2late4u

check with your dealer to be sure but if it is frt wheel drive only and not all wheel drive then yes you should be able to use a tow dolly with the front wheels lifted , but as i said check with your dealer just to be safe......

One thing to keep this from ever happening again is to request the old parts. Then you can confirm parts were actually replaced and compare if you think they somehow used different parts. Now I know this cannot be a 100% foolproof method, but it keeps them honest. If you find a shop that will go as far as handing you over some junk yard part just to give you something, then they got a lot more problems than just shoddy wormanship going on.

I think what most people are annoyed about are two things... Why have software to control something when not only is it not there, there isn't any way to get it. Most every "option" whether ordered from the factory or not, can be dealer installed. Don't have the oil cooler? The dealer will be happy to charge you for it and install it. Don't have the luggage rack? Again, the dealer will be more than happy to install it for you (for a fee). Don't have the custom wheels? Order them from the dealer. Want DRLs? You're SOL. That's what most people are upset about. I don't think most want them for free, but, they are being told that there is absolutely no way to get the stock DRLs. Whether you like them or not, whether you think the aftermarket looks better, the fact of the matter is that if for some reason you a) didn't know that option was available when you ordered your car b)you bought from dealer stock but want to "upgrade" your purchase or c) you just plain thought that they came with the ability (and they do), there is, apparently, no way after the vehicle leaves the assembly line to have them installed. Evidently, the only thing on the car that can't be installed/fixed/replaced after the car leaves the building.
As for aftermarket, as opposed to stock, I'll take stock. If for some reason I want them off; I turn them off or on via UConnect. The stock look fully integrated to the car (they are). Aftermarket units will always look like "aftermarket" additions since they aren't vehicle specific and they have to be added to the vehicle in places that don't look "designed in". Aftermarket also requires some knowledge of wiring to get them installed properly and with the CANBus, there is always the chance that you can place a load on a monitored line that the system isn't set for and whatever splices you make are subject to weathering and faults. There are also many folks out there that want DRLs, but, don't know which end of wire stripper to hold, let alone how to find a "hot only when running" wire that is bundled up in the wiring harness wraps or how to tap into the power distribution block without melting down the whole bus or how to get them mounted so that they aren't dragging the ground or hanging by their wires after the first freeze or rain. The stock DRL is built in; nothing to fudge, nothing to kludge and if there is a problem with them, the dealer will take care of them under warranty. Yes there appears to be a lot of "angst" and I suspect as more "new" buyers find out they may have been hoodwinked by Dodge (I think they have been based on my reasoning in the first paragraph), there will be new folks wringing their hands and wondering whether anything new has been found for getting them to work. Short of locking the thread, folks are going to be coming here and venting (that's a forum's number one use; whether that is the intention or not). I, fortunately, have a '13 and got mine working. I don't come back to this thread often, but, I do "check in" sometimes just to see if anything's changed. If you aren't interested in the thread, you can always just skip it... For those of you that want your DRLs activated, I hope, that through enough customer pressure, something may, eventually, be done for you. I don't think a law suit is the way to go, but, I'm not into the "sue'em" type mentality, but, maybe enough email complaints to the corporate office will get something moving for you.

I think you mean rewritten...

There is no way I would "drive the car until the issue becomes frequent enough to create a noticeable pattern". That is the most idiotic response I've ever heard from a dealership. This is a serious safety issue and they shouldn't be making you and your family guinea pigs. If they don't know what the problem is they should contact Chrysler directly and ask for assistance. Did they give you another vehicle to drive while they were investigating the problem? I agree with davea180, their "experimenting" would get me seeking another dealership and quick!

That bolt is supposed to be holding the top of the knuckle in place. Your rear tires wore out because the rear suspension CANNOT be in alignment with that bolt loose. Period. It will cause a negative camber and possible toe issue, meaning the rear tires won't want to travel in the same direction. Aka, wears them out very quickly. I would seriously talk to your dealer and Chrysler and have a little talk about who should have paid for those tires.

dang i never ment anything is wrong, and was just correcting your post on the price quote i rec. but you do seem to be reacting quite strongly to a simple observation. but hey if you feel better now so much the better. also my one point of my orginal post was since i only kept my 2011 3 years buying a lifetime warranty might not be a great deal for me. as i said before sorry i ruffled any feathers and have a great day

well i think i am about to pull the trigger on buying the lifetime max warranty and so far the best deal is from Zeigler dodge dealership up in michigain. he wants $2240. using the (gregh) discount but after talking to him he said he could drop it an other $25 by useing (save100 )code so about $2215. with the $100. deductabile per occurance. also the lifetime max coverage is not transferable to the next buyer but it can be cancelled at any time up to 7yr or100k which after that there is no refund.i am thinking since i plan on keeping this one alot longer than my last one and since i am retired i dont need to be trading cars every 3yrs like i used to. and since cars are getting so much more expensive to fix, this does sound like a great deal. what do you all think and or any better deals on OME dodge warranties out there??? still hoping to get a better deal.....oh and thanks to gregsJourney for the link to the Zeigler website as it sometimes is hard to pull up on google.......P.S. when i was talking to bob about the plan he said no taxes on it and said dont forget to use your best reward credit card when paying for it.. so that would be about $25. more off when using my rewards card... lol looking for every trick to save some $$$$$$$

