rossco

Hi there, from personal mechanic experience the only time people usually experience brakes "grabbing" is usually on the rear due to a dodgy load sensing valve which may not even be fitted to these vehicles... or badly adjusted brake shoes. if the vehicle has none of the above parts fitted I would suggest that the brakes on this vehicle are way more effiecent and therefore more sensitive than the vehicle you usually or used to drive and probably work just fine. i say this as I'm a mechanic and so regularly jump from vehicle to vehicle of which I'm not familiar with, and fairly regularly find myself about head butting the dash as some cars brakes are just way more sensitive than others. You'll notice it most from driving a real old car then a real new one, the brake pedal travel until contact happens can vary by inches hence. Rossco

Check the cv joints. Do you get a clicking noise on full lock when moving? rossco

Uneven tyre wear is an instant give away that your vehicle is having suspension/steering/alignment issues and should always be rectified before fitting new tyres. I personally advise that people have their alignment checked at least annually as it is much cheaper than new tyres and excess fuel burnt over years no to mention tyres pointing in different directions on the same axle pulls your suspension to pieces and makes it drive like crap.

Possibly exhaust heat shielding? You could check the anti roll bar drop links. If not them then check the lower arm ball joints, track rod end ball joints, arm and roll bar bushes and lastly strut top mounts. Maybe even engine or subframe mounts. Get under it and have a poke around.

I would have the rear suspension and subframe bushes checked out for play. Also if 4x4/rwd check the rear diff mount bushes. Is the exhaust maybe hitting the chassis or something? rossco

Hey, is Brembo a brand that's available in the USA? It's a big brand over here and their parts are known to be top quality and last well, I would think at least as good as manufacturers original stuff. Best thing about them being they are usually cheaper than originals and most folk here consider them an upgrade. I fit them to customers cars regularly. Rossco

Sounds to me like possibly a sensor issue. I would inspect the corner where the brake was seized on, may have caused damage to the abs sensor or something. Also with other makes and models hill start assist is often operated through a sensor in the clutch pedal or something. Although I have to say I'm slightly confused as you say no electric handbrake?

Yup second that, first things I would check would be the calliper slide pins for wear and also "if" these cars have springs in the carriers holding the brake pads then check them too as a pad that can move even 1mm will knock/clunk. Bear in mind to release the handbrake and chock the wheels before checking calliper slides for play as if the handbrakes on it'll lock the calliper and slides into place. Can anyone tell me what brake setup is on the back of these? Are they all disc/pad or are some shoe/drum or both? Rossco

Lol matey if the thing always starts in neutral but not ever/usually in park then the park position shift sensor is fubar. This part is sometimes integrated into the shift lever mechanism just under the plastic panel or sometimes on or around the gearbox itself. Im a mechanic in Scotland and yank cars aren't big here at all so not too familiar with what parts where but it'll be in one of those locations. When you try starting it in the video it does sound like a bad earth/live or failing solenoid but the fact it starts in neutral discounts all those things as long as it starts in neutral every time. Rossco

If the isn't gas cap isn't sealing it'll be obvious next time you fill up as there will be a lack of "hiss" noise when you open the cap.

My advise on this topic as a mechanic by trade would be to never just replace a sensor because a code comes up. A decent hand held scanner/diagnostic unit can show you live data in which you can see with your own eyes on the screen what percentage of open throttle is being reported to the ecu from that sensor. Whilst observing this push the gas slowly down to the floor and watch to see if the open throttle percentage climbs as your foot goes down toward the floor. This will confirm or deny the sensors actual operation. The fact is ecus can throw codes at times just because of a momentary brain fart lol and puts the light on. Sometimes a reset is all that's required. On the subject of parts im well with using breaker yard parts over aftermarket as 95% of the time you'll get a manufacturers original part from a car breaker and they do work better/last longer. Always do some investigating before buying anything unless its diagnostic gear lol

It's not just condensation. The catalyst/s turn harmful gases into water and other less harmful gases like co2 in the catalysing process. So even in zero humidity you'll get water of some amount.

