5rebel9

They say that all good things must come to an end. Sorry to see your ride meet it's end and for you to "sign off" from the forum. We got a little "nice weather" here, so I started looking over my son's '11 "old red" and am starting to consider the same end for "old red". My son is very happy with the '13 4 banger we transferred to him. and can't see putting the front end back together again with the rest of the body and paint looking rather sad. I'm still going to track down the coolant leak and repair to make sure there was no major engine damage from when it "blew", and if OK my friend is wanting the car for drivetrain parts. May you enjoy your next vehicle!

Good on oil, but what about the trans FILTER??? Is this a 4 speed or 6 speed trans?

On rockauto under Body&lamp assembly you drop down to lift support and there are a number of offerings for the rear hatch rods.

Sorry to hear of your issue, not fun when away from home to have happen. As for electrical(battery), it is not just volts but cranking amps available in the battery. And as us "old timers" would say, a dead or dying cell inside the battery. Not the most fun to get to the battery but good clean posts and cable ends at the battery are critical for keeping the overall system happy. MY "bet" is dirty battery connections and a dying battery.

WOW! A very detailed write up and good pic's also. You certainly did some "deep diving" homework to pull this "mod" off. This would probably also work for the 4.3" screened models with longer wires and module placement in a different location due to the storage bin of the trim panel of the 4.3" version. A trip to the salvage yard could help lower the cost for the module, if one wants to go thru the agony of removing one at the growing popularity of U pull it / pick a part salvage yards.I got one for free thru my friend to get the HFM/phone working on our '13sxt (4.3"), but I had to pull it. MANY people really do like the feature of having hands free phone in cars today! I guess $$ off for vehicle sales price to have people buy the FCA models by NOT having it as a STANDARD feature across all DJ trims and other models. I may need to investigate this further and see if your way will work on my '14 Grand Caravan wheelchair van with its base radio.

Well, the weather was GREAT today and the parts were delivered at 10:30 this morning, so...... started working on the '13 at 11:00 and was all done by 1:00 with a couple of breaks in that time. The hardest part was popping the ball joint stud loose of the control arm due to short jack stands , but I got it and reassembly was EASY. The '17 gets dropped off to my friends shop this evening for him to do and take care of a couple other glitches I found when driving it, and he agrees that he should have caught them before I took possession of the car.

Looks great! Must be nice to be able to "pamper" just ONE Journey!

Yeah ONLY 4 , But I also had 5 but sold one off about 2 years ago! I've run just about every problem with the Journeys are known for and overcome them all, so I'm pretty comfortable with maint. on them. Some problems are harder to fix than others, but I've had to work on other brands that were just as nasty or WORSE. Biggest thing now is remembering and finding my records of just what was done and when on each of them without getting them mixed up!

Well the wife is always driving it and I rarely even ride in it to "hear" things. She just finally told me that it was getting loud again like previous wheel bearing noise. A jack up and check showed the shaft bearing completely gone and slop in both the inner and outer CV joints and able to "rock" the rf tire 1/2" play at wheel bearing! The seal on the PTO is NOT leaking. The '17 is not worn nearly as bad for the shaft bearing(just a low droning sound like a wheel bearing) but it needs the shaft and CV shaft due to the splines of both the inner CV joint and the intermediate shaft being very worn and rocking... once in a while it will even pop over the spline making a horrible clacking noise. I've only put about 500 miles on the car and it did get a new wheel bearing on that side by my friend as part of the purchase.... noises were not diagnosed far enough by him to see this problem. So I buy the parts and he will do the labor. Not upset with my friend other than me having to pinpoint the problem and now waiting to get fixed and not driving it places I need to go to prevent more damage or breakdown.

Well John/Horace.... You jinxed me by your posting his topic ! Of all the 5 DJ's we've got/had, only ONE has needed a right side CV Joint shaft....UNTIL NOW! Both the wife's 13RT and the new to us 17 crossroad need the intermediate shaft AND CV shaft. The 13 is so bad that it has done in the wheel bearing also. Parts are ordered thru rockauto and with tax & shipping comes to about $410. us., and should be here on Monday. My buddy will install the parts on the 17 and if good weather holds, I will do the 13 here at home. It's going to be quite a "chore", so don't anyone be looking for pic's of how I go about the job. Suffice it to say, my plan is to "pop" the control arm down instead of the 2 strut bolts, as one has aftermarket eccentric bolt for camber adjustment there. I STILL WISH I HAD A GARAGE AND HOIST!!!!!!

Certainly a "novel" approach to a "sticky situation"! In my climate area, we try our best to not have to remove the rotor dust shield as those small 6mm bolts tend to just snap off the heads and leave you with more "fixing" to do.

EXACTLY RIGHT! And probably a couple more ready to break if not so already in the rubber boot upper left side of rear "tailgate" to the car's body.

Glad to hear! So just what were you doing with your Journey to use J Scan? I've been using my alfaobd a lot lately to do fobs on a vast number of FCA cars and also for testing various systems, like rad. fans and such, I'm not into "mod." changes yet. BUT with the '17 I just got, the wife wants heated front seats and wheel added before WINTER comes again. alfaobd can set the BCM once I get the parts and wiring installed.........

It was FINALLY good weather and both the wife and son were available for oil change time on their respective Journeys. I'm not the best photographer, but here is the proof of our FOUR DJ's and the Grand Caravan wheelchair van(if you can make it out in the pic.'s). And that's my Neighbor's house in the background.

