bfurth

I have a 2015 with 22k miles (35k km) which has had nothing done with it other than oil and filter changes (besides a few collision repairs - none of the events happened while I was even moving!) Fuel economy is starting to fall off from original, but I'm replacing the spark plugs this summer which should clear that up. I've spent under $150 on maintenance in the 3 years I've owned it. I don't know what your reliability will be using LNG, but otherwise I've been very happy with mine.

That requirement for you to pay for the flush isn't outrageous. You paid for a maxcare warranty, brake calipers are a covered component. If you bring them an opened brake hydraulic system, they're going to charge you to fix it (unless it was caused by a failed caliper piston seal). You took it apart, they would have to put it back together, and "user interference" is not something covered by the warranty.

Their presumed cost to value ratio doesn't quite add up. They are fantastic vehicles (I've gotten a chance to ride in an X - it's impressive to say the least), but they are outside of the price range of most consumers. They are pushing technological advancements though. Elon Musk has his hands in a lot of different pots. Public transportation with the hyperloop and the means to deploy it (The Boring Company), solar power generation (their purchase of Solar City and the solar shingles that Tesla is starting to produce), energy storage (PowerWall), satellite broadband internet (Starlink project at SpaceX), and fully reusable rocket boosters (Falcon 9, expected to be replaced with a fully reusable rocket in the Big Falcon Rocket). It's almost like he's planning for humans to leave this planet and still be able to function... http://www.planetary.org/blogs/jason-davis/2017/20170929-spacex-updated-colonization-plans.html

Don't use universal coolant for one. Mixing coolant types will cause blockages in the radiator or engine at best, heavy corrosion at worst. Get the coolant flushed correctly as soon as possible. Check the consistency of the engine oil. Yellowish to black is fine, chocolate milk like is a failed head gasket. You also want to check hoses, especially any that are above hot components (like the exhaust manifold). If it's leaking from there, it will drip onto the heat shield and evaporate before you can see the leak. One last place to check off hand would be the coolant overflow bottle - make sure it isn't cracked.

Service fill (pan drop, drain, new filter) is supposed to be 5.5 quarts of ATF+4. A complete overhaul (100% drain) is 9 quarts. There are plenty of videos out there for how to check the fluid level in a Chrysler 62te transmission, especially since this transmission is in the Grand Caravan (2008 and on), Town and Country (2008 until end of model), Journey, Nitro, and a bunch of other vehicles. Your tool list should include sand paper (to rough up the end of the next piece of equipment to give the oil something to grip), a wire coat hanger, a knife (to mark the high and low points on your makeshift dipstick), pliers, a tape measure, duct tape, and a scan tool (to check transmission temperature).

P0562 is a low battery voltage error code, and it can happen from doing nothing more than attempting to jump start another vehicle. It is triggered when there is a 10V measurement from the battery for 60 seconds while the engine is running. All of the other error codes you're encountering are throttle pedal/body position/voltage warnings. For a 2013 - is that the original battery? If so, forget testing it, and ignore any test results with it. Just replace it. A 5 year old battery is on borrowed time as it is. As for the other three issues, it could be the throttle, it could be the throttle pedal. It could be an underlying voltage problem causing everything. Start with the battery and work your way towards the throttle body. If it is a failed throttle body, the replacement procedure is not that bad for either 2.4L or 3.6L. Procedure is disconnect battery, remove the intake resonator, remove the throttle body electrical connector, remove throttle body, clean mating surface, reinstall (this is not an exhaustive list of steps, nor is it intended to be). The 2.4L does have a computerized re-learn procedure, so you might want to look into whether or not you can do it without a scan tool (I don't know, and usually the online manual I use tells you if there is an alternative). The 3.6L does not mention any specific re-learn procedure.

