Summer Solstice

Let's face it, FCA products aren't the most reliable vehicles on the road.  But I am hugely disappointed in my Journey because it hasn't exploded into the giant disaster the internet said would happen.  Thinking it must be a fluke, I bought a Grand Caravan just for entertainment value.  It too has badly let me down, with nothing going wrong.
 
Seriously though, both my Dodges were at least $10k less than the nearest alternative.  If they are a bit less reliable than other brands, I can live with that.  $10k will buy a LOT of repairs.  And even the most reliable car on the road still needs some repairs.
 

My apologies, it seems once they retooled the site they removed that feature. I was able to locate these comparisons on a 3rd party site https://www.chryslerwarrantys.com/maximum_care.cfm.
 
Lamar 
DodgeCares

Hello rozey66,
Welcome to the forum and congrats on the new purchase! Its seems like the members have you off on the right track. The 2 parties listed above are 2 local dealers that understood the need to sale these plans online, but like one of the members stated the prices may vary. Mopar.com(https://www.mopar.com/en-us/care/mopar-vehicle-protection.html) has a great comparison tool on the MaxCare vs. the Added care plans but please know that its truly important to do your research to determine which plan and purchasing location is best for you!
So to recap the plans can be purchased at your local dealer, online retailers or at 1-866-818-9929.
 
If you have any additional questions please let us know!
 
Lamar 
DodgeCares

i assume you are talking about the cabin air filter as the only other filter is the engine air filter...easy to change look on you tube for journey cabin filter change right behind the glove box takes about 3 minutes to change out, check around for a replacement some of them are real expensive,you might find one for around $10, i bought a k-n cabin reusable air filter just pull it out and wash it out and then let it dry for a bit and then  spray some disinfectant Lysol on it as well .....  i clean mine every oil change as well
 

ABS light and traction light on is usual a bad abs sensor!  mine said one on the rear was bad!  I jacked the car up took each one out (did all 4).. cleaned each sensor with glass cleaner and reinserted each one back into position... dropped back on whee;s.. and light went off before I even got all the way down the driveway! happened 2 years ago been off ever since!!!

just like any company they  can charged different amounts on any product that they want. just contact them  and see if they want to beat the other companies price, best way to do it..When i bought mine i bought from Zeigler as they were the cheapest at that time but things always change....also if you have to have a repair thur a dodge dealership prices can vary from dealerships to dealerships on parts and labor....

remember some one had posted he bought a journey from car-max i believe and they kept bouncing him back and forth between them and Chrysler on a repair problem, i personally wouldn't buy a third party warranty, of course the warranty i bought on my 2014 was the first one i have ever bought on a vehicle in my life, so far i have had to use it one time so far and it saved me about $400. with the add $100 ded i had to pay plus paid for a car rental bill while being repaired.,,,, i paid around $ 2200. for it when i bought it.

Before you buy an extended warranty, check what the current vehicle has.
 
When I bought mine, the dealer tried to sell me a certified, pre-owned warranty that would cover the vehicle until 100,000 miles. I declined. I believed that it had just the factory bumper-to-bumper until 36,000 miles and the powertrain until 60,000 miles. Once I had the vehicle I created an account at Mopar.com. Once I entered my VIN # I found out that the vehicle already had a pre-owned warranty that covered the powertrain until 100,000 miles. The dealer mislead me, either deliberately or by mistake. Given the additional experience that I had with them after the sale, I am inclined to believe the former. I no longer patronize that dealer.
 
Go to Mopar.com and enter the vehicle VIN #. I don't know if you have to create an account or not but you can find out what the existing warranty is and whether, as a former lease, it may already be a certified vehicle with an extended warranty. Take the time to verify what the seller is telling you by checking yourself directly with Chrysler.
 
As for the extended warranty, be sure that what you choose is an official Chrysler factory warranty rather than a third party. I was fortunate to get in just under the wire and get the unlimited option, which is consistent with the way I intend to keep the vehicle. Otherwise, the internet options for the extended factory warranties are the way to go. I went thru Clay Robbins who is no longer associated with ChryslerFactoryPlans but Robbins Motor Company in Kansas.
 
 

Before you buy an extended warranty, check what the current vehicle has.
 
When I bought mine, the dealer tried to sell me a certified, pre-owned warranty that would cover the vehicle until 100,000 miles. I declined. I believed that it had just the factory bumper-to-bumper until 36,000 miles and the powertrain until 60,000 miles. Once I had the vehicle I created an account at Mopar.com. Once I entered my VIN # I found out that the vehicle already had a pre-owned warranty that covered the powertrain until 100,000 miles. The dealer mislead me, either deliberately or by mistake. Given the additional experience that I had with them after the sale, I am inclined to believe the former. I no longer patronize that dealer.
 
