John/Horace

There are so many things that can cause extended cranking on a warm (not hot start) start. They need at the 20 min slow start point to figure out if it fuel or spark related (compression and timing obviously ok). You have played along and paid for possible unnecessary services ( like 5rebel is saying, platinum plugs good for 100k) ...helping them out. Its only matter of time before it turns to a full no start condition. If free towing is included in warranty period it can be a useful tool for pressuring dealerships at the expiring point of warranties. Used it on wife's Hyundai about 10 yrs ago. They were resetting an intermittent sticky electronic throttle body ETB like your 2.4 engine has by unhooking battery for 5 mins. Car then started ok for few weeks but warranty was in last month's. A very long distance expensive flat bed tow ( free to me) motivated them to replace the $1,000 etb. In tank electric fuel pumps on most cars rarely fail now. They did first 5 yrs they came out. I would even put your ETB as a higher probability than the fuel pump. By 100k most people with a 2.4 engine have changed it, especially if a city mile car. Yeah happy new year.

Is the big tee fitting under hood that sends the glycol to the rear core getting quite hot, big hose probably 2" diameter. Tricky to bleed the air out of a two heater core system. Try another air bleed from the plastic bleeder screw on the thermostat housing under hood. Don't over tighten, plastic is fragile and can be damaged.

Sounds frustrating, haven't heard of someone experiencing this before. How many miles on vehicle? Hard when no codes come up, if you can wait for part to actually fail you can avoid expensive guesses. It's a hot soak issue, occurs when engine is still warm to hot. Which is how fuel pumps fail sometimes (happened to a ford van I had years ago). Internal pump clearances increase when it's hot/warm and pump produces less pressure. Loosening gas cap or remove it when slow start happens ; then try starting would eliminate slim possibility of intermittent vapor lock being cause. Evap and cannister issues would most likely set a code if this was the case. Most vehicles if there is low fuel pressure would probably set a diagnostic code. Measuring actual fuel pressure when engine stone cold and then heated up might give some useful information. Need an analogue dial fuel guage with an adapter that attaches to fuel line, a dealer should have this. Surprised they haven't done it. If I was doing an educated guess I would start with a cheaper one, like the CPS. OEM part is only around $35, installs in 15mins, on the 2.4 they usually start to act up by 100k miles anyway. Crank position sensor if it's getting flaky could cause extended starts, but once again usually a code. My next guess would be the expensive fuel pump in gas tank, if it was showing around 5-10 pounds of pressure drop. Good luck, free advice worth everything you pay for it.

It's an egr code. So sticking unit and possibly bad gasket on the egr adding to the noise. Flow runners in the old intake manifold were often bad for creating codes.

Welcome back to site. I got almost 10 years from that same factory battery, looks like Johnson Controls maybe. Hard to beat Costco price, sometimes the warranty is down a little on coverage time (or free replacement component). But $ savings still make it the best option. Costco switched away from JC batteries a few years ago, north of border. I can't believe how clean your wheel well is. Salt belt cars are such a mess on this type of work. Even with anti rust spray used. Some people are going with more pricy AGM batteries now. Way slower discharge when sitting, faster recharge by alternator, much better vibration resistance. Lots of Lexus and other high end cars use them as OEM standard for this reason. Handles the all the extra elect crap on the newer cars better. Around a $100 more for agm, and several good USA made options, Deka etc.

Running battery dead on a lot of cars seems to create a few weird issues sometimes. Easiest thing to try is pulling main power for a few mins and see if that corrects anything. The sound system has a large rear amp with a separate sub power supply. Think mirror shaker module. It's even possible there is a blown fuse somewhere. If you have a multi meter and no how to use it. Start inspecting and testing continuity on fuses in passenger kick panel. Electrical specialist shops always better than mechanics for fixing and troubleshooting this type of thing. Even though alternator and battery swaps are typical mechanic repairs. Our journey has the alpine system, if you crank it there is decent power. Sub woofer is important part of it.

I assume SWC is steering wheel controls. Was that one of your non working problems as well? Heated steering wheel control is another feature my wife would not want to lose. It's a shame there doesn't seem to be a decent plug and play option from a very big seller with hundreds of happy customers around. Or at least I haven't seen one yet. But I think this is a problem swapping OEM displays on lots of current vehicles.

Yes, merry Xmas happy new year everyone. I hope Santa is good to you...no coal in stockings, maybe some Jack Daniels or other appropriate beverage. Cheers.

Might be worth swapping flex coupling with the shaft off vehicle, if it's getting ratty. When part ships with threadlocker, you know it's a good idea. Somebody on site had their coupling bolts come loose. Not sure of inch pound torque spec, no one has posted back after an install. Mitchel on line with a login would have it. 2010 DODGE JOURNEY 3.5L V6 Drive Shaft Flex Joint _ Shop Now at RockAuto

I would guess soak in PB Blaster or penetrating oil, let sit a while. Cut away most of the hanger bearing support sheet metal that is in the way. Use cold chisels or metal wedges,crow bar etc and slowly inch out the shiny reinforced shaft end from bearing. If reasonable force won't move it, go to yellow cylinder MPS gas and heat it up a bit, then see if wedges will move it. If that all fails...get a zip blade and a grinder and go all medieval on the bearing assembly...cutting away as much as possible without damaging turned down shaft area that needs to slide into new bearing. Heat from cutting might free things up enough half way through anyway. Could also bring shaft assembly to a mechanic you trust with the new hanger bearing. See if interested in a small cash job, doing a repair like he would on his own vehicle. Not swapping out an entire driveshaft. He might even hand it off for an apprentice to do. Amazon link to part would be helpful to other's. Cheers.

