NavalLacrosse

The Oil-life-meter of FCA is based entirely on empirical information, not on oil sampling. 

The factors include:
Mileage:  drive too far, you'll need oil change
Manifold Pressure (which relates to engine power output): if you have higher than average oil/manifold pressure, you're either towing or driving in the mountains; change oil more frequently.
Engine Hours: idle for extended periods of time? change that oil sooner.

By default, the clock is set to 7,000 miles- then the driving habits of the operator extend or reduce the time before the next change. 
usually the variance is +/- 1000 miles.

Chevrolet and Toyota does viscosity and quality testing of the oil in the engine (meaning if you use bad oil, the car should notice). FCA does 'close enough' pretty well. I can't complain.
 

I have a 2017 SXT I bought new in early 2018.  When it was 9 months old, the battery was stone dead after being parked 6 days.  The dealer blamed the dashcam, even though the outlet is switched.  After charging it for 1/2 a day so it could be tested, they said nothing was wrong with the battery.  They were nice and didn't charge me $140 for no fault found.  The very next morning, it was stone dead again.  Rather than waste another day and potentially pay $140 for nothing, I just bought a new battery on my dime.  No problem since, and I do leave the dashcam plugged in.

maybe a bad connection at the battery but i would almost lay odds he will be back in a couple of days

Seems that disconnecting the battery for 30 minutes is like FCA's cure-all fix:
 
Brake pads shuttering when used at high speed? - - try disconnecting the negative terminal for 30 minutes.
low of wiper fluid? - - just disconnect the negative terminal, the warning light goes out.
That other driver gave you a dirty look? - - tell them to disconnect their negative terminal, and shove it up their bum.

Anyway, dumb jokes aside
Hope your issue is resolved soon. Best of luck OP

Welcome to the forums.
I was discouraged from buying mine too early on by the internets mob mentality for hating the DJ -- but in the end, it was the test drive (and the price tag) that sold it. My wife likes it a lot too, but she's always thinking it's too long for her to easily park it in reverese (ours doesn't have a backup camera).  Not a bad for the 'only complaint'.

Nice hot air intake!

I noticed this issue too when I changed my rear brake pads. 

When I bought the car, there were no issues (that I noticed).
 
After I changed the rear pads and rotors, I noticed immediately the same issue- exactly as OP describes. 
I thought the cause to be one of two things:
1) When compressing the rear caliper, I used a c-clamp... and really pressed it hard. it wasn't till later I rented the turning brake tool.
2) after the job, I decided to bleed the brakes with my dad. We ingested air at the reservoir, and re-compressed the caliber to force the air out the top, which seemed to work.

Took the car on the road for the first time and knew something was wrong. Exactly as described- derivable with no issues, but the pedal just slowly sinks to the floor if i press my foot on it while stopped.

I've just learned to ignore it. I'll bleed the whole system one day via a mechanic, but until then it's so subtle I'll just keep driving it.

I noticed this issue too when I changed my rear brake pads. 

When I bought the car, there were no issues (that I noticed).
 
After I changed the rear pads and rotors, I noticed immediately the same issue- exactly as OP describes. 
I thought the cause to be one of two things:
1) When compressing the rear caliper, I used a c-clamp... and really pressed it hard. it wasn't till later I rented the turning brake tool.
2) after the job, I decided to bleed the brakes with my dad. We ingested air at the reservoir, and re-compressed the caliber to force the air out the top, which seemed to work.

Took the car on the road for the first time and knew something was wrong. Exactly as described- derivable with no issues, but the pedal just slowly sinks to the floor if i press my foot on it while stopped.

I've just learned to ignore it. I'll bleed the whole system one day via a mechanic, but until then it's so subtle I'll just keep driving it.

This very well could be contributing to your other issue regarding the driver's AC not working. Electrical issues are where I just sit it out. 

was this car in a flood?

