Summer Solstice

First

 
Next, start by having your battery and alternator properly load tested. One or the other being bad is a very common reason for flashing and/or electrical symptoms. Many threads here one this.
 
Have the vehicle checked for codes as well, even if the "check engine" light is not on.
 
These need to be ruled out first as they are very common and the simplest. Check back in once this is done.
 
Good luck.

There was a guy in my older brother's HS class that had a trap door in the backseat floor of his car.  So when the cops stopped him and his buddies, the one in the back seat would just set their stash on the pavement, under the car.  (Then retrieve it when he was told he could go.)

It's times like these when it may be beneficial to have the problem diagnosed by a trusted garage. Even though the fee is usually around $100.00, you have already spent that in time, materials, and frustration. You don't have to have the repairs done there.
 
As far as fuel rich and chugging, there are so many different things that can throw the balance off. You may have a gasket leak, a spark issue, a sensor problem, or an impeded or leaking  exhaust. You've already hit the easy stuff that I would have suggested first. I say cut your losses and have a shop give it a first hand look.

This has been mentioned as a reply in some posts, but not in its own separate post.  Regarding an unprovoked popping out of the head rest.
 
In December 2020, Mopar pushed a notice out about an extended warranty for head restraints (aka headrests) popping out on their own.
 
Repair appears to be covered by a dealer for free under a specific item extended warranty.  
 
It also has reimbursement instructions for people that paid for a repair already.   I found the document on the NHTSA.gov website while researching the same issue for my own Journey.
 
I attached the document.  Enjoy.
MC-10187662-9999.pdf

Welcome to the forum. 
    Did this just start happening or has this been a long term problem you've put up with?
If FOB will unlock the drivers door with one "click", Try 2 clicks in rapid succession to see if the other doors also unlock. This would be a programming thing that you should be able to change to single "click" for all. As far as the drivers master switch on the door, it may be going bad as to why it won't unlock the the other doors.

Also note that there is more than one actuator. Typically there is 1 on each side, under the dash, for right and left. There is a 3rd, on the right, same general area as the other one on the right. This one controls the overall mix of air from the outside. They are often all 3 the same part. You have to identify which one is failing.

These guys hpseem to have the most accurate parts lists and they sell OEM as well.
I don't work for them. Have caught other parts stores checking their site as a cross reference. ?
 
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,2015,journey,3.6l+v6,3309784,brake+&+wheel+hub,abs+wheel+speed+sensor,1912

The grinding noise may be a wheel bearing which the sensor is part of. You need to investigate it closer to be sure. Bad wheel bearings tend to be louder with speed or at certain speeds.

Okay, well welcome back. Sorry you're still having problems. Was re reading your "saga", first off a FLUSH is the last thing you want to do. more troubles happen from this alone. Next did they even drop the trans pan and replace the filter? If not, that's about the only thing you can do without a good clean work area for valve body removal(also involves dropping the trans pan). When you DIY don't cheap out and do just a specific part, replace related "consumables" like filter and make sure to use ATF+4.

Your symptoms with a dead battery is the same that I had. The vehicle was new enough that it was still under dealer warranty otherwise I would have replaced it with a DECA. I have had excellent results with them also. In fact, I have one sitting in an unheated garage that still has a charge after 3 years. Time to put it on the trickle charger.
 
Good luck and thanks for the write up.

I think the  physical swap would be possible. 
I think the issues comes in once you try and integrating electronics. The center gauge screen probably wont work, as it needs to talk to a ECM from the 3.6L/2.4L: I4. The radio will probably fight you tooth and nail, as they have anti-theif. additionally the radio cluster will need to talk to the BCM and ECM to control exterior lights, interior cabin temp, and other features.  The HVAC in 2011 is totally digital. I don't think the 10 is going to like to communicate with the 11's dashboard.

