NavalLacrosse

Journey owners 2011-19: Our interiors look modern, therefore our cars are better!

Journey owner 2008-2010: [Tows small travel trailer]
 
Journey owners 2011-19: [Sobs silently]

Journey owners 2011-19: Our interiors look modern, therefore our cars are better!

Journey owner 2008-2010: [Tows small travel trailer]
 
Journey owners 2011-19: [Sobs silently]

I may sound a bit mean with this next sentence, [I'm not a mechanic, so I could be totally wrong, and there could be any number of electrical issues that are impossible to diagnose] but:
 
The 08 Journey is not an overly complex car; I'm really concerned about the skill set of this mechanic you've hired.
 
I'd take it to another mechanic, and tell them to fix it,
Then, (If applicable) after they resolve the issue:
Ask the new(better) mechanic to tell you what was actually wrong, and take that info to the first mechanic, and tell them to refund you the money they might have cheated you out of, or at least return you the parts they took off the car so you can sell them online to recuperate the lost money. For some reason i'm feeling extra skeptical today.
 
 
----Anyway,-----
From your story, It sounds like either a battery issue, charging system issue, or a battery cable issue. Never sounded like a Starter issue, because you said that it started when you jumped the car the first time.
 
Diagnosing a failing alternator, or dying battery is some one the most basic skills of a modern mechanic, Which is why I'm skeptical the mechanic changed the starter motor, even though the car was able to start just days earlier when jumped.
 
If you're the type of person who likes detective work, you can try some simple tests with a volt meter, and 
Make logical conclusions about what's wrong.
 
1) When the car is OFF, check the battery voltage with a volt meter. It should be 12v.
If the battery is indicating low voltage (like 5 volts or lower, for example) indicates you'll need another NEW battery (try to take it back to the manufacturer, and get a free replacement while under warranty). Even brand new batteries can be defective, this is why they come with warranties.

2) If the battery is OK (at 12 volts) then, try jumping the car: 
If the car starts, and sounds normal while running, then the started motor and it's relays are functional. 

3) With the car engine running, disconnect the jumper cable. Measure the battery voltage after 1 minute. It should be 13+ volts, indicating that the alternator IS making some effort to charge the system.
If the voltage is still at 12, or 11, or 10 volts, then this indicates that the charging system is having problems.
 
bonus 4) Additionally, let the car run for 20 minutes without jumper cables attached. Then, turn off the car. Then, measure the voltage. If the battery voltage is LESS than in step 1, it is evidence of a charging system/battery main cable corrosion. 
Charging system might not be providing enough amps to charge the battery, or: The cables from the battery to the car are corroded/damaged.
 
Good luck, and 
yeah, find another mechanic, and let them fix it. 

I may sound a bit mean with this next sentence, [I'm not a mechanic, so I could be totally wrong, and there could be any number of electrical issues that are impossible to diagnose] but:
 
The 08 Journey is not an overly complex car; I'm really concerned about the skill set of this mechanic you've hired.
 
I'd take it to another mechanic, and tell them to fix it,
Then, (If applicable) after they resolve the issue:
Ask the new(better) mechanic to tell you what was actually wrong, and take that info to the first mechanic, and tell them to refund you the money they might have cheated you out of, or at least return you the parts they took off the car so you can sell them online to recuperate the lost money. For some reason i'm feeling extra skeptical today.
 
 
----Anyway,-----
From your story, It sounds like either a battery issue, charging system issue, or a battery cable issue. Never sounded like a Starter issue, because you said that it started when you jumped the car the first time.
 
Diagnosing a failing alternator, or dying battery is some one the most basic skills of a modern mechanic, Which is why I'm skeptical the mechanic changed the starter motor, even though the car was able to start just days earlier when jumped.
 
If you're the type of person who likes detective work, you can try some simple tests with a volt meter, and 
Make logical conclusions about what's wrong.
 
