probak118 Posted August 20, 2020 Report Share Posted August 20, 2020 Passenger side front bearring starting to make noise, pretty expensive here in Canada. I would usually change both sides but the cost is telling me no, what experiences have you had with only changing the one bearring hub as apposed to doing both ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larryl Posted August 20, 2020 Report Share Posted August 20, 2020 I got a bearing out of Quebec that was reasonable from Amazon I changed one out (both original) then the other one went about 10000 miles later jkeaton and 2late4u 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jkeaton Posted August 20, 2020 Report Share Posted August 20, 2020 How expensive? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John/Horace Posted August 20, 2020 Report Share Posted August 20, 2020 Curious, how many miles/kms when these bearing failures are happening . Rockauto I find is quite good for price and delivery, can find a 5% discount code on line as well. Some bulky heavy stuff shipping makes it too pricy. They also offer OEM parts for various makes. I have no business link to these guys, but have used for years. Returns not easy or core charges unless close to border. Moog front about $130 before shipping of about $14. Front oem is only listed for awd early 2012 ish journey. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,2014,journey,3.6l+v6,3300354,brake+&+wheel+hub,wheel+bearing+&+hub,1636 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larryl Posted August 20, 2020 Report Share Posted August 20, 2020 The left bearing went at about 120000 miles the right 130 I paid 89.00 for the right bearing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2late4u Posted August 20, 2020 Report Share Posted August 20, 2020 doesn't make any sense to not change bothe out with high mileage on the journey just do it and get it over with, but if $$$$ are that short then just do the one and the other when it goes bad OhareFred 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deejizzle Posted August 21, 2020 Report Share Posted August 21, 2020 check out autoshack.ca cheap parts but a new one is always better than what you have. they sell them in parts (front or rear) if i recall correctly. might have to change more often but depends on how long you plan on keeping the car, how hard you drive it, etc etc. I have bought cheap bearings as well, haven't had any real issues since. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John/Horace Posted August 21, 2020 Report Share Posted August 21, 2020 (edited) The labor to change it is probably more than the part in a lot of cases. Depending on your local mechanic hourly rate. If you are doing diy or getting rid of car maybe. All brake parts and parts of suspension have to be removed to change front or rear bearings. AWD bearings in rear are specially labor intensive. I like to see Moog Timkin, SKF, one of the big bearing manufacturers on a bearing part. Brown box no name is riskier. Even though a lot of stuff is China (including some factory parts) the quality varies quite a bit IMO. Edited August 21, 2020 by John/Horace Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
probak118 Posted August 22, 2020 Author Report Share Posted August 22, 2020 I can get OEM Mopar from neighbour, his cost $220 out the door. John / Horace, thanks it seems Moog is the cheapest ( standard) quality. I have 120, 000 kms on the DJ and will be changing the front(s) myself. Just to make sure attached below is the part correct. Thanks all MOOG 513286 {#68184748AA, 68184748AB} Info Front Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John/Horace Posted August 23, 2020 Report Share Posted August 23, 2020 Correct. No right or left since abs sensor not built in. Sounds like good oem price. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shawn855 Posted September 15, 2020 Report Share Posted September 15, 2020 Autoshack sells the pair for pretty cheap. I found reviews on amazon and some people reported failures after a few months where others were happy. The pair would run you $60 US dollars give or take. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2late4u Posted September 15, 2020 Report Share Posted September 15, 2020 i would go with either the Moog or oem part cost a bit more but always better quality Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