Glad that you are satisfied with the way they work and longevity. Only "old red" has needed a low beam bulb replacement of all the DJ's, and that was a few years ago. I used to complain about the power of the low beams......until I had cataract surgery this last late summer. Standard bulbs seem FINE now to me!

I've NOT worked with the 1st gen DJ's to know for SURE. But if like the '11+ models, it should be over the brake pedal bracket for module location. As far as where the fuse is, I can't say as there seems to be confusion of location for an internal fuse panel or not having one for the 1st gen. DJ's. PERHAPS a Google search could help you out about which fuse and where. Good Luck , and keep us informed....seems to be a resurging trend of 1st gen owners coming around for needed info. most of us have the newer year models.

HFM/ bluetooth/phone module is pretty OLD for an '09 model, how new is your phone? There are postings of your similar situation here{keep looking}. And how long has this issue been happening with your DJ? I doubt it is an issue with "Uconnect" but the HFM/bluetooth/phone module going bad, and there are numerous postings of this. I have 2 '13 models and a '17 with the HFM/bluetooth/phone capability, I have only had to replace the module on one of the '13's I have to get it to work ( I got the car with it not working), and 3 different newer phones all work well with all three on mine.

Which is it? "Getting hot in drive or sitting while running" or both? Coolant does not draw down or up much at all in the reservoir tank on these. First thing is to make sure the radiator fan is working. It should come on at 210 - 214 degrees on the small info screen for the low speed fan portion and 230* for high speed(failsafe) mode. A common failure is the radiator fan resistor, mounted high next to the fan opening on the passenger side of the car. The easiest way to test without running the motor to temp is with a bi directional scanner that can test run the low speed fan circuit and high speed fan circuit. IF you don't have such a scanner handy, a good independant shop could do this for a nominal fee. I have the alfaobd program and it can do such checks quite nicely. Next step should be a cold pressure test of the cooling system, this will show leaks where they may be and possibly "burning off" when the motor is running. Another common failure for coolant loss is from leaking gaskets between the thermostat housing assy and the cylinder head on the 2.4's . BEFORE throwing parts at the car, get a good inspection done on it for the cooling system so you don't buy and pay labor for unneeded work.

YES, it would be a LOT easier on a hoist to do this job! Thanks for the nice pic's of your chore in doing this maint. repair!

Well, I "checked" the noise out today and determined that the LF wheel bearing is starting to go. Not bad enough to "rush" into replacement yet, but soon and I will do that as my friend did replace the RF which was BAD as part of the deal. A couple of interior things and a hitch with wiring to do once warm/dry weather fully arrives and all will be set! The wife also drove it yesterday and LOVES the Blue color and back up camera! BUT she said when could I put heated seats and steering wheel into it? .... LOL ! I was surprised she did not also ask for nav!

UPDATE !!!!! Since my last posting here in this thread, I bought a '13 4 cyl. sxt and got it all back to running order for a total investment of $2.500. I drove it thru most of fall and winter and then transferred it to my son in need of "wheels" due to his "old red" '11 awd hitting a deer on his way to work about a month ago. "old red" WILL be put back together this summer. In the time since I bought a 2017 AWD crossroad model, not fully appointed but enough "toys" to keep the wife happy. HFM/back up camera and 3rd row seating.I did activate the remote start also. This is now our 5th journey, but only 3 are registered for the road right now, "old red" is hibernating for now. I'm quite happy with the purchase price and all the work my friend did to it for the $6,300 purchase price. I brought it home TODAY and am very impressed with the way it drives and sounds. I just have one minor scraping sound that I picked up on after driving for almost 50 miles today and believe it to be either a brake dust shield or a heat shield over the main awd driveshaft. Rain of all day today SUPPOSED to end tonight for a nice Saturday and I will then "check that out"!

I don't think I was "banned", Google said it could not find the site or it was down or moved to another adress. I have only been "banned" from one site for when I had a dodge neon, and that site was specifically for the SRT neons which I only had a plain model. They were nice enough at first in comradery, but the administrator must have been a "pureist" for the site.

Your DJ may be "relatively" new, BUT did you READ responses of this thread and check for broken wires inside the rubber boot between the body and rear hatch? VERY COMMON PROBLEM, and I had to fix a number of broken wires on my slightly older 2017.

Well it's 2 weeks later and the '17 is still at my friends shop. He decided on putting on a new set of tires and a front wheel bearing, thus causing the delay due to other work running his shop. Last Friday and Monday, I went over and checked out the rear hatch lighting and B/up camera issues and indeed found 12 broken wires in the rubber boot. I repaired them all and ALL is good now. The wife will LOVE the B/up camera, and may even start moving the car in reverse more now than just backing into our driveway (LOL)! I'm hoping to have the car in my driveway this Friday, and will try activating remote start system with my alfaobd program (it didn't have that feature), I've already programmed a proper fob to the car, but am having trouble getting it to start on the second click on the fob... not sure if the used hood switch is bad or what just yet, so I'm going to try the working one from "old red" while he's in "hibernation". I had activated "old red" and the '14 we had for remote start, so I'm comfortable knowing I used the proper steps on the '17. My son is really liking the '13 4 banger for it's added toys and better MPG than "old red". STAY TUNED for further updates.....

I don't know what happened, but 2 days that I could not load and view the forum at all had me going into "withdrawal symptoms"! Yes things are a bit slow on postings lately, nut I do like to "check in" on goings on here. GLAD to be seeing the site back "up".