probak118

Scroller61,
 
As 2late4u said once the actuator is exposed, I used a 1/4" philips bit on a small ratchet and a stubby philips screw driver on the two screws. Easy to change but, a PITA to get in there, plan on a sore neck and back from laying on the floor bent like a pretzel looking up. Another forum member indicating after changing the actuator will self adjust itself after a few cycles.

Ok I am completely ignorant on this so now am curious. I assume the ABS valve should only be active while vehicle is in operation and wheels turning ? Meaning the draw is due to a circuit staying closed ?

4-5 year old topic....not sure you will get a reply ?

Not to get off topic but, thanks for reminding me how much I also miss those motorized tilt out windows.

This was a great option on the vehicle when the boys in the back started to act up.  They sat there quietly after activating that option  LOL As mentioned lower the rear windows and generally solves that problem.
 

https://www.classaction.org/jeep-wrangler-air-conditioning-heater-lawsuits
 
After trying different things plus, confirming the operation of all duct door and actuator motors in my 2012 DJ I was stumped. I even checked the temperatures of the heater core inlet and outlet hoses, although not the same they were within 10 - 20 f of each other it appeared. I had already had the heater core and coolant changed three years ago. So I went and talked to a friend who works at the tech help centre at one of the big 3. He knew immediately what the issue probably is, casting sand from the motor cylinder from the manufacturing process is breaking away and plugging part of the heater core. The bottom part which just so happens to direct heat to the passenger side of the cabin. honestly I have never heard of the this issue, but am told is affects all first generation 3.6 L Penstar motors. He said, the dealer when having to replace a heater core will try to do an aggressive extended flush to try and remove as much of this residual sand as possible then install the new heater core.  But does not get all the sand out, it will eventually happen again.  One thing to inspect is the coolant resevoir bottle for a thin sludge type layer forming on the inside of the bottle, that is a giveaway that the fine sand is now moving around the coolant. Sorry if I am beating a dead horse, but this was news to me. I stumbled across this link above when I googled casting sand plugging heater core, information on a class action for us dodge owners, it seems the jeep wrangler owners already won some sort of settlement.  If nothing else I now know probably what the reason for my no heat on passenger side, but the fix is keep changing heater core.....BS !

I think 2Late4u is on the right track, door seal, rather than a plugged door drain, give the seal a good look over for cuts, pieces missing or is there a seam there where the two door seal ends come together that has come apart a little ? Have you looked if door hinge has moved a little bit due to loose bolts ? Is there a air whistle as you drive ? Sometimes all it takes is a little push on the top back corner of the door ( window frame ) corner to bend it just enough to get a seal again,  body guys do this all the time but not in front of the owner LOL. Maybe stop at a local body shop, takes 30 seconds, a quick look would cost you a coffee at the most.  Keep us posted.

I think 2Late4u is on the right track, door seal, rather than a plugged door drain, give the seal a good look over for cuts, pieces missing or is there a seam there where the two door seal ends come together that has come apart a little ? Have you looked if door hinge has moved a little bit due to loose bolts ? Is there a air whistle as you drive ? Sometimes all it takes is a little push on the top back corner of the door ( window frame ) corner to bend it just enough to get a seal again,  body guys do this all the time but not in front of the owner LOL. Maybe stop at a local body shop, takes 30 seconds, a quick look would cost you a coffee at the most.  Keep us posted.

Thought I saw something on this site about how to re-calibrate actuators....do a search here or google that.if these do not work. Here are copies and pasts from another thread.
 
 
      Posted June 30, 2020 found this on goggle dont know if it really works ..good luck...............
Blend Door Actuator Motor Calibration
Turn ignition key to the on position and turn on the HVAC system. Move the key to the off position. Open hood (bonnet for the RHD guys) and locate fuse #15 in the fuse box next to the battery. Remove the fuse and wait 1-2 minutes for any capacitive charges in the system to dissipate. Replace the fuse. Turn the ignition key to the on position. You can now watch the motors move as the system goes through the calibration routine. Leave the key on for a couple of minutes to make sure that the calibration routine is completed before turning it off. You will also be able to hear additional activity as all the doors and fan speed are calibrated. You may have to run the cal routine a couple of times to get the system back to full functionality. If the position of the new door is significantly different from the point at failure, the system will successively move toward the new correct position setting. It may take two or three cycles for the system to move to the correct position.
  Quote
 