1) When the car is OFF, check the battery voltage with a volt meter. It should be 12v.
If the battery is indicating low voltage (like 5 volts or lower, for example) indicates you'll need another NEW battery (try to take it back to the manufacturer, and get a free replacement while under warranty). Even brand new batteries can be defective, this is why they come with warranties.

2) If the battery is OK (at 12 volts) then, try jumping the car: 
If the car starts, and sounds normal while running, then the started motor and it's relays are functional. 

3) With the car engine running, disconnect the jumper cable. Measure the battery voltage after 1 minute. It should be 13+ volts, indicating that the alternator IS making some effort to charge the system.
If the voltage is still at 12, or 11, or 10 volts, then this indicates that the charging system is having problems.
 
bonus 4) Additionally, let the car run for 20 minutes without jumper cables attached. Then, turn off the car. Then, measure the voltage. If the battery voltage is LESS than in step 1, it is evidence of a charging system/battery main cable corrosion. 
Charging system might not be providing enough amps to charge the battery, or: The cables from the battery to the car are corroded/damaged.
 
Good luck, and 
yeah, find another mechanic, and let them fix it. 

I may sound a bit mean with this next sentence, [I'm not a mechanic, so I could be totally wrong, and there could be any number of electrical issues that are impossible to diagnose] but:
 
The 08 Journey is not an overly complex car; I'm really concerned about the skill set of this mechanic you've hired.
 
I'd take it to another mechanic, and tell them to fix it,
Then, (If applicable) after they resolve the issue:
Ask the new(better) mechanic to tell you what was actually wrong, and take that info to the first mechanic, and tell them to refund you the money they might have cheated you out of, or at least return you the parts they took off the car so you can sell them online to recuperate the lost money. For some reason i'm feeling extra skeptical today.
 
 
----Anyway,-----
From your story, It sounds like either a battery issue, charging system issue, or a battery cable issue. Never sounded like a Starter issue, because you said that it started when you jumped the car the first time.
 
Diagnosing a failing alternator, or dying battery is some one the most basic skills of a modern mechanic, Which is why I'm skeptical the mechanic changed the starter motor, even though the car was able to start just days earlier when jumped.
 
If you're the type of person who likes detective work, you can try some simple tests with a volt meter, and 
Make logical conclusions about what's wrong.
 
1) When the car is OFF, check the battery voltage with a volt meter. It should be 12v.
If the battery is indicating low voltage (like 5 volts or lower, for example) indicates you'll need another NEW battery (try to take it back to the manufacturer, and get a free replacement while under warranty). Even brand new batteries can be defective, this is why they come with warranties.

2) If the battery is OK (at 12 volts) then, try jumping the car: 
If the car starts, and sounds normal while running, then the started motor and it's relays are functional. 

3) With the car engine running, disconnect the jumper cable. Measure the battery voltage after 1 minute. It should be 13+ volts, indicating that the alternator IS making some effort to charge the system.
If the voltage is still at 12, or 11, or 10 volts, then this indicates that the charging system is having problems.
 
bonus 4) Additionally, let the car run for 20 minutes without jumper cables attached. Then, turn off the car. Then, measure the voltage. If the battery voltage is LESS than in step 1, it is evidence of a charging system/battery main cable corrosion. 
Charging system might not be providing enough amps to charge the battery, or: The cables from the battery to the car are corroded/damaged.
 
Good luck, and 
yeah, find another mechanic, and let them fix it. 

These responses are great! Thanks, community, for such a detailed overview; when the weather warms up i'll 1st) adjusting the spacing to see if that fixes the soft pedal, then 2nd, bleed them totally, to solve the problem. I rent the proper tool for free from autozone, $60 deposit

I may sound a bit mean with this next sentence, [I'm not a mechanic, so I could be totally wrong, and there could be any number of electrical issues that are impossible to diagnose] but:
 
The 08 Journey is not an overly complex car; I'm really concerned about the skill set of this mechanic you've hired.
 
