bfurth

I concur with the electrical connectivity being the source of your issue. If you know how to work with electrical wiring, go for it. I can't find any direct information regarding the wiring harness involved. If you choose to tackle it yourself, you'll have to pay close attention to what you're doing. Use sensible precautions when working with electrical wiring (don't touch live wires, disconnect the battery, etc.) If you aren't sure how to work with electrical wiring in a safe manner, pay the shop. No sense in doing more damage on your own dime when the shop assumes liability if they screw up.

When you use the floor jack, the correct lift point on the Journey for the front end is NOT the pinch weld. Use the scissor jack for that only in a road-side emergency (unless you like bending pinch welds...) The proper spot is about 4-6 inches inside the pinch weld. I haven't been under it enough to remember what's bolted there (it might be the cross member mounting point, main point being it's structurally sound) - you'll know it when you see it. It's a tight angle to get it, but you can get a floor jack handle to come up between the wheel and fender so you can get a full stroke on the jack. I then typically put the stands just on the inside of the pinch weld - there's a rubberized coating where the emergency jack attaches so it keeps from damaging paint and getting down to bare metal. I also put a hocky puck on the jack saddle to keep from any metal-on-metal contact. Found this image from this video (not mine) - that is what I use as my jack point for the front. Best I can tell from the manual I've got access to, this is the correct front lift point. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hBI_DeyQCWk

And this is why I won't use ramps. That, and the fact that I do a tire rotation on every oil change (#3 coming up next month for my 2015). Fortunately, nothing substantial had any damage for you.

It would be too steep of an angle to get the spare out, unless you put a hinge on the third row to lift the whole thing up (or, you're talking about a hinge on the rear bumper cover). If the former: that gets into a potential safety question - do you make third row passengers get out of the vehicle (on the side of a highway) while changing the wheel? For safety purposes, you have to assume that the vehicle is fully occupied with it's intended passengers (ie, a family with small children sitting in the third row). They're safer in the vehicle than out of it when changing a wheel after an unexpected flat. All other questions with regards to where to keep the spare wheel follow from that assumption. If you go with the latter solution (sliding it out through a hinged door in the bumper cover), you have to re-design the rear bumper. That may or may not work, but you still need a retention mechanism for the tire such that it won't slide out of the storage compartment. You also need to seal said compartment from water and pest intrusion (a minor issue). At that point, the winch is probably less expensive. If protecting the tire is your chief concern, you could always wrap it in plastic and then plasti-dip the sealed package. Inflate to 60 PSI at [hottest typical average temperature in your region] and carry a portable inflator with you (plenty of places to store it in the Journey).

I changed the fuel pump on my old 2003 Malibu about 3 years ago. The fuel in the tank was as clear as what's in my gas can for my lawn mower. And I just purchased that can this year and have only filled it once. Unless you've had a problem with the gas cap, or some other fuel system fault code, I wouldn't worry too much about it.

Also, bramfrank, to answer your question directly: there is no in-vehicle storage option for the spare wheel because of the three-row version of the Journey. You can't stamp the undercarriage two different ways for the same chassis, and the third row takes up the space that would have been used for a storage bin inside the cabin. So, three-row vehicle in a sedan footprint = under body storage of the spare wheel, whether or not you have the third row.

I keep a tarp in the rear storage bin. You never know when you need to hide a body... I mean, change a flat and haul a dirty wet wheel around!

It's a size issue. The 2 row Journey has a rear cargo deck that's about 3 feet by 3 - 3 1/2 feet. The 3 row Journey "loses" that full cargo area (when the seats are in use) and has a small storage bin (about 8 inches long, maybe 6 inches deep, runs the width of the tailgate opening). A panel placed on top of that could become a hazard (it would be able to fly over the 2nd and front row seats in a collision), much less stay put over speed bumps. It's the same kind of latch that's used on the 2nd row bins and on the Grand Caravan/T&C middle row storage area.

Does the latch move without resistance? If so, it's a broken latch. Take it to a dealer and let them fix it. Unless you drive 1,000+ miles a week, it's under warranty.