Go to Mopar.com and enter the vehicle VIN #. I don't know if you have to create an account or not but you can find out what the existing warranty is and whether, as a former lease, it may already be a certified vehicle with an extended warranty. Take the time to verify what the seller is telling you by checking yourself directly with Chrysler.
 
As for the extended warranty, be sure that what you choose is an official Chrysler factory warranty rather than a third party. I was fortunate to get in just under the wire and get the unlimited option, which is consistent with the way I intend to keep the vehicle. Otherwise, the internet options for the extended factory warranties are the way to go. I went thru Clay Robbins who is no longer associated with ChryslerFactoryPlans but Robbins Motor Company in Kansas.
 
 

Welcome from a 2016 owner. I too bought mine off-lease under 18000 miles. I have been very happy.
 
I too bought the extended warranty over the internet for a lot less than the dealer offered it at the time of sale.i have not needed to use it yet but intend to keep the vehicle for many years.

Go by what the manual states for 60k service. Not what the dealer tells you, They always will upsell. 

Trans fluid is a good idea.   Fuel rail cleaner is bs(as far as I’m concerned)  I paid around $200 for my trans service as I recall.  Look in your owners manual. If it’s not listed, don’t do it...

Why did you change rhe battery? Where you having problems before? Did you change it just before this started?
 
If not, then I agree with OhareFred. Start by checking the work you did, including testing the new battery to make sure it is not a lemon.

Get it scanned for the Check Engine Light code. It may be a simple sensor.
 
Scan for the codes before doing anything else. If it is due for transmission service, fluid and filter change, do that after scanning for the codes.
 
Only after doing the above, have it properly diagnosed at a reputable shop. If the estimate is for major repairs, get a second opinion at another reputable shop.

When shopping for any car, I visit a few trusted review sites. I scan the negative reviews for anything that seems to be a common issue. I take all of them with a grain of salt knowing that angry and upset people are more likely to leave a review than someone that is out happily driving around. That is why I use common complaints as a guideline of expectation ONLY.
 
I like this site and find it to be a good indicator for my impressions afterward. Note the actual number of complaints against total number sold.
https://www.carcomplaints.com/
 
I check this site for recalls.
https://www.nhtsa.gov/recalls
 
I also check out Edmunds and Carfax. Again, I take them with a grain of salt and use common sense to weed out for what appears to be legitimate and common concerns.
 
Never buy a vehicle without an extensive test drive, preferably all day, and never buy a vehicle without a competent inspection on a hoist.

Read my answer above. I referenced both outlets.

When shopping for any car, I visit a few trusted review sites. I scan the negative reviews for anything that seems to be a common issue. I take all of them with a grain of salt knowing that angry and upset people are more likely to leave a review than someone that is out happily driving around. That is why I use common complaints as a guideline of expectation ONLY.
 
I like this site and find it to be a good indicator for my impressions afterward. Note the actual number of complaints against total number sold.
https://www.carcomplaints.com/
 
I check this site for recalls.
https://www.nhtsa.gov/recalls
 
I also check out Edmunds and Carfax. Again, I take them with a grain of salt and use common sense to weed out for what appears to be legitimate and common concerns.
 
Never buy a vehicle without an extensive test drive, preferably all day, and never buy a vehicle without a competent inspection on a hoist.

Get it scanned for the Check Engine Light code. It may be a simple sensor.
 
Scan for the codes before doing anything else. If it is due for transmission service, fluid and filter change, do that after scanning for the codes.
 
Only after doing the above, have it properly diagnosed at a reputable shop. If the estimate is for major repairs, get a second opinion at another reputable shop.

Only the pompous, 'keep up with the Smith's ', 'look at me', type of people. My area has at least 3-4 Tesla's on every block. Or the biggest Jeep wrangler, with the biggest tires, so they can venture out to the grocery store safely. 
Not us. 

i thought every one in cal drove Tesla

Sounds like your heater core.  If you are going to replace it yourself look at the UTube short cuts
 
Your engine won’t run hot until your pretty low, long after no heat.

Why did you change rhe battery? Where you having problems before? Did you change it just before this started?
 
If not, then I agree with OhareFred. Start by checking the work you did, including testing the new battery to make sure it is not a lemon.

I would double check the battery Connections. Maybe loose? Did you test the battery?

Only 1 place for coolant level- well two actually- the radiator and the plastic reservoir. Make sure both are at the full levels.

Well, if your not losing fluid under the car, near the firewall, I would venture to guess maybe the rear heater core is plugged or air locked.  Might want to try a radiator shop or the dealer.