  Report post     Posted June 30, 2020 THank you. I also had seen this when scouring for information but it seemed like it applied to too many vehicles to be real. I guess I'll have to give it a try anyway! Thanks!
Report post     Posted June 30, 2020 hope it works and maybe some one else will chime in on this,it has been discussed quite a bit on replacing one but cant remember anyone talking about it had to be calibrated
  Quote

Report post     Posted June 30, 2020 Following up here. I think this is the easiest way to "calibrate" the new actuator manually:
 
Connect the actuator to the power connector, and just let it hang loosely. Turn on the car. Turn the heat all the way up on the climate control. This will trigger the actuator to go to "hot". Manually figure out how the blend door arm needs to be do deliver hot air (the arm needs to be all the way up and you can use your hand to get it there). Turn the car off. You now know that the climate control, the actuator and the air door are set to "hot". The arm connected to the actuator itself will need some guess and check to make sure that its in the up- most position when you install it and tighten the three screws. Once installed, turn the car back on and slowly turn the heat down to test the placement of the actuator arm. Once turned all the way down to cool, the cool air should be coming from the vents. There's probably a way that the dealership could have done this electronically, but this worked fine for me. I hope it helps someone else.
 
Thank you!
 
 
 

Thought I saw something on this site about how to re-calibrate actuators....do a search here or google that.if these do not work. Here are copies and pasts from another thread.
 
 
      Posted June 30, 2020 found this on goggle dont know if it really works ..good luck...............
Blend Door Actuator Motor Calibration
Turn ignition key to the on position and turn on the HVAC system. Move the key to the off position. Open hood (bonnet for the RHD guys) and locate fuse #15 in the fuse box next to the battery. Remove the fuse and wait 1-2 minutes for any capacitive charges in the system to dissipate. Replace the fuse. Turn the ignition key to the on position. You can now watch the motors move as the system goes through the calibration routine. Leave the key on for a couple of minutes to make sure that the calibration routine is completed before turning it off. You will also be able to hear additional activity as all the doors and fan speed are calibrated. You may have to run the cal routine a couple of times to get the system back to full functionality. If the position of the new door is significantly different from the point at failure, the system will successively move toward the new correct position setting. It may take two or three cycles for the system to move to the correct position.
  Quote
 
  Report post     Posted June 30, 2020 THank you. I also had seen this when scouring for information but it seemed like it applied to too many vehicles to be real. I guess I'll have to give it a try anyway! Thanks!
Report post     Posted June 30, 2020 hope it works and maybe some one else will chime in on this,it has been discussed quite a bit on replacing one but cant remember anyone talking about it had to be calibrated
  Quote

Report post     Posted June 30, 2020 Following up here. I think this is the easiest way to "calibrate" the new actuator manually:
 
Connect the actuator to the power connector, and just let it hang loosely. Turn on the car. Turn the heat all the way up on the climate control. This will trigger the actuator to go to "hot". Manually figure out how the blend door arm needs to be do deliver hot air (the arm needs to be all the way up and you can use your hand to get it there). Turn the car off. You now know that the climate control, the actuator and the air door are set to "hot". The arm connected to the actuator itself will need some guess and check to make sure that its in the up- most position when you install it and tighten the three screws. Once installed, turn the car back on and slowly turn the heat down to test the placement of the actuator arm. Once turned all the way down to cool, the cool air should be coming from the vents. There's probably a way that the dealership could have done this electronically, but this worked fine for me. I hope it helps someone else.
 
Thank you!
 
 
 

Posted September 23 (edited) The AC will come on automatically based on humidity levels in the cabin. Even if turned off in the manual mode, the AC system will remain active to prevent fogging. This is normal and explained in your owners manual. 
Edited September 23 by jkeaton
 
My recirculation button does not come on now, only flashes 3-5 times and stops. Windows fogging and need to keep defrost / defrost blend with floor  on all the time. no heater core leak that was changed about two years ago, will change electric humidity sensor behind mirror and hope jkeaton is right . What are the odds, recent topic discussions and now I noticed this issue.  Will update after the part is changed. 

Nice job bignosedog, congratulations on the man card bonus star  LOL  I am sure the attached picture will also help others know they can tackle this themselves and save an hour extra  in mechanic labour cost.

Well,, so far so good,,, no issues or grinding noises,,,,,,      the sliders were full of gunk,,,, maybe that was it,,,,   

Have a can of penetrating spray handy and soak and sit a little while - the nut and long bolt that holds the battery in place. Mine was pretty rusted, had to use an air gun and extensions from up top.