You are saving big bucks. Got an amazon link, search shows several options .? How many kms on the shaft, curious.

Curious where you got carrier bearing and support. Original poster didn't follow up. The Cordone shaft listed on Rocka is a reman shaft. So somebody is doing it somewhere. I was able to rebuild shafts on jeeps I had years ago, but beefier designed u joints and easily changed.

Forgot to respond to this post. Yes put a saddle on your Journey...and have "more happy rides on it". Hilarious. Wonder what happened to robo Johan. Did the moderator or admin nuke him? Before AI bots take over the car forum world they will have to figure out the difference between sitting in or on a vehicle, among other things. Although if it's just about activity generation of any sort; then it's mission accomplished. Maybe they can repurpose robo Johan into a better search function for the site. That would help boost traffic imo. Backing out to use the Google gets annoying.

Glad it helped…but it’s not really fixed. Just a bandaid to help keep car going with two wheel drive only now. Wrapping end of wire harness plug with electrical tap to protect from corrosion would be a good idea. If stuck a bit, could plug back in to maybe help get back on paved road. The banging can damage flex coupling and other awd components. Some rear diff mounts have even been sheared off. If you come cross a auto recycler with a good used viscous coupling there are posts on this site on how to swap it out.

Always start with checking for codes. Lightning symbol is major electrical fault detected. At times it turns out to be elec throttle body. Mainly on 2.4 engines at over a 100k miles.

With your vin number, dealer could give you an actual part number. Then go from there. Even heated steering wheel option has an effect on getting correct part. Or look at part number on your vehicle now. Not the easiest diy job.

Crank sensors don’t jut go bad in a few weeks. They should be closely inspecting and using a multi meter to test the wiring on the CPS sensor. It sends a signal to ecm computer to keep car running. It’s a low voltage signal and a damaged wire can creat intermittent problem. Another possibility could be reluctor ring has slipped. Is the check engine light on right now? What is a reluctor ring? The reluctor ring is mounted on the crankshaft so that as the crankshaft rotates the magnetic sensor is triggered by notches in the reluctor ring. The magnetic sensor provides position information to the electronic control module, which governs ignition timing. Magnetic sensor is the CPS crank position sensor.

Welcome to the site. Ouch, so the bags fired too. The site link below is the biggest on line source, I don’t work for them, but have used them for over 10 years. Their pics and info are very accurate so might be able to cross reference on the site. Aftermarket part shows $422 cdn, wow, Mopar no stock like usual. I would guess the part would be on multiple FCA products. Wreckers have their own software like Hollins for matching rims etc, try LKQ , very large cross country and cross border parts network. Even decent upull yards often can cross reference stuff pretty well. Assembly does have visible parts # sticker. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,2009,journey,3.5l+v6,1442283,interior,air+bag+clockspring,10480

Great news. Viscosity of gear oil is pretty high compared to motor oil. . Even with a suction gun you need to pause a bit, allow trapped air to gurgle back up. Takes a bit of patience. On level surface, check rear diff as well, you probably have spare oil from ptu job. Oil level should be to the very top of fill hole, if warm it may even ooze out a bit. Diff also has a magnetic drain plug like ptu.

You can remove driveshaft temporarily and still drive the vehicle. It has been done.

Lots of oem stuff still not available from dealers. This switch is used in so many FCA-Stellantis vehicles I guess they had to make them. Better the switch than the door wire harness feed.

Very important to preheat oil, hair dryer etc. Otherwise forcing in oil takes a very long time for only 800 ish ml of oil. Harbour Freight sells a suction gun that would be handy.

There is no listing for a hangar bearing part on places like Rockauto, biggest on line site. Most drive shafts have to be bought as a full unit now. Rubber Flex coupling is available only. There are a few aftermarket shafts made. Used unit from auto wrecker is an option. New oem is very expensive and out of stock shown on Mopar Canada etc. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,2014,journey,3.6l+v6,3300354,drivetrain,drive+shaft,2308

https://www.reddit.com/r/interestingasfuck/s/MDTUujxKJO Comments a little nasty…but explain the details.

The oil is held in by the outer lip seal that you have. The rubber/plastic bushing I think is more of a spacer for the cv shaft end location. A transmission shop might be able to locate something like that. Or try a different dealer, no one is spending $2k instead of $20 on a bushing. Maybe lazy parts guy. Wrecking yard would be another option. They often have cars have pulled apart so access might not be bad. Could also try just changing out the lip seal you have, leave spacer bushing as is. See if it actually keeps leaking. Make sure to clean up the surface of cv shaft where inner seal runs really well with scotchbrite etc. Then put a thin film of tranny fluid on that end of shaft area before sliding shaft back in place. Rubber tears easily.