bfurth

Tie the dash cam into the 12v circuit under the center stack - it's permanently tied to the ignition. End of problem.

Check with your local library system. You might be surprised with what you can find. The Carrol County library in Maryland has a subscription to Auto Repair Reference Center (arrc.ebscohost.com) with a vast store of information on most makes/models/years, which effectively includes more or less complete factory service manuals. The most recent DJ it has listed is the 2014, but there haven't been any groundbreaking changes since then. While physically in some branches, they have access to ALLDATA Repair (the same thing you're talking about with an annual subscription, but paid for through your tax dollars and available for everyone).

Lack of proper temperature from vents sounds like a blend door/actuator failure. You should be able to hear the doors changing position if you switch between floor/mix/dashboard/defogger. Put temperature control in manual (assuming you have automatic climate control), set the fan to the lowest speed, turn the radio off, and kick everyone else out of the vehicle (basically, make it as quiet inside as possible). Then switch the vents between the different output options and listen for the door actuator. If it's not coming out of the vents you are telling it to, that's more information for the dealership. Also, when doing this, make sure that the dashboard vents are fully open - you want to eliminate as many variables as possible. Dealerships can only fix what you can explicitly prove is malfunctioning. If you can't prove it's broken, it's not broken. Going in with that mindset helps immensely. Edit: Reading your initial problem report again sounds like a potential temperature sensor problem than a blend door issue (ignore everything I wrote earlier). Have they bothered checking the actual air temp inside the cabin and comparing that to what the sensors are reading?

It's also an "emissions ready" check. If you leave it in "run" without starting the engine, the light will illuminate, and then either stay solid if the vehicle is ready for an emissions test (no pending trouble codes) or flash 10 times if it's not ready (existing trouble code, or not enough data since the last time all codes were cleared/battery was disconnected). Now, does the light turn on once the engine is running if you start from "ACC," or does it immediately turn off once the engine is running? Also, can you get the engine to start without pressing the brake pedal? If so, that's a separate issue with your vehicle that needs to be addressed. It should only be possible to start the engine with the brake pedal depressed.

That's what lemon laws are for. If you make a few hundred thousand of something, a few of them are bound to be wrong somewhere. Warranty and legal protections exist for that reason alone.

Vehicles up through 2015 have the 5 year/100,000 mile powertrain warranty. 2016 and later was shortened to 5 year/60,000 mile. $130 for 3,000 mile change intervals? The 2014 has a 10,000 mile/1 year/whenever the warning message appears change interval. 3 months/3,000 miles is brutal overkill for these engines. Any 5w-20 oil that meets Chrysler MS-6395 is fine to run in these vehicles. I use Pennzoil Ultra Platinum in mine. The oil change reminder clicks off like clock work in the last week of July.

I'll vouch for this. The site is legitimate, I bought a Mopar factory extended lifetime warranty for my 2015 DJ through them, and at a lower cost than it can be obtained elsewhere.

Front heater core is around $100 on RockAuto (I'm sure OEM is more). You would also need a coolant flush (DIY, assume another $50 in coolant and distilled water). Heater core replacement for the Journey is in the neighborhood of 5.5 - 6 hours of labor. If you have to pay full cost, expect a repair bill around $800 - $900. Did you ever add coolant to your Journey? If so, did you make sure to add the right type? Dealer is probably going to ask the same thing, because while a leaking core could just happen, it probably doesn't (depending on what failed). The first (real) step in removing the front HVAC assembly is to drain and recover the refrigerant from your cooling system. Based on that alone, this is not really a DIY job. Talk to your local dealer, and talk to Dodge Cares - that's a VERY premature failure on a part that can be reasonably assumed to last the life of the vehicle.

Is coolant lower than you would expect given the current ambient temperature range? Have you checked the condition of your engine oil? If it has an appearance similar to chocolate milk, it would be a head gasket failure (not necessarily a job you can't DIY, but depending on your skill set, one that might need to be paid for).

