bfurth

You can get replacement emergency keys on Amazon for $6. Take it to your big-box hardware retailer of choice (blue or orange, doesn't really matter) and they'll cut the key for you, probably for free. For some reason, I can't paste links through the computer I'm on to this forum, but do a search for "Chrysler fobik emergency key" and you'll find it. Dealers won't give you a new replacement emergency key because A) there is no practical reason to do so (the key cylinder isn't being changed) and B) copied keys are NEVER as good as the original (sure they work, but don't copy copies, they tend not to).

The 2015 4 speed definitely automatically downshifts IF you get slow enough. If you come to a complete stop in "manual," it should downshift to 1 automatically. Mine won't downshift until I get below 20, and won't downshift from 3 to 2 until it's under 10-15, but it will happen automatically. *From the 2015 owner's manual: The transmission will automatically upshift when necessary to prevent engine over-speed. The transmission will automatically downshift as the vehicle slows (to prevent lugging) and will display the current gear. The transmission will automatically downshift to first gear when coming to a stop. After a stop, the driver should manually upshift (+) the transmission as the vehicle is accelerated.

My point regarding micro-usb is that some of the newer flagship phones from Samsung and LG (and others) are starting to switch over to USB 3.1 Micro-B connectors (about twice as wide as a Micro-USB 2.0 connector). Yes, your argument holds true for the Apple Lightning cable, but can you guarantee that for your entire ownership of the vehicle, you will only ever have a single brand of phone? And if you drill a hole in the plastic, you still have a cable flopping around when it's not in use. But now you also have a hole in the console plastic (which will reduce resale value).

If you drill a hole in the plastic, you'll need to make sure it's big enough for a USB type A plug (the full size wide flat one). It would need to be that big because that is the only side of USB cables that would be useful inside the console that isn't going to change dimensions any time soon (see https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/usb for examples). Newer phones from some manufacturers use the USB 3.1 Micro-B connector, you never know if you'll be required to use an iPhone, etc. The one constant is going to be USB type A. A hole that big is going to be UGLY. And you're still going to have a cable wire flopping around somewhere. Alternatively, take the coin tray from the top of the console and slide it all the way to the back of the console (the notches inside the mounting track for the tray I was talking about are present on both ends for this purpose). The armrest can open in two ways - either opening on the hinge to lift up if you wanted access to everything inside the console, or slide it back about 3 inches (lift the release lever, but push the armrest back instead of lifting it). You can pull the cable up through there, then slide it back forward again. There is more than enough room for this to work, and you can hide the cable when it is not in use without needing to open the armrest completely. It sounds like what you really want is a dock for your phone - get in, plug the phone in somewhere, no messing with cables. That is a different question entirely, and I would suggest using the console for that. The 12v port in the console runs directly from the battery, so a 12v adapter (usually has some power indicator LED) runs the risk of draining the battery. The USB port inside the console doesn't provide enough power to charge a phone (even a cheap bargain bin smartphone like mine, much less an iPhone or a Samsung/LG/etc. flagship model phone). If you want something that won't run the risk of depleting your battery, you would need to use the 12v port underneath the radio (this one runs only when the ignition is in accessory or run - that's what that key symbol means).

Mita Next Generation snow chains - they wrap around the tread of your tire only, and make no contact with the rims at all. I've never used them and don't know anyone who has, but the concept is pretty impressive (especially if you only have one set of rims, and they aren't steel). Otherwise, if you have a set of steel rims for winter (and those of you far enough north to need it regularly usually do), get classic chains that you know how to install quickly and fit properly.

My dealership will match the total price, if it can be confirmed to be a genuine OEM part. If they list the part at $200, but I find the exact same part through a site reputable enough (either listed as another dealership through Amazon, or something similar) for a combined part + shipping price that is ANYTHING less than what they sell (realistically, a price 15-20% lower is what I tend to find for OEM parts), they'll give me the same net price I would have paid. I call that fair - either way, I get a lower price than they originally quoted me, while still getting OEM parts.

You know there are notches for the tray to sit at the back of the console, right?

Jkeaton is right - there is enough of a gap in the console lid/armrest to route your cable.

Can't say I've seen that happen before, but there are several things which might cause something like that. When you press the brake pedal and ignition button, does the vehicle perform as if it were trying to start - switch the indicator light on the ignition button to Run from Off? Does the starter motor kick in when you hold the brake/hit ignition button? If the answer to both is "no," are you sure you don't have a dead battery in your key? Next time it happens, try pushing the ignition button using the bottom (side away from the keyring) of the key. This is the method to start the vehicle when the key fob battery is dead (there is an RFID chip in the bottom of the remote and a corresponding RFID reader in the ignition switch, that way the vehicle can read a proper security code and start the engine). Have you tried with the other key? Again - this would indicate a dead battery or a failed key. If none of that helps, then take a video of it the next time it happens. Use that to show the dealer PRECISELY what is happening when the issue presents itself.

