bfurth

Notices are starting to come out. Mine just hit my Mopar account. For anyone who is also having intermittent issues with the steering wheel controls for EVIC and phone - this is potentially affected as well. Some of the potential warning signs of a chafed wire (which is what the recall is about in the first place) are illuminated airbag warning light, unintended wiper operation, and inoperable steering wheel switch. https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/rcl/2017/RCLRPT-17V432-5557.PDF

Look at the back of the seat cushion - does it have a strap? If yes, then the seat has an interior storage compartment and the seat back will fold forward to a flat position. If it doesn't, then you don't. The 2016 SXT required the Premium Group package to get the fold-flat front seat. This would include Sirius XM radio, 8.4" Uconnect, power driver's seat, and daytime running lamps. It sounds like you don't have any of that. Something to keep in mind - the 2016 SXT is NOT the 2015 SXT - it's more like the 2016 SE. They got rid of the AVP and CVP models and de-featured the SE to base.

It's a 2015 with a substantial reproducible problem. This isn't rocket science - it's a warranty claim (assuming you are under 36,000 miles). Maybe there's a way to add a mileage field for all posters with less than 15 posts. That would certainly help drill home the idea that year, mileage, engine, and trim (we already know make and model) are necessary pieces of information when trying to help resolve issues.

With all the work to expose the plugs on the 3.6L, change them all. It would cost an extra $30, but save you a day of work. And, depending on what was wrong with the plug in the first place (assuming the issue was with the plug and not something else), the rest may not be far behind.

Is the crack originating from any previously repaired chip? If so, depending on who repaired it, there may be a warranty claim involved (I vaguely remember SafeLite offering "lifetime" guarantees on their repairs). I had a claim once on my old Malibu that was a chip repair (policy covered repair at no cost to me) that the repair eventually failed (defroster on a very cold morning - instant foot long crack starting from the previous repair). SafeLite had to pay my insurance company back for the repair, but I got to pay for the new windshield (funny how that works...)

Use the Mopar filter for the 3.6 - there is nothing to be gained from using an aftermarket filter. For my 2.4, I use the Purolator Boss PBL12222 (hey, I only change it once a year - leave me alone).

Your local dealership will sell you a fog light kit (there are two versions) for your vehicle. The Mopar website lists them for $234. The difference between kits is one is for vehicles with auto headlights, the other is not (different light switch in the kit). Instructions are available on the ordering page. It does not indicate any computer update is necessary for fog light addition (check with dealer to be certain). These kits are labeled for use on 2011-2015 Journey models (your 2014 SE has the same lower bumper as is pictured on the ordering page). Without auto headlights: https://mopar.chromedata.com/NextGen/C1111#/productDetails/274851/107562665 With auto headlights: https://mopar.chromedata.com/NextGen/C1111#/productDetails/2206248/107563148

Go buy yourself the replacement TPMS module and replace it. Or, if it is at all an option, see if you can borrow one from someone you know who has the same model year as yourself. If it works, great - go buy one. If not, put everything back where you found it and look for other problems. Chances are, it's the module.

Bluetooth will stream anything that plays over your phone audio output. My radio now plays my ringtone (The Imperial March) whenever I get a call. I assume the Uconnect system is set to read only that which is in the phone's primary music app (iTunes for iOS devices) whenever it is connected via USB. I would assume Android would use Google Play Music, unless you have made settings changes (or removed it). Either way - USB is reading a file, Bluetooth is receiving a live stream. Big difference.

I'm not sure there is one. There is nothing in the manual about it's location, and the wiring diagram for the wiper/washer pump system does not indicate a fuse between the BCM and the washer fluid pump.

Ok, looking at how the repair is supposed to be done (by the book) - for the 3.6L, you are expected to drain the cooling system and disconnect multiple hoses. For the 2.4L, the book calls for disconnecting the AC lines. Why?!?!?!? The 2.4L engine bay has so much free space around the engine! Admittedly, I haven't tried it, and don't intend to. I have a lifetime added care+ with a $200 deductible that covers things like this...

$800 for an alternator at 30,000 miles? That's highway robbery! You can get an alternator on the 2.4L and 3.6L for under $250 new. Not sure about the ease of the 3.6, but the 2.4 is right top and front of the engine. No way should labor be $500 (that's 4 hours shop time around here...)

I can't speak for the location of the antenna, but the TPM Module should be located in the driver side rear wheel housing protected by the splash shield. It's connected to the electrical system via a single wiring harness and attached to the body via two nuts mounted on a pair of studs. As a final bit of troubleshooting - are you absolutely certain that the pressure displayed for the front wheels matches reality? Take a weekend morning, set all 4 wheels to 36 PSI, and drive for 10 minutes. Park, wait 20 minutes, and decrease the pressure in one of the recognized wheels (at 29 PSI, the warning light would kick in, but all you're looking for is a substantial change in recorded pressure from that wheel). Drive another 10 minutes. Does that wheel show the correct pressure. If measured reality and module reported pressures don't match, just replace the module. The next step, although more expensive, might be to replace all four pressure sensors/valve stems. 6 years is about the expected lifespan of those batteries. The description I'm reading regarding that module is that it is self contained. As best as I can tell (confirm with your local Fiat dealer), the part number is 56029542AC. There are two re-learn procedures that will work to recognize the new module, should you choose to install it. The first requires a scan tool (unlikely that you have one). The second is much less complicated - keep your Journey off for 20 minutes, then start it and drive above 15 MPH for at least 10 minutes. As for installation, it's painfully simple and as obvious as it seems once you look at it. Remove the splash shield (presumably, you know how to remove plastic rivets in such a way as to render them re-usable), remove the wiring harness, remove the nuts that attach the sensor, re-attach everything. Finish waiting 20 minutes, then drive. Good luck!

