5rebel9

Indeed it was much less costly! My DJ's are all over 150k miles but have only had one outer cv joint fail. And with all the FWD rides I've had , I can't recall that I've ever had joint troubles. Yes it was the inner tripod joint and support bearing that "gave up", a rather odd failure to occur, outers seem more prone to failure. I agree in feelings of Cardone shafts from my years as an active auto tech.

Well...... Since diagnosis was done with the car on the ground and watching gear engagement with my friend laying on the ground, he got "snookered" by saying it was the transfer case/PTO. He got it on the hoist to start the job and found the source of concern at a much easier fix and parts cost. It was a worn out passenger side CV joint and support bearing. replaced the whole right axle for $250. Picked it up today and wife is HAPPY to have her car back. She enjoyed my chauffeuring her about, but did not enjoy the high step in for front seat entry of the G Caravan wheelchair van I now have to use with my dad. My Buick is awaiting new rear springs and locator links for rear toe, between HER DJ the van and my son's DJ that needed repairs and my friends FULL shop workload the Buick has been on the "back burner". When he does get it done, then it also goes in for 4 wheel alignment and tires!!

Well aware of rear diff/coupler concerns, but this is definitely the transfer case up front. Rear motor mount is high mileage and rubber got soaked from 2 cracked oil filter housing failures. It is actually in decent shape as there is very little engine/trans rock from mounts, just doing it with the transfer case being out for preventive reasons and already have the part and a lot easier to do. I'll keep all here updated as to how things go.

Well chalk it up to another UNcommon problem to show up on one of my AWD journeys. This time it's a transfer case going bad on the WIFE'S '13 RT. with brakes applied and shifting to drive and then reverse it makes a clunk sound just like a bad U-joint on a traditional RWD driveshaft. The output flange for rear driveshaft moves about 45* when doing so. Also clunks on acceleration from cruise while in motion.My friend is going to replace the transfer case and rear motor mount for a grand and 2 chicken BBQ dinners!

Those temps and the posting of NO HEAT from HVAC for car interior point directly to a bad cylinder head or head gasket problem......You posted that all other cooling system parts were replaced.

LOTS of possible causes for this code! How long have you had this ride and how many miles on it? Poor oil change{mileage} habits cause sludging and problems with the oil control solenoids for the variable timing system. also these engines use up spark plugs when using the proper suggested copper core spark plugs and SOME here have reported misfiring when using certain platinum tip plugs. I guess I'm saying a bit more history of the car and it's maintenance are needed.

How long{minutes} does it take to "overheat"? I suggest another test of the system with the dye. also do it with a warm but not overheating state. I hate to say this but....I think you have either cracked head or head gasket

Does the radiator fan run at any temp? NORMAL fan turn on temp is 217 and off at 213. High speed of fan comes on at 230. You changed a lot of system parts, but did you check for power and ground{ corroded or broken wires}? a good shop level bi directional scanner can test fan operation without having to run the engine.

Glad to hear the update and it's mostly successful results! And YES another PAUL HARVEY fan!!!!!!

ODD problem! ALL of the 4 DJ's I've had use an 11" rear blade and I get them at Walmart for about $11 US. They work fine and install / swipe / conform to the glas just fine.

OK My 2011 had a "no dash power off" issue when we got it. I had quite the post about it and what I did to find the cause. BUT what I did learn when having the center stack out was there is a module basically right behind where the screen sits that controls HVAC functions. With the convoluted way CAN/BUS runs in these cars it is possible that that module may be bad and causing the problem, IF you have access to used parts try replacing that module, but make sure it is one for the auto temp system if that is what your DJ is equipped with. This is definitely an ODD problem, I've got 3 of these cars{had 4 but sold one off recently} and never had this type of problem. GOOD LUCK and keep us posted..... and I hope all is now OK on the "other fronts" for you.

Seeing how this is such a "touchy" problem, lets back up a bit and do some further "sleuthing. Vibration was there with shaft OUT Vibration was GONE with fresh PTU lube and shaft out Shaft IN and vib. back, but at what speed? How many miles on this ride again? I'm fearing worn PTU or even play in FRONT differential carrier bearings{part of the trans.}. I've always preferred putting my "eyeballs" on a problem to try and access things than over printed word. This is quite the "quandary" to figure out, Good Luck!

Sorry to hear of more "glitches" from your DJ. I would have thought that by the year of yours this problem had been rectified on the assembly line. None of my DJ's have exhibited this problem, so I can't offer any advice to this concern. Good Luck.

