5rebel9

The 2.7 motor has an EGR Valve. This unit can bind open from carbon buildup and cause similar symptoms and MAY NOT show a code. Most "modern auto techs" have not had to deal with such things as for some time now EGR valves have been replaced by other functions like variable valve timing and higher levels of engine computerization. BUT the 2.7 IS a "throwback" to older engines. I would take a serious look into that area to try and help fix your situation.

MANY possible causes. Start with cleaning the battery terminals and cable ends then apply dielectric grease to help keep oxidation from forming between the battery posts and cable ends. Just how old is the battery in youir journey? If at 4 years, I'd be thinking seriously about a NEW BATTERY. Also clean and lube the jump post connections on the TIPM and strut tower.

Since it started working {intermittently}, I'd try and have codes scanned again AND disconnect the module connector and apply a small amount of dielectric grease to the metal contact connection ends, PLASTIC connector may well be firmly in place, but that does NOT MEAN the individual wires are connecting well.Once scanned, please repost any ABS related codes.

From your posting, all your troubles point solely to the multifunction switch {T-signal stalk lever}. UNLESS somebody went into the column and cut a bunch of wires.

YES all good things and how to check them in 2late4u's response. BUT also what I gleaned from the video was the possibility of a bad CV/axle joint or even the passenger side axle support bearing being worn out. IF you are not much of a DIY'er, then get it into a reputable shop and have the front suspension/drivetrain inspected PRONTO as this will not get better on it's own!

ALL 4 quit working for both? Well lets say ONE FOB works "sometimes. I don't have so new a year as an 2018, but I do know that if you have a Check Engine Light on when in use, the computer will NOT allow remote start to function till the fault is fixed. Is this the only fault with both cars? Does the FOB lock/unlock the doors of both cars? Your messaging is rather vague, we need specific as to which car and what is not working.

IF truly overheating {and resultant COOLANT LOSS} which you have not yet confirmed.... Air entrapment in the cooling system will cause "overheating" symptoms. It take time and bleeding out trapped air by slowly filling the system and letting air purge out. These motors do NOT take well to "fill and go" coolant fills. You have rear heat with coolant lines that go all the back to the RR corner and back, LOTS of room for air to get "stuck" in. As a CHEAP addition to what you have done, I'd suggest a new cap for the restank/fill point.

I will GUESS you are working with a 3.6 V6 motor? More background info like engine, rear heat system or not, mileage and what kind of weather conditions would be very helpful for more than just guesses in response. Throwing in parts gets very expensive, you may want to find a better shop for a more thorough diagnosis.

PCM.... Power control Module ... In simpler terms the engine computer. NOT a plug in and play part{needs to be programmed to the car to work} , Check wiring first.

I would ASSUME you are working with the 3.5 V? YES it could be electrical wiring between the control valves OR even possibly into the PCM itself. I doubt the missing bolts/bracket has anything to do with the situation, particularly if this has been a RECENT{and not an old ongoing} problem.

Since the harness wires from the handle do go back to the BCM, there is a remote possibility of a broken wire in the rubber boot at door to body. BUT since both have been posted of, the OP should be able to determine now as to where to look...IF the OP ever responds back.

A rather tough problem being random multiple cylinder misfires. Sounds like you about did ALL you can do. BUT did you check the wire plugs and wiring to all those sensors you replaced? Also these motors are pretty particular for proper operation to O.E brand sensors and not cheap aftermarket one. TKN is an O.E. maker and found a good source parts brand. I would also clear any codes and try a short run/drive and see if anything more specific shows up. Good Luck and report back.

I replied to your original posting. There are 2 very small wires that are part of the exterior door handle. Dodge had a problem where those wires would break from movement stress, as they were too short on the 2011 models. Later year and replacements had slightly longer wires. My 2011 bought used had this same problem. Very pricey replacement door handle, so I took the handle out and fixed the wire, adding extra length wire. Have had the car 3+ years now and no more trouble from that situation. There are a number of Youtube videos on how to remove the exterior door handle.

Greetings! Most likely cause is broken wire in the drivers door handle. There are a number of youtube videos on how to remove the outer door handle. It's a replace with new handle fix OR if you are handy with small wire soldering and repair you could fix the wire{s, there are 2} Had the same happen on our 2011 model DJ Good Luck and report back how it goes

ATC auto temp control has more parts involved than just actuators like normal manual controls. This is why I suggested in the past thread to have a complete scan done relating to the HVAC system. BUT YES I agree that the heater core is a prime suspect in lack of passenger side heat. Both my current DJ's have manual dual front zone control, BUT soon I'll be getting another that does have the ATC system, I'll post here with what I find on "real world" operation, as being in the Buffalo/western NY area....we NEED to have GOOD HEAT!

Sorry for your misfortune! Don't you have glass coverage on your insurance? I'd let the "pro's" replace it, then if any troubles later it is on their "dime". YES odd the way that it blew out, but curved glass and part of structural integrity of the hatch.... can leave "weird" way in which pieces fall. GOOD LUCK in how you proceed!

NOT USUALLY unless there was some accident damage done to it.Check the easy obvious stuff first.

Could also be a cracked washer hose{it's plastic}. Most likely spot would be near the driver side hood hinge. This situation showed up on the wife's '14 model.

And that is why I said that I would suspect the P/S Pump first. I was in a hurry to further explain in my posting. Thanks for clarifying about the relief valve.

as a long time {but now retired} auto tech, I can only thinks of 2 possibilities. 1 A defective rack and pinion 2 A power steering pump Hard to determine either, but I'd suspect the power steering pump first. GOOD LUCK fellow DJ owner, keep us updated.

MUCH discussed topic problem IF you would have read thru this topic page or used the search function. It is a defective RECIC. Door Actuator. Remove the glove box and you will find it and it's one of the easiest to replace.

Nope. ALWAYS the right front and quite a while since getting new tires. Sensor scanner for wheel sensors show all 4 working and reading well. If you look up the codes, they are all system and front/rear/left and right position determining problems. ODD that the display still will accurately show correct tire pressures at each wheel position.

UPDATE" Well it has been decided that the '11 DJ will be sold off and my son will take over the '14 and I keep my "old peoples" Lucerne! My son had to "borrow" the use of the Lucerne for a few days while his '11 had some maint. work done on the trans. And came to realize what a nice ride it was. I had been concerned about shift "feel" of this '11 DJ since getting a used trans for it shortly after buying the car and since getting the'14 DJ made me want to investigate further on the '11. My friend and I tried replacing TTC solenoids and trans oil/filter, which made shifting WORSE. This was HIS preferred "fix" as I wanted to try a different Valve Body, as he had a few blown Differential section trannies on hand. We did swap out the Valve body and now the '11 is better than the '14's {which is shifting perfectly}. Yeah, It cost my son $400. to do, but he needs to drive it for another month till the '13 RT is ready. SO this will still be a 2 journey and a BUICK family!

Hwy! Our {the WIFES] Early '14 just started doing the same thing! Ran advanced codes and got these..... C1501-96 C1510-09 C1581-00 C1580-00 C1502-96 Have not rotated tires and always the R.Front dropping out and coming back on, with EVIC message to service TPMS system and tire warning light. My thought is the module, or wiring, waiting for decent weather to tug on the plastic fender liner.

UPDATE as of 2/12/23... 226800showing!