5rebel9

Did you check the reservoir tank for cracks or replace the radiator cap on the res. tank? IF that does not fix things, then you may be into deeper engine troubles. Does this Journey have rear heat? Air entrapment in the cooling system is a big quirk on these motors when opening up the system. DO NOT "fill and go", run the engine with cap off{keeping an eye on digital temp}, shut down and let cool off, top up coolant if needed and then repeat BEFORE driving with cap installed. This has worked for me with my 3 Journey's. Good luck, and please report back how things go. AND welcome to the forum!

I'll save making an extra response to you.... Welcome to the forum group! Seems strange to post that a '19 model year is getting "older" for a feature like back up camera system has failed, BUT the camera itself is almost 5 years old and been a known "weak link" in the system functioning. Many posts of failed camera's have shown up here. Rather than explain it all out here, try looking on the forum's search function for back up camera not working. Good luck to you, none of my 3 DJ's have the camera system.

Passenger side REAR corner. you can look from underneath and see the A/C lines and heater hoses at the very rear pass. side corner

Not to "dis" on you, but it sounds more like a not properly adjusted brake light switch and they did have an issue with this a few years ago. Of the 3 Journeys I have, none have exhibited such a light problem. HOWEVER on a different "venue", there could be broken wires in the rubber boot between the rear hatch and body causing a short that may keep the brake lights activated. More commonly though those with broken wires just have those corresponding lights not function....always the possibility of wires shorting together all the same. More common of ABS/trac control being a malfunctioning wheel speed sensor. You do have a bit of an "oddball" problem , good luck and let us know how you make out with it.

Member 2late4u was saying the rubber boot sleeve between the forward edge of the door to body of the car. it has wires that run from the powered door controls{ windows, mirror , keyless entry, interior lighting when door opened} MAY have a broken wire inside of that rubber sleeve/boot preventing the lights from turning on. You could also double check the lighting settings on the settings screen of the radio/infotainment screen on the center of the dashboard{not the instrument cluster}.

Many things can cause this code. A quick search on GOOGLE will show you the possibilities. The 3.5 motor, as with each of the other motors offered in the Journeys have their own "special quirks". BUT I would start off looking for intake manifold to cylinder head leaks or cracks in the exhaust system between the cylinder heads and lower O2 sensors,,,, Could even be a dying cat converter. Good luck and report back on how things go.

Hello there! I wanted to get a NAV unit for my wife's '13 RT that has the 8" RE2, BUT with 3 DJ's to maintain {and each has come up with fairly expensive needed maint.} MY funds are short right now. BUT if you would care to broker some kind of "deal" by private message with me on the forum, maybe we could do it. I'm located South of Buffalo,NY. Also I have not used the private message function of this forum yet, so it may also help me be more proficient using this forum. I look forward to any response back from you.

A difficult problem to say with assurance exactly what part is causing the problem as both the REAR DIFFERENTIAL and VISCOUS COUPLER work together. BUT i would place more emphasis at the REAR DIFFERENTIAL for the knocking and potentially "locking" up. Good luck to you.

Did you try a new cap for the overflow tank? NO HEAT on pass. side either indicates a plugged heater core OR air entrapment in the heater core. If I understand correctly this "no heat" observation was BERFORE bypassing the heater core? Also does the vehicle have REAR a/c and heat? most all three row seating models have it and if badly overheated can also entrap air and is a bugger to purge out.

My read says an AWD but thinks only the FWD is working. May be the rear differential/viscous coupling having a major problem. AND to the OP if your username is as impes....SEMPER FI to you GRUNT from a long past AIRDALE A-4 Skyhawk powerplant tech!

The center dash trim panel is easily removed to be able to put your eyes directly on the vent linkages for the center vents, as they are mounted to that trim panel. Youtube has lots of videos of removing that panel for other dash work.

They did NOT disconnect the AWD {front to rear} driveshaft. Just unbolted and shifted the transfer case over and rearward JUST ENOUGH that with a 3' extension to reach the 6mm {10mm socket} bolt that secures the sensor and have enough room to swap the sensors....JUST ENOUGH room. His helper said NOT A FUN OR EASY JOB.

Take a look at any youtube video for any 3.6 engine crank sensor replacement. I found NONE for those with the AWD trans bolted to that engine. The sensor is mounted near the oil pan flange of the block and therefore has a continual splash bath of engine oil on it. As for which driveshaft I def. know the pass. front shaft has to come out, the AWD shaft MAY need to come out also, but not confirmed. The transfer case just needs enough movement away to get to the sensor, so that is at the discretion of the person doing the work. UNFORTUNATELY my guy decided to do the job without me. I will say that this is DEFINITELY a hoist job to do, A FWD would be NO PROBLEM to do on ramps at home, as there is direct access to the sensor.

IF you find any '12 and up Caravan/ Town and Country vans at a wreckers some came with 17" rims that work also...and look pretty decent! Happy hunting and good luck

Cars are just what they are now..machines. To each person that is their own choice. I don't buy even a "certified pre owned" for a dealer as the price is way too high. Would I prefer a 3.6 with just FWD? SURE as shooting I would, but all that has been seen in my area are the AWD's...even at dealers. For the $15k invested to get 3 DJ's I'm still money ahead quantity wise to keep 3 drivers HAPPY. YES all 3 are over the 150k miles mark and will need maint that comes with age and miles, but newer and less miles vehicles need maint/repairs TOO. New York rust gremlins here on the western side of the state are BRUTAL,and all 3 of mine are holding up VERY WELL in resisting their ravages, unlike other make/model cars I've had. Due to the terrain {many hills that southern folk would call mountains} a FWD 2.4 model would just not "cut it" for us. Even these models are not in abundance in my area.

