if you do a lot of city type driving, you can expect the oil changer reminder to come on around 2,500 miles (500 before it is due). If you do more highway type driving, it will indicate an oil change is needed at 5,500 miles (again - 500 miles before it is due). That's how it works - plain and simple.

It won't hurt your engine to have 5W-30 as opposed to 5W-20 in it. In fact, for summer use, it is better to have the added thickness of 30 at the "heated" end of the spectrum. As long as you have the cold start lubricity of the 5W, I only see poor public relations as opposed to a threat of your engine's life. Most auto makers have gone to thinner oils for economy's sake and not any specific need of the engine. The only exception is the Hemi with the MDS option; it needs 0W-20 in order for the valves to properly float when the MDS shuts off 4 cylinders.
From the owner's manual (emphasis added):
"SAE 5W-20 engine oil is recommended for all operating
temperatures. This engine oil improves low temperature
starting and vehicle fuel economy."
Again, poor choice by the dealership in not informing you of the mistake and giving you the option of a drain/re-fill, but, there won't be any damage done to your Journey.

Here is info on replacing the thermostat in your Journey if your are doing it yourself:
3.5L Engine
WARNING Do not remove pressure cap with the system hot and under pressure because serious burns from coolant can occur.

Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Drain cooling system.
Remove engine cover.
Disconnect radiator upper hose from thermostat housing.
Remove thermostat housing bolts.
Remove housing, thermostat, and gasket.
Thermostat—3.5L engine
To install:
Clean gasket sealing surfaces.
Install thermostat and gasket into thermostat housing. For ease of installation, install bolts in housing for thermostat and gasket retention.
Install thermostat and housing to Intake manifold. Tighten bolts to 105 inch lbs. (12 Nm).
Connect radiator hoses and install hose clamp.
Install the engine cover.
Refill cooling system.
Connect negative cable.

I can't help but think if i was in the same situation with an engine tick that needed the same type of repairs that the dealer would put up a huge fight not to do the work required.
BTW sorry to hear about your friends. It's very sad to hear when someones negligence results in a loss of life.

From the Chilton online manual for 2009:
2.4 L
Using a wrench, rotate accessory drive belt tensioner (8) counterclockwise until accessory drive belt (2) can be removed from pulleys (5 and 9).
Remove accessory drive belt (2).
Belt routing—2.4L engine
To install:

NOTEWhen installing drive belt on the pulleys, make sure that belt is properly routed and all V-grooves make proper contact with pulley grooves.

Install the accessory drive belt (2) around all the pulleys except for the generator pulley (3).
Using a wrench, rotate accessory drive belt tensioner (8) counterclockwise until accessory drive belt (2) can be installed on the generator pulley (3). Release spring tension onto accessory drive belt (2).

NEVER perform electrical work on modern vehicles without
diconnecting the battery.
They have so many computer(s) linked in the electrical
system that one short can do more harm than it's worth
to save a few minutte.

I am certainly not cticizing the age old MPG or the American system, but the Canadian version of L/100 is slightly more accurate because it measures actual consumption vs. how far you may go, which is a hypothetical distance. One gives fuel per distance, while the other gives distance per fuel.
If you care to read more on this go to: http://www.skepticblog.org/2012/05/24/mpg-vs-l100km/. It was written by an American.
A more acurate way might be gallons/100 miles which of course would really screw things up.
Terry

Looks like the inside edge of your rings are catching on the steering wheel.
I put on a wheel cover on my caravan, and my wed ring ate it just like your wheel looks like.
I'd recommend putting on a wheel cover and see if the problem persist.

The parts aren't defective, they're undersized. And your dealer is a thief. Buy aftermarket parts - 4 rotors will set you back all of $120 and pads about $100. They're not hard to change yourself, but your local handy mechanic likely can do it for $100 in cash or so.
As to affording the cost? Take it out of the money you saved by buying a Journey in the first place.

If you feel that you are being duped then take it somewhere else to get it checked out or inspected....just don't mention the dealer said they need to be replaced. Oh and have the warranty work done first by the dealer!

Forbes can suck my walnuts. I personally never care what an organization says. If I like the car, and the price is right, I'm going to buy it. Almost at 20k miles on my 2012 Crew...not a single problem. Still love the heck out of it!