probak118 Posted September 24, 2020 Author Report Share Posted September 24, 2020 Finally tackling the changeout Friday after work, seen some article posted that the bearing hub nut is designed for one time use, is that true and you must replace with new nut ? Lastly, can someone confirm the following torque settings for me to be safe;#1- axle nut is 32 mm and torqued to 118 ft/lbs . #2 - the four bolts fastening the hub to the knuckle are 35 ft/lbs Thanks all in advance for the comments, been told journey's are not the first choice when changing bearing hubs and should take about an hour / side. Time to watch a utube video a few times. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shawn855 Posted September 24, 2020 Report Share Posted September 24, 2020 Can confirm 32mm and 118ft-lbs for axle nut. Not sure for the four little bolts. I attempted to do mine but wasn't successful. I remember the four bolts being in there really really tight and took me a wrench + hammer to get them out. Once they were out I used a slide hammer with no success. I stopped there because I didn't want to do the alternate solution : banging on it with a hammer. It just doesn't seem good for the vehicle. You have a wheel bearing mounted in the knuckle....that knuckle is held in place by a ball joint at the bottom, and a strut at the top. The strut is held in place by 4 small bolts. So you're wailing on a wheel hub that's held in place by those two points - not worth it. My next idea was to take the entire knuckle out, place it face down on two blocks of wood, and placing a socket that fits perfectly behind the bearing and hammering it out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John/Horace Posted September 25, 2020 Report Share Posted September 25, 2020 I wouldn’t worry about reusing axle nut, it’s often done. Use a few drops of blue loctite if you are concerned. Size of bolt influences torque spec, if it’s a 12 mm I think 35 pds is fine. Sometimes I measure torque when removing bolt to estimate the torque, but rusted in bolts throw that off and aren’t accurate enough. I have used sliding hammer and had ball bearings flying across room sometimes. Strut is tuff and designed for load bearing. Sometimes using a coal chisel and hammering into flange shoulder between bearing and hub will break the rust free and avoid sliding hammer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
probak118 Posted November 3, 2020 Author Report Share Posted November 3, 2020 Go figure, changed both front hubs / bearings and now you can hear some noise from what appears to be the rear(s) tires. Oh well, will do a tire wiggle test and verify but, makes sense, new ones are now quieter than the originals. I assume pretty much the same work involved, time to watch utube videos maybe ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John/Horace Posted November 3, 2020 Report Share Posted November 3, 2020 (edited) Rear spindle can be angled over in place and worked on partly attatched. The rear bolts that hold hub in place seem under sized almost. Soak with spray, use 6 point socket to avoid stripping heads. Hub really rusts in place, tricky without good torch or lots of patience. How many k’s curious. Fronts changed with OEM hubs? Edited November 3, 2020 by John/Horace Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
probak118 Posted November 4, 2020 Author Report Share Posted November 4, 2020 I purchased and installed the standard "Moog" brand on the both fronts ( only the right was bad ) from Rock Auto, the link to them was in post #9 and see below. Attached is what I am thinking of buying for the rears total about $ 280 cdn after exchange. My 2012 journey has 130, 000 kms. I am a volunteer firefighter so I must admit 0 - 100 kms /hr is done often and cornering to the station is a little faster than perhaps most. MOOG 512478 {Click Info Button for Alternate/OEM Part Numbers} Info Rear Left MOOG 512479 {Click Info Button for Alternate/OEM Part Numbers} Info Rear Right MOOG 513286 {#68184748AA, 68184748AB} Info Front Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
probak118 Posted November 28, 2020 Author Report Share Posted November 28, 2020 (edited) Replaced both rear wheel bearing hubs this morning with SKF not the MOOG brands. Again heavy pounding, slide hammer, and plenty of penetrating spray involved. the OEM hubs removed had a dust type cover on the back sides but none on the replacements. so, we removed from the OEM and silicone them on the installed SKF. seemed just the right thing to do, maybe not needed but we did. see attached images. Used one minute gasket material to hold cap in place and sprayed rubber sealant to seal the edges of the installed dust cap. there was no way of this dust cap being installed to the hub like the OEM hub. Is it possible the hub is universal and could be used on a AWD also ? Edited November 28, 2020 by probak118 larryl and 2late4u 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larryl Posted November 28, 2020 Report Share Posted November 28, 2020 At least you didn't threaten to drive it to the scrap yard...you know crap Dodges Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Armando G Posted November 29, 2020 Report Share Posted November 29, 2020 @probak118 great job getting this all done and keeping us updated. Always great knowing how things worked out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neto Posted November 29, 2020 Report Share Posted November 29, 2020 Started hearing bearing noise on our