Hey, thanks for the tip. This is the first dodge I've ever worked on so it's been interesting. Never knew fiathad picked up the slack lol, though I know them and Chrysler are one or something similar. Should help me get somewhere as I couldn't get anything here for it. Had to get the map sensor from Italy lol. rossco

Would also help I find you would tell us everything that you have had done already so we can stop wasting time making suggestions you've already tried. At this point I would be checking the radiator flow again as something's not right. Just because water comes out the bottom does not mean "it's fine". rossco

Oh and I realised after looking at this one that they don't appear to have a fuel rail pressure sensor so I guess they must follow a map that "assumes" there is a consistent constant fuel pressure so a blocked fuel filter and low pressure will mess up its fuelling etc and easily throw all sorts of codes while the ecu try's to figure what's going on.

Hey, well I'm glad your running right again as that's the most important thing. It seems they didn't last long in the uk and I can't seem to find any dodge dealerships around here anywhere. In fact can't even get my hands on an auto box fluid filter which is a long term service item funnily enough. Yeah diesel filters catch all sorts including water. Seen all sorts of funny looking gunk come out them too. Rossco

The first thing anyone should do who is having trouble with an automatic transmission not shifting or delaying in doing so is have the transmission fluid and filter/s changed. Manual shift cars almost never need a fluid change but all automatics should have it done. rossco

You don't say whether you've had the thermostat changed or not? I mentioned this in my first post. They can get "sticky" and appear to work ok at times. Removing the thermostat to discount it is a regularly used diagnostic method. Also the easy way checking rad in and out hose temps can indicate there is no flow due to thermostat being closed. Rossco

Wow, thanks to op for posting this, I've just figured out why this 2008 crd 2.0 won't go either then. It's reporting two shift forks stuck. Never knew the gearbox could stop the engine revving or accelerating. Ill be off to do box filters and fluid first then and maybe solenoids in the box if that don't cure it. Cheers, rossco

Check your radiator has good flow and also check the thermostat isn't sticking. Any radiator that's even partially blocked can kill engines. Could explain why your cooling fan has no issue controlling the system temperature in the city but fails on the open road as higher revs = more heat, failure to expel heat = overheat. Also check your coolant is rich enough and not had water added too many times. Rossco

Sweet, probably the diesel filter then? Too much air not enough fuel? rossco

lol I'm talking about the ps hoses that people are complaining about not coolant hoses. Most ps systems use a mixture of hoses and pipes. Lots of people here are complaining about ps hp and return hoses bursting. A lot of those can likely be replaced with piping. Only the hp pump to the rack or the end of the return line need to be hoses to take up any movement. For example most of the ps pipework on a Mondeo is pipes rather than hoses. Rossco

Oh should have added, I see what your saying about the fuel pressure maybe being low but these common rail diesels have fuel rail pressure sensors so they take fuel pressure into account. So in theory when it sees low fuel pressure I'd expect its diesel injection pulse to be minutely lengthened to compensate. To be honest looking at the fuel rail pressures on live data and the stored logs would answer this very quickly. Rossco

Hey, no problem I hope I can be helpful. The fuel filter being blocked if it is can cause all sorts of strange running issues in my experience and may have something to do with the problem. They are a cheap item and usually easy to change so definitely worth a first punt. Just be sure if you do it yourself to fill the new diesel filter/housing with diesel before installation or it'll run for one min then die and not restart. As for the aux belt and timing belt I don't see them causing an overboost issue. Even if the aux belt had been slipping and not turning the alternator you'd get a low voltage code and it seems you haven't. Also even if the timing belt had slipped or stretched it would run strange most or all of the time. They are both important belts so your right to get them done ASAP as they will save you sitting at the side of the road awaiting a tow home and a potentially large bill. Personally if it was me I would check the turbo first as it easy and free. Probably only requires a screw driver or small spanner/socket. If the is turbo fine then I would look at the live data. There will be freeze frames stored in the cars memory of the moment when the overboost happens and the fault code was logged. Looking at these may give away if a sensor I.e map sensor was acting up. Also running the engine whilst observing the maf map etc readings may give away a bad sensor. Those results would dictate the next move. Seen a golf 1.9 or 2.0 tdi that overboosted constantly and went into limo mode and it's turbo was shot as it was over spinning up to 22 psi boost lol. Basically when it comes to turbo boost the system relies on certain sensors and actuators to control how much boost is produced. The maf, map, air temp, engine load etc are all taken into account when metering diesel injection with forced induction. Rossco

WHy not replace the return hose with a copper pipe? Whatever the diameter is there should be something that can be made up. We replace steel pipes with copper in the U.K. A lot because the weathers sh**e and the authorities pour salt all over the road when it snows which rots everything fast.