I hope it doesn't end up being a 2-row vehicle. The biggest selling point for me of the Journey was that it was a 3-row vehicle, but wasn't a minivan (I already have one, and don't need a second thank you very much). It also isn't the enormous cost of a Durango. FCA needs a modern 3 row budget-friendly platform since they didn't update the Grand Caravan when the Pacifica rolled out. The Journey is a perfect balance for any family like mine (bunch of kids, already have a minivan, just need something for Dad to drive around every day, but still handle family hauling in a pinch). A 2 row vehicle can't do that for me (4 kids now!)

There is only module for all 4 wheels. It's a single electrical connector and two nuts that attach to the studs inside the wheel well. You'll need to raise and support the rear end of the vehicle so you can remove the wheel to gain enough access. Including the re-learn procedure, this shouldn't be more than a 1 hour job.

For the $100 diagnostic fee, you could fix it yourself. The module is located in the left rear wheel well behind the splash guard, held onto the body by two nuts. The re-learn procedure for a new module is to let the vehicle sit for 20 minutes, then drive it for at least 20 minutes above 15 mph. You've already done the basic troubleshooting (rotating tires and watching to see if the failure point moves). It's not the wheel sensors or the problem would have travelled with the bad component. I think this is the right part number: 56029542AD (Module - Tire Pressure Monitoring). It's less than the diagnostic fee to determine if it is the failed component (multiple sites listing for around $95). Check with a dealer for the correct part number before putting money down for it.

The question is whether or not it is "factory certified" or if it is "dealer certified." As an industry practice, a factory certified (Certified Pre-Owned) used vehicle will be in "as close to new as possible" condition - little wear, few if any barely noticeable cosmetic issues, no history of accidents, well maintained (with records), etc. Basically, you can tell with certainty that the vehicle is in the best possible condition that it can be. Then there's dealer certified - which isn't worth the window paint that was used to write it on the windshield. It's all still a gamble. If you aren't familiar with working under the hood and how to check for obvious signs of failure on suspension and drive components, have a trusted mechanic look at it before you spend any real money. Depending on the state, you may also have a 3 day return window for a full refund.

Nothing a little soldering or wire splicing can't fix (assuming the same number of cables, and no safety devices exist inside the connector). Just remember, if you set your car on fire, it's not my fault.

By the time I ever use this on the DJ, I will have obtained cross bars (most likely OEM). The T&C had them when we bought it. So, the only thing I got out of this was "make sure it locks" (seemed obvious to me at the beginning, and I wouldn't entertain purchasing one that doesn't, but ok). Any recommendations on whether or not it's worth it to spring for the gas lifters?

Seeing as how my DJ (and my T&C) is full (4th kid is a month old now!), I need some options for additional cargo space for upcoming road trips. My DJ has the side rails, but I haven't obtained cross bars for it yet. Primarily, this solution will be used with my van, but I want the option of switching back and forth as needed. I intend to purchase the factory cross bars for the DJ at some point. What I don't want: soft carriers, or anything that installs directly on painted surfaces Storage of the carrier is not a major concern - my basement is fairly open, and I'm pretty sure I could fit a cargo carrier into my attic (once I remove the now-disconnected AC system...) What recommendations do any of you have for something that will fit the DJ (anything that fits this will fit the T&C)? Budget is somewhere around $500, but can be flexible based on what's out there. Alternatively, if I'm overthinking this, let me know.

For clarity sake - I meant one upstream and one downstream O2 sensor, not two of each. The upstream sensor is at the front of the catalytic converter just behind the joint between it and the exhaust manifold. The downstream is in in the middle of the converter. They are listed as two different parts (from what I can see, though I don't have part numbers for either).

There should be two sensors (upstream and downstream). Replace both, but keep in mind, this is only diagnostic work at this point. Your catalytic converter may have failed as a result of the extraordinarily long spark plug change interval. Start with the sensors, but be prepared for a new converter.

