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P2017 Cleared but still shows


LKMS

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Few days while driving, I notice the engine light come up. So I got home and pulled out my OBD2 reader and got the P2017 code.

P2017 Intake Manifold Runner Position Sensor/Switch Circuit High Bank 1 so you have to check ODB-II Engine trouble code list

I looked into it and decided i'll look under the hood tomorrow. The next morning I opened up the hood and I actually had to put in a new air filter. So I took out the old one cleaned inside and put the new one. I start up the car, engine light still on. Drove around and in the evening I turned on the car again, the engine light is gone. So I pulled out the OBD2 and it still said it had the P2017 code. So I tried clearing it and it did say successful. However, the OBD2 still reads the P2017 error. Any ideas?

I'm hoping to check out the intake manifold actuator as it looks easy to access. I've read it can be either the actuator or the intake manifold itself

Edited by LKMS
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If it's the runner actuators, you should notice the power feels weak at certain RPMs. The runners open and close for the high and low rpm stages. Low end torque vs high end hp...

Have you noticed and difference in power?

Folks correct me if I'm wrong on the dual stage intake thing.

Nope, took it on the highway and local; felt normal like how it did before the engine light came on.

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  • 1 month later...

This may help someone so I'm just posting this here for future reference.

There are many others Chrysler Vehicles that have this problem; Caliber, Avenger, Patriot, etc.

After getting this code and doing my research I decided to tackle the problem myself. I picked up some rust remover spray as opposed to wd-40. I took off the intake manifold runner control valve to see that the springloaded solenoid gets stuck when you twist it. The actual manifold flaps itself are fine as I can twist them open and closed (about 30 degrees I can twist them). I removed the runner control valve and started spraying it inside to get the solenoid to move. Took about 1.5 hours as I let soak, resprayed, vaccumed it out and kept twisting until it was free to move. I put everything back together and put the key into the ignition and left it at 'on'. Pulled out my bluetooth obd reader and cleared the code. I did this on Dec 12 and so far no light even after the system was in testing mode and completed. Hopefully this will help someone out.

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