WELL..... Since my friend has summer help. they started on the car for an hour last evening and finished by noon today for a 5 hour total job. YES the converter, driveshaft and transfer case had to come out . Although the transfer case just had to be moved out of the way and not completely out. YES the sensor was bad with oil coming thru it into the connector cavity. Seeing how we've only had the car 2 months and that I'd been checking all I could{down to trying another radio module} for the past month, he is mulling over what to charge {if anything} for this labor intensive fix of a cheap $20.00 part. The car is back home and wife is HAPPY again and the Labor Day weekend is here!! Yup and JUST finished mowing the lawn so it looks good for Monday's PARADE that goes past our house!!

There are some other style factory 17's available. Our '14 sxt came with 17's that look a lot nicer, almost like the 19's that was posted john/horace. Keep your eyes peeled, there are many journeys out there and I'm sure you will find some rims that will suit your taste rather quickly!

I doubt that would help as the starter on the 3.6 is on the front side and the CKPS is back side on the 3.6. Located on a FWD with only the right driveshaft in the way{and no problem to get to the CKPS}. BUT the AWD has the transfer case covering it and MINIMAL room to even get a wrench at the single bolt that latches it to the engine block. My friend has only seen 2 other AWD 3.6's have the problem and and his way is to remove the rear bank converter, pull the right axle and possibly unbolt and shift over the transfer case to get to the sensor. WHEN he can get his bay open, he will call me and we'll work on it TOGETHER. Don't look for pic's as I won't have time to take them or the PC skills to post them......LOL

I did not seem to find any recent postings for this code, so thought I'd start my own. I mentioned that we were having this driveability problem thru the summer in HOT weather in one of my responses to another member...... WELL, the wife was out driving her '13 RT awd and the weather was a cool 62*f and the car started acting up badly with the CEL finally coming on. YUP code P0339, that I had suspected from the start but could get no codes. Going to my friends shop now as this is a on a hoist job to replace the crank position sensor. Being an AWD, the darned transfer case blocks decent access to get at the sensor. OF COURSE this happens when a major holiday is right on the doorstep and shops are already swamped!!!!!

Yes, the factory 19's like posted are very good looking. My wifes '13 RT has then original just in the plain aluminium color on a grey DJ. Just be prepared for price shock for tires for it! You can probably find a nice set of "take offs due to many NOT wanting to pay the price for tires and going back to 17's

A '13 rt phone is paired ,but sometimes slow or will not connect. When it does the mic and speaker do not work, only when speaking/listening to the phone. ALL other functions are working properly AND it stopped bucking/stalling Background info....Just replaced the RE2 radio module in a "clutch desperation" to stop vehicle from bucking{like someone turned the key off and back on} and STALLING at times. When I got the original radio module out, you could see the tacky remnants of spilled coffee all over the top and sides of the unit. I did not bother to open up the case.just got another from my friend. WAS plug and play{no radio code needed}unit was from an '11 that did not have phone. The phone of the original was showing connecting problems the same, but would activate the mic/speaker when making a call. It's the WIFE'S ride and phone and I don't use a cell phone, so this is kind of out of my league. ANY help/suggestions would be well received. Side note....Our '11 plain Janer had bad radio module that kept the dash lit up, so my thought was a reverse situation of radio module for "bucking"/stall. Sometime just sitting idling it would shut right off like someone pressed the start/ stop button.

PERFECT PLACE FOR IT! What FEW cars I've bought thru a brand dealerships started sending similar or come trade in, or we'll buy your car type letters within a year of getting one. They automatically went to the "round file".

Glad to hear about warning lights, YES life with all these "do dads" can be such a joyous thing! With 3 DJ's {have not sold the '11 yet}, each has a quirk that keeps my brain {?} spinning to figure out and fix. The '14 still gets an intermittent TPMS and trac. control but drives fine. The '13 is showing a stall at coming to a stop in 85*+ weather, but starts right back up with NO CODES. The '11 has a bearing drone on one of the corners, but not constant or at start out of a really worn wheel bearing. Mind those that read this, all 3 have 150+k miles on them, and I still enjoy each of them!

OK, so wife got back to home and what I figured out so far is that somehow the car lost battery power for a "blip" of a second and reverted the infotainment screen back to primary {NON US} configuration. She had been using steering wheel controls to "reset" speed back to US MPH, which would not hold after shutting the car off. I went to main screen settings and under display reset to US and not METRIC that was showing. Phone came up ready and worked without re pairing and all seems good. I just don't know yet WHY another electrical micro shut down occurred. Going to have the battery load tested and would NOT be unhappy if it proves to be a weak battery and needs replacement. We've only had the car 1 1/2 months and don't know the maint. history, but when I cleaned the posts/cables, it didn't look real old{3+yrs}.

8/4/23 UPDATE After our recent heatwave a couple weeks ago... Started showing electrical gremlins. Ended up getting at the battery and cleaning the connectors and posts along with all grounds on the strut mount and even power on the fuse panel. That fixed the as I call it "micro shutdown" of the engine while driving that showed up. Put in new spark plugs and that fixed another "buck" under load situation. Mechanically, this DJ seems pretty nice. BUT this is the wife's drive, so I don't get to use it to find and determine "issues" with it. NOW she is complaining that her Tracfone will NOT stay paired with the car after she shuts the car off. Also said that yesterday the digital speedo switched from MPH to KM and that the clock had jumped ahead an hour or so when she got into the car after work.. I can't do anything to check the situation this weekend, as she went directly to our daughter's home from work for the weekend to love and care for our 16 month old granddaughter! Any suggestions about these electrical/electronic function glitches is appreciated....I don't even have a cell phone to know anything about using and pairing one to a car! LOL