That is pretty bad. For your brake bleed - I'm hoping you bled them in the correct order (left rear, right front, right rear, left front). Yes - it does make a difference (see: my first attempt at bleeding brakes on my T&C, which shares many of the same brake components as the DJ). If there is any spongy feeling in your pedal, go back and do it again in that order. Per specification, the gap should have been 0.043" - though, I hardly think the .001" would make any difference (and really, who can gap them consistently to 1 ten thousandth of an inch?) considering the gap it's coming from! Mainly, that's FYI for anyone else coming up on spark plug changes.

Wow, your starter had to be replaced? I hope that your shop capped the power cables while the starter was disconnected. That's how you lose electrons!

The OEM spark plugs are copper and have a 30,000 mile life. After that, the electrode has worn to a point that fuel economy starts to trail off and you risk incomplete combustion in the chamber (which will then start dumping unburnt fuel into your exhaust, and that will wreak havoc on your catalytic converter). Don't replace them with anything but copper, and replace them when the engine is cold (do it in the morning on a weekend after it sits overnight) due to the metal header (hot metal is more malleable). The plugs are about $2-$3 each. Don't overtorque them (book calls for I think 25 ft-lbs, give or take), and make sure the rubber insert of your spark plug socket comes back out after you're done (that was a fun story... change plugs on a friend's car, then she had intermittent misfires for a year and a half). The transmission fluid should have been changed at 60,000 miles for your use (effectively, it was a "fleet or taxi" vehicle), and then AGAIN at 120,000. The 6-speed (62te) gearbox does not have a transmission fluid dip stick. The 4 speed does. As far as the service tech and the internet go - I'd put a LOT more faith in the owner's manual for the service schedule. There's a lot of good information out there, but there is also 10x more bad information as well. One last point about transmission fluid changes - the first time I had it done on my van (2010 Chrysler T&T, same 6-speed as the Journey), it came out to about $135. The cost of materials (I think it was 6-8 quarts of ATF+4, filter, and the bottle of RTV for the new gasket) was about $100 of that. It's a lot of work for a low profit margin job. And it's in the dealerships best interest for your vehicle to have a failing transmission after your powertrain warranty has expired (because then you either have to pay for a new gearbox, or - even better for them - buy a new vehicle). As for FCA, yes, the same does apply to them, but to a lesser extent. Fleet use vehicles have a 60k mile service interval for the transmission, which is still inside the powertrain warranty (or at least was when your vehicle was built). Recommending that change at 60k is suggesting it is necessary to maintain proper function of the transmission for the life of the vehicle. But what do the engineers who designed these things know? Surely not as much as the dealership technicians (who are NOT FCA employees).

https://moparonlineparts.com/docs/82212736.pdf Good luck. I'd recommend using the actual wiring harness. If you can't find one, I'd strongly recommend getting the wire gauge information from someone who does have it. Electricity is not something to play with if you aren't well aware of what you're doing. As for the correct wiring harness, you could always search for one at a junk yard. The factory kit comes with two wiring harnesses - one for the lights, and the other to run from the lights to the BCM.

Have the 10 year old climb through the rear hatch until the 2 year old is bigger and stable enough to ride in a booster seat. Then move the oldest (probably 12 by then) to the middle row and the middle child to the back. We're about to have #4. Fortunately, the DJ is my daily driver, not my wife's. She's got the van. For the DJ (and only when needed), we're going to have an 8 year old and a not-quite 6 year old in booster seats in the 3rd row, a rear facing seat for the not quite 3 year old in the second row, and the infant carrier without base on the 40 split side of the 2nd row. Everyone will be able to get in easily enough. By the time the formula changes, the 2nd youngest could ride in a booster in a pinch (which is the only need for the DJ to be the people hauler anyway).

If you want to talk Journeys, stay here. If you want to talk about Mopar minivans, go here: http://forum.chryslerminivan.net/forum.php. Not sure if this violates any terms of service of this site to plug other forums, but they're not exactly competing for the same audience, and I happen to be semi-active on both.

