mechanical-idiot

First, pair another phone to be sure it isn't some problem in your phone internally.  If you're convinced it's not your phone, I suggest you borrow another phone or video device to make a video of the problem as it occurs.   It probably won't be convenient to get this video, but be sure to include any screen messages and show multiple uconnect screens that demonstrate that your phone is not connected.  After that, show it to your dealer service folks.  The other option is to spend some time on a test drive with the service manager demonstrating the problem. If they don't have a fix, I would politely demand they replace your bluetooth module to see if that fixes the problem.  That's what I'd do...
 
Peace.

Ask them to diagnose it and give an estimate first.
 
That way, you know what is wrong and you can get it fixed cheaper someplace else if you can.
 
mechanical-idiot

Just got all our lower toe and upper control arms replaced.  It was cheaper to buy them at the dealer than anywhere else.  I should have had them replaced at a garage, but I got them done at the dealer because we had three seals leaking on the back as well.  Got a 2 year warranty on the repair.  Not cheap though.
 
I have spent a shitload of money on this rig, but we are afraid to trade it in case we have fixed everything!  I did that with a Ford truck (after replacing a shit load of stuff on it - finally got sick of it and traded it) and the guy that bought it had it for 2 years without putting a gd thing on it!  I can't win!  SOB!
 
mechanical-idiot
 
 

Should have gotten an estimate. 

dealers are allowed to charge different prices on their parts as well as labor, that is why you get a estimate  before the work is started and also so you can check around at different dealerships i learned this years ago, also you could have got it done at your local garage using parts from part stores although usually not as good of quality parts as oem... and No you wont be able to get an adjustment, but hey its worth a try...good luck

Could also be rough shifting.  You can get a reprogram.  Might work.  Might not.
 
You need to get a transmission/powertrain mechanic to check it out, preferably at a Dodge/Chrysler dealership.
 
Not a cheap fix.
 
Good luck.
 
PLEASE let us know how you get along guys!
 
mechanical-idiot
 

Wouldn't hurt to try this. Let us know how it goes. 
 

2012 Journey RT AWD kept killing batteries.  Took it to a mechanic.  Couldn't find a parasitic draw.  Got new battery.  Killed it in 6 weeks. 3rd killed battery.
 
Took it to another mechanic.  He did a parasitic draw test.  He found that it was drawing 50 milliamps when sitting in the garage with everything off.  He said that it should not draw beyond 35.  So, he started pulling fuses and replacing them one at a time while checking the draw.  He pulled a fuse called HFM (under the dash on passenger side - hands free module) and the draw went down to 29 milliamps.  Put it back in and kept pulling.  No other fuses reduced the draw.  He told me that the fuse was for the bluetooth.  Son of a bitch!  The bluetooth was intermittent, then quit working for us.  So, we pulled the fuse and have not had a problem with the battery draining since.  We had to have the battery charged on an industrial charger to bring it up to snuff.  He did a slow trickle charge overnight, so it was charged for 2 days.  Seems to have brought the battery back to snuff.
 
New HFM costs 737 dollars Canadian at our dealer (before taxes).  Son of a bitch!  Easy enough to put in (check out youtube for the video), if you don't mind taking off the brake pedal.
 
Seems to be a common problem with a lot of Dodge Journeys.  You might want to pull this fuse first if you have this problem.  Might save you a few bucks in mechanical fees!  Then again, it may be a totally different problem for you.
 
Hope this helps someone out there in the real world.
 
mechanical-idiot

2012 Journey RT AWD kept killing batteries.  Took it to a mechanic.  Couldn't find a parasitic draw.  Got new battery.  Killed it in 6 weeks. 3rd killed battery.
 
Took it to another mechanic.  He did a parasitic draw test.  He found that it was drawing 50 milliamps when sitting in the garage with everything off.  He said that it should not draw beyond 35.  So, he started pulling fuses and replacing them one at a time while checking the draw.  He pulled a fuse called HFM (under the dash on passenger side - hands free module) and the draw went down to 29 milliamps.  Put it back in and kept pulling.  No other fuses reduced the draw.  He told me that the fuse was for the bluetooth.  Son of a bitch!  The bluetooth was intermittent, then quit working for us.  So, we pulled the fuse and have not had a problem with the battery draining since.  We had to have the battery charged on an industrial charger to bring it up to snuff.  He did a slow trickle charge overnight, so it was charged for 2 days.  Seems to have brought the battery back to snuff.
 
New HFM costs 737 dollars Canadian at our dealer (before taxes).  Son of a bitch!  Easy enough to put in (check out youtube for the video), if you don't mind taking off the brake pedal.
 
Seems to be a common problem with a lot of Dodge Journeys.  You might want to pull this fuse first if you have this problem.  Might save you a few bucks in mechanical fees!  Then again, it may be a totally different problem for you.
 
Hope this helps someone out there in the real world.
 
mechanical-idiot

Parts finally arrived late this pm.  Being installed tomorrow.
 
I took it for a run yesterday afternoon and after about 15 minutes of driving, it started clunking like crazy on left and right turns, but not going straight.  The transmission mechanic came with me for a run and confirmed that it was the bdorc 68058066AB Rear Axel Viscous Unit. 
 
Remember, it is a 2012 RT AWD.  Front wheel drives don't have this part.
 
