5rebel9

I hear you loud and clear about rather self repair original parts, BUT I had heard of many complaints of the early Avenger/Sebring/200 door panels not holding up well with time.I would liken the early DJ's to be the same on that account{I've seen a few 09-10's}. The door panels should all be alike for mounting and switch locations----break down and find good used later year and do all of them. I personally think later years used better materials, and yes year to year panel designs may have changed, but not affecting mounting. Consider it an UPGRADING MOD. 😁

Other than material/pattern looks, I'm pretty sure the door panels all mount the same. Consider "upgrading" to a matched pair up front or find a pair that look close to what you have. Journeys are getting older now and should be a good number in salvage yards now. All 3 of our Journeys are parked outside at all times, and don't have any interior problems in the Western NY area. On really hot days {80*+} I crack a rear door window just enough to let the even hotter air inside the car escape. BUT I live out in the country and don't frequently go into urban areas where one would want to be all "closed up" for security reasons.

Most cost effective and less time consuming would be to go to a you pull it salvage yard and get complete panels and just swap them out.

Thanks for posting these diagnostic charts @Dean H! This should help this member out of their problem nicely! I don't have ready access to such materials, but from my own experience would have followed such instructions anyway. But I could not explain and detail well enough to somebody else what to do. Keep up the great job here on the forum!

I would suggest going after the P0340 code first, if engine{especially a 4 cyl.} is not operating properly or even intermittently, the PCM will deny trac. control and cruise control. In my understanding, you are correct in thought of it not being a wheel speed sensor or you would have codes for it. You have a high enough level scanner since it read the C121C-00 code.

VERY INTERESTING! One question, did you already have a backup camera wired thru the car or did you have to do that also? My friend says I can come and take camera and any needed wiring from one of his parts carts for the wifes '13 RT {big screen radio} and equipped with back up SENSORS that show in the EVIC screen between the gauges. I get so little down time with that car that it's hard to take things apart just to see what I may need. Of course I'll be using the factory mount location.

Good to hear that you've found the very likely source of your cars concern. YES that is quite unusual to have happen, and I have 3 DJ's to care for of mine. ALL are pushing 200k+ miles and not that problem!

It matters NOT where you are located or if garaged or not, wires in harnesses can and do break and must be tested/checked. The fusible link wire is an Orange wire to the big 8mm{13mm socket nut on the starter solenoid. IF that is blown or a break in that wire thru the harness to the PCM, you WILL have loss of charging system. There are a number of threads with stp by step and diagrams posted on the forum, mainly by member Dean H.

And you have tested and are certain the fusible link at the starter main stud is good? A broken or badly frayed wire in the harness can show the same symptoms that have you thinking PCM.

The ball joint base is pressed into the steering knuckle and the stud end goes into the lower control arm....That's the way they were designed from the start of the Journey{and the Avenger/Sebring/ 200}. You won't find such a part as you wish for. Look up the control arm and Ball Joints on rockauto.com, you will see and understand WHY.

MY apologies... I should have RE READ your initial posting, sounds like you've pretty much done all I suggested.

Is this an AWD or FWD model that you have? IF AWD, you may want to check front power take off unit fluids, rearward shaft carrier bearing, FLEX coupler at rear differential/viscous coupler AND fluid level in rear differential. MY '14 DJ gave me a weird noise and shake a little while ago. The rear diff. gear lube was LOW and the FLEX coupler was VERY cracked{but still together}. I had no sign of fluid leak from the differential, but refilled and then replaced the flex coupler and all has been good since.

I've not PERSONALLY had to diagnose/repair such a problem as this, BUT my shop owner friend had a same type problem that did. He showed me his "in process" work and also what he found when I visited with him. Turned out to be a broken wire in the harness between the TCM and transmission. It was in a wire harness that went clear around the engine bay, but the break was located like 2' from the TCM. He spliced a new wire from the TCM side break to the corresponding connector at the transmission. Point being said.... NEVER rule out wiring just because connectors look good.