Would the VIN not provide a parts supplier all the needed info to verify you get the proper size ? Or, take the VIN to a dealer and they could tell you the size required

Would the VIN not provide a parts supplier all the needed info to verify you get the proper size ? Or, take the VIN to a dealer and they could tell you the size required

Would the VIN not provide a parts supplier all the needed info to verify you get the proper size ? Or, take the VIN to a dealer and they could tell you the size required

you dont say om how old the battery is but going into really cold winter your best bet is to replace it when you remove and clean the terminals on the old one..also i use a spray battery terminal protectant after reinstalling the cables it covers the terminal connectors with a red spray ,,,works really great, also dont worry about using a battery tender when changing the battery,and yes just remove the wheel and remove the plastic inner fender to have easy access to the battery still tight but is really the only way,and as said before after getting the battery changed or cleaned have some one check your alt as well////////////P.S have some baking soda and water and a small brush to put on the cable ends and where ever you have corrosion  to neutralize it as well
 
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Will that take into account figuring out where to move it to and moving it there? You're getting rid of it anyways... it's been real, good luck on your square wheel thing. 
Not sure if your only reason to joining the forum was to complain, but that's a bigger waste of time than replacing your battery. Moving on to real posts...

You do have some time from what I hear, but just what I am was told but; once your hear the hum.....you know it is always there.  It is not a difficult job but it is a physical job, a lot of banging with a hammer , slide hammer, lots of penetrating fluid and maybe blunt chisel. The hub is rusted in place basically and needs to be broken free. I friend told me he uses the power steering ( pressure it generates) to break the hub free ? I assume he removes the large hub nut and four backing nuts then, puts tire back on and some how jam something on back side of tire and turns wheel left and right to break hub free ????? Not sure really but would be easier than swinging a hammer a hundred times. I changed both sides to be safe,  sorry to hear about your son, if I lived close to you we would help you out for sure.  hopefully some neighbours will lend you the muscle needed. If you watch a couple youtube videos I am sure with some muscle helping you could do it. hope everything goes well. 

You do have some time from what I hear, but just what I am was told but; once your hear the hum.....you know it is always there.  It is not a difficult job but it is a physical job, a lot of banging with a hammer , slide hammer, lots of penetrating fluid and maybe blunt chisel. The hub is rusted in place basically and needs to be broken free. I friend told me he uses the power steering ( pressure it generates) to break the hub free ? I assume he removes the large hub nut and four backing nuts then, puts tire back on and some how jam something on back side of tire and turns wheel left and right to break hub free ????? Not sure really but would be easier than swinging a hammer a hundred times. I changed both sides to be safe,  sorry to hear about your son, if I lived close to you we would help you out for sure.  hopefully some neighbours will lend you the muscle needed. If you watch a couple youtube videos I am sure with some muscle helping you could do it. hope everything goes well. 

Replaced both rear wheel bearing hubs this morning with SKF not the MOOG brands.  Again heavy pounding, slide hammer,  and plenty of penetrating spray involved.  the OEM hubs removed had a dust type  cover on the back sides but none on the replacements. so, we removed from the OEM and silicone them on the installed SKF. seemed just the right thing to do, maybe not needed but we did. see attached images. Used one minute gasket material to hold cap in place and sprayed rubber sealant to seal the edges of the installed dust cap. there was no way of this dust cap being installed to the hub like the OEM hub. Is it possible the hub is universal and could be used on a AWD also ?

Replaced both rear wheel bearing hubs this morning with SKF not the MOOG brands.  Again heavy pounding, slide hammer,  and plenty of penetrating spray involved.  the OEM hubs removed had a dust type  cover on the back sides but none on the replacements. so, we removed from the OEM and silicone them on the installed SKF. seemed just the right thing to do, maybe not needed but we did. see attached images. Used one minute gasket material to hold cap in place and sprayed rubber sealant to seal the edges of the installed dust cap. there was no way of this dust cap being installed to the hub like the OEM hub. Is it possible the hub is universal and could be used on a AWD also ?

Is it not hard to change your battery yourself, just takes a little more time.  Make it easier and remove the tire first, remove wheel well liner the battery is right there. Soak the battery bracket nut with penetrating oil and let it sit a little while before loosening it. Now if the store offers to change the battery for you with the sale, jump on that for sure ! 

Is it not hard to change your battery yourself, just takes a little more time.  Make it easier and remove the tire first, remove wheel well liner the battery is right there. Soak the battery bracket nut with penetrating oil and let it sit a little while before loosening it. Now if the store offers to change the battery for you with the sale, jump on that for sure !