Journeyman425

You can contact Chrysler's customer service number, but in this case I don't see that as the most effective solution. That is usually reserved for issues where your dealer is not helping you or if you wish to complain about a specific, unresolved problem. They will not likely have any knowledge of missing sales codes and they have no contact with STAR (Service Technical Assistance Resource center) so I don't feel that a call to them will help you. STAR cases are opened by the technician in the shop or by the service manager. I'm not certain if that will resolve the missing sales code issue, either, but I'll explain. Just before the DRL sales code "LMK" was put back in the menu, I found a STAR case that advised the shop to open a case and request the sales code. I don't know the end result of that request since is not something I can see unless my shop opened the case. So, in this instance the only thing that I think your dealer could do would be to contact STAR and request the sales code and see what happens. I'll monitor the menu from time to time and see if it comes back just like the DRL code did.

LeRoy - I checked your VIN and tried to add LMG to your options, but it does not appear in the drop-down menu of sales codes. This is why you've not been able to get it added. While I was there, I added LMK for you so you can enable your Daytime Running Lights the next time a vehicle restoration is done at the dealer. We went through this last year with DRL - the sales code LMK just vanished one day and was missing for months with no explanation from Chrysler - and at the beginning of this year, it re-appeared in the same drop-down menu that used to contain LMG. Your dealer may have to open a STAR case and request that LMG be added, if possible. Once your dealer does this then the STAR center will respond and advise if it is possible. Sorry that I could not be more help to you. Not sure why your PM was blocked - I've been receiving them from some other members.

Sean - I checked your VIN and tried to add LMG to your options, but it does not appear in the drop-down menu of sales codes. This is why you've not been able to get it added. While I was there, I added LMK for you so you can enable your Daytime Running Lights the next time a vehicle restoration is done at the dealer. We went through this last year with DRL - the sales code LMK just vanished one day and was missing for months with no explanation from Chrysler - and at the beginning of this year, it re-appeared in the same drop-down menu that used to contain LMG. Your dealer may have to open a STAR case and request that LMG be added, if possible. Once your dealer does this then the STAR center will respond and advise if it is possible. Sorry that I could not be more help to you.

PM the last eight digits of your VIN along with the approximate mileage and I'll add the code for you.

Holy crap that is funny! How ironic.

Welcome to the forum and to Journey ownership! Good year; 2013

What's the ETA on repair time?

I feel your pain. My 2013 Journey was hit just six weeks after we got it - kid backed into it while we sat in the car. Leaned on the horn but his audio was cranked up so loud he never heard the horn nor checked the mirrors. Not as bad as yours, though - only $1500.00. Hadn't changed the oil yet and only made one payment. It got hit again in December 2014 - lady backed into it while my wife was in the gym, cracked the rear fascia - $1100.00. Two weeks later an 18 year old girl blew a red light and destroyed the whole front end. We hadn't gotten the rear fixed yet! No one got hurt, thank God - $11000.00 damage. My car is a friggin' magnet. You will not have this kind of bad luck! I hope things work out for the best for you and your children.

Wow, that looks awesome! Ya gotta love Copper Pearl!

The price is set by the individual dealer. Some will charge a half-hour labor minimum, others an hour, the selling dealer may do it at no charge as 2late4u has stated. A Vehicle Restoration takes all of 10-15 minutes to perform when the internet connection and the peripheral equipment is all working properly.

Chrysler has always done it that way. The build sheet for my 2000 300M lists springs in the Options section as well. Yes, springs are definitely standard on all cars! The only thing that comes to mind are certain models of Chrysler vehicles have different rate springs within their lineup. My 300M has an optional Performance Handling Group with includes a higher rate spring than a Touring model.

You are right - it does not harm the engine and tranny to use the Autostick feature to slow the car if used properly. I use it all the time on my 300M; the car is on the verge of 300,000 miles on the original engine and transmission, and my brakes last longer, too. To mirror what some of the others have said, the problem with the earlier brakes was their size. The rotors, calipers and pads were undersized for the weight of the car. Minivans, too. There was a warranty extension on rotors and pads on 2008-2010 minivans and 2009-2010 Journeys due to overwhelming complaints (justifiably so) about premature wear and vibration. It wasn't until model year 2013, though, that the larger rotor/caliper/pad combination was put into production on both the minivans and Journeys.