The alignment is controlled by: shocks/struts inner/outer tie rods control arms Any time any of those are touched for repairs, an alignment check should be performed and adjusted as needed. Alignment can be thrown off by potholes or any other substantial obstruction that jars the vehicle. A 4,000+ pound vehicle moving at 40+ mph is a LOT of kinetic energy. Suddenly and dramatically changing the position of a wheel puts a tremendous amount of force into those components.

Every vehicle I've owned (Ford, Chevy, Chrysler) has gotten to at least 130,000 miles before repairs got to a point where it wasn't cost effective to keep flushing money. And the only one that went that early was a vehicle with a known defect that had been subject to a class action lawsuit over the materials involved (GM 3.1L engine, Dex-Cool, and a poor material choice for the lower intake manifold gasket), and at that, I wasn't nearly as careful about researching vehicles before buying one, nor was I adept at any kind of repair work. If the engine is designed well (the "worst" engine ever used in a Journey is the 3.5L, which is still a fairly solid engine), the vehicle will last. Equally important is a history of proper maintenance. Any vehicle will last as long as you take care of it. When buying a used vehicle, any information you can get on its previous maintenance and repair history is invaluable. A car with complete maintenance records will also probably be more expensive. As for the price tag - sorry to say it, but good luck finding a crossover or SUV for under $5,000 without a very large number for mileage. I did a search for my zip code, and there is 1 Journey within 500 miles under $5,000 with under 100,000 miles. And you couldn't pay me enough to buy another FCA vehicle prior to 2011 (everything got at least a facelift after the 2010 model year). It's also the 3.5L engine, which means unless you have convincing evidence that the timing belt has been replaced, that's priority number 1 after buying it. As far as reliability of domestic versus other manufacturers: My first car was a former fleet vehicle (95 Taurus) with 120,000 miles on it. I put 20,000 miles on it in 2 years (I only paid $2,000 for the car). My sister got it from me for $200, put a few hundred into it, and drove it for another 2 years. It had about 160,000 on it when it was totaled. My second car was bought brand new (05 Cavalier). It lasted me 4 years (had to get a bigger car) when I sold it to my sister for $5,000. It finally died at 150,000+ miles and about 12 years after manufacture. Not bad for a "cheap" economy box. My third car was bought from a friend who had bought it used (03 Malibu). I had it from 2009 until I bought my Journey in 2015. I bought it with about 60,000 miles on it. I put 70,000 more before the head gasket started to go. So, another 130,000+ on a domestic. With horrendous gasket material design that leads directly to premature engine failure, proper maintenance or not. My wife's van (10 Town and Country) has 120,000+ and is, by all appearances, in good mechanical condition. I'm hoping to get another 4 years out of it, minimum. Just long enough to pay off my Journey. We bought it used around 38,000 miles and have put 80,000+ on it of our own. I've done all of the maintenance on it since we bought it, as well as most of the repairs. It eats brakes and power steering hoses, but those a problems I can live with. My Journey (2015) has under 16,000 miles on it. I drive 8 miles round trip for work - I expect to own this one long enough to teach my kids to drive (oldest is 7, so another 9 years before I can even start that goal). TL/DR - take care of your stuff, it will last longer.

P0128 indicates (in order): failed/failing thermostat, failed engine coolant temperature sensor, PCM update needed, low coolant, radiator fan not turning off, or faulty intake air temperature. Thermostat can be tested "the old fashioned way" - squeeze the coolant hose (between thermostat and radiator) while the engine is cold - you should hear coolant moving and push the radiator cap, and you should see the overflow bottle level change as you do this. Get the engine up to temp (10 minutes of driving should be more than enough) and touch the hose - it should uncomfortably hot, but not hot enough to burn (too quickly). This is, of course, assuming you haven't paid someone to do that part already. 2013 Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor should be part 5149077AB. https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Chrysler-5149077AB-Coolant-Temperature/dp/B00FYHR5DY That part is not a piece of the oil filter housing. Removal is a matter of locating the sensor (straight from a repair manual: "The Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor on the 3.6L engine is installed into a water jacket at rear of the cylinder head on the left side of the engine. "), remove the cable, and unbolt it from the engine block (deep socket, not sure what size). You'll need to partially drain coolant before you remove it. Depending on your mileage, it might be time to think about a coolant flush anyway. Otherwise, drain a gallon, then re-fill with new coolant (50/50 mix) when you have the sensor re-installed. Installation is pretty straightforward - just put everything back together. 11 N*m (8 ft.lbs.) to install. Use a PTFE thread sealant. Add coolant, purge air, and you should be done.