I now feel much better about getting it fixed properly.  I was a bit worried that the repair might not fix it, but he is absolutely positive that he has now pinpointed the problem for sure.  He wanted to hear it before installing parts to make sure that he puts the proper parts on and doesn't charge me for parts that I don't need.
 
mechanical-idiot

Holy crap, are some of you guys running a used car lot?
 
1987 Ford Ranger(5 speed) - Never again, I hated it
1989 Pontiac Grand Am SE (5 speed) - wish I still had it
1995 Pontiac Grand Am GT- nice
1998 Honda Accord (5 speed) - currently driving this little beauty
2002 Ford Windstar - Glad it is gone
2012 Dodge Journey - love it, wife's new to us vehicle
 
I prefer to drive a standard, but I love the Dodge Journey.

Fred, you forgot to take the price tag off that fish!  LOL!
 
mechanical-idiot

Everything is still running perfectly.
 
I got a brain serge and called a scrap yard.  The guy had a 2012 and sold the IBS to me for 25 bucks.  A deal I could not refuse.  
 
I have not replaced it yet.  Since the circuit board was not damaged, it will likely keep working.
 
Will replace it someday when I have some time.
 
mechanical-idiot

Everything is still running perfectly.
 
I got a brain serge and called a scrap yard.  The guy had a 2012 and sold the IBS to me for 25 bucks.  A deal I could not refuse.  
 
I have not replaced it yet.  Since the circuit board was not damaged, it will likely keep working.
 
Will replace it someday when I have some time.
 
mechanical-idiot

Runs like a top thus far, but who knows.  Nothing showing up on the dash etc.
 
Weird how the low battery made it act up electrically, but as my neighbor explained, it needs 9.6 volts before it will start the vehicle, so I guess it makes sense.
 
Anywho......... I will let you know how I get along with it.
 
mechanical-idiot
 

Runs like a top thus far, but who knows.  Nothing showing up on the dash etc.
 
Weird how the low battery made it act up electrically, but as my neighbor explained, it needs 9.6 volts before it will start the vehicle, so I guess it makes sense.
 
Anywho......... I will let you know how I get along with it.
 
mechanical-idiot
 

If all that broke was the plastic part I think you’d be ok.  From the picture it looks like it’s there to protect the guts.  Keep watch and see if you get any weird issues or any warning lights and go from there.  
 
Totally my 2 cents with no actual experience with this.

Back on the road and no thumping in the rear.
 
Seems to be working properly.
 
We purchased it 2nd hand, and my kids and wife loved it upon sight, so we took it.  The AWD was a bit out of my control, but I will never buy another vehicle with it.  As 2late4u has mentioned, it is just something else that can go wrong.  That man has a lot of common sense.
 
I hope that this thread is useful and helpful to others.
 
mechanical-idiot
 
 

2late4u is right again.
 
I replaced all the crappy lug nuts on our Journey with solid nuts. 40 bucks including taxes.  All the caps were peeling off the old ones.
 
Your problem nut could be stripped because it might have been put on crooked with an air gun.  Not fun to take off.  If the cap was rounded, it would pull right off the nut.  The nuts are easy to take off when the caps are missing.  It has no effect on the nut if the cap is missing.
 
Good luck with that bad nut.  Most tire shops have a special socket that can catch the nut and take it off for you.
 
mechanical-idiot

2late4u is right again.
 
I replaced all the crappy lug nuts on our Journey with solid nuts. 40 bucks including taxes.  All the caps were peeling off the old ones.
 
Your problem nut could be stripped because it might have been put on crooked with an air gun.  Not fun to take off.  If the cap was rounded, it would pull right off the nut.  The nuts are easy to take off when the caps are missing.  It has no effect on the nut if the cap is missing.
 
Good luck with that bad nut.  Most tire shops have a special socket that can catch the nut and take it off for you.
 
mechanical-idiot

2late4u is right again.
 
I replaced all the crappy lug nuts on our Journey with solid nuts. 40 bucks including taxes.  All the caps were peeling off the old ones.
 
Your problem nut could be stripped because it might have been put on crooked with an air gun.  Not fun to take off.  If the cap was rounded, it would pull right off the nut.  The nuts are easy to take off when the caps are missing.  It has no effect on the nut if the cap is missing.
 
Good luck with that bad nut.  Most tire shops have a special socket that can catch the nut and take it off for you.
 
mechanical-idiot

Every dealer will have their own set of rules to deem a vehicle "certified".  Best to check with each one. IMO, it's nothing  more than a marketing gimmick desigend to lull you into a false sense of security about a particular vehicle. 

Moved to the correct section of the forum.
 
It's under the intake manifold....good luck...This might help.
 
https://workshop-manuals.com/dodge/journey_awd/v6-3.5l/powertrain_management/computers_and_control_systems/knock_sensor/component_information/service_and_repair/knock_sensor_removal/

use to have problems with the caps coming off the lug nuts (cheap nuts from chry) mostly caused from air guns over torquing the lug nuts. you might have to drill it out. before doing this go on amazon and order you a complete set of solid lug nuts cost is quiet reasonable ( $ 20-30)and also use a torque wrench from now on when putting the lug nuts back on.
 

Could also be the ABS activating if you are pressing hard enough for the vehicle to interpret it as a panic stop situation. In which case, it is normal. You are going to have to demonstrate the issue to the dealer.