As member 2late4u posted, yes areas to check. But to your further inquiry, YES depending on failure point IS on the board.

Most likely the circuit board in the radio is going bad{cracked solder points}. For your year the radio unit is plug and play for same type replacement, should be lots of radio units{not the screen}available at wrecking yards. Not hard to take the center dash stack apart to get to the radio unit, lots of youtube videos that can help you along about this task. There is a CHANCE also that the HVAC/radio control panel may be going bad also, Good Luck and WELCOME TO THE FORUM!

Glad you have made major progress ! A lot of work and parts, but now you can start ENJOYING the ride again instead of being ANNOYED.

Well my '14 sxt is now gone. My friend needed a decent ready to roll vehicle for his stepdaughter. She blew the motor on her later mosel Jetta turbo and can't find a good used motor for it. So Thursday I drove it over to his shop and made the transaction, a little "dickering" on total price{cash& used parts} and the deal is done. I hope she takes better care of this DJ than her Jetta. Friday I went to DMV and turned in the plates and registered the wheelchair van and put the plates on it so my friend can road test it to make sure all is good after his initial servicing to it. I hope to have it in MY driveway by the 16th. My friend has been totally swamped with work lately.

Also, don't forget to check the condition of the pigtail connector to the Battery Sensor. Small wires and subject to the same corrosion effetcts as the battery terminals themselves.

IF your front brake calipers use ONE piston in each caliper, order the smaller rotors IF your front brake calipers use TWO pistons in each caliper, order the larger rotors rockauto.com is pretty reliable for explaining the differences on how to determine what you need, I use them A LOT for my parts needs.

We have VERY SIMILAR backgrounds!!! Actually the viscous coupler is NOT spinning with driveshaft out, BUT the differential IS spinning on the spider gears and ring gear/and bearings. Just like the rear end of any RWD vehicle and why I suggested checking the rear diff gear lube. As I stated, I can't and don't hit the speeds you can{legally}, but I have to question that your vibration MAY be wear in the rear differential. What did the drain plug magnet show like when you "changed out" the diff. fluid? The front PTO also has gear lube and is rather difficult to check/fill. but low on lube or worn can cuase vibration through front floor AND steering. NOTE, both units I would NOT put on a list to just replace with new/reman. units....it would cost more than the car is probably worth. Thanks for clarifying things, I think all here now have a much better understanding of the situation. Keep us posted!

Only ONE of my 4 has the 8.4" screen and is a '13 model with no problems. IF you have already gone on the settings page and worked with the display brightness settings, then i'm sorry to say I have no suggestion for you Good Luck and let us know if you find a cure for this concern.

Just so I understand better.... you only get this vibration at speeds above 75mph? A bad rim or tire would show up around 50 - 65mph. Thanks to my area, I dare not push speeds beyond 70mph and only in a short passing situation. Is the onset of this vibration felt more thru the steering wheel or from the floor/rear area? AND just how "severe" is this vibration? Is it an annoyance or "OMG" I have to slow down till it goes away????

Welcome to the forum. Unfortunately you did not give much background info of any thing you noticed when this happened for members here to "go on". Do the heat/ventilation controls work thru the display screen? and is this the 4" or 8" screen infotainment screen with auto temp controller? Are you able to do any investigating/ disassembly /repairs yourself or reliant on a shop/dealer to do your maint. work?

Well it's been roughly 3 weeks now. The wheelchair van is paid for and after a full week of trying to get insurance for it{successfully}, I will be getting the plates for it this week when I can come up with the $$ for title/reg./plates. Had a heck of a time on insurance as the Dodge vin was listed as an incomplete vehicle and would not come up for a normal vehicle. Insurance Co. data bases have a special section for such conversion vehicles that it seems most "representatives" do not know about. Finally got it done and at a good price, even cheaper than any of my 3 other cars for same coverage! The '14 DJ is temporarily staying with me, till my friend decides what he wants to do with it. Higher mileage and some minor body rust but mechanically top notch

You may be on to something here! I took the OP's word on multiple balancings being done and should have revealed a bad rim situation IF the person doing the task watched the tire AND wheel spin. One would not expect to see a bad aluminum rim unless a very noticeable bend from say a curb hit or severe pothole. I did countless tire changes and balances in my day and always watched how the tire and rim for "wobbling" as they spun in the balancer. Also an unusual amount of weight being needed to bring a tire "into balance" should be another "tip off" to a tire or rim problem. My standard was anything over 4 ounces on a passenger car tire was cause for further investigation. My apologies to our metric standard members for not giving the metric equivalent, but I think you will understand the "gist" of my posting.