A 62te would physically fit in the engine bay with a 2.4L engine, but that doesn't mean it would work. You'd need to reconfigure the entire drive line (new axle shafts would likely be necessary). New computers everywhere (possibly all of them). The list of potential problems are more expensive than just buying a different DJ with a Pentastar engine and the 62te. Now, if you were intending on converting the entire vehicle's driveline because you wanted to see if it could be done, then have at it. Just understand that you will have no support from FCA. You're on your own for that one.

Due to the need to reprogram the TCM, this is not a DIY job. You don't have the tools, nor are they cost effective to purchase and then DIY this repair. Have a mechanic do it, or trade it in and get a newer vehicle. Those are basically your two viable options. Edit: To be much more clear: you NEED a StarScan tool to complete the job. It cannot be done without one. That tool, on EBay, will run you nearly $2,000. That doesn't include access to a data source for the firmware that will be loaded on the TCM. In the US, there is also a legal requirement to physically document on the vehicle the date and mileage at the change whenever the TCM is changed because the odometer will no longer necessarily be accurate. So, really, you can't do this repair at home. It won't work.

Mine makes that clicking, my mother's makes that clicking (both 2015 2.4). https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2008-current-dodge-avenger/347441-2013-avenger-shut-off-noise.html It's the engine (specifically, the header and cam shaft) design. The 2.4L World Gas Engine, from 2007 until basically now, hasn't really changed. The engine block was designed across Chrysler, Mitsubishi, and Hyundai. Each company then developed their own header. I took mine in to the dealership 3 weeks after I bought it with the exact same complaint. I was told it was normal behavior for that engine. By then, the engine had been in production for 8 years, across 7 different Chrysler vehicles (Sebring, 200, Avenger, Caliber, Journey/Freemont, Compass, and Patriot). I've had no issues with power (other than a lack thereof, which I knew about on day 1 - such is the life of a 7 passenger vehicle with a 2.4L 4 cylinder) or fuel economy, it consumes no oil, and it revs just as freely now as it did off the lot.

There's only one light for the transmission range indicator. That you have two lights on indicates either the P and N are extraordinarily dirty, or there is something blocking them from underneath. You'll need to disassemble the console to identify the root cause. To remove the console cover: Place shifter in Park Disconnect negative battery cable Remove shifter knob Open the console lid Remove coin holder and bin liner Use a trim stick (plastic, don't use metal tools) to disconnect and remove the shifter bezel (extends up to the back of the console lid) Remove the four bolts at the bottom of the console storage bin Disconnect the wiring harness located near the shifter Disconnect the USB harness located in front of the shifter Remove the floor console To remove/replace the light: rotate the light socket 30 degrees counterclockwise and pull straight down Installation of all is reverse of removal. Given that you bought the vehicle a week ago, you could also ask the dealership to check it out for you. That seems like it ought to be a basic safety issue. For example, the Maryland safety inspection for sale/registration of a used vehicle requires that the gear range select indicator is accurate (PRND switch indicator properly shows what gear you have actually selected, and the transmission agrees with you). I would argue that the ability to tell this in the dark is critical. That means the light should work as designed.

I don't even need to hear the audio - mine has done the same thing since day 1. The variable cam shafts for the 2.4L are operated by hydraulic pressure using engine oil and it is powered by the oil pump. When you shut off the engine, you will hear a few clicks as pressure dissipates and the cam returns to it's off position. There is literally nothing to be worried about. *This is, of course, assuming that the clicks are faint and sound like a spring being wound one turn too far.

Both Mopar ATF+4 and Mopar Power Steering Fluid +4 comply to the same material standard (MS-9602). Everything I've seen from my 2010 Chrysler T&C to my 2015 DJ is that either fluid is acceptable. I have done a replacement of my van's power steering pressure hose, twice. Parts were sourced from a dealership. They sold me ATF+4, even when explicitly told what repair I was performing. Other than the hose failing again, the same way the original did (because of a poorly designed part), I haven't had any issues.