To answer the question about maintaining the warranty by only using dealer service: In short, probably not. The Magnusson Moss Warranty Act of 1975 prohibits a car manufacturer (and others, but this part is pertinent here) from imposing service with exact parts and from a specific location (read: at the dealer, using on OEM parts) UNLESS they pay for it. So, if that dealer is actually telling people this, they are either violating federal law, or they are offering to perform all powertrain maintenance (oil and filter changes, transmission fluid drain/fill, spark plug changes for 2.4L, engine air filter, etc.) for no cost for the duration of the powertrain warranty. That act specifically allows you to perform your own maintenance with appropriate parts of your choosing (but they better be compatible - no jury rigging). Keep your receipts, and know that the dealer is lying to you.

This will hold true for just about any FWD vehicle: Why would you ever want to tow with the drive wheels on the ground (unless you're pulling it out of a ditch)? Only bad things can happen, even if you do everything right. Get the drive wheels off the ground - if they aren't moving under their own power, they shouldn't be moving. For the Journey specifically, it's permissible under certain circumstances (not, far, and definitely not fast). Read the owner's manual. And get your Journey on a flatbed if you need it towed - it's inherently less dangerous to the vehicle.

A fuel pump is not "major." No, the car won't go without one, but changing one out is not terribly difficult. If you start with a nearly empty fuel tank, it's about a 2-3 hour job in a driveway.

Well, the OP did start with a vehicle at 45,000 miles. If he didn't get an extended warranty, the only things covered are going to be the (basically) everything from the back side of the throttle body (not including the throttle) to the CV joints. The fuel pump isn't covered under the power train warranty. Fuel, water, and oil pumps are all included on even Added Care+ plans. Max Care covers pretty much everything but brake pads, tires, paint, glass, and upholstery. The moral of this story - the warranty terms mean exactly what they say. First 12,000 miles, anything that goes wrong with anything that isn't impact related (glass or other) EXCEPT the tires is covered. Between 12,001 and 36,000, anything that goes wrong with any component (besides tires, brake pads, or impact related problems) is covered. At 36,001 miles, if it's not the powertrain (as defined above), body rust-through, or emissions, and you don't have an extended plan, it's not covered (unless there's a recall). If you want to keep a vehicle on the road long term, it's going to cost you. Also, yes - fuel pumps are cooled by gasoline. The lower the fuel level, the less "coolant" is available to them. An overheated pump of any kind is prone to failure. Definitely don't let it run dry. I've got a 2010 T&C with 120,000+ miles on it with the original fuel pump and no problems. I had a 2003 Malibu that needed a new fuel pump at 112,000. 45,000 miles in less than 2 years is pretty harsh levels of driving, so some components are going to wear faster than "normal." It's not the years, it's the miles...

The ABS recall includes replacing the ABS module (and a few other components) if needed. If you just recently had the recall performed, there is a good chance of corroded wires that finally gave up after being handled by a mechanic. I would press the dealership to read the code at their expense because of the high chance of something having been damaged as a result of their repair and deteriorated ABS module, which would still be covered under the recall. If the ABS module has failed, then it failed because it was left open to potential corrosion for years before FIAT opened the recall to have it corrected. If the code is not related directly to the wiring harness or the ABS module, then you're on your own - it would be low brake fluid (possibly because it just needs pads) or wheel speed sensors (which are part of the wheel bearing/hub assembly). There is a write up on this site that has the steps for replacing wheel hubs in the DIY section (I know it's there because I wrote it...)

