rossco

Uneven tyre wear is an instant give away that your vehicle is having suspension/steering/alignment issues and should always be rectified before fitting new tyres.
 
I personally advise that people have their alignment checked at least annually  as it is much cheaper than new tyres and excess fuel burnt over years no to mention tyres pointing in different directions on the same axle pulls your suspension to pieces and makes it drive like crap. 

My advise on this topic as a mechanic by trade would be to never just replace a sensor because a code comes up. 
 
A decent hand held scanner/diagnostic unit can show you live data in which you can see with your own eyes on the screen what percentage of open throttle  is being reported to the ecu from that sensor. Whilst observing this push the gas slowly down to the floor and watch to see if the open throttle percentage climbs as your foot goes down toward the floor. This will confirm or deny the sensors actual operation. 
 
The fact is ecus can throw codes at times just because of a momentary brain fart lol and puts the light on. Sometimes a reset is all that's required.
 
On the subject of parts im well with using breaker yard parts over aftermarket as 95% of the time you'll get a manufacturers original part from a car breaker and they do work better/last longer.
 
Always do some investigating before buying anything unless its diagnostic gear lol 

For 2013 they upgraded the brakes on Journeys and Caravans,bigger calipers,pads and rotors made a world of difference and makes one wonder why it wasnt done from day 1 of production....idiots

This is an old thread, and the original poster never returned to say what the problem turned out to be, but I have had similar noises on a couple of different vehicles, although not on our Journey. 
 
Sometimes the caliper slides become loose enough that the floating side can rotate just enough to bang back & forth against the stops when going over a bump, or through a pot hole.  When the brake is just slightly engaged, then the floating part of the caliper is held against the stop, and there is no clunking noise.  (The two vehicles I had that did this were a 98 Dodge Neon, and a 98 Chevy S-10.)

Not sure what you mean by "when drive onto a bumper", but if you are saying you hear a clunk when you drive over a bump it seems it would be more suspension related than brake related.

This may help someone so I'm just posting this here for future reference.
There are many others Chrysler Vehicles that have this problem; Caliber, Avenger, Patriot, etc.
After getting this code and doing my research I decided to tackle the problem myself. I picked up some rust remover spray as opposed to wd-40. I took off the intake manifold runner control valve to see that the springloaded solenoid gets stuck when you twist it. The actual manifold flaps itself are fine as I can twist them open and closed (about 30 degrees I can twist them). I removed the runner control valve and started spraying it inside to get the solenoid to move. Took about 1.5 hours as I let soak, resprayed, vaccumed it out and kept twisting until it was free to move. I put everything back together and put the key into the ignition and left it at 'on'. Pulled out my bluetooth obd reader and cleared the code. I did this on Dec 12 and so far no light even after the system was in testing mode and completed. Hopefully this will help someone out.

Word. If people would only educate themselves just a little bit on how emission controls function. 

It's not just condensation. The catalyst/s turn harmful gases into water and other less harmful gases like co2 in the catalysing process.  So even in zero humidity you'll get water of some amount. 

My advise on this topic as a mechanic by trade would be to never just replace a sensor because a code comes up. 
 
A decent hand held scanner/diagnostic unit can show you live data in which you can see with your own eyes on the screen what percentage of open throttle  is being reported to the ecu from that sensor. Whilst observing this push the gas slowly down to the floor and watch to see if the open throttle percentage climbs as your foot goes down toward the floor. This will confirm or deny the sensors actual operation. 
 
The fact is ecus can throw codes at times just because of a momentary brain fart lol and puts the light on. Sometimes a reset is all that's required.
 
On the subject of parts im well with using breaker yard parts over aftermarket as 95% of the time you'll get a manufacturers original part from a car breaker and they do work better/last longer.
 
Always do some investigating before buying anything unless its diagnostic gear lol 

If the isn't gas cap isn't sealing it'll be obvious next time you fill up as there will be a lack of "hiss" noise when you open the cap. 

Would also help I find you would tell us everything that you have had done already so we can stop wasting time making suggestions you've already tried. 
 
At this point I would be checking the radiator flow again as something's not right. Just because water comes out the bottom does not mean "it's fine".
 
rossco

The Dodge dealerships are gone, but servicing was picked up by Fiat. If you give them a call they should be able to get the part for you. Alternatively, eBay is your friend as there are a number of sellers on there where you can get new parts from (I had to get an actuator from Germany and the Turbo Hose from Poland). If you have the part number, should be easy to find on eBay. If you don't, call Fiat and they should be able to get the part number for you.

The first thing anyone should do who is having trouble with an automatic transmission not shifting or delaying in doing so is have the transmission fluid and filter/s changed.
 
Manual shift cars almost never need a fluid change but all automatics should have it done.
 
rossco

You don't say whether you've had the thermostat changed or not? I mentioned this in my first post. They can get "sticky" and appear to work ok at times. Removing the thermostat to discount it is a regularly used diagnostic method. 
Also the easy way checking rad in and out hose temps can indicate there is no flow due to thermostat being closed. 
 
Rossco

The first thing anyone should do who is having trouble with an automatic transmission not shifting or delaying in doing so is have the transmission fluid and filter/s changed.
 
Manual shift cars almost never need a fluid change but all automatics should have it done.
 
rossco

Check your radiator has good flow and also check the thermostat isn't sticking. Any radiator that's even partially blocked can kill engines. Could explain why your cooling fan has no issue controlling the system temperature in the city but fails on the open road as higher revs = more heat, failure to expel heat = overheat. Also check your coolant is rich enough and not had water added too many times.
 
Rossco

Hi jmz1, the fault code you mention relates to the brake light switch on the brake pedal. The switch usually has two circuits, one powers the brake lights and the other deactivates the cruise control if you hit the brake. It's common for half of the switch to break, I.e the brake lights still work but cruise function doesn't or vide versa. I would be changing that switch first as they are about £10.
cruise control probably won't function if that broken.
 
rossco