OhareFred

welcome to the group. hope you got a hell of a deal on it?only time ive ever been in a limp home mode was a caravan and it was due to a transmission senor gone bad some codes you need a special code reader,,,first off if you are not sure of the maintenance on it, i would put in some new plugs, might help, then get some one that can read the codes and can do the repairs if you cant do it,,,good luck 

I threw in the towel. I’d been trying to get it to start all morning with no luck. I called a mechanic I know who has exponentially more knowledge than my pitiful excuse for amateur knowledge, and he sent a tow truck. It’s now in the hands of the professionals. I will update when he’s done diagnosing the issue. 

I have an 09 with 3 row and have the in floor storage bins….may have dc’d them on later models,idk

Just clicking is usually a sign of a weak/bad battery.  Could also be a starter relay, bad ground, bad starter…

hmm, hate to say but it might be easier just to get a girlfriend with a newer car...LOL just kidding

This has been mentioned as a reply in some posts, but not in its own separate post.  Regarding an unprovoked popping out of the head rest.
 
In December 2020, Mopar pushed a notice out about an extended warranty for head restraints (aka headrests) popping out on their own.
 
Repair appears to be covered by a dealer for free under a specific item extended warranty.  
 
It also has reimbursement instructions for people that paid for a repair already.   I found the document on the NHTSA.gov website while researching the same issue for my own Journey.
 
I attached the document.  Enjoy.
MC-10187662-9999.pdf

i am NOT a mechanic but over the yrs have had several ac units fixed on cars and usually when a system has been run out of Freon they always replace the dryer unit ,and then they will find the leak,fix it then pull a vacuum to remove any air and also to verify the system is sealed then they had the  Freon to the system, most of the times a leak is at the o rings or hoses..good luck it can get expensive

Problem, and solution... nice. 
 
Thanks for posting what could possibly help others. I like these posts 

This should be taken up with your insurance. 

picture of the fender to show how much It was damaged would help, that said there are a lot of electrical connections on the drivers side, also the pcm (fuse box) has to make a good connection, so many things we could guess but that would be all we can do from here, sounds like you need a good lawyer as well the stores  lot where she was parked should have some surveillance cameras if its not to late to get info from them.. if its as she said and she wasnt moving then its his fault even if she was parked in a no parking zone get your ins invoked as it could get expensive the way you are handling it, good luck on whatever you do and keep us informed on what happens

I’m sorry, I don’t understand how a mirror hit can crack the battery, even at 50 mph. 

I’m sorry, I don’t understand how a mirror hit can crack the battery, even at 50 mph. 

then make a claim against his insurance company since it was his fault,,did you replace the battery? i would recheck the cables to make sure they both are tight as well before i proceeded to do anything else.other wise it could be any of the things that Oharefred as mentioned

Generally speaking, aftermarket parts are far superior to factory stuff, so you're better off going aftermarket (based on my experiences). I always recommend Moog, they've never let me down. 

It seems searching for Journey random horn finds a ton of owners with the same issue but not always the same resolution. Seems like  they are all 2010’s with this issue. I’ve got a new clock spring as well as the horn ring on the way. 99% sure it is in the steering wheel as I can stop it by just touching the steering wheel when it happens.
 
Great idea on those rear plugs, I’m sure they are original and have 104K on them.  

Thanks again! I will post back what I find on the horn.
 
Jeff aka Hemi_JJ

My daddy taught me this, and I guess I'm every bit as picky - I keep a small spiral notebook in all of our vehicles, and write the date, gallons, and mileage for every gas up, and for maintenance, the date & mileage, plus a brief description of what I did.  I tried to teach my sons & daughter the same practice, but I don't think any of them do it for their vehicles.

IMO.... I highly doubt that it's the ECU/ECM. Did you try ohming the OE one against the replacement? AND just because the plastic connectors latch tight does NOT mean the 2 wires inside are actually making good connection. This is an older motor now and I've come to find out that piston slap is a common high mileage problem with this motor and can be picked up by the knock sensor that your ear will not .

I set mine at 36 psi (COLD), but there is a sticker on the drivers door (or frame) that has the tire and pressure specs for you.
 
NOTE when changing pressures, to get accurate sensor readings you need to drive the car some for things to update and with warnings to be able to be self checked and cleared.

Move to the correct section. Sensor batteries are probably dead. 

So, I've had my Journey for about a year. And after much much searching about the factory Bluetooth issues, I've come to the conclusion that Dodge pretty much middle fingered those who buy this awesome car wannabe. It's a great car. Really. A little sluggish off the line sometimes, but overall, a great car. The radio SUCKS! With a capital S! The canbus lighting system SUCKS! Also with a capitol S.  Fine. Being that person who takes things a little too far sometimes....  Here's my fix...  
 
Raspberry Pi 4b - The Brain
Galaxy Note8 - The Android
10.5 inch screen - Replace that horrible 8 incher
Several Arduinos - The operations.
Lots of relays and my own pwm modules
My own onboard hotspot
A lot of my own programming in Python and Bash
 
So pretty much the electronics went in the useless floorboard storage compartment that they advertise could be a cooler. (Has anyone actually tried to use that as a cooler? Another joke).
 
USB cables to Hard Drives with music and video. The Note8 has a cracked screen, but makes a great permanent Android auto piece instead of using my normal daily driver phone. OpenAuto also has screen mirroring, so it works really well for my purposes. Bluetooth to my daily phone. Kicker Key 200.4 amplifier to the factory speakers. Swapped the 8 inch screen for the smaller 4.3 inch screen to maintain A/C controls and settings. Using a Metra kit to interface the factory harness to the 4.3 inch screen. ( Tried at first to just use the 4.3 instead of the 8 inch screen. Didn't quite work out the way I thought it would).
 
Anyways... A lot of work in progress. Added an Invertor for 110 volts. A lot of Neopixel LEDs swapped out like in the gear selector, the cup holders, recessed in the vents. 
 
Soon to follow, replace turn signals with sequence turn signals on both front and rear. (Insert Arduinos and relays). 
 
So far almost a year in the making and lots more to go. I'll keep posting pics and a maybe a final walk through video...
 
 
 
 

So my door was hit a couple years ago and last week I found another white door in mint condition from an 09. I thought it was a direct fir but boy was I wrong. I'll let you guys know what I've done to make it work. So the first thing you'll notice is the wiring harness is different. The wiring harnesses need to be swapped. Second issue you'll have is the door opening system. You have to take the system out if the second Gen and put it in the first Gen. You'll need to drill 2 holes that aren't on the first Gen doors but are on the second. These are to secure the latch system and the exterior lock. You'll also have to use an angle grinder to shape the handle hole more to the second Gen door handle.

Some people have had problem with main power feed to fuse box cable. Behind plastic cover crimp has corrosion.

I just remembered, the type nut that is used for the jumper post positive and negative cables are a "squished" top SELF LOCKING NUT. they start easy like a normal nut, but increase in turning effort as the stud threads near the top of the nut. This is to prevent the nut from coming loose on its own from any vehicle vibrations. 
   AND probably why you feel the nut is "tight:.

Done.