Historic tags on 20+ year old Civics and Corollas. Autonomous vehicles, when the eventually prove more capable than human drivers, will ultimately decrease traffic problems. I'm looking forward to the day when I get in the car and don't have to pay attention to anything until I get where I'm going. And I get there faster because I'm not waiting on dear old grandma/grandpa to re-learn where the accelerator is.

The trim on the exterior of the door at the bottom of the window, specifically at the back.

Library.carr.org/collections/research.asp Click the Car and Small Engine Repair section, then the Auto Repair Reference Center link. I'm not sure if you need a Carrol County library card for access. It's definitely not permissible for commercial gain. This has a very extensive database of factory service manuals. Any of the repair information I've posted here tends to come from this location. You can always print out what you need when you need it. I'm not sure of the benefit of having a full printed manual - search indexing is much more useful.

Yeah, I'll second that 40,000 mile OEM tire tread life. Every vehicle I've ever owned around that 40,000 mile mark needed new tires. It's just how it is. Also, we really don't have a whole lot of choices for the standard 225-55R19 tires. And none of them can be had for anything less than a limb and a first born.

FCA had a bad rep for a long time (earned, to an extent, in the 90s). They've put out some VERY good vehicles in the last 10 years. My '10 T&C (though it has it's issues, like a very poor designed power steering hose) has held up quite well for the 120,000 miles it has. The engine still runs well (burns a little oil, but so do a lot of Chrysler 3.8L), the 62TE transaxle runs fine (I do need to replace the shifter, but that's due to an electrical wire failure that prevents electronic range select - PRND still works fine), and the seats are starting to show signs of heavy wear (but that's what 5+ years of car seats will do to cloth, no matter who makes it). My Journey has some body repairs that are needed (the exterior window trim on both rear doors isn't right), but that's what warranties are for. My radio works a lot better now that my phone has been updated to Marshmallow (my ringtone even plays over the stereo speakers!) Other than some warped plastic, I have zero complains with the Journey. It's easy to access everything for regular maintenance (2.4L), it's good on fuel, it's comfortable, and it hauls everything and everyone I need well enough. Is it a cross-country vacation vehicle for a family of 5 (3 of whom are in carseats or boosters)? No, and neither is any other vehicle in it's 'class.' That's not why I bought it - I have a van for that. But as a daily driver for me and an auxiliary family vehicle? Outstanding vehicle.

It should be immediately in front of the brake booster. Disconnect the negative battery cable and remove the air cleaner housing (you'll need the space). There are 4 fuel hoses that need to be removed (label everything, take photos, do whatever you have to do to put them back the exact same way). Remove the retaining screw, remove the filter. Installation is reverse of removal. No torque values for the screw are listed, so good-and-tight is good enough. I don't have any good information on the depressurization of the fuel system, and the manual I'm reading from doesn't list any specific warnings while changing the diesel 2.0L fuel filter. I'm not familiar at all with diesel engines and latent pressure in fuel lines (gasoline engine fuel lines will remain pressurized even when the vehicle is off, but that's a function of electrical ignition of fuel versus diesel's compression ignition). It may be that shutting off a diesel vehicle shuts off the pump and the engine will continue to burn fuel until there isn't any left - I don't know, I'm not an engineer. If you have any further questions along that line, talk to a mechanic or your local dealership.

Shared parts work quite well in some applications. Why re-invent the wheel (ignition cylinder) when you can have one button that works across an entire fleet of vehicles? That also reduces the number of transponder keys to 1 (maybe 2, depending on how many buttons are needed based on vehicle model) and gives a single troubleshooting structure for the entire product line (if all the parts are the same, the only difference would be tracing wires, which still doesn't matter because if a wire is bad, you replace the entire wiring harness).

Seeing as how part 68034219AL (the rear bumper cover, as of now, this one specifically applies to SE models) hasn't changed since 2009 (at least for the base version, higher trim had a different appearance starting in 2011, but it's still the same hole pattern, width, and depth of the step), it will most most likely fit.