5rebel9

The wife's '13 finally came due for oil change, so I did that on Monday of the solar eclipse day. PROBLEMS right away.
{1}  Had to use a breaker bar with long handle to get the filter cap loose
{2} STUPID DESIGN early oil bypass valve was NOT there, no parts at all.
      I did the oil and filter anyway and contacted my friend about getting another one, but had to call him back a bit later, as I found a noticeable oil leak in the engine valley at the cooler assy. NOT gushing, but would not drive it other than getting it to my fiends shop, to replace the whole unit with an aluminum assy..
{3} On the way there I heard a howling coming from the RF, YUP wheel bearing.
{4} I knew I needed to do Valve cover gaskets and have had them ready since summer, so it was agreed that for the paltry cost of $500., He would do the wheel bearing {moog},oil filter/cooler assy., and VC gaskets.
 
GOOD DEAL....YES....BUT
On getting the intakes and covers off, he found on the firewall bank that the Intake  cam had a lobe that was badly scored on one valve lobe and rocker shot. EASY fix IF it was on the front bank, but the rear needs to have motor mounts loosened and shift motor a bit to clear sprocket bolt removal. MORE WORK. We decided on using a good used cam and new rockers for the rear bank.  NO price yet for this additional work, but since we got this car 10 months ago thru him, he's keeping labor costs at a minimum and I cover parts, as one could tell by the price for the original work that was to be done. Car is hopefully to be done this afternoon.
My wife is back to driving her old {now mine} '14sxt.  
 
What a way to start SPRING! And I had been planning finances to get the '13 a new set of 19" tires........... Those with that size know they are NOT cheap!

17" rims WILL fit, BUT the TIRE SIZE WILL NOT, as per your response to member @Sam l

17" rims WILL fit, BUT the TIRE SIZE WILL NOT, as per your response to member @Sam l

Great to hear all is well again, but YES a pretty hefty hit to the bank account all the same. And yes, having capable friends or trusted shop other than DEALERS can help greatly on costs. Also can't rule out part of costs due to the WONDERFUL ECONOMY we ALL are currently dealing with.

Great to hear all is well again, but YES a pretty hefty hit to the bank account all the same. And yes, having capable friends or trusted shop other than DEALERS can help greatly on costs. Also can't rule out part of costs due to the WONDERFUL ECONOMY we ALL are currently dealing with.

Been a while since I've been on here, but I did get everything done. I have a good friend that owns a Mercedes shop and he did all of the rockers, a couple of camshafts, and a few other items under there for under $3k. I do have the 3.6 and it truly took about 8 hours to do it all over 2 days. I was also able to see the car when it was taken apart, and he showed me the 2 broken rockers and the camshafts. I decided to change 2 of the of the camshafts, even though he gave me the option to keep one of them. The other two were smooth and in great condition. After some more conversations with the dealer, the average price to do this whole job (without the $400 camshafts) would have been $4,600. The car is running great and I have an 18 month warranty if anything goes wrong. I've been on a couple long trips since the work and no issues so far. My DJ is still going strong with no issues. Oh, and believe it or not, I've always used high quality full synthetic up with every change. The issue was the lower quality rockers used in the original construction. 

You gave very little background info as to why you replaced those sensor. For that vintage they should be "plug and play", did you have CEL and just what P forat codes did you have?
After your work, do you still have CEL and if so what are the codes? There is more involved to codes diagnosis beside just changing sensors.

Without a scanner, the only way to erase and put computer into a relearn by driving mode is to disconnect the battery for a period of some time{folks offer varying amount} of 10 to 15 minutes.
BUT, a 3.5 timing belt motor with an interference fit design...has the TIMING BELT ever been replaced? Your codes COULD be from a stretched or jumped tooth timing belt. Factory recommends 7yr 90k mile replacement, that most folks DON'T DO and pay the price later when the belt jumps time or BREAKS.

What ones quit high or low beams/ all four? Does the car have automatic headlights? Any recent work on the front end or swapped in LED bulbs?
I've got 3 DJ's and only had a singular low beam bulb quit and it was the bulb.

What ones quit high or low beams/ all four? Does the car have automatic headlights? Any recent work on the front end or swapped in LED bulbs?
I've got 3 DJ's and only had a singular low beam bulb quit and it was the bulb.

What ones quit high or low beams/ all four? Does the car have automatic headlights? Any recent work on the front end or swapped in LED bulbs?
I've got 3 DJ's and only had a singular low beam bulb quit and it was the bulb.

The original poster of this 7 year old thread shows pic of his Journey being a flex fuel vehicle. That means YES he can run the higher ETHANOL BLEND E85 or regular gas. It is however stated in the owners book to run primarily one or the other and not mix fuel fill ups with more than 1/4 tank of either remaining "in the tank" fuel. YES it's been well documented that the 89 octane does seem to work better in the 3.5 motors when using regular gas and not E85.
 
AND     WELCOME to the forum!

I have a 2011 that the drivers door passive{touch the handle} did not work and had an EVIC message to service keyless entry system. It was broken wires in the door handle. A common problem as the wires were too short for constant flexing for this year. I took the handle off and apart and repaired/lengthened the wires and all has been fine for more than 4 years.
You state a fender bender, was that door damaged by the accident? lots of wires run thru the door and jamb in the rubber boot between door and body, quite possible a wire for passive entry was damaged/cut. 
NO WAY to tell you exactly what is your fault sight unseen.
Keep on the folks that did the repair and your Ins. Co. to get to the bottom of the problem and get it fixed, GOOD LUCK and PLEASE report back what transpires.