Journey (@ +/- 90,000 miles) - sounded to me like the right side front. It seemed to be getting louder, so because our son was (and still is) in treatment for leukemia, I took it to an area shop. They asked me which side it was. I said it seemed to be the right, but that it's difficult to pinpoint the source on a uni-body vehicle. (I had raised the front, and ran it, but with the weight off, I couldn't hear it at all.) They decided it was the driver's side, and replaced that one. No change in the noise level. So how long will a bearing go, as it's going bad? Will it get louder, or will the type of noise change? I was going to try to do it myself, but I've never worked on a front wheel drive front end (I'm and old guy who always drove RWD vehicles.), and we also live in the "salt belt", so there's the likely rust problem as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
probak118 Posted November 29, 2020 Author Report Share Posted November 29, 2020 You do have some time from what I hear, but just what I am was told but; once your hear the hum.....you know it is always there. It is not a difficult job but it is a physical job, a lot of banging with a hammer , slide hammer, lots of penetrating fluid and maybe blunt chisel. The hub is rusted in place basically and needs to be broken free. I friend told me he uses the power steering ( pressure it generates) to break the hub free ? I assume he removes the large hub nut and four backing nuts then, puts tire back on and some how jam something on back side of tire and turns wheel left and right to break hub free ????? Not sure really but would be easier than swinging a hammer a hundred times. I changed both sides to be safe, sorry to hear about your son, if I lived close to you we would help you out for sure. hopefully some neighbours will lend you the muscle needed. If you watch a couple youtube videos I am sure with some muscle helping you could do it. hope everything goes well. Neto and 2late4u 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neto Posted November 30, 2020 Report Share Posted November 30, 2020 3 hours ago, probak118 said: You do have some time from what I hear, but just what I am was told but; once your hear the hum.....you know it is always there. It is not a difficult job but it is a physical job, a lot of banging with a hammer , slide hammer, lots of penetrating fluid and maybe blunt chisel. The hub is rusted in place basically and needs to be broken free. I friend told me he uses the power steering ( pressure it generates) to break the hub free ? I assume he removes the large hub nut and four backing nuts then, puts tire back on and some how jam something on back side of tire and turns wheel left and right to break hub free ????? Not sure really but would be easier than swinging a hammer a hundred times. I changed both sides to be safe, sorry to hear about your son, if I lived close to you we would help you out for sure. hopefully some neighbours will lend you the muscle needed. If you watch a couple youtube videos I am sure with some muscle helping you could do it. hope everything goes well. Thanks. That's a 'trick' I hadn't heard before. (Sort of reminds me of what some guys do to get the rear drums loose on the old MoPars - loosen the axle nut and drive around a bit, taking some abrupt turns. The hubs are a taper fit, and it's like they are pressed on. The normal way to get them off is with a hub puller. But after decades, they can be extremely stuck.) Here in Ohio I sometimes have to kick the living daylights out of the tires just to break the allow wheels loose from the hubs on my Dodge Caravan. It's apparently something to do with a reaction between the steel & the aluminum (with the salt as a catalyst). Fortunately our Journey has steel wheels. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John/Horace Posted November 30, 2020 Report Share Posted November 30, 2020 There is no separate listing for wheel hub bearing for fwd versus awd, so they appear to be interchangeable. Wheel bearings have rubber gaskets behind the metal bearing covers that you see from the sides. If you gently pry back the side covers you can see them on the edges of metal side shields. Extra McGyver cover you added certainly won’t hurt, could help a bit. Cover might fit an OEM Mopar wheel bearing hub. Double check those rear calipers for sticking parking brake assembly. They seem to have a tendency to drag a bit and not fully release, wheel should spin free with a tiny bit of drag only. If spring not pulling it back enough pads will wear rapidly. Like already mentioned, once the bearing hum starts you do have some time before it becomes dangerous. I have pushed one a month or two without any issues. Depends on distance travelled really. Some mechanics have an ultrasonic tool for measuring bearing noise to make sure bad one is identified. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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