I'd take it to another mechanic, and tell them to fix it,
Then, (If applicable) after they resolve the issue:
Ask the new(better) mechanic to tell you what was actually wrong, and take that info to the first mechanic, and tell them to refund you the money they might have cheated you out of, or at least return you the parts they took off the car so you can sell them online to recuperate the lost money. For some reason i'm feeling extra skeptical today.
 
 
----Anyway,-----
From your story, It sounds like either a battery issue, charging system issue, or a battery cable issue. Never sounded like a Starter issue, because you said that it started when you jumped the car the first time.
 
Diagnosing a failing alternator, or dying battery is some one the most basic skills of a modern mechanic, Which is why I'm skeptical the mechanic changed the starter motor, even though the car was able to start just days earlier when jumped.
 
If you're the type of person who likes detective work, you can try some simple tests with a volt meter, and 
Make logical conclusions about what's wrong.
 
1) When the car is OFF, check the battery voltage with a volt meter. It should be 12v.
If the battery is indicating low voltage (like 5 volts or lower, for example) indicates you'll need another NEW battery (try to take it back to the manufacturer, and get a free replacement while under warranty). Even brand new batteries can be defective, this is why they come with warranties.

2) If the battery is OK (at 12 volts) then, try jumping the car: 
If the car starts, and sounds normal while running, then the started motor and it's relays are functional. 

3) With the car engine running, disconnect the jumper cable. Measure the battery voltage after 1 minute. It should be 13+ volts, indicating that the alternator IS making some effort to charge the system.
If the voltage is still at 12, or 11, or 10 volts, then this indicates that the charging system is having problems.
 
bonus 4) Additionally, let the car run for 20 minutes without jumper cables attached. Then, turn off the car. Then, measure the voltage. If the battery voltage is LESS than in step 1, it is evidence of a charging system/battery main cable corrosion. 
Charging system might not be providing enough amps to charge the battery, or: The cables from the battery to the car are corroded/damaged.
 
Good luck, and 
yeah, find another mechanic, and let them fix it. 

I've found this too - https://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/stock-problems-issues/229045-another-spongy-brake-thread-after-replacing-pads-rotors.html
Quote - Well, I now know why no one ever posts the resolution to this... because they're too embarrassed as to the resolution. It was the brake pads installed incorrectly. When I did the rears, I picked up two pads and they looked identical so I thought they were universal. Installed those 2, then looked at the other side, yep, identical. What I didn't realize was that I put two inner pads on one side, and two outer pads on the other side. Sooo... fixed the pads. Brakes work perfectly now! Yes, we all have dumb moments.
Hopefully my admittance of stupidity will help some other poor fool out.
 
Probably this is for the front ones.

Failure analysis:
Thinking back through the events when I replaced the rear pads, I remembered that the driver's side rear caliper was the first one I worked on. I had tried to use the universal cube tool to reset the pistons and I realized that I was turning the piston the wrong way. I ended up backing the piston out of the bore to the point where it became cocked. There must have been enough of an air gap to admit a large quantity of air into the cylinder, causing the loss of pedal firmness and authority.

Lessons learned:
Use the proper tools (i.e.: not the useless "cube" tool) for resetting the calipers.
 
so it was the mechanics fault NOT the useless tool that turned the piston the WRONG way, by the way i use that same useless cube when i work on my journey and other vehicle that it fits ,,,LOL it works correctly every time for me,you must have got a defective one i would assume

I know my seat is a little weird in normal operation. I don't know if it's a defect, but when I adjust and recline and then try and get set up, occasionally one side's clasp doesn't lock 100%. Usually when I shuffle my butt and rock in the seat the lose side clicks into 100% clasp=locked position. 