2010 is the 3.5L, not the Pentastar. That procedure probably won't apply. How many miles are on your DJ? If around 100,000, have you replaced your timing belt/water pump? Not sure how much that would cause this particular issue, but those belts are only intended to last 100k miles (and if you have the timing belt off, you may as well replace the water pump while you're at it since it only adds 5 more minutes of work.)

If the wheels come off, get a torque wrench and put them back on! $85 or free, depending on whether or not you already own a torque wrench) If that doesn't work, replace the wheel hub/bearing assembly. Assume about $130/wheel involved. If that doesn't work, replace the entire steering knuckle/trailing arm (depending on the wheel). Probably $150-$300/wheel involved. If none of those were the issue, then I guess it would be ok to replace it for a wheel falling off. Personally, I'm waiting until the engine falls out.

In Maryland, DMV refers to it as a "Sport Wagon." Then they charge me the higher consumer level registration fee (ours is based on GVWH). At least it's only every other year.

So I don't actually hit the end of my first year until Tuesday, but I figure it's close enough. 6,200 miles in (I have a 35 mile weekly round trip commute, and we use our T&C for vacation driving, so I don't go very far with this vehicle very often), and I haven't had to do anything with my Journey since day 1 (discounting the two times I got hit in the first month I owned it). In August (1 year from build date), I changed the oil for the first time (about 3,500 miles on the clock). I used Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5w20 with a Purolator One filter (registered for their 15 year engine warranty). Pennzoil sent me a rebate check for the cost of the oil! I rotated the tires, checked the condition of filters, etc. Everything was good and clean. Net cost for my first year of maintenance? $8. It drives wonderfully (2.4L engine is underappreciated - it's not going to win any races, but it will get you where you're going). Fuel economy is better than stated - I just went 4 weeks between filling the tank, and I probably could have squeezed a fifth out of it if I wanted. 27 mpg highway? This gets better than that (according to the computer). 27 would be if you include hills. I've filled the tank and driven a hundred miles and watched the fuel gauge not even twitch. My normal driving gets about 21-22 mpg. For a nearly 4,000 pound vehicle with a 4 cylinder engine, and enough space to carry the entire family, I can't complain. I only have an SE, so it's not the most heavily loaded Journey out there. That being said, the UConnect 4.3 is an impressive stock radio (and I have the 4.3s, not that I use the satellite anyway). I LOVE the auto-dimming mirror. I just wish it was able to be positioned higher on the windshield. The premium seating group (fold-flat front seat with storage bin) is a must for this vehicle - it opens up additional cargo options that otherwise wouldn't exist. The only options I wish I had but don't are fog lights and auto headlights. And maybe a sunroof. Oh well - such is life on a budget. Now if only it would stop snowing here (seemingly) every week - I want to get back out and clean it!!!

1995 Ford Taurus (former fleet vehicle from US Marshals, bought at auction) - died (for me) of a head gasket failure (sold it to the older of my younger sisters for enough money to get an iPod, and she kept driving it for another 3 years) 2005 Chevy Cavalier (my first NEW car, bought while I was in college) - my youngest sister still drives it (120,000 and counting) 2003 Chevy Malibu (first family car, drove it until the head gasket failed and I bought my Journey) 2010 Chrysler Town and Country - 106,000 and still going strong (primarily, my wife's vehicle) 2015 Dodge Journey - 1 year, 6,000 miles, and 2 collisions! I can't say enough good things about this vehicle!

I had the R03 recall performed for my 2010 T&C. I had three functioning FOBIK transponder keys when I went in, one of them was purchased third party, but was still branded with the appropriate Chrysler logos and part numbers. When I picked the van back up, I was given 3 new FOBIK keys. The recall does not say "we will only give you two keys." The exact language is: NOTE: You will receive two new FOBIK's as part of this recall procedure. If you purchased additional FOBIK's in the past, they will also be replaced. Please bring in all FOBIK's to receive an equal number of replacement FOBIK's. FOBIK's that were replaced in the past due to damage will not be exchanged. Depending on FOBIK availability, you may have to return at a future date to receive any additional FOBIK's. How this works in reality is that the dealership/FCA is responsible to provide you with new FOBIK's equal in number to the amount of currently functioning FOBIK's as you brought with you when you had the recall performed, with a minimum that they give you 2 when the repair is finished, regardless of how many you brought in with you. If you had 4 FOBIK's and only brought them 1 or 2 at the time of the repair, they won't be able to confirm that the other keys ever worked, and thus are not responsible to provide replacements for them. The old keys absolutely will not work with the new WIN module, so they can't be confirmed to have ever worked, so you're SOL. Unless you can get a very generous agent at Dodge/Chrysler Cares.

given the nature of FWD, I would imagine the first steps would be: ***Disconnect the battery!!!*** Remove front wheels, front brake assemblies, left and right axle half shaft/CV joints; drain transmission and disconnect transmission cooler lines; Depdending on what's in the way, remove starter motor and isolate wiring harness, coolant lines (and drain radiator while you're at it) I have no idea how much of the engine would need to be disconnected and removed. And none of that gives you any information for how tight to put things back together. I would suggest that you not begin anything with this task unless you have full, accurate, and reliable information on exactly what steps to perform, and in what order they should be done. Use the correct tools for the job (read: torque wrench when needed) or you face stripped or loose bolts - either of which pose a safety risk to you and the drivers around you. I just checked - Haynes does not have a manual for the Journey yet. You can try Mitchell1 - they probably have it in electronic subscription format.

