John/Horace

I’m pretty sure it wouldn’t. Would Set a code and a light on dash, battery warnings. I’m assuming it the 3.6 not 2.4, you haven’t said which. Car will run with battery sensor unplugged, it sends current reading to ecm helps control alt. No spark is usually CPS sensor. The old engine is worn out from use, it didn’t just stop starting? You have all wire harness plugs properly seated. No open plugs not used. Easy to have a bad pin on a plug, check each individual plug with a multi meter. If turning over slow, clean up main grounds, boost with a second battery if needed.

Good input. Welcome to the site.

Turn on four ways and walk around back of car. Should be flashing both sides, can drive like that for short trips. Could be fuses switches or wire harness. Need a multi meter and some basic elect knowledge to trouble shoot. Sometimes it’s grounds that are bad, not power supply. Fuse check first, then start cleaning up ground wires and dirty connections under hood. Both strut towers have multiple ground wires mounted under hood. Sand to bare metal and use light film of dielectric grease. Even the remote jump wire hook up coming off battery needs clean up sometimes…you are in the salt belt!!

Most of the time just alphaobd with scanner can enable. If Sirius radio optioned pretty much guaranteed antenna etc is all there but both remotes programmed by alphaobd still needed. Remote requires an extra button that triggers with double click. Like in pic. It is an old school 315 MHz (unlike Asia and europe who use 433.9 and 868 MHz) set up so range limited to around 100 metres or 330 feet. Still handy to have.

Wow that’s cold. We maxed out at -8F or -22C that night. Had to start Journey in morning, it made noises I hadn’t heard before and it has expensive 5w20 oil in it. Wished I had plugged in our block heater (cdn order Journeys often came with them) but nearest outlet is far away. Battery is only a year old, so no issue there. My local parts recycler sells used batteries for reasonable cash. I look at the manufactured date labels on batteries first…if they have them, then use my old school battery load tester on the newest two or three. If I give him my old DOA battery he credits that too. Amazing the price on new ones right now. You will like working on the 2.4 in the Journey. Lots more room under the hood so repairs are faster. Have serviced daughter in laws 2012 for 7-8 yrs now. Not great power and only a 4 speed automatic, but as you know …simple is good on older cars. pic of local Cdn bone yard , Journey section up to 8 vehicles now, and Harbor Freight $20:(yeah bought in down south 15 yrs ago) load tester.

It’s a very critical component of vehicle and labor and glycol will be more than the part. Dorman(US based manufacturer) is the first company to bring out the aluminum unit; which is probably China made. But to their specs. I know people without trouble running a Dorman for a few years now…like 5rebel9. I like products from RockA, I have no affiliation with them but have used them for 10 yrs now. Most accurate jpgs fast shipping and competitive prices (easy to find 5% discount code on retailmenot). Their main China brands are Shermar (12 month warranty) and SKP (24 months) while Dorman is lifetime warranty (no labor obviously). China brands are 25-30% cheaper than Dorman. I have used rocka China brands, generally ok. But not dealer quality for sure. There was no alum in 2018; when my oem failed; I bought over priced dealer plastic unit to make sure it was a one and done…on a daily driver car. It’s stilling working after 80k miles; but I expect to have to replace it eventually. My daughter is getting car next year. Free advice as they say is worth everything you pay for it. I would not buy the cheapest random part from a possibly sketchy supplier. Paying second labor/glycol downtime cost would not be great. But after Xmas…money is always tighter, I get it. Your call.

Sounds frustrating. It might just be a steady drip on one of the connections, must be close to 20 clamps. Below is pic of rear heat supply return lines. Leak would likely be lower down on subframe if that’s cause. If you spray off glycol, be gentle don’t spray close up. Easy to damage stuff under hood.

Older HOAT was clearly orange newer OAT is called orange but yeah sometimes closer to red or purple. Its the word OAT that matters , or OAT compatible, not the color. I prefer using real OAT to avoid compatible/universal risk (at least in my mind). Owners manual in 2014 says OAT so will your 2017. The purple is not saying OAT on it that I see. Spec is Chrysler MS7170 or MS9769 or SAE J1034. You will be dumping it soon to fix leak anyway, universal short term shouldn’t be issue.

You should have OAT in system from factory and it’s actually orange color . This is what I use, the original since 2013 OAT coolant, not HOAT ! I prefer to stay away from universal stuff. Safest is dump and flush and refill with same kind after leak fixed.