I'm no NSTB investigator, but my working theory is:
[The following is pure speculation:]
Maybe the RH(right hand) recliner clasp wasn't %100 engaged due to otherwise normal wear and tear/low build quality. During the impact, the g-force  of the driver's mass (must have been a hell of a hit) pushed into the seat hard: The force reclined the RH side rearward because the clasp was only '50% latched', as opposed to the LH side clasp was 100% latched  and didn't move an inch. After the impact, the clasp re-engaged at %100 in the new position (the same way a driver normally wiggles their but in the seat to engage the reclining clasp, in normal use). The toque on the seat's internals are acting like a spring, and are putting LOTS of pressure (in opposite directions) on the two claps- and just like pressure on a house door's deadbolt make it difficult to unlock, this force will make pulling the recliner lever difficult, and it won't be sufficient to release the either of the clasps to return the seat back to it's upright position- and even if you did apply sufficient leverage  (via putting forward pressure on the LH side, or downward on the RH side of the seat back) to free the clasps, ... the seat is probably be so twisted, neither clasp will be in alignment again - making it a safety hazard prone to repeat this kind of deformation again in a repeat accident.

TL:DR; 
1) If you repair this car yourself, Don't reuse the seat unless you accept the risk of this happening again to you. 2) Secondly, don't don't repair and resell the car with this original seat, knowing that such an accident could occur again, hurting the spine/back an unknowing occupant. It's Unethical, and their injury or death would be you saving a few bucks by reusing the damaged seat.  
 

Please follow up your window fog problem, in the proper thread, if the solution works for you.

You MAD-LAD! 

The community could use more description of the sound-
 
My questions are (for diagnosis):
 
If it's related to the speed of the car, or the speed of the engine?
Does the thumping get faster with speed?
Have you isolated it's location? (perhaps it's a single wheel... test by driving slowly with the windows down one at a time)
Does it make the noise only while turning left or right?
Does it go silent when the brakes are applied even while in motion still.? 
Can you feel the thumping in the steering?
 
Have you looked under the car?; Is there a heavy duty plastic bag wrapped around the drive axle, or something similar to that? 
Is part of the seatbelt hanging out of the car? (yes, sounds stupid but it got me once!)
 
Just trying to locate the issue, then rule out the simplest causes first.
 
 

... After giving jump starts? sounds like the car wont crank under normal conditions too?

I give this advice more often than I should, 
But:
 
(This  is the band-aid of fixes)
1) 30 minute reset:
Disconnect the Neg terminal where it bolts to the body, there is a lovely plastic holder FCA designed for this exact purpose of holding the Neg line away from the body. 
Let sit 30+ minutes, then plug it back in. Issue temperately solved?
 
(This is the 'what worked for me' fix)
2) Consider changing the Battery, before going crazy with the What-ifs? of the internet.
When the battery is anything less than 90% (figurative) health, the Electrical Gremlins show up- I'm serious. Everything from frozen, to totally off, touchscreens. (or volume knob that says 'time for max volume') wireless key warnings, Bluetooth failing to connect, the gauges at 140mph and 9k revs while the TPMS light is on.... all while the engine struggles to maintain even a foot-on-gas idle...and the stutters to death.... 
Took mine on a "what do i have to lose" trip to goodyear, and for $165 or so out the door I had a new battery and a car that's gone 30k miles without a single electrical gremlin.--- 
 
Mine's a 2011 Crew, with the 4.8" mini touchscreen.
 
Best of luck
 
 
 
 

The community could use more description of the sound-
 
My questions are (for diagnosis):
 
If it's related to the speed of the car, or the speed of the engine?
Does the thumping get faster with speed?
Have you isolated it's location? (perhaps it's a single wheel... test by driving slowly with the windows down one at a time)
Does it make the noise only while turning left or right?
Does it go silent when the brakes are applied even while in motion still.? 
Can you feel the thumping in the steering?
 
Have you looked under the car?; Is there a heavy duty plastic bag wrapped around the drive axle, or something similar to that? 
Is part of the seatbelt hanging out of the car? (yes, sounds stupid but it got me once!)
 
Just trying to locate the issue, then rule out the simplest causes first.
 
 

... After giving jump starts? sounds like the car wont crank under normal conditions too?

I give this advice more often than I should, 
But:
 
(This  is the band-aid of fixes)
1) 30 minute reset:
Disconnect the Neg terminal where it bolts to the body, there is a lovely plastic holder FCA designed for this exact purpose of holding the Neg line away from the body. 
Let sit 30+ minutes, then plug it back in. Issue temperately solved?
 