well i think i am about to pull the trigger on buying the lifetime max warranty and so far the best deal is from Zeigler dodge dealership up in michigain. he wants $2240. using the (gregh) discount but after talking to him he said he could drop it an other $25 by useing (save100 )code so about $2215. with the $100. deductabile per occurance. also the lifetime max coverage is not transferable to the next buyer but it can be cancelled at any time up to 7yr or100k which after that there is no refund.i am thinking since i plan on keeping this one alot longer than my last one and since i am retired i dont need to be trading cars every 3yrs like i used to. and since cars are getting so much more expensive to fix, this does sound like a great deal. what do you all think and or any better deals on OME dodge warranties out there??? still hoping to get a better deal.....oh and thanks to gregsJourney for the link to the Zeigler website as it sometimes is hard to pull up on google.......P.S. when i was talking to bob about the plan he said no taxes on it and said dont forget to use your best reward credit card when paying for it.. so that would be about $25. more off when using my rewards card... lol looking for every trick to save some $$$$$$$

Bramfrank makes a very valid point about aftermarket service contracts. I was on the fence about elaborating the cons of aftermarket warranties since you have already purchased it, but if you have a cancellation clause that does not fiscally hurt you then you might consider doing so.
Aftermarket service contracts (often, but not necessarily always) make the owner and the shop jump through many hoops in order to get a claim paid. The contracts are often worded with all kinds of terms which, if not followed to the letter, allow them to sidestep payment to the owner or the shop. It is for those very reasons why my shop will not accept any aftermarket warranties, nor do we sell anything but the Chrysler Service Contracts.
The factory Service Contract is very straightforward. All repairs correspond to an eight digit Labor Operation Number (LOP). There is no guesswork - if a customer's vehicle needs a repair, we simply type the LOP number into the customer's Service Contract. If the LOP is covered by the plan, we get paid no questions asked, and the customer is only responsible for the deductible as stated on their plan. No adjuster to call, no records to show, nothing is open to interpretation by a third party adjuster, often sent to the repair shop by the aftermarket warranty company to verify the shop's claim. Plus, as bramfrank states, all OEM parts are used and the contract is good at ANY Chrysler Group dealer, anywhere. Often times the aftermarket warranty companies will specify their own parts rather than OEM or worse, will pay only for a used part! The store I used to work for years ago sold these aftermarket warranties, and often times we had to leave the car on the lift for days, waiting for an adjuster to come to verify our claim. The customer was left with a disabled car at our shop and the contract company would not pay for a rental while you waited for them to authorize payment. This never happens with a Chrysler plan.
I purchased a Lifetime Maximum Care Contract of our Journey even though I work for a dealer and pay cost for parts. These cars have some very expensive electronics in them, not to mention the engine and tranny. I'm still driving my last new car - a 2000 300M with 286,000 miles on it. Our Journey may very well follow suit, especially if it will only cost me $100.00 to put a motor or a tranny in it, not to mention replacement of that nice 8.4" touchscreen which is bound to go bad after a few years. Plus, should anything ever happen to me, my wife will never have to worry about a repair bill exceeding $100.00 for as long as she owns the car. Something to think about.

it will be a 32 or 34 mm cant remember which. if you have a 36 mm stick it up to it an if it will touch the points on the nut its a 34 mm if it will spin around the nut its a 32 mm.

Correct - the upper intake manifold must be removed. Unless you have the correct tools and experience, this should be left to a technician whose skill level is commensurate with the job. Going by the Labor Operation number assigned to this job by Chrysler, I would have to delegate this job to one of my techs whose training level was second highest or highest (level 2 or 3) in order to submit a warranty claim in the event that we were doing this job under warranty. Here's an overview:
08 - Electrical/8I - Ignition Control/COIL, Ignition/Removal 3.6L Labor Operations: Click to display a list of Labor Operations associated with this procedure
Disconnect and isolate the negative battery cable.
If removing the ignition coils from cylinders 1 and 3 on the RH side of the engine, first remove the resonator (Refer to 09 - Engine/Air Intake System/RESONATOR, Air Cleaner - Removal) .
If removing the ignition coils from cylinders 2, 4 or 6 on the LH side of the engine, first remove the upper intake manifold (2) and insulator (Refer to 09 - Engine/Manifolds/MANIFOLD, Intake - Removal) .
NOTE:
The LH ignition coils are shown, the RH ignition coils are similar.

