2late4u

Filter in the coolant line makes sense but I can see someone installing it and NEVER checking it ever and it then creates a clogg after years of neglect and then possibly creating another point of failure. 

have never heard of a coolant filter, that said  since you have done so many heater cores replacement have any reverse flashes done before the change? so what is the 3.6 jeep guys do with a coolant filter?

In my understanding of the route YOU seem to want to take, that you are going off in a wrong direction.
You need to test power voltages at the 2 wire connector on the alternator and trace back to the PCM {engine computer} This charging system is the same thru many years, whether they do or do not have the battery saver terminal on the battery.
In rereading your posts, it seems that poor diagnosis's have been done and the old "parts cannon" ways have been used to no avail. One can not reverse the costs of past "blunders", so it is time to do things the right way.
GOOD LUCK to you and keep us informed how things go.

Voltage regulation is done inside the PCM. NOT common for it to go bad, BUT wiring to it or plug connector can go bad and give this code. 
  Not sure how good your English abilities are, but YOU TUBE has a number of good videos on tackling this P0622 code.

Did you check the reservoir tank for cracks or replace the radiator cap on the res. tank? IF that does not fix things, then you may be into deeper engine troubles.
Does this Journey have rear heat? Air entrapment in the cooling system is a big quirk on these motors when opening up the system. DO NOT "fill and go", run the engine with cap off{keeping an eye on digital temp}, shut down and let cool off, top up coolant if needed and then repeat BEFORE driving with cap installed. This has worked for me with my 3 Journey's.
 
Good luck, and please report back how things go.
AND welcome to the forum!

I'll save making an extra response to you....
   Welcome to the forum group!    
 
Seems strange to post that a '19 model year is getting "older" for a feature like back up camera system has failed, BUT the camera itself is almost 5 years old and been a known "weak link" in the system functioning. Many posts of failed camera's have shown up here. Rather than explain it all out here, try looking on the forum's search function for back up camera not working.    Good luck to you, none of my 3 DJ's have the camera system.

might not be the proper way but a lot faster and easier also would be a great time to replace the upper toe links as well with the strut out of your way
 

You will need to get the battery and charging system checked. 

when the journey is sitting at idle in park, does your rad fan come on.? Please have your vehicle checked out by a specialist before you ruin your engine

I was recently facing similar problem. Engine was overheating in stop& drive traffic, on highway it was all good.
In stop&go traffic temperature reached 110 Celsius and then fan kicked in and temperature was dropping.
After flushing, thermostat and radiator cap I finally found the cause: it was fan resistor. It caused 1st speed of fan not to engage, and waited until temp is high and 2nd fan speed engaged.
After replacing temperature is stable. It seems that resistor controls the speed of the fan.

mine did me the same way, drove me crazy for a while as i tried to figure it out and but then it finally went out and I just replaced all 4 TPMS since I had a 2014, that fixed it right away as they batteries were getting low and the shop said the tpm rec module wont act right after they get so low,,,yes it is $$$ but it fixed the problem,,save yourself some $$ from using the parts cannon and just re[place them

Thanks all, I am due to replace my tires within the next 6 months or so. I will get the tire shop to replace all 4 TPMS then and hope that fixes the issue.
 
Gaz
 

Mechanic just called and said it's a blown head gasket. He is getting me a price tomorrow. Has anyone done one of these themselves? Or know about what costs to have it done?

Member 2late4u was saying the rubber boot sleeve between the forward edge of the door to body of the car. it has wires that run from the powered door controls{ windows, mirror , keyless entry, interior lighting when door opened} MAY have a broken wire inside of that rubber sleeve/boot preventing the lights from turning on. You could also double check the lighting settings on the settings screen of the radio/infotainment screen on the center of the dashboard{not the instrument cluster}.

Not to "dis" on you, but it sounds more like a not properly adjusted brake light switch and they did have an issue with this a few years ago. Of the 3 Journeys I have, none have exhibited such a light problem. HOWEVER on a different "venue", there could be broken wires in the rubber boot between the rear hatch and body causing a short that may keep the brake lights activated. More commonly though those with broken wires just have those corresponding lights not function....always the possibility of wires shorting together all the same.
More common of ABS/trac control being a malfunctioning wheel speed sensor.
 
You do have a bit of an "oddball" problem , good luck and let us know how you make out with it.

You probably shouldn't' delay any of them as they are all pretty important to a safe and good running vehicle?? 

Thank you 2late4u for the advice on where my wire problem was and yes the wire was broken in the upper left rear corner in the boot. Now it’s is fix and working again, so thanks again. Scott. 

Most likely the wiring loom from the chassis to the door at the joint the wires break

Most probably in the rubber boot in the left upper rear part of your lift gate, this is a weak spot on dodge journeys for wires to break or short out...look on you tube for videos on how and where to fix broken wires in this spot and please report back on what you find out was your problem and how you fixed it for others that might have a simpler problem..also check out the forum for more info on this has been asked before,good luck and Welcome to the group as well 

Hey all - 
 
Good news to report - My problem was in fact the clock spring, took about 1-2 hours to swap it out with a more reasonably priced part off Ebay. Video here walked me through the steps:
 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bWDo0c0JRcM
 
Important thing is to disconnect battery well in advance to let any residual charges dissipate. My Journey did in fact have a connector for a steering angle sensor, but no additional calibration was needed after replacement. No more intermittent dinging/air bag light on in the dash and it wound up being a $60 repair instead of over $800 at the dealer.
 

Is a 2.4 engine? if Yes, it sound like bad idler pulley or alternator decoupling pulley. Remove the serpentine belt and start the engine, if noise is gone then you know is any of the 2 choices.

It might be somewhat premature, but I think it's fixed. I decided to change the trans filter an fluid and I took it for a 20 mile trip. It shifts smoothly up and down through all gears. I took it up an down some hills at varying speeds and it seems to be okay. Afterwards I hooked up the code reader and there's no more transmission codes.
 
I was a little concerned about the amount of grey sludge on the magnet in the pan but it really wasn't that much 1/2 teaspoon or so and it was all very very fine. I got the filter from O'Reilly's and the fluid from AutoZone (9qt of Valvoline ATF+4) an of course I forgot to get a funnel so I had to go back to town. I was a little disappointed that the filter "kit" didn't have a gasket or tube of sealant it did have a small seal that I didn't use (I was afraid of damaging the pocket it seals in)
 
The reason I changed the fluid/filter first is because it is the simplest thing. I will monitor for leaks I don't trust silicone only for stuff like this.
 
The 3 rules you need to know in order to fix anything are as follows.
 
1st) 90%+ of all problems are caused by the operator. (That is, there is no problem, only a perceived problem)
 
2nd) Try the simplest thing first, if this doesn't work move onto the next simplest thing, an continue.
 
3rd) This is the probably the most important one of all and often the one that's the most difficult to follow. Don't let the person that called you in tell you what is wrong or what to do. The reason for this one is if they knew what they were doing YOU WOULD NOT BE THERE.
 
I hope this information helps somebody.

4 yr old battery ,,,yes just replace it and make sure your connections are clean and tight

Can't hurt to change it or get it load tested

How "good" is your new battery?
Are the connection's good and tight at the battery?