Put the vehicle on stands, remove the driver front tire, remove the wheel well cover, and disconnect the battery directly.

I don't have one, nor have I ever used one. It also doesn't matter because every time I change the oil in my DJ (and my T&C), it's time for a tire rotation. That being said: You have to get under the DJ to change the filter (unless you have a 3.6L). Either way, there is enough ground clearance with the DJ that I could change the oil without lifting the front end if I had to. I'm 5'10", 220, and I can get far enough under the engine bay to change it from the ground. Also, the change interval on the DJ is annual/10,000 miles/when the light says to change it (not likely before 5,000 miles). It's almost always going to be time for a tire rotation when you need to change the oil. If you don't care about uneven wear on the tires, get ramps. That's going to be more effective than a pump. My typical oil change on my 2015 DJ (2.4L) runs about $40 or less. That's using Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5w20 with a Purolator Boss filter. I wouldn't bother changing the factory oil at 3,000 miles, but that's me. There is nothing in the owner's manual (unless it's a new requirement for newer model years, which I doubt) about an early change for the factory fill. Ramps will set you back $40 - that gets you a set of 12,000 pound rated ramps. For the DJ, you could use just about anything to raise the front end up to an incline. If you want to maintain a Pacifica (I assume the new minivan, not the old crossover), you would need to raise the front end to gain access to the drain bolt. Throw in an oil drain container (pan + store 16 quarts of used oil) for $15. If you want to perform tire rotations, get a 3-ton jack and stands (about $140 combined) and a torque wrench (not more than $80). The price of 4 oil changes with tool purchase would be $380. Compared to paying about the same for the first 4 anywhere else. After that? The tools are free. And, as stated previously, you don't have to rotate tires if you don't care about uneven wear (I don't recommend that). On a side note - Ultra Platinum is typically hit or miss when it comes to price. If Amazon and WalMart both have it in stock, it's $25 for a 5 quart jug. If only one of them has it in stock, it's $40 or more. As of 1:15 on 3/19/18, they both have it and it's cheap.

Backup camera, for the sake of backup only, usually gets installed on the backup light circuit. That circuit is only ever live when the transmission is in reverse. A dashboard camera, which is presumably intended to be on when the vehicle is on, should be tied to a circuit that is only ever live when the vehicle is in Accessory or Run. Either the 12v port under the center stack or the 12v port inside the console (IF you switch the fuse to the correct position) fits that bill.

Instead of going the nuclear option (which may or may not work, and is likely to cause all sorts of other problems since the entire climate control system routes through the OEM radio), did you try finding the correct Hands Free Module part number from the dealership for your vehicle? If it's a failed Bluetooth module (which they call the Hands Free Module), a "reboot" (which is caused by them disconnecting the battery) may have temporarily fixed it ("when in doubt, reboot"). If so, Try replacing it first (it's located behind the steering column). If that doesn't fix it, then replace the OEM radio with another OEM radio. Those are pretty much the only components (other than the steering wheel button panel - btw, have you tried using the phone directly through the radio instead of just the steering wheel buttons?) involved in the hands free setup. The final component failure assumption I'm making here (because you really didn't give a lot of information other than "it doesn't work") is a dead microphone, which would require replacement of the rear view mirror. Also, and I truly hope you tried this before spending tons of money, did you delete the device pairing from both the radio AND the phone, then pair the phone to the radio again? One last point - given the $600 price tag, my guess is they suspect a failed Hands Free Module (the part retails for ~$300, plus the hour and a half of labor it would likely take to get to it, replace it, and put the dashboard back together. $600 doesn't get you a new radio head unit. For reference sake, the part will look similar to this (this may or may not be the right part number for your particular vehicle - check with a dealer before you buy anything): https://www.moparpartsoverstock.com/p/Dodge_2013_JourneyFWD--36L-V6-24V-VVT--6-Speed-Automatic-62TESXT/MODULE-Telematics/10583090/68222278AA.html