You have the right guy responding to you, 5rebel9 has more 3.6 experience than anyone else on the site. Top of engine will collect a bit of oil even from oil filter changes. If oil cooler has a real-oil leak, you can wreck engine quite fast. Will pour quickly out on driver side of engine compartment because that end is open more. Glycol would also be similar. I had glycol drip at front of engine below pump pulley, just before 100k miles. That is usually pump bearing seal failure, turning pulley without belt it was quiet and no excess play. But I bought new pump and aluminum style gasket anyway. Turned out small section of shim gasket had corroded away and created the drip, pump was fine (not common fail on 3.6 engines, esp at 100k). Changed it anyway after spending 2+hrs taking apart. No glycol issue since, changed thermostat (a wear item) since system was emptied out. Oil cooler failed 20k later, only oil leak occurred. Up to around 2012 HOAT was the orange fluid, it’s now all OAT organic acid tec and purplish orange color. Not compatible don’t mix them. Can gel up heater cores if wrong fluid used. Clean up as much fluid as you can and run engine with beauty cover off, clean cardboard under engine. Look for main source. Van has diff cooling lines than Journey. But plastic tee that feeds rear heater core is known to fail early, oil cooler lower orings could also start weeping a bit. First pic is a new water pump gasket alum shim.

Welcome to the site. Search around the posts, lots of links about android head units. There is no plug and play unit available. Find a shop that installs aftermarket units. Let them supply and install replacement. They will have figured out the quirks of what they are selling. Soft button features like heated steering, rear 120 power supply etc tricky to transfer over.

Rockauto (most accurate on line parts site) shows the avenger and Journey in that year with identical CPS sensor, throttle body etc in 2010 model year. If your vehicle and ecm computer are within even a few years I think it should be fine. This vehicle until recently was running before engine died, correct ? If you got the new engine complete with all sensors; you could paint mark CPS and ETB on old engine and move over parts, one at time. Clear codes and observe what happens. Even if one or two bad plugs or coils, engine should still fart and half ass run on the other cylinders if there is spark and fuel and compression.

https://www.dodgejourneyforum.com/profile/22067-unclesamautos/ This guy seems legit. Have not personally delt with him, but shipping him your dead unit for a refurb is most cost effective repair. The unit is mounted in dash right underneath steering column. Not easy to get at. There are utube links of people removing it. How long is warranty on dealer repair ?

There is no carb, you mean down throttle body opening. One of your many codes is throttle body, they have plastic gears so are sensitive, down plugs is better. Is the replacement engine a known decent unit? Lots of nonsense codes can come up with a no start problem. Two way scanner could trouble shoot electronic throttle body (known wear item), cam sensors, even map sensor can be cycled with canbus scanner. Parts more expensive where you are so trouble shooting will be worth your while. The cycle is spark, fuel, compression and timing. Common wear items on 2.4 is ETB electronic throttle body Hitachi makes OEM unit), cps crank position sensor (not always a code set).

Any codes coming up. Is it a 2.4 engine. Can you hear fuel pump coming on? Are plugs wet with fuel.?

Deductible is a big issue with warranty claims. It is approx 2 hours in labor and then the approx $200 part. Good idea to change plugs while in there, if they haven't been done, I think 100k mile recommended change interval. Sometimes a bad warranty is better than no warranty. Could get independent no insurance quote first; keep that under your hat and see what warranty guys come up with. Weasel clauses with warranty coverage can be an issue. At least parts supply issues from covid mainly over now.

Fix glycol leak on engine first. Water pump leak would be passenger side of engine, I mistakenly said drivers side. Aluminum engines like the 3.6 don’t respond to over heating, get wrecked fast. If low glycol rear heat won’t work. Don’t add quick fix sealer additives, they can plug up heater core etc, find source of leak. Like 2late4u said. Remove top beauty cover and shine light down around oil filter housing on top of engine. Should not see any red glycol sitting between the cylinder heads. Most of time the oil cooler gush oil on failure; but glycol is possible because two of the bottom ports in pic feed right into cooling jacket of engine. In theory you could just replace the bottom set of o ring seals (new unit comes with new seals installed) on current cooler. But better move is to replace with a whole new aluminum made unit. They were not available when mine failed in 2018 so I used an oem plastic unit. These coolers are used on Jeeps, rams and lots of other 3.2 and 3.6 engines. It’s one of the few flaws on a decently reliable engine. Aluminum oil cooler assembly is around $200 taxes in shipped.

