2late4u

Sorry guys for all the spam. I have reported to admins.  There are literally hundreds of spam posts clogging up the various forums. I spent an hour yesterday going through and purging. 

Thanks 2late4u. I will do what the video suggests.

your mechanic or oil change place just didnt reset the computer,,this info is also mentioned in your car manual as well

your mechanic or oil change place just didnt reset the computer,,this info is also mentioned in your car manual as well

With the ethanol  content in gas getting higher,  gasoline ages out much quicker. Try to run ethanol free or add injection cleaner or fuel conditioner once a year maybe.
Brake fluid is also time related not just kilometres; fluid absorbs water gradually. Anything less than 5 yrs is probably a waste of money. When a brake job is being done ask them to flush all the lines and reservoir. Adds very little cost to a brake job. 

transmission service at 100 k along with plugs and coolant service,BUT if you are keeping your journey for the long term...i had my trans serviced at 60 k and then again at 100 k along with the plugs and coolant service....all up to you

Either way is a PITA! But I would say less things involved to pull the trans if it is a FWD. Even if an AWD I'd still go for trans, but a lot more work. 
By YEARS, you are due for a timing belt replacement, and it's a lot easier to do with the ENGINE out. Most folks try and get away without doing the belt and waterpump....then cry when the belt snaps or sheds cog teeth and ruins the guts of the INTERFERENCE MOTOR. 
YOU have some decisions to make...GOOD LUCK and keep us here posted on how you go.

so is this a new noise you are hearing.,,, as you know all journeys have a slight clunking or creaking noise going over small bumps or uneven road....have you had it checked for the ball joints and tie rods going bad, or strut, and the strut mounts,and or sway bar mounts? after all the journey has over 100 k miles and is 14 yrs old

so is this a new noise you are hearing.,,, as you know all journeys have a slight clunking or creaking noise going over small bumps or uneven road....have you had it checked for the ball joints and tie rods going bad, or strut, and the strut mounts,and or sway bar mounts? after all the journey has over 100 k miles and is 14 yrs old

I just found this old subject thread:
   I recently had this code show up on our '14 62te equipped DJ. I knew it was a torque converter going bad and had my friend seek {give his advice} and he said solenoid and fluid/filter change to see if it would fix. Was against my preference, but as the trans has to be removed for a torque converter {a rather pricey job}, we tried his way first....NO LUCK! So at my reasonable charges , had him pull out the trans and install a new torque converter for a total cost of $1,100. Then to finish things off, another $100 for rear upper control arms.
    There are plenty of youtube videos about this code and what to do.
ALL working FINE now
       and not chewing off inner tread of rear tires
 

Success!  Thanks, it was fairly painless.  Though I was overly cautious not wanting to completely destroy anything with my lack of experience.

From what I understand the NAV is located in the radio module not the screen.
I a little over a month, we'll be taking ownership of a '13RT model with the big screen but NOT NAV. The friend I get my cars thru says he's pretty sure he has a radio module WITH the nav stored away somewhere if I want to upgrade.. I'd rather upgrade with a BU CAMERA first, but for the '13 I believe the SCREEN needs to be changed with a newer year unit.

he can also use his oil dipstick that he can mark with a file to see how much fluid he has in the trans. check out youtube videos on how to correctly mark the oil dipstick as well......also hard to believe the 9yr old journey only has 28 k on it, 

You MAY want to look up the "running"{current} thread topic ... TPMS failure. Myself and a few other active members have been discussing our same concerns and the possible cause/repair needed. There can be multiple reasons WHY a system may malfunction.

A further point of observation when I reinstalled the orig. module ......
   The metal pins  of the module and corresponding  metal connectors in the harness are extremely small, almost like electronic "gadget" size. Sitting where it does in the LR wheel arch and although protected by the plastic arch liner, there is still much that can affect the harness connection. I noticed a fair amount of dirt/dust accumulation on the parts and the possibility of "greenhouse" humidity/ temp issues being tucked up into the wheel arch as it is. BUT that is just a THEORY on my part.

Hot today for western NY 82f ! Just got done reinstalling the original TPM module and went on another "auto learn" drive cycle. ALL wheels are reading and NO EVIC message or warning lite. I put Di- electric grease into the harness plug connectors when putting back together. I'll find out how things do in the morning!
 
On a side note, my friend GAVE me a sensor tester/programmer scanner as he now has 4 of them. I did an afternoon of "learning" how it works.
Found all 4 wheel sensors are OE brand Schrader sensors and they ALL test good. just don't know if they are original or replacements

It is NOT a totally sealed trans! There is a tube to check and fill the trans., just not a dipstick it has a twist off cap instead. Why not look at the MANY youtube videos that are available on how to check trans oil for the 62te trans that yours and ALL 3.6 engine equipped FCA cars have.
Checking fluid level {and properly done} is the FIRST step in diagnosing your concern.

Yes. 

what do we win? a little more back info would help
 

you can buy the tpms fairly cheap ( $29-39) if you have a way to break them down and install them and them use a scanner to get them to work Discount tire installed Schrader and gave me  a 6 yr/72 k warranty on them cost me almost $300, you can get them off amazon or rock auto for the best prices,,,since yours is a 2014 like mine just replace all 4 and get it over with

OK, seems like FOREVER since I said I would get around to it BUT here is my current status with the '14's TPMS.
I did not rotate any tires and just replaced the module in the LR wheel arch.
Did a auto relearn drive and came up with the Left rear not reading. My original problem was the RF dropping out intermittently. 
Going to visit my friend who has a number of tire and high end scanners to check the LR sensor out. MAYBE it is going bad as I've not replaced any sensors since getting the car a year ago.

Needs trouble shooting if battery and or alternator are bad. Low voltage can cause all sorts of weird dash lights, normal.
If battery is more than 5 years old I would probably just change it. Always charge a new battery before install.  When it’s running check what voltage alt is putting out. Should be 13.5-15 ish volts with several accessories running.

from his post i would assume the  new torque converter/labor was included in the 1200 price

Well a bit more than 2 weeks worth of driving and just a couple MINOR glitches were found by the wife. ALL fixed within 10 minutes time with NO PARTS needed. BUT the largest complaint is that the analog speedometer is KPH primary {bigger size numbers} and MPH secondary {smaller size numbers}. She says she can "live with it", and overall likes this '13 RT quite well! She should for $5,000.!
 My son is VERY HAPPY getting the '14 SXT, and I'm broke from paying for a new torque converter/labor and 2 rear upper control arms{$1,200.} and 2 new rear tires {$266.} for the '14 before turning it over to him!
I debated in my mind about keeping the '11 for a SPARE VEHICLE, but MONEY {or my lack of it} won out and the "11 WILL BE SOLD.

Prior experience,  on other domestic brands, has convinced me that, when it comes to sensors, OEM is the only way. Eliminates the trial and error.