Summer Solstice

You do have an amp in the back that will sound louder than the front. Of course, you already know this.
 
You may have an impedance mismatch. With the same input power, a 4 ohm speaker will sound louder than a 6 ohm speaker. 4 ohms draws more power from the amp. If the sound from the front is very weak, you may have a bad connection, loose connection at the head unit, or a bad ground. The first process of elimination that I would suggest, in this order:
Check your balance settings in the head unit.
Check all of your connections, depending on which ones you actually have worked with, for something loose.
Unhook the rear amp and see if the volume on the front changes without the draw from the rear.
 
 

You do have an amp in the back that will sound louder than the front. Of course, you already know this.
 
You may have an impedance mismatch. With the same input power, a 4 ohm speaker will sound louder than a 6 ohm speaker. 4 ohms draws more power from the amp. If the sound from the front is very weak, you may have a bad connection, loose connection at the head unit, or a bad ground. The first process of elimination that I would suggest, in this order:
Check your balance settings in the head unit.
Check all of your connections, depending on which ones you actually have worked with, for something loose.
Unhook the rear amp and see if the volume on the front changes without the draw from the rear.
 
 

Here you go (from my Facebook DJ forum) ...
 
 

My first guess would be a bad ground or a loose connection. The battery was just replaced but maybe the cable has come loose. There is also a known issue with a sensor that is part of the negative cable right at the battery. I am not familiar with that one but there is plenty of discussion on this forum about it. Alternately, I just had a issue with my key fobs not working and it was just the 2 year old batteries in them. Does not sound like the same problem you have.
 
Check your battery cables and make sure all of your connections are clean and tight.
 
Good luck.

Than you for the update. Oil pressure sensors are the first suspect if everything else seems fine. Been there, done that on a chevy.

Hmmm, I wonder if I can get Dodge to reimburse me for the transmission in my Chevy? Probably not as it did make it to 125,000 miles.
 
Damn POS!

Hmmm, I wonder if I can get Dodge to reimburse me for the transmission in my Chevy? Probably not as it did make it to 125,000 miles.
 
Damn POS!

Given all of the work that you have done, why not get it aligned? It may drive straight but it could be out enough in multiple components that one offsets the other. With the possible increased tire wear and small reduction in gas mileage, plus the satisfaction of a job well done, are you really saving more than a couple of dollars? Finish the job and then enjoy the fruits of your labor.

Hmmm, I wonder if I can get Dodge to reimburse me for the transmission in my Chevy? Probably not as it did make it to 125,000 miles.
 
Damn POS!

Hmmm, I wonder if I can get Dodge to reimburse me for the transmission in my Chevy? Probably not as it did make it to 125,000 miles.
 
Damn POS!

Nope, sorry. I reinstalled the original abs unit, ran the pump, bled all four wheels multiple times all with no improvement from how it was when the car was brought to me.
 
There’s no warning lights on the dash except the tire pressure indicator light and I’ve checked the tire pressures, they are fine. Speedometer is working again with the original abs unit installed. I don’t think the abs is to blame since it works fine and the pedal firms up when the pump runs. 
 
I couldn’t waste any more time on it so they are taking it to a shop. If the shop fixes it I’ll post what they found. 

Just saw this.  Steve.  We talked about this...  Don't be a hater.   Concentrate on getting your car repaired.  Please log onto your favorite honda forum.  You'll be a star there.   

most cheap parts( not oem) dont work as good on some models, my father yrs replaced a alternator from a parts store on his caravan and it would last about 1 week then go bad they kept replacing it but finally he took it to a dodge dealership they replace it with one of their alternator and he never had any more problems with it.

Given all of the work that you have done, why not get it aligned? It may drive straight but it could be out enough in multiple components that one offsets the other. With the possible increased tire wear and small reduction in gas mileage, plus the satisfaction of a job well done, are you really saving more than a couple of dollars? Finish the job and then enjoy the fruits of your labor.

^^This
I had a 2 year old battery fail with a dead cell. It would charge but would be dead the next day. It was under warranty so the dealer diagnosed it but the dash threw all kinds of warnings and lights.
 
Have the battery and the alternator load checked. Check all of the wiring from the battery out. There have been some who had trouble with a sensor embedded in the negative terminal post clamp at the battery. I don't know anything about that one but something to look for.
 
These vehicles are very subsectable to low or inconsistent voltage.

^^This
I had a 2 year old battery fail with a dead cell. It would charge but would be dead the next day. It was under warranty so the dealer diagnosed it but the dash threw all kinds of warnings and lights.
 
Have the battery and the alternator load checked. Check all of the wiring from the battery out. There have been some who had trouble with a sensor embedded in the negative terminal post clamp at the battery. I don't know anything about that one but something to look for.
 
These vehicles are very subsectable to low or inconsistent voltage.