Before taking it to a shop - actually check the battery. Not jump start, not look at the lights, but actually get out a multimeter and check the voltage. Also, because it's not clear - how old is the battery?

If you think heat makes plastic brittle, just watch what cold does to it! I was at a football game on New Years Eve, the team handed out plastic "2018" light up glasses. I tried to open mine, but one of the arms popped out. I tried putting it back in, but the mount point on the frame snapped off. Oh, and the kickoff temperature was 19 F with a wind chill in the mid single digits at 4:30 PM in Baltimore. It was cold.

Of what use is a light that is under the hood? If you're popping the hood because something is wrong on the side of the road or in an empty parking lot, there's a good chance it's power related. If it's not, it soon will be by running an unfocused light with enough strength to clearly see the engine bay. Get a good LED head lamp and keep it in the glove box or in the storage bin with the scissor jack.

That would be the first time I've ever heard of that. It's a piece of injection molded plastic - not exactly something that screams "high value." Find a better lube shop - they forgot to put the cap back on. Also - take the time to clean (not with water, but careful use of solvents) the valve cover, exhaust manifold, head, and block of all that burned oil. If you develop a leak later on, it will make things easier to find. Even better, if you last had your oil changed recently, go back to the shop that did it and ask them to clean it. And remember - any time you have someone else do work on your car, verify parts are in place before and after the work is completed!

Those rubber hangers actually serve a useful purpose (vibration dampening/noise reduction). Now if only there were a way to install one with a clamp instead of a Freudian effort... Some variation of this:

Try this video. Also, ignore the model years - they're wrong on the early end, and don't matter since the 3.6L is the same for all Journeys that have one. You don't "need" any special tools (you should use a torque wrench, and most DIY parts stores should be happy to rent you one). You can definitely save $140 by doing it on your own, IF you want to spend the potentially 2+ hours figuring it out. It's always a question of what your time is worth to you. And whether or not you trust the information gleaned from this video. I'd also recommend checking your local library system to see if they subscribe to any kind of online service manuals. There's a decent chance they do, in which case you have much more detailed information available to you than you realize.

There is a world of difference between the 3.6 and 2.4. The 2.4 is "Remove engine beauty cover, unbolt coil packs, remove coil packs, remove spark plugs, installation is reverse. The end." 3.6 requires removal of the intake manifold and temporary re-routing of several cables in the process. It is physically impossible to get to them without removing the intake. The plugs are RER8ZWYCB4 (iridium plugs, they sell for about $7/each, you need 6). $180 for that engine, with parts, labor, and a 10% shop fee is not unreasonable. It's about an hour long job for a well trained mechanic ($120/hour in labor, $40 in parts, +10% shop fees = $176, local tax laws could easily account for the other $10).

This may be a bit late to the party, but for future reference: The 2.4L calls for: NGK ZFR5F11 (copper) plugs with a .043" (1.1mm) gap, torqued to 20 ft. lbs. (27 N*m), changed every 30,000 miles (age is irrelevant). Those numbers appear to apply to all 2.4L North America builds of the Dodge Journey (numbers are accurate and unchanged from 2009 through 2014, no reason to assume they changed for 2015 and later since it's still the same engine).

They shouldn't be guessing. If they don't know how to fix it at the shop, they contact the Chrysler engineers. That's why you take it to a dealer for warranty (or uncommon problem) work instead of independent mechanics who have to rely on experience and manuals. Also, you're (presumably) under warranty and they tried to fix it once already.

They screwed up when they bled the brakes. My first guess would be they need to bleed the ABS module. Bleed brakes Computer involved procedure for ABS bleed Bleed brakes again And the shop you took it to is on the hook for all of it. They should have done that when they had that much of your brake system disassembled.