Here's a better idea. The 2011's are cheap (so is nearly all the better FCA journeys, too). Just get yourself a Newer 2013 with 90k-100k miles, and sell the 2010 for like 4k. not only will you have the improved interior that actually functions as designed, but nearly everything else will be better- better engine, better seats, better tail-lights, better wheels. despite the used car market cost spike, there are high mile (100k mile) V6 journey's are found for under $7k

For the last 30k miles, the brakes on my dodge have been... less than desirable. ABS worked, all the wheels seemed to do their thing to stop the car, but the pedal felt weak, and spongy. I thought that I had either 1) air in the lines, 2) failing caliper, 3) bad master cyl 4) bad booster.... turns out it was just 1 seized slide pin on the driver's side.

So, this last week the rear brakes start grinding metal on metal, as 2011-2012 model year brakes are known for eating pads and rotors every 30k miles. (which has been true for me so far). 

I get the 'elite' rotors+pads from Autozone, and go to town:
Turns out: My caliper slide pin on the Driver's side had totally seized up! The outboard pad had 75% remaining, and was worn out off-kilter. The inside pad was totally gone, and was just the backer plate. "what da fuk!?!? I greased those pins every time!" I thought to myself, as I explained to my wife why a 'two hour' brake job is turning into me missing dinner... 

Anyway, I ended up replacing the brackets on both sides, threw it back together, and wow what a difference having functioning brakes make!
 
4 hours + 17 mosquito bites later:
$204 for pads+rotors
$130 for 2 brackets, 4 pins, 4 boots, and a baggie of grease

The brakes are back! my goodness <3 it feels good to be able to stop like a normal car!

Your symptoms with a dead battery is the same that I had. The vehicle was new enough that it was still under dealer warranty otherwise I would have replaced it with a DECA. I have had excellent results with them also. In fact, I have one sitting in an unheated garage that still has a charge after 3 years. Time to put it on the trickle charger.
 
Good luck and thanks for the write up.

just bought my daughter a set of Michelin tires ( defenders rated at 80 k)  from discount tires online instead of going to their store to order them..... well they had a great deal of 110 off instantly and if i used my discount tire credit card i will get and extra 60 on a rebate master card... now the local store will match that price but by ordering on line, the warranty for the tires are about $5 cheaper than the store charges so that is a $20 savings and also buying on line the tax is cheaper by about $20 ...so all that said i ordered them last sat and they were supposed to come in Monday but never got a email on the tracking so i called them and they said there had been a mix up somewhere, and said they were going out Monday nite and should be at my house on Tuesday and to make up for the problem they said as soon as i get them mounted and balanced to send them the invoice on the cost and they would reimburse me up to $ 22. per tire,,, so for a total of $498.40 and free install she is getting a great deal on a set of tires....Discount tire is a great store to trade with if you have one near you give them a try as they rebuild the tpm for free and treat you right every time an d if you dont have a store in your state buy them from discount tire direct online they ship them to you and then they have authorized installers near where ever you live,,,one thing is the offer the best deals at every holiday weekend so try to catch them at that time and also their credit card is easy to apply for and easy to get...MAN i sound like i work for them BUT NO i dont they are just a great honest company for a great deal

From further experience( on saturday) I had a tire sensor replaced on our '11 DJ was there for the whole process of activating the sensor(an aftermarket brand) thru installation back on the car. Aftermarket scanner showed all good, but the EVIC message, pressure reading and warning light did NOT go away until I had driven 1.5 miles at speed. During this time, the warning light would give a single flash about every .3 miles. I believe this was from the system checking position and pressure of each tire as I stated earlier. The system of the car itself HAS to relearn by driving, and not just use of a scanner to reset lights or messages.
    So on our DJ, we now have 2 new sensors on the front tires and originals on the rears since getting the car.

Over the weekend I replaced my battery.  During the week, starting the car to go to work, it started up VERY weak.  I knew something was going on.  After work, for the ride home, same thing but this time the check engine light came on.  I wasn't able to get anywhere that evening to read the code.  Next morning, it would not start.  All electrical would work, but it would not crank over when pressing the button.
 
I couldn't get too mad as this was my own fault.  Its a 2014 and the battery was still original.  I was all set to replace it last fall due to age, but never did.  This Spring I had priced up a new battery and even sprayed the terminals and mount with penetrating oil to prepare for the change, but again, did not pull the trigger.
 