(This is the 'what worked for me' fix)
2) Consider changing the Battery, before going crazy with the What-ifs? of the internet.
When the battery is anything less than 90% (figurative) health, the Electrical Gremlins show up- I'm serious. Everything from frozen, to totally off, touchscreens. (or volume knob that says 'time for max volume') wireless key warnings, Bluetooth failing to connect, the gauges at 140mph and 9k revs while the TPMS light is on.... all while the engine struggles to maintain even a foot-on-gas idle...and the stutters to death.... 
Took mine on a "what do i have to lose" trip to goodyear, and for $165 or so out the door I had a new battery and a car that's gone 30k miles without a single electrical gremlin.--- 
 
Mine's a 2011 Crew, with the 4.8" mini touchscreen.
 
Best of luck
 
 
 
 

The community could use more description of the sound-
 
My questions are (for diagnosis):
 
If it's related to the speed of the car, or the speed of the engine?
Does the thumping get faster with speed?
Have you isolated it's location? (perhaps it's a single wheel... test by driving slowly with the windows down one at a time)
Does it make the noise only while turning left or right?
Does it go silent when the brakes are applied even while in motion still.? 
Can you feel the thumping in the steering?
 
Have you looked under the car?; Is there a heavy duty plastic bag wrapped around the drive axle, or something similar to that? 
Is part of the seatbelt hanging out of the car? (yes, sounds stupid but it got me once!)
 
Just trying to locate the issue, then rule out the simplest causes first.
 
 

The community could use more description of the sound-
 
My questions are (for diagnosis):
 
If it's related to the speed of the car, or the speed of the engine?
Does the thumping get faster with speed?
Have you isolated it's location? (perhaps it's a single wheel... test by driving slowly with the windows down one at a time)
Does it make the noise only while turning left or right?
Does it go silent when the brakes are applied even while in motion still.? 
Can you feel the thumping in the steering?
 
Have you looked under the car?; Is there a heavy duty plastic bag wrapped around the drive axle, or something similar to that? 
Is part of the seatbelt hanging out of the car? (yes, sounds stupid but it got me once!)
 
Just trying to locate the issue, then rule out the simplest causes first.
 
 

Much easier for me to open the hood and turn a wrench than it is to try and contortion myself in order to see which fuse needs to come out from under the glove box. But, to each his own. 

HAha. Thanks for the levity you two. Jeffinva did you ever get your radio screen issue resolved? I'll get some help with trying the negative terminal and if that doesn't work will call the dealer.

Jeffinva posted once 6 months ago, doubt he is actively on the boards to answer your question. You can try disconnecting the negative terminal and see what happens. Use the jump terminal located on the strut tower in the engine bay. The actual battery is in the wheel well and tough to get at.
As a side note, do you have any warranty left? If so, my next step would be taking it to the dealer.

I'm new here, searched and searched and searched for a topic likes this. And since I know nothing about forums I ended up on one for 'navigation' systems and it was kindly suggested I get off there and find the proper topic . So I'm very glad to have come across this one. I have a 2012 Journey and my touch screen also went blank. Exact same as jeffinva from the above posting. I see dhh3 has posted a suggestion in regards to t disconnecting the negative terminal for a 1/2 hour or so. Do you mean the negative post on the battery? Sorry if that seems like a stupid question but I'm kind of flying solo on this (and female) so want to make sure I have that straight. Jeffinva did you try that suggestion and did you have any results? Or what did you end up doing with your issue? Thanks!

Disconnect the negative terminal for at least /2 hour for radio issues. This should reset the radio. There is a small battery, so you shouldn't lose any of your presets.

can you find the fender pre-painted from a junk yard?

Yeah, 
Like I said, I work at GM in Detroit, and it's really the saddest thing. I'm a big fan of Ford's design language- which is why I spend all of my day making our [GM's] future cars better than theirs from a stylistic standpoint! haha.