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2012 Journey Crew upper rear control arms


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Any Journey owners experience rear upper control arm bushing wear? My recent checkup at local tire shop indicated warn bushings, they said caused wear on inside face of rear tires that is noticeable. Any thoughts on using dodge replacement parts or jobbers. Can I replace the bushings or do I have to replace the complete arm? Is it adjustable or fixed length? How difficult for DIY?

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If the holes for the mounting bolts are still intact, replacing just the bushings would suffice. If this problem has been going on for a while, more than likely the control arm mounting holes are egg shaped. And, I would do both sides at the same time; uppers and lowers (inspect them for wear also).

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Thanks for the advice on the control arms. Suppliers tell me that the entire arm with bushings is sold as a unit. Anyone tried replacing bushings only? I haven't removed the arm yet but assume it must be adjustable in order to align the wheel camber, comments?

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On my other cars that I don't have factory warranties on, I replace whatever's broke or failed with aftermarket and never have issues beyond. But then again, I don't keep my daily drivers much longer than 4-5 years. Just make them last as long as I need them.

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I always replace with aftermarket also but there are 3 tiers in quality and prices of parts. 1st line is best but costs more and 3rd line is cheapest and crapiest. I went 3rd line first they were half the cost of 1st line but only had 90 day warranty. Bushing died again in about 10 months. Then I paid the extra bit to get 1st line and just looking at the part you could tell it was a billion times better quality. Kicked myself for trying to save $100 the first time when the labour cost to do it twice was way more lol. Now it's Moog or nothing lol

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  • 2 years later...

i just had this problem with the upper rear control arm. the factory ones are NON adjustable i went with some aftermarket adjustable ones from precision manufacture, had them installed and they make the camber come back into specs. only 2 bolts hold them in looks fairly easy to do, but i let the alignment shop do it as it was bad weather when i found out the problem was. with the camber out you will wear the tires on the inside or outside of your rear tires and or cause cupping. so far no more problems with them there are different brands of these mine actually comes with grease fittings in them most of the other ones dont.

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  • 1 month later...

Be aware that sometime it might be the knuckle bushings that are worned out and not the one from the control arms itself. When I jacked up my car I could see the wheel popping in when leaving the ground that is a sign of loose knuckle bushing but the Wheel won't have any play at all. I had to replace all 6 knuckle bushings, 3 from each side. You can do it yourself if you have a good press and a lot of different sleeves size and lot of times.

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  • 2 months later...

Just got all our lower toe and upper control arms replaced.  It was cheaper to buy them at the dealer than anywhere else.  I should have had them replaced at a garage, but I got them done at the dealer because we had three seals leaking on the back as well.  Got a 2 year warranty on the repair.  Not cheap though.

 

I have spent a shitload of money on this rig, but we are afraid to trade it in case we have fixed everything!  I did that with a Ford truck (after replacing a shit load of stuff on it - finally got sick of it and traded it) and the guy that bought it had it for 2 years without putting a gd thing on it!  I can't win!  SOB!

 

mechanical-idiot

 

 

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