FWD Mainstreets have Touring suspension, AWD models have Performance suspension. Since yours is FWD then you are correct.

Suspension levels in the Journey lineup are determined by the stiffness rating of the shock absorbers. Touring has firmer shock rates than Base, Performance has higher rates than Touring, and R/T has the firmest shocks of all levels. R/T *may* have higher spring rates than the others as well but I have not been able to confirm that in my literature. DHH - all of Chrysler's build sheets list four springs. It's the sales code that corresponds to the spring itself that determines if one has a different rating than another.

I totally feel your pain. Our 2013 Crew, purchased in May 2013 got hit in July of that year - ruined the front fascia. Then in early December 2014 another car backed into the passenger side rear fascia. Didn't even get a chance to fix that - two weeks later a young driver blew a red light and destroyed the front end - $11,000 in damage. It sucks having that new car magic stripped from you when the car is still so new. Does the rear washer work? If so, then there is power to the washer pump (it reverses direction for the rear washer) and the problem then will be a cut or kinked washer fluid supply hose. If neither washer works then there may be a wiring issue. I see your state is Michigan. Could it be that the fluid is simply frozen? I've had plenty of frozen washer tanks in my shop last month. Everything here is frozen, including the bay down the street from my home! Most frozen washer tanks have ice at the bottom and the filler neck still has liquid in it.

We love our 2013 Crew. Mechanically, it has been virtually trouble-free; the only problem with the car was the corrupted Navigation map which necessitated replacement of the radio even though everything else worked. Even after a major accident, it continues to perform and operate as if nothing happened. We decided we would buy another one in the event that the insurance company totaled it; that's how satisfied we are with the car. I'm glad that it was repairable since we really love the one we have.

We had to replace the solenoid pack on my Journey last month as it was damaged in an accident. Once it was replaced, there was a fluid fill and quick learn procedure that had to be done in the shop. You'll have to take it to a dealer or a shop with the correct scan tool to have that done. Not sure if the clicking sound is related to that or not. Autostick may be disabled due to the fault code that has set the Service AWD message. Certain transmission codes will disable that feature.

If equipped remove the fasteners (1) and the Front Sound Damper Cover (2). Remove the top valve body oil pan (3) bolts. Remove the lower valve body oil pan bolts (2) and drain transmission fluid. Remove the valve body oil pan. Remove the electrical connector (1) at the valve body (2).

Remove the lower radiator hose. Remove the solenoid pack connector (2) at valve body oil pan (1). If equipped remove the push pins (1) to front lower closeout. Remove the front lower closeout.

Position oil cooler lines aside away from the valve body pan. Remove shift cable (1) from manual lever (2). Drain the radiator (Refer to 07 - Cooling - Standard Procedure) . Remove clamps at the lower radiator hose.

I tried to copy and paste from the manual but there are too many images to do it in one post, so there will be multiples. Hope this helps: 21 - Transmission and Transfer Case/Automatic - 62TE/VALVE BODY/Removal REMOVAL Labor Operations: Click to display a list of Labor Operations associated with this procedure Special Tools: Click to display a list of tools used in this procedure Click here to launch the form to order any tools you need. 8875A - Disconnect, Transmission Cooler Line Originally Shipped In Kit Number(s) 9202, 9328, 9328-CAN, 9329, 9516, 9575. Remove the engine cover. CAUTION: The negative battery cable remote terminal (2) must be disconnected and isolated from the remote battery post (1) prior to service of the vehicle electrical systems. The negative battery cable remote terminal can be isolated by using the supplied isolation hole (3) in the terminal casing. Disconnect and isolate the negative battery cable (2) remote terminal from the remote battery post (1). Remove air cleaner body. (Refer to 09 - Engine/Air Intake System/BODY, Air Cleaner - Removal) Remove windshield washer reservoir. (Refer to 08 - Electrical/8R - Wipers/Washers/RESERVOIR, Windshield Washer - Removal) Disconnect oil cooler lines (1) from transaxle using Trans Cooler Line Disconnect 8875A . (Refer to