As expected, after the battery was replaced, the car started right up.  I hope there is not an underlying issue of a drain or charging problem.  Time will tell.  Regardless that battery had to be replaced.
 
I went with a Deka Ultimate 786MF battery, $120.00.  (Deka Premium battery is all that is needed, but they were out of stock.)  Deka has performed well in the boat so I figured I'd give them a try in the car.
 
 
 

Hello. Wanted to share my battery replacement experience on my 2018 Journey. Battery was 3 years old and failed to start the car about once a week usually on a Monday morning after not being used over weekend. Thought it might be a parasitic drain so I checked for that and found only short term drain so I replaced the battery with a DieHard Group size 75/86 650 CCA. From Advance Auto even though the size chart said it would not fit it fit perfectly . It had 650 CCA compared to the recommended battery only having 525 CCA. It’s been in the car for 6 months now and is working great in both hot and cold weather. Thought this might be helpful to some of you. 

Hey Everyone! We’re rolling into our 8th month of Journey Ownership and here’s what we’ve done do far! 
 
Miles: 21,102
 
average MPG: 25.3 (I track for my work too) 
low was 21.1 to 27.8 high. 
 
services: 3 oil changes (I use full synthetic!) 1 set of Michelin defenders, 1 new strut (warranty), and a new air filter.
 
so far I’m pretty pleased with the Journey and it’s performance in general. We’re gearing up for a trip to Glacier National Park and I know our little trash wagon is up to the task! 

Something to keep in mind my regular commute includes county roads and even on some work appointments I have to go down some pretty rough roads so a strut is not uncommon! ?
 
Happy 4th everyone. 

I set mine at 36 psi (COLD), but there is a sticker on the drivers door (or frame) that has the tire and pressure specs for you.
 
NOTE when changing pressures, to get accurate sensor readings you need to drive the car some for things to update and with warnings to be able to be self checked and cleared.

Actually, warnings can be set if pressure readings (as shown) go too high for TPMS software program. 42 psi seems a bit high, try lowering down some and see what happens.
   Sensor battery problems tend to have that wheel position drop out showing press.

So my door was hit a couple years ago and last week I found another white door in mint condition from an 09. I thought it was a direct fir but boy was I wrong. I'll let you guys know what I've done to make it work. So the first thing you'll notice is the wiring harness is different. The wiring harnesses need to be swapped. Second issue you'll have is the door opening system. You have to take the system out if the second Gen and put it in the first Gen. You'll need to drill 2 holes that aren't on the first Gen doors but are on the second. These are to secure the latch system and the exterior lock. You'll also have to use an angle grinder to shape the handle hole more to the second Gen door handle.

3.6 hands down. 
 
3.6:
You're gaining nearly 100 horsepower and only losing 2 mpg combined.  3.6hp=280hp You're gaining a 6sp Automatic Transmission, This means smoother drive. Engine sounds quieter, and roars rather than whines. on the highway in top gear it runs at a calm 1500 rpm at 75 mph.  Passing on the highway? pedal to the floor and after an admittedly longggg time for the car to pick a gear- it will rocket. 2.4:
abysmal acceleration on the highways. not enough efficiency gained to warrant the loss of power. 4sp automatic transmission: The embarrassment of all automobiles sold, that this is the only one holding onto a relic of technology from 2 decades ago. (this is probably the reason the engine isn't more efficient.) on the freeway, it's time to pass: you'll miss those extra 100hp when your engine screams in redline and accelerates at a normal rate.

Are you making yourself feel better yet? Yes. We get it. You don't like your Journey. 
 

https://www.google.ca/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&ved=2ahUKEwii57q7p4nxAhWpl-AKHZ0tBScQwqsBMAJ6BAgKEAE&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.youtube.com%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DMNjbwr7w-b0&usg=AOvVaw1CoCigB-4c3cXt01KVOcKA
 
 
Under dash behind steering column. Awkward spot.
 

We got the car back a couple days ago. Seems to be running well.
They checked everything (no issue with alternator or other drains) so hopefully this addresses it and I won't be back on here this winter.
Thanks everyone for the insight.