Priell3 - not in the US you aren't.

I would assume you keep following the same pattern of maintenance until you stop driving it. The 3.5L engine definitely needs the timing belt changed by 102k - it is not something to leave alone. If you're at 120k and didn't change it yet, you are on borrowed time. Get it done, ASAP, or you risk catastrophic failure of your engine. If that timing belt snaps, you may end up needing a new engine. Very bad things will happen, very quickly, if that belt snaps. The labor required to change the water pump is only a few more steps with the timing belt change, so it saves time and money in the long run to do them at the same time, even if the water pump has been fine up to that point. There is nothing worse than spending time (or money) on a job, only to have something else fail that involves spending the same time or money all over again. The major maintenance items include*: oil/filter (this interval should be obvious) spark plugs (every 100k miles - platinum plugs, as are used on the 3.5L and the 3.6L last 100k miles, age is not so important as engine run time/ignition cycles) timing belt (approximately every 100k miles) - this one is imperative coolant (every 100k miles, if you've done the job correctly, otherwise get a test kit and replace when it no longer shows adequate protection) engine air filter (replace as needed based on filter condition - usually every 2-3 years, depending on level of dirt/dust you drive through) brake pads/rotors (inspect at every tire rotation, replace as needed) suspension components (same as brakes) transmission fluid (drain and fill/filter change every 60k or 120k, depending on usage) PCV valve replacement (100k) accessory drive belt (serpentine belt) (replace every 120k, but check periodically and replace when worn) Other than locks, hinges, and routine light inspections, there really isn't much else to look for. Sure, you can exchange power steering fluid every once in a while (no maintenance interval is set for that in any owner's manual I've ever seen), brake fluid exchanges (eventually, it will absorb too much moisture and need to be changed - no system is perfect), and other things will break on you as the vehicle ages. Cars are not as complicated as people make them out to be. *Some of these numbers were pulled from the 2015 maintenance schedule, but the timeline is similar to the 2009 engines. Coolant for a 2009 is different than that of a 2015 (different formula), so change yours every 5 years (or 100k miles, whichever is first).

I would suggest a silicone-based lubricant, not WD-40. I had the same problem on my T&C rear wiper blade about a 18 months ago. I sprayed a silicone lubricant on it and haven't had to deal with it since. Make sure you put some rags around the hinge and spring before you spray - you want to minimize the stuff from getting on the glass and paint just so you can avoid cleaning it up later.

When I say "the Journey may replace the Grand Caravan," I didn't mean "make the Journey into a minivan." I meant, the Journey is already a capable people hauler for moderate sized families on a strict budget (otherwise, they'd buy a minivan, or the Durango - assuming they want to stay with Chrysler). The Journey is almost a direct replacement to the SWB Caravan (see the introduction of the Journey around the same time as the introduction of the 5th generation Chrysler minivan platform and the removal of a SWB option).

The Journey is already a big crossover. Most other crossover vehicles on the market only have space for 5, and a smaller rear cargo area than the Journey. The Journey has space for 7 (sort of), or a nice big cargo area in back with 5. The next step up in vehicle size is the Durango, which is not as cavernous as a minivan, but still bigger than the Journey. The new minivan will not be AWD, even with the hybrid model. You'd think the hybrid would be AWD, just routing the cables from the battery (inside the Stow-n-Go in the middle row) to the rear axle, but it's not. It's all time FWD, for every model of Pacifica.

I doubt the Pacifica replaces the Journey - it's a different vehicle entirely. More seats, more room, more (city/suburban) versatility, etc. It is a minivan, the end. The Journey may replace the Grand Caravan as a vehicle that is under 22k to haul people around. The Pacifica is supposed to start around 26k. Fuel economy for the non-hybrid version was reported at 28 mpg with a 3.6L Pentastar and the 9-speed transmission. Hybrid version loses second row stow-n-go seating (you have to put the battery somewhere), but gains 30 miles of gasoline free driving. The real question - did they keep the functionality of the auto-stick? I use the range select on my '10 T&C for hills, and it is advised to never exceed 5th gear (on the 62TE) while towing. If so, how does that work with a PRND dial? Would they put paddle shifters on a minivan?

You could go through the floor with a drill and a metal hole saw, but I wouldn't recommend it.

Go to http://forum.chryslerminivan.net, navigate to the 5th Generation section, and look up "fobik stuck" - you'll get some answers. Lots of friendly people over there (and me, so take that for what it's worth). As was stated, this forum is for Dodge Journey (or equivalent) owners, so you won't get the most reliable information for a Mopar minivan from here. I happen to own by a T&C and a Journey, but I'm the exception!

It's only because I actually read the owner's manual...