Since you state that there ARE controls in the middle seat headliner area.... YES you have 3 zone HVAC. Driver front, Passenger front and REAR.

A GOOD independant shop would have a "high level" scanner that will access all codes and HISTORY of fault activation of such things as ABS/traction control. I have a OBDLINKMX+ remote "dongle" and the accompanying program on my tablet that will do the same after I free downloaded "enhanced features" to the basic program that came with the "dongle". Cost me about $60. for that, and as I did not have a tablet or smart phone... another $175 for an android based tablet. Works great for these type of pesky problems.

Watch videos relating to TOUR cars ENGINE SIZE the 3.5 is a different engine altogether from the 3.6. NO there is NO CHAIN REMOVAL for doing a 3.6 engine water pump, just the serpentine drive belt.

AND VERY WELL STATED!!!!

WOW! Posting to a full year old last posting thread, should have made your own thread. Be it as it may, you said the battery is at least 5 years old. The cable connectors and battery posts probably have not been cleaned since it was installed....MISTAKE #1. Yes the battery is in a wicked hard spot to get at, WE DJ owners KNOW THAT. IF you can get it running, go to an auto parts store{even Walmart} and have the battery load tested to see how good or bad it is. A good battery and clean cable connections are CRITICAL with these cars. A dead battery will erase any codes that the computer in the car sees so yes waiting this long for action {preventive maint.} becomes problematic. For you it's time to spend some time and effort to NOT get "hosed" by some shop.

So, a '17 Journey but what size engine{each has their own "quirks"} and how many miles on it and what maint. has been done.

What brand sensor did you try? OE, Denso and NTK work best. Bosch is not well liked in these motors. How many miles on the car and what symptoms/codes made you decide for O2 sensors? You may have a bad cat converter or other fuel management troubles.

YES ! O2 sensors can get VERY TIGHT from all the heating/cooling cycles of engine operation. I've had to resort to 3' long 1/2" drive breaker bar for a few of the many I've changed thru the years. Make sure you use a quality O2 sensor socket, some designs are better than others.

It's been a VERY LONG TIME since I was located in coastal North Carolina serving in the Marine Corps to remember how I would set my A/C controls in that area. I've been just south of Buffalo,NY for the last 45 years and until recently did not even care if A/C was even functional. One of my 3 Journeys has auto temp and my Buick also{ A bit different in operation}, the other 2 journeys have manual set temp controls. But I've checked them each and found on straight DASH vent position, the recirc button WILL stay for the next start up there. I can't speak yet for other vent outlet positions. Yes each car make has a little twist of operation of systems that car and drivers need to learn of each other! Dodge has always been "different" than most other makes and "training the drivers is often required of our cars.....LOL Learn and ENJOY your newer Journey!

An '18, but not sure which engine. BUT that year uses R1234yf refrigerant, and is a bit more finicky a system than the earlier R134a systems. Autotemp controls may come into play on the recirc shutting off after long drive, due to cabin temp sensor reading desired set coldness OR to prevent icing of the evaporator in the HVAC box inside the dash. Idiosyncrasies of this new refrigerant are still being discovered and being learned of how to deal with them. Personally I don't use "recirc" for extended time of driving with any of my 4 R134a system autos. I use it to get cooler quicker and then switch to outside air draw. It would be nice to hear back from you on how your ride is working out since your last posting.

On other forums for Dodge vehicles that I have participated on with the same motor{ I suspected you had the Diesel}they have reported a check valve in the booster vacuum line going bad. This causes the sinking pedal due to vacuum sucking hard against the rear seal of the master cylinder, which gives the impression of a faulty master cylinder. We don't get the VW 2.0 motor here in the NA market, so I can't give you much more info. You may want to try a VW dealer or specialist shop, the brake boost system is probably the same. Good Luck to you and let us know how you end up fixing this problem.

Your info states EU for location. What Engine does yours have, as you have a few over there that we in NA don't get. Sinking pedal on holding applied could be a bad booster or check valve in the vacuum line to it. Sounds like otherwise you have been pretty thorough in your repair process.