Charge the battery.  Disconnect the battery.  Leave it for a few minutes and connect it again.  Should start.  Had the same problem.  Our Journey would not start after a 2 day drain. No lights or anything after a battery charge.  Had to disconnect it via the negative post before it reset everything and would start.  Weird.  No logical explanation.  Hope it works for you.  You obviously have something draining it.  You will get a ton of weird codes when your battery is low.  Our code list was a mile long when our battery was giving us problems from low voltage.  All sorts of electrical shit happens during low voltage setting off the codes.  Start with finding the parasitic draw first.  That will solve a lot of your code problems.
 
mechanical-idiot
 
 

1970 Dodge Coronet R/T - 440 Magnum
1977 Chevy Malibu
1986 Chevy S10 4WD -2.8L POS
1982 Pontiac 6000 - Diesel
1991 Saturn SL1
1985 Ford F150 - Included bail twine
1991 Buick Regal
1994 Oldsmobile Ciera - Reliable
1998 Buick Regal
1998 Grand Marquis
2009 Chevy Impala
2016 Dodge Journey R/T
 
First and last on the list are Dodge R/Ts
 
 

dealers are allowed to charge different prices on their parts as well as labor, that is why you get a estimate  before the work is started and also so you can check around at different dealerships i learned this years ago, also you could have got it done at your local garage using parts from part stores although usually not as good of quality parts as oem... and No you wont be able to get an adjustment, but hey its worth a try...good luck

Thanks for all the replies. Whew, I didn't mean to start a brush fire amongst us. So what I'm getting out of this is, there is a way to check the tranny oil, they just don't provide a way, like the good old days. From my limited experience with Dodge cars and automatic transmissions in general (most of my previous cars were manual tranny) it's good to hear all the pro and con. Thanks for all that.  IMHO the first line of preventative maintenance is to check fluid levels and their condition. Surely you would want to make sure your brake fluid was at a safe level and the same for the engine oil and cooling system, so why not the tranny?  My best guess is so people don't mess with it or maybe to save a few $$$ building the car. Neither reason is a good one to me. I'll check out the videos and find out what I can about it.  It's a shame they don't put out a service or repair manual like Haynes or Chilton, I used to buy one for every car I owned and did most my own work. Times have changed, now they want you to buy a DVD for a few 100 dollars or subscribe to a online manual, I think that's BS. So I've learned allot from all this, and hope this car last along time with few issues.

I've got a 2010 Town and Country with a 62TE transmission and 140,000+ miles.  I've had the fluid and filter changed twice (once at 60k, again at 120k, per the manufacturer recommended cycle under severe duty, since it was a rental fleet vehicle before I purchased it).  It had developed a leak at the output shaft seal somewhere around 50k miles, and it was fixed under the powertrain warranty with no issues since.  For every person blasting the component on the internet, there are a few hundred happily chugging along.
 
Things break.  Thing which move break faster.  Things which move and pull several thousand pounds of metal and people break faster still.  A vehicle is not an investment - it is a capital expense.  Never forget that.

Why would you expect that to be fantasy? You have a warranty, right? Sounds like you should talk to the dealer rather than making an assumption. Give them a chance to make it right first.
 
I would also seek out corporate on this. While it may have been out of warranty in the beginning, some times they do stand behind it. Give them a chance to earn the reputation that they will have tomorrow.

Word of advice before paying any dealership for any part - price match the part elsewhere, ESPECIALLY if it's something you can live without for a few days.  A Bluetooth antenna on its own is dirt cheap (you can get a USB PC adapter for under $20).  An automotive specialty part should not cost anywhere near $750.
 
As for the Keyless Enter-N-Go - that's not exactly how that works.  The key fob has to be within 5 feet of the door you are attempting to open.  Go ahead - have someone try to open the passenger front door while you stand near the driver front door - it won't (shouldn't) work.  There is a delay from the time I grab the door handle on mine to when it actually unlocks (less than one second).  That's plenty of time for the door handle to sense an unlock request (the act of touching it creates that request), then transmit a local signal to detect the key fob, receive a return signal from the fob that it is in range and it is the correct key, and return an unlock command to the door(s) in question.  Even mediocre programming wouldn't have it constantly searching for the key fob.

2012 Journey RT AWD kept killing batteries.  Took it to a mechanic.  Couldn't find a parasitic draw.  Got new battery.  Killed it in 6 weeks. 3rd killed battery.
 
Took it to another mechanic.  He did a parasitic draw test.  He found that it was drawing 50 milliamps when sitting in the garage with everything off.  He said that it should not draw beyond 35.  So, he started pulling fuses and replacing them one at a time while checking the draw.  He pulled a fuse called HFM (under the dash on passenger side - hands free module) and the draw went down to 29 milliamps.  Put it back in and kept pulling.  No other fuses reduced the draw.  He told me that the fuse was for the bluetooth.  Son of a bitch!  The bluetooth was intermittent, then quit working for us.  So, we pulled the fuse and have not had a problem with the battery draining since.  We had to have the battery charged on an industrial charger to bring it up to snuff.  He did a slow trickle charge overnight, so it was charged for 2 days.  Seems to have brought the battery back to snuff.
 
New HFM costs 737 dollars Canadian at our dealer (before taxes).  Son of a bitch!  Easy enough to put in (check out youtube for the video), if you don't mind taking off the brake pedal.
 
Seems to be a common problem with a lot of Dodge Journeys.  You might want to pull this fuse first if you have this problem.  Might save you a few bucks in mechanical fees!  Then again, it may be a totally different problem for you.
 
Hope this helps someone out there in the real world.
 
mechanical-idiot

I thought my battery was dead but ended up tweaking the prongs and it started working again.  We'll see if it continues to hold a charge.