Many of you might think doing these mods are difficult; however, they are fairly simple so long as you take your time. I will provide photos, video links and descriptions on the main areas getting you started. Pleases use this as a getting started guide and take the time to look around to ensure items needing to be removed are removed.
Installing bug shield:
Very simple...
Product: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001I9JKJ4/ref=oh_details_o05_s00_i00
The bug guard will have a slight ( U ) shape cut-out on the underside. Line this ( U ) shape cutout with the hood latch located on the hood. Look everything over to make sure it fits nicely. Peel the 3M tape cover off and attach... Job complete, unless you want to attach the screws. If you decide to attach the screws - drill a small pilot hole where the screws go and then insert the screws...

Installing backup camera and reverse sensors:
Products:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005CTKYB4/ref=oh_details_o04_s00_i01
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006MPY198/ref=oh_details_o04_s00_i00
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0055XCLK4/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00
First you need to remove or partially remove all panels/moldings. the key is to gain access and not completely remove, if possible.

After these covers/bolts are removed you will be able to remove the plastic molding where the trunk latches.

Additional side/top molding removal. For the seat belt bolt you will need a T50 star to unscrew it.


After you verify all bolts/screws/knobs are remove you can now pull hard to pop the side and top molding away to gain access to internal compartments.
Next you need to remove molding on the trunk door. Start by removing the bolts and pull like a mofo to get it off. To remove the top trim piece on the trunk, you will need to remove 2 plastic push-pins (black)-they are easy to find/see after the larger piece is removed. ***when removing the larger piece, there should be 2 smaller plastic moldings that go up each side that also comes off with the larger piece.

I have an arrow pointing to the black rubber tube you will feed all your wires/video cables through. Simply pull on the points of attachment on the rubber to give you more play room. ****you might need to cut some of the rubber-band-like pieces*** don't worry this will not harm anything.
Next thing is to remove the plastic above you license plate. as indicated, there are 2 bolts on the outside and one bolt you can find on the inside after removing the large plastic molding in the above step. Ignore the red line in the photo. Photo editor put it in for unknown reasons.
You will need to use a drimmell to make a hole in the plastic to run the video cable.

Okay, you are almost finished taking everything apart. 1 more item to go. You will need to pull the molding around the drivers & rear passengers seat away. With the drivers door open grab the top weather seal and pull on it. This is just like pealing a banana. Only remove the portion that runs along the head board.
Installing the reverse camera and backup sensors.
Starting with the trunk door:
***run the video cable, the camera hot wire and the reverse sensor (hot wire) through the rubber piece mentioned before. Take your time, this is not easy***
On the drivers side of the car, in the rear (where you removed the panels partially), you will see where they have a ground location installed. use this for the reverse sensor ground and camera ground.
Zip tie like crazy
Installing backup sensors:
Watch videos:



The video above provides all the info you need on sensor install.
Installing the camera/monitor:
You will now run the HOT camera wire and the camera video to the front of the car. Do this by tucking the wires into the headboard and BEHIND the side airbags in the door seals. *** always put wires behind the airbags*** The videos will show you some of this.
-Run the video wire directly to your monitor mounted above the rear-view mirror and plug it in.
-run your monitor's ground/hot wire back towards the drivers side panel and down to the drivers side floor board.
Accessing your center console. Open the console and pull up on the trim. It will pop off. Grab the shift knob and pull straight up like a mofo to get the knob off.
-you will now join the camera & monitor HOT wires and run 1 main HOT wire to your center console.
-Next you will run your Monitors ground wire to a location close to the break pedal.
-You will run an additional ground wire from the center console to the break pedal.
-combine both ground wires and attach them to a bolt on the break pedal. Zip tie to keep wires safely tucked away.
On your toggle you will see:
Earth - ground
Load - HOT monitor/camera wire
Supply - HOT wire from fuse box
-lastly, run a HOT wire from your fuse box on passenger side to your center console.
To do this you will need http://www.amazon.com/Bussmann-BP-HHH-ATM-Add-A-Fuse/dp/B000GKEXK2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1357417409&sr=8-1&keywords=add+a+fuse+mini and a 15-20A mini fuse. Simply attach to your HOT wire and insert into an open spot on your cars fuse box.

Love-Pink,
If you want to send me the Vin on the 2012, I can check for any warranty restrictions or recalls and also send you a build sheet which will list every feature on the vehicle.

Welcome to the forum darrenmaclennan! Congrats to both of you gents!

Very sorry to hear that the Journey has been a big disappointment so far as mine has been great. I would strongly suggest that you change to another dealership to do your repairs as the one you are currently using seems to be the main source of your problem.