Start driving with a jug of coolant in vehicle so you don’t get stuck in the cold. Keep the reservoir at half if possible until you get leak fixed. You might have more than one problem going on at once. The leak is the main priority, clearing code permanently is second. If water pump weap hole is dripping (bad main shaft bearing seal) it will drip right at the front of the engine, so drivers side coming down. Milage is a little low for that, but it’s possible. If you have rear heat there is a plastic tee fitting in the large 1.5” hose that will feed rear heater core. Leak would be high up at front of engine, right around the middle. If fitting snaps you won’t be able to drive anyway, system will empty in mins at most. Most likely leak is the oil cooler heat exchanger assembly. Mine failed at 100k miles, bottom oil seals let go. It’s mounted between the vee of the cylinder heads, on the top of engine. Usually they gush oil but glycol is also possible as it heats/cools the engine oil flowing through it. Plastic get brittle and/or o ring seals let go under pressure. Most people switch to an all aluminum style unit, they don’t seem to fail a second time. The units with black are the plastic units. Engine oil filter is part of the assembly. It’s located under the plastic intake manifold, so hard to see. The two screw in sensors are oil temperature and pressure. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,2017,journey,3.6l+v6,3434428,engine,oil+filter+housing,12429

Yeah real snows are a much better than all seasons. It’s not just snow, it’s handling and braking on icy roads. I also have a set of all weather tires, snow flake symbol but can be used all year round, Cooper Discovery A/TW, US made tire. Also much better than all season, a little more money to buy, but only one set of rims make them worth considering (nice having tire sensors working). Not as good as a top level snow/ice tire; but way better than a no season radial. Have had dozens of different sets of snows (Hakapalita, Nokia, Toyo, Michelin) some very expensive; and the reasonable priced Cooper measure up. Rubber ages out and tires get hard, start to crack, tend to get really loud. If you don’t drive a lot, separate summer/winter tires don’t work out as well, the tires have lots of tread when cracking makes them unusable. Steel rims handle salt much better, fewer rims leaks from corrosion than aluminum. So use up the winters, then look at all weather tires next. My 2 cents.

Have you checked the fuse in passenger side kick panel. Probably HFM hands free module or similar. If Bluetooth module goes bad it kills battery fast, people often yank fuse as temp solution. There is a guy on this site who referbishes the pricy module for a decent price. Flashes firmware etc. Use search.

I hope you are trouble shooting things. Journey starters rarely go. Make sure you check fuse in passenger kick panel for pushbutton start before attempting a large expensive repair. It's a small plastic micro fuse, 10 amp I think. Car won't engage or try to start if blown. Mine blew once several years ago, fine since.

Yup, rear calipers can be an issue. They start to not fully retract after parking brake used. Can tap back so no gap is there, spring doesn’t seem strong enough. Pic is with parking on, gap should completely disappear when released. Freeing up with cycling doesn’t really help. Cross direction bleeding works best on Journey, longest line first. Passenger rear then driver front etc. If no pressure bleeder, just a 2” piece of clear tube over end of bleeder screw helps. You see clearly when no more air bubbles coming out. Light taps on caliper can be helpful.

It's very similar to a starter on most V6 engines if you have changed one. Awkward for sure but there are worse repairs. I haven't done one yet, but several people have said from below with motor mount removed it's doable with patience. Close attention to how it comes out, then copy for install. Jack stand for support with no mount. I think Dean H on this site may have changed one. Or have decent input.

Welcome to the site. Was a new decent brand oil filter like Wix or a factory filter used last oil change? Should immediately change oil and filter and see if it helps. I stick to the 5w20 oil if the engine has minimal consumption. The pressure sensor is in the heat exchanger between the cylinder heads, below plastic intake manifold. Could be bad sensor. Even damaged wiring to sensor can be problem, although you still are showing some pressure. Code probably causing limp Bizkit mode so engine sluggish, or vvt cams need proper oil pressure to function. Low oil pressure will rapidly wreck an engine, 5rebel9 had to replace oil pump on one of his fleet of Journeys. He is familiar with the repair, hopefully he responds. It's behind oil pan, a fairly expensive repair unfortunately, if that turns out to be issue. Trouble shooting needs to be done.

From the Google.....most conventional fuel systems with a regulator, run at around 3 bar or 43.5 psi base pressure, while most returnless systems run at around 4 bar or 58 psi. Not sure if journey is return set up, number of lines from rear sending unit will tell you that. When car is running , the actual guage number is probably what it needs to normally be, so that's your bench mark. It's the potential drop you measure when the delayed slow start is occuring, that will be interesting. Regulator is there so there should always be a negligible difference. My understanding anyway. E85 fuel is one thing that can probably mess up a regular gasoline run fuel pump set up. Cause premature failure. They have special material used for all O ring seals on the vehicle. Maybe viton or something similar. Running a vehicle out of gas often can also shorten fuel pump life. Since gasoline is what lubricates and cools the in tank pump. I wonder if dealer can monitor what pressure regulator is doing when car is running, Using their special two way scanners. Question for licensed tec currently working in the trade...which I am not.