I'm no expert, and I'm unfamiliar with the 2010. I don't have a solution, but what I'd do is systematically troubleshoot the problem with the following methods to see if you can isolate the issue: 
 
Assuming you're referring to thermal issues: 
Is the heat fully controllable on both sides (when the A/C is off)?
 
With the A/C off and the temp selectors both at cold and with a hot engine, are you able to get ambient temp air out of all vents? can the heat be controlled manually at all temp levels levels (when with no-AC, no-Auto). If it's not uniform, then the issue may remains blend valve; maybe there is derbies preventing it from closing all the way.

With the AC-ON and Auto-OFF, can you get all the vents to blow cold air at max setting with a cold engine... how about with a hot engine? try this: with the engine COLD, turn AC-on [max cold], Non-Auto. does it produce cold air at all vents?, - - now, with the engine hot, try AC-on[max cold], Non-Auto: Does this produces uniform cooling? If it's uneven, then it's still likely a problem with the blend valve.
 
does this issue only happen when AUTO mode is on? if only when auto mode on, then I think it's the driver's side cabin thermometer is faulty or may have cold air blowing on it causing it to incorrectly guess the cabin temp on the driver's side.

Good luck! 

 

This very well could be contributing to your other issue regarding the driver's AC not working. Electrical issues are where I just sit it out. 

was this car in a flood?

Why not ask a dealer or wreckers? They would be able to tell you for sure but I think the bell housing might be different on those two engines though

Totally normal, (not that it's pleasant by any means) This is the case for nearly all high-quality modern cars, trucks, SUV's Minivans. Older cars did not have this issue because of poorly sealer doors/panels.

Just learn the ideal amount of front window needed to kill the reverberations: 
usually an inch cracked in the front is enough to null out the pressure surges, and provide a mild breeze in the cabin. (opening the sun roof too, has the same nullifying effect)

Moved to the correct section. NavalLacrosse gave you some excellent starting points. Good luck!

Cars come with a parking/E brake for this reason. Use the e-brake pedal (left side of driver's foot well) to prevent the car from moving. Doesn't hurt to use brick behind/in-front of  the wheels too.

Can you turn off, and take the key out of the ignition when the shifter's is in park? (with your foot on the brake): Can the car start?
Are you sure the car is in true neutral, and not still in drive? with the engine off, the torque converter will feel like neutral at low speeds.
Does the dashboard indicate the PRNDL changing, even though the car seems in neutral?
is the electrical system working (radio, headlights, ect) 
Just for fun, try the old' trick of disconnecting the battery for 30 minutes; See if this gives the transmission a second wind... 

If it was me, I'd get it on a tow truck and take it to the nearest decent family-owned transmission shop.
Might be big repair, but if the car didn't indicate any issues, it might be a issue with the shift lever, or it's push-rod that move the transmission in and out of gear.
 

Cars come with a parking/E brake for this reason. Use the e-brake pedal (left side of driver's foot well) to prevent the car from moving. Doesn't hurt to use brick behind/in-front of  the wheels too.

Can you turn off, and take the key out of the ignition when the shifter's is in park? (with your foot on the brake): Can the car start?
Are you sure the car is in true neutral, and not still in drive? with the engine off, the torque converter will feel like neutral at low speeds.
Does the dashboard indicate the PRNDL changing, even though the car seems in neutral?
is the electrical system working (radio, headlights, ect) 
Just for fun, try the old' trick of disconnecting the battery for 30 minutes; See if this gives the transmission a second wind... 

If it was me, I'd get it on a tow truck and take it to the nearest decent family-owned transmission shop.
Might be big repair, but if the car didn't indicate any issues, it might be a issue with the shift lever, or it's push-rod that move the transmission in and out of gear.
 

Cars come with a parking/E brake for this reason. Use the e-brake pedal (left side of driver's foot well) to prevent the car from moving. Doesn't hurt to use brick behind/in-front of  the wheels too.