Man, there comes a point when you just need to replace the brakes on your own with your own cash. It's only a few hundred bucks for some good quality rotors/pads. STOP USING THE CRAPPY OEM BRAKES!!
My plan is to just replace the front rotors/pads soon with wagners. Why continue to waste your time at the dealer using crappy oem parts? Even if it is covered under warranty, wasting 4-6hours at the dealer each visit would cost me more in work hours missed than just replacing them with my own parts that will last years. That's my opinion on the matter at least.

It all started with the window on the passenger side stopped working. Got an estimate on locating the problem and fixing it but it was far to expensive so I tought I could live with not being able to open/close that window. After a couple of months the car failed to start. Jumped the car and it started. A month passed and the car failed to start again, jumping the car did not work. Everything but the ignition worked fine on the car, strong headlights, radio, fan and so on. After approx 30 minutes the car finally started. Another month passed and the rest of the windows stopped working. A week later the problem with starting the car began with tighter interval. I started to search in forums and found that a lot of people is having the same problem. People tow their cars to the garage and change solenoids, keys, fix suspected cable connections and so on. But most of the time the problem stays and the cars fail to start with no obvious reason.
I found that this SAFETY RECALL K07 FRONT DOOR WIRING HARNESSES was not made on my car by checking my VIN on http://www.dodge.com/webselfservice/dodge/index.jsp . I contacted my local Doge dealer and they replaced the wiring harness and after that the car starts up fine and all windows are working.
So if you have problem with your car not starting randomly you might check that the wiring harness replacement has been done on your vehicle.

And if I may add... rotate every 10,000km's as this will ensure even wear. My neighbor has an 11' DJ and was bitching about the front tires being bald. Looking at the rears, you could tell the tires had never been rotated and the front of a DJ carries a lot of weight over the front tires so rotate religiously every 10,000km's and they will last just like any other tire.

Steve,
The dealer needs to look up the following case and see if it could help with your problem.
Case Number: S1108000170
Release Date: 09/30/2011
Vehicle Issue:
Ignition Will Not Turn From On To Off, Engine Stays Running; EVIC Displays Vehicle Not In Park, Vehicle Is In Park

probably won't be very easy or even cheap... Might be easier to trade the 2010 for a 2012

This is my first post to this forum and I hope that it can help someone out there.
Here is my recent experience with switching out the factory fog light bulbs with LED bulbs.
Driver side bulb switched to LED and passenger side still stock.


The LED bulbs that I bought can be found here:
http://www.amazon.co...fb_lfb_prodpg_0
The stock bulbs are removed by grabbing the plug for the bulb, pressing firmly down on the tab to release and carefully pulling straight back.
Then grab the bulb by pressing both tabs on either side to release and carefully pulling straight back to remove the bulb from the housing.
The bulbs that I got need some modification to fit the housing.


The above image shows both sides of the new LED bulbs, one of the old bulbs and the housing.
Carefully using a sharp knife or razor shave off the single tab on one side of the bulb and the thick tab on the other side. You should compare the stock and replacement bulb to see if yours require the same modifications.
The bulb showing the large tab on right in picture that is to be shaved off (sorry the picture is a little blurry)


The bulb after the large tab is shaved off (again sorry for the blurriness)


The bulbs should then fit in to the housing and just need a firm press to latch into place.
The plug then needs a firm press to fit into the bulb. The plug can only fit into the bulb one way so don't force it in, only a firm press should get it to fit correctly.
The bulbs came from the supplier slightly imperfect. One bulb had a clip broken off and the other had a bubble in the glass over the main forward facing LED.
The broken clip is no big deal it is just going to be annoying if/when I need to remove that bulb. The bubble in the glass does't seem to affect the output, yet. I will be taking a closer look in the near future to see if it might affect the light pattern.
The new LED bulbs have a much larger and round pattern from what I can tell so far. When I removed the stock bulbs the pattern was wide and flat. I am going to adjust the aim down due to the larger round pattern that the bulbs have to try and prevent any dazzling that they may cause for other drivers on the road.
The light color is really nice and is comparable to 4300k from the information I can find online.
Before


After


I do not have any problems with heat or melting as I have read some people have had when switching out for LED bulbs.

I would be concerned since they aren't name brand or anything. Probably not much better quality than the oem ones. I good set of brakes for all 4 corners should cost you closer to $400 (about $100 for good ceramic pads front/rear) and (about $300 for all 4 rotors). You'll probably be back to square one if you get cheap brakes on ebay.
Stick to name brands like Powerslot, Wagner, Hawk, EBC, etc.