My son in law had a Fusion and wanted no part in changing the battery on it. I went up in the early Spring and changed it for him. That one was not bad at all to do in my experiences of countless battery changes during my "career" as an auto tech.2 months later, his parents gifted him a newer Focus sedan and used his Fusion as trade in for their new vehicle purchase.
My daughter laughs as her "in laws" are FORD people, and knows I prefer my MOPARS. AND also that I NEVER buy "brand new" cars while in-laws buy new and sometimes as often as yearly!

Yeah he is very good and funny. Hi point ….liberal douching of Fluid Film on positive needed or ….it’s good enough for the girls we run with. Tee hee hee.  Or most of this plastic stuff is broken by the quick lube guys by the time these cars get to us.  
I recently changed battery on 2017 Ford Fusion, not any where near as bad as turbo Escape. The young guys need to take a stab at some of these repairs, builds character.
 
Robo-johan  comments like usual, a non informational  scatalogical load.

Indeed 😁
 
I finally got to put one in about 2.5yrs ago and it has made a world of difference.  To be able to work on brakes while standing up is sooo nice.  The installation saga for mine is documented here .

Nice job! 
  Other than removing running boards {mine don't have them}, I did the same work late last summer in my DRIVEWAY on low jack stands on 2 of our 3 Journeys! One of them also got Valve cover gaskets and seals replaced too, and the other also got rear struts changed!
 
Everything would have been much easier if I had a HOIST to make things easier!......LOL

I completed the maintenance work over the last couple of days and the 300+ mile drive back to IL went without a hitch.  I average 23.3 mpg at, let's just say *quick* speeds, (according to the Fuel Economy reading on the IC) on the last 200 miles - I reset it after my last fill-up.  That was about 2mpg better than I saw on the drive from IL to MI before all the work.  Granted, that's a small sample size for comparison.
 
Here are some pictures of what was done...
 
Old vs. New air filter.  I couldn't read the make of the old (original??) air filter, but the new one is an AC Delco.  I like the additional pleats vs the old one.

 
In looking at how-to videos on removing the upper intake manifold to access the spark plugs, the ones I found talk about completely removing the rear intake bellow (somewhat under the cowl, between the throttle body and the upper intake manifold) first, and having to remove coolant hoses, etc. to make room to slide it out.  I actually found it easier to move that bellows off of the TB and move it just a little back to access that last upper intake manifold bolt that is hidden by it, and then remove the upper intake manifold first.  Then that bellow comes out easily and completes access spark plugs on the rear cylinder bank.

 
The spark plugs were the OE Champion, and I used NGK Iridiums as replacements.  Here are the old plugs, and a comparison of an old and new plug.


 
I also rotated the tires and bled the brakes.  While bleeding the brakes, I noticed the rear brake pads were getting low, so I went ahead and changed them.

 
While I had the upper intake manifold off, I took a picture down of the back of the intake valves.  They look pretty good/clean.  Again, my in-laws' Journey had ~57k miles on it at this point.

 
I also removed the platform running boards they had on there (they are hurting, more than helping, access at this point of their mobility).
 
Let's see, what else...I topped off the coolant and power steering fluids.  Oh, and I replaced the serpentine belt, its tensioner and idler pulley, as well - with the car being 10yrs old and the belt being original, it was just a preventive measure at this mileage.
 
Another item - the lower seat side trim piece on the passenger side had been broken loose from repeated entry/exit to the seat.  I found a way to use a hole on the seat frame and a trim panel clip to drill a 5/16" hole and secure that trim piece.  Aside from having to live with the appearance of the trim clip, it holds that plastic piece securely and works for us.  I'll get a picture of that later today and post it.

Would be nice to know just where on the PTU it's starting to leak.
My '14 developed a leak where it mounts to the transmission. BUT this was due to the O ring seal being damaged when the trans was removed for torque converter replacement. 
IF your car's leak is from the seal for the passenger side axle shaft, that is much more easily replaced to fix the leak, and much less costly.
ALSO this sounds like a time to seek a second opinion from a trusted shop.

Would be nice to know just where on the PTU it's starting to leak.
My '14 developed a leak where it mounts to the transmission. BUT this was due to the O ring seal being damaged when the trans was removed for torque converter replacement. 
IF your car's leak is from the seal for the passenger side axle shaft, that is much more easily replaced to fix the leak, and much less costly.
ALSO this sounds like a time to seek a second opinion from a trusted shop.

OK, so now I'm ENVIOUS! No wonder WHY you preferred to bring it to your home to do the work Indoors AND a hoist!!!!!!
Makes life {work} SO MUCH EASIER!

OK, so now I'm ENVIOUS! No wonder WHY you preferred to bring it to your home to do the work Indoors AND a hoist!!!!!!
Makes life {work} SO MUCH EASIER!

I'm performing some maintenance on my in-laws' 2014 Journey this week.  The last bit of service I did on it was in 2022 (replaced LF wheel bearing/hub) while on the road at their home in IL, but this time I brought it back to my house in MI to tackle the work.
 

 
On the to-do list:
Oil & Filter Change Bleed/flush Brakes Rotate Tires New Serpentine Belt, Tensioner and Idler Pulley New Spark Plugs New Air Filter Remove the "wings" (large-platform running boards) Install a Panavise mount for a phone holder There's just under 57k miles on it now, so this should give it a nice refresh.

MY APOLOGIES to the wrong responses I gave. MY memory must be failing on mr. Could have sworn that when I did a fast hub bearing replacement for GROWLING noise on our '11, that I glanced toothed ring for ABS. I WAS WRONG!
I will admit that on seeing your pic's that I'm surprised NOISE was NOT part of the original complaint
THANKS for sharing!

EARLY morning typing miscues''''
   Should have been typed to read try using your spare key fob and see if all works correctly or not. 
IF it works correctly, then the circuit board in your primary use key fob is bad and that key fob will need to be replaced.