Can you turn off, and take the key out of the ignition when the shifter's is in park? (with your foot on the brake): Can the car start?
Are you sure the car is in true neutral, and not still in drive? with the engine off, the torque converter will feel like neutral at low speeds.
Does the dashboard indicate the PRNDL changing, even though the car seems in neutral?
is the electrical system working (radio, headlights, ect) 
Just for fun, try the old' trick of disconnecting the battery for 30 minutes; See if this gives the transmission a second wind... 

If it was me, I'd get it on a tow truck and take it to the nearest decent family-owned transmission shop.
Might be big repair, but if the car didn't indicate any issues, it might be a issue with the shift lever, or it's push-rod that move the transmission in and out of gear.
 

Cars come with a parking/E brake for this reason. Use the e-brake pedal (left side of driver's foot well) to prevent the car from moving. Doesn't hurt to use brick behind/in-front of  the wheels too.

Can you turn off, and take the key out of the ignition when the shifter's is in park? (with your foot on the brake): Can the car start?
Are you sure the car is in true neutral, and not still in drive? with the engine off, the torque converter will feel like neutral at low speeds.
Does the dashboard indicate the PRNDL changing, even though the car seems in neutral?
is the electrical system working (radio, headlights, ect) 
Just for fun, try the old' trick of disconnecting the battery for 30 minutes; See if this gives the transmission a second wind... 

If it was me, I'd get it on a tow truck and take it to the nearest decent family-owned transmission shop.
Might be big repair, but if the car didn't indicate any issues, it might be a issue with the shift lever, or it's push-rod that move the transmission in and out of gear.
 

Cars come with a parking/E brake for this reason. Use the e-brake pedal (left side of driver's foot well) to prevent the car from moving. Doesn't hurt to use brick behind/in-front of  the wheels too.

Can you turn off, and take the key out of the ignition when the shifter's is in park? (with your foot on the brake): Can the car start?
Are you sure the car is in true neutral, and not still in drive? with the engine off, the torque converter will feel like neutral at low speeds.
Does the dashboard indicate the PRNDL changing, even though the car seems in neutral?
is the electrical system working (radio, headlights, ect) 
Just for fun, try the old' trick of disconnecting the battery for 30 minutes; See if this gives the transmission a second wind... 

If it was me, I'd get it on a tow truck and take it to the nearest decent family-owned transmission shop.
Might be big repair, but if the car didn't indicate any issues, it might be a issue with the shift lever, or it's push-rod that move the transmission in and out of gear.
 

I should mention, regarding battery issues: 
I encountered the issue; replaced the battery with a Walmart battery myself (the service team 'refused' to work on the DJ). IT FAILED IN 1 month- same issues as you described again. Replaced the battery with a better one- and the issue has been gone 20k more miles.

I should mention, regarding battery issues: 
I encountered the issue; replaced the battery with a Walmart battery myself (the service team 'refused' to work on the DJ). IT FAILED IN 1 month- same issues as you described again. Replaced the battery with a better one- and the issue has been gone 20k more miles.

I have noticed that about every couple of weeks I have to re-set my clock because it is running ahead about 5 minutes of the real time. Anyone else having this issue?

Closing your duplicate thread before you insult someone else. Thank you for sharing. 

Before you go chasing the electrical gremlins, keep it simple:
Does it start when you jump it?  Have you Swapped the battery with a new one?

I was suffering from issues similar to what you described; I feared the worse.
Ultimately, just replacing the battery with a new battery solved all the issues (radio crashing, failure to start, failure to sustain power, fob not detected, BT failure)

Dodge Journey is known for having many electrical gremlins show up when the battery START failing.

Before you go chasing the electrical gremlins, keep it simple:
Does it start when you jump it?  Have you Swapped the battery with a new one?

I was suffering from issues similar to what you described; I feared the worse.
Ultimately, just replacing the battery with a new battery solved all the issues (radio crashing, failure to start, failure to sustain power, fob not detected, BT failure)

Dodge Journey is known for having many electrical gremlins show up when the battery START failing.