Almost 17,000 miles in (yeah, my annual drive is 6,600...) and I just finished maintenance round 3. Everything on the 2.4L engine is so EASY to get to!!! Other than some minor annoyances (one of which is probably covered under a recall that I haven't gotten a notice for yet), I can't complain. Yeah, the 2.4 could do with a bit more power of the 3.6, but I still say I knew what I was getting, and it wasn't worth the extra cost for me even for the handful of times I felt like it really could have used it.

Even my old dumb phone had issues with that USB port. I ended up putting a flash drive in it with music (works great!) and have a 12V charger in the port in the console. I switched the fuse for that port so that it is on only when the ignition is in ACC or Run. Everything stays plugged in, no power drain, I stopped worrying about it.

As my signature states - anything you do with your car is your fault.

If it's a custom seat cover, just change the manner in which the cover is installed. Just don't have the fabricator close the top seam before installation. Fit the cover over the head rest with the top of the seat inside out, stitch the seam, then fit it around the seat back. Custom cover, custom fit, end of problem. It will just cost a little more since it will have to be hand-stitched on site. Also, if by "custom" you mean "after market," the solution still applies. Just rip the seam out at the top, then follow the directions as posted.

Unless you see a puddle of transmission fluid, there's nothing to worry about. I've got a 62TE transmission in my 2010 Town and Country (same as is in the Journey). The only times I've ever seen fluid anywhere near the outside of the transmission where when it need to have the final drive seals replaced (under powertrain warranty), the transmission cooler lines failed (at 120,000 miles), and each time I've replaced power steering lines (steering system uses ATF+4). The transmission is sealed. Check for obvious signs of leaks, but otherwise don't worry about it.

20 Ft-Lbs - that's all you need to install the drain plug. Stop letting people use an impact wrench on it!

There is a chance this is involved with a recall that was just announced regarding the airbag wiring harness in 2011 - 2015 Journey (worldwide, including Freemont). The chafing airbag wiring harness can cause unexpected airbag deployment, unintended windshield operation, and inoperable switches. Since the cruise control activation switches are in the steering column, it's a safe bet they have been compromised as a result of this defect. Give it a week, get your notice of the recall, and take that to a dealer. http://www.cnbc.com/2017/07/14/fiat-chrysler-recalls-1-point-33-million-vehicles.html

FCA announced a new recall for 2011 - 2015 Dodge Journey for a chafed wire in the steering wheel. It could lead to unexpected airbag deployment. Recall notices should start going out soon with a start date for repairs at the end of August. https://www.nhtsa.gov/vehicle/2015/DODGE/JOURNEY/SUV/FWD#recalls

Chrysler 3.5L = Chrysler 4.0L, just under-bored. Belt driven timing (instead of chain, like in the 2.4L and the 3.6L Pentastar) - that's your big potential issue. And also the fact that 2009 was the first production year for the Journey, so it had a higher instance of recalls than later years. This advice holds true in electronics and vehicles (which are basically gasoline-powered computers at this point) - NEVER* buy the first production run! Be wary of the second. 3rd and later will usually have substantially fewer problems. 2013 was the third year with the Pentastar engine - I haven't heard of any issues from Journey or Grand Caravan/Town & Counntry owners with that engine after the cylinder head problem of 2011. Production run counts start over again when the engine changes; cosmetic adjustments don't count for much. *Unless you're buying a performance car, like the Demon. Then buy it if you can afford it and the potential headaches.

It should be .043". The actual part, from everything I've ever been able to find (without actually taking mine out or calling a dealer), is an NGK ZFR5F11 plug. The plug is copper and should be replaced every 30,000 miles. You could replace it with platinum or iridium, but the engine may not perform as well. The price difference is also negligible when you take into account that platinum and iridium could last 2 - 3x longer, but also cost 2 - 3x as much as copper. Stick with copper. 3 auto manufacturers had input in building the 2.4L engine - I'd like to think that many engineers have somewhat of a clue as to what they're doing. It's also a grand total of 10 bolts/nuts to remove (4 plugs, 4 ignition coils, 1 engine cover bolt, 1 negative battery terminal) for a change. If it takes you more than 30 minutes, you did something wrong.

I assume you are referring to the Power Transfer Unit fluid change (due at 6 years or 60,000 miles/96,000 km)? According to the manual I'm looking at: 1 - you need to remove the heat shield (bottom and side) - the side has a retaining clip on it that needs to be pried out and replaced when finished 2 - you need a 7/8" long 10mm hex bit - if you can't find one, take a 10mm allen wrench and cut a 7/8" long piece off the end with a hacksaw 3- you need a 10mm ratcheting box angle wrench (flexible head will probably work, but I make no guarantees - about this claim or anything else) You would think a 10mm allen socket would do the trick in this case, but the clearance might not be enough to fit the 1.5" long socket plus the head of the wrench in there. What this manual seems to be suggesting is a makeshift version of the same, but with half the clearance. Put the drain bolt back in before you use a gear oil pump to install new oil. Manual says 26 ft-lb for the drain and fill bolts, 105 in-lb for the heat shield bolt.

I can't find information specific to the 2010 (or 2009). For 2011, it would seem that an engine removal is not necessary, but you do need to partially disconnect a few engine mounting bolts and the fore-aft crossmember. This is a pretty involved repair, and I wouldn't attempt it without explicit documentation and an extensive tool kit. Preferably one that includes a lift - a steering gear is heavy and you may need a second person to help maneuver it into place. That's difficult to do when the vehicle is less than a foot off the ground.