Unlock and disconnect the electrical connector (1) from the ignition coil.
Remove the ignition coil mounting bolt (3).
Pull the ignition coil (2) from cylinder head cover opening with a slight twisting action.
And now for the intake manifold removal:
09 - Engine, 3.6L / Manifolds / MANIFOLD, Intake/Removal UPPER Labor Operations: Click to display a list of Labor Operations associated with this procedure
Disconnect and isolate the negative battery cable.
Remove the engine cover (1).

Remove the resonator (1) (Refer to 09 - Engine/Air Intake System/RESONATOR, Air Cleaner - Removal) .

Disconnect the electrical connectors from the Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor (1) and the Electronic Throttle Control (ETC) (7).
Disengage the ETC harness from the clip (8) on the throttle body. Disengage the wire harness retainers (4 and 5) from the upper intake manifold near the MAP sensor and reposition the wire harness.
Disconnect the following hoses from the upper intake manifold: Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) (3) vapor purge (6) brake booster (2)

Disengage the wire harness retainer (4) from the upper intake manifold support bracket (5).
Disengage the wire harness retainer (3) from the studbolt (2).
Remove two nuts (1), loosen the studbolt (2) and reposition the upper intake manifold support bracket (5).

Remove the nut (2) from the support bracket of the heater core return tube (1).

Remove two nuts (1), loosen two studbolts (3) and reposition the two upper intake manifold support brackets (2).
NOTE:
The upper intake manifold attaching bolts are captured in the upper intake manifold. Once loosened, the bolts will have to be lifted out of the lower intake manifold and held while removing the upper intake manifold.
NOTE:
Exercise care not to inadvertently loosen the two fuel rail attachment bolts that are in close proximity of the upper intake manifold attaching bolts.

Remove seven manifold attaching bolts (1) and remove the upper intake manifold (2).

Remove and discard the six upper to lower intake manifold seals (1).
Cover the open intake ports to prevent debris from entering the engine.
If required, remove the insulator (2) from the LH cylinder head cover.
As I stated earlier - my feeling is that your misfire is head-related. Yes, it could be a bad coil but usually that is accompanied by a dead miss and a flashing engine light, neither of which you stated are occurring. You also may have a bad injector as well. They often give the same symptom as a bad coil but sometimes not as severe. Have it diagnosed at a reputable dealer. If you end up needing a cylinder head, the head will be covered by the 10 year / 150K warranty extension which was recently issued by the factory.

what is 3.75 tips???? and it prob. would or could void your warranty if a problem comes up with your journey.. not worth the chance i would think

They haven't used plug wires for some time... They are coil packs (black squares with what appears to be potting on the top). The wires leading to them are much thinner that a plug wire too, so if you don't know what you are looking for it may be hard to see. On the image on the left side of this page (http://www.allpar.com/mopar/phoenix-engines.html) the coil packs are the 3 black squares on the top with the 2 bolts in them...

Dealer is the last resort for me, unless I know it will be covered by warranty. I do all I can myself. If I can't figure out something, I'll pay a local shop that I trust for an hour of labor to diagnose a problem, then I'll fix it myself.

i would listen to aukfan33, unless your a great mech.

Please take a look at my thread about rental reimbursement. There's an RRT for this very issue. The problem is the cylinder head is defective and will need to be replaced. Even if they don't want to use the RRT, this will be covered by the powertrain warranty.

I always make the dealership has rentals provided for warranty repairs. If not, I find another dealer.

no problems just get the stud replaced and remember wheel nuts are about 95-100 ft pounds buy a tourqe wrench as at 95-100 is not as tight as you would expect, you are over torqueing and risk warping your rotors.....

look in your owners manual i believe it says if the covered repair takes overnite they will provide a rental during your repair. check it out or google it....

Have you not ever researched car prices on the internet??
As stated, kelly blue book will give you a general idea in your area. Also visit some dealership websites, or autotrader, carmax, cars.com. See what other, similarily equipped DJ's are going for.

Quoting almost verbatim from the warranty guide - tires are the only item not covered by the New Car Limited Warranty, and are covered by the tire manufacturer themselves.
With 23,000 miles now on my Journey, the OEM Kumho Solus KH16's (225/55/19) are still every bit as smooth, quiet, and balanced as they were on day one. The car tracks straight and true with absolutely no vibration. I've rotated them twice and have never had to balance any one wheel. The current tread depth is at least 6/32" (they were 10/32" new). Barring any road hazards, I'm on track to go 40K miles on these before replacement. We'll see. I have read about all the problems people have had with them and have expected the worst, but I've been very fortunate, I guess. None of the problems I've read about have materialized thus far. I've always loved Michelins and both my 300M's wore them as OEM tires, but if these Kumhos continue to wear and perform as they have to this point, I would replace them with the same ones again, no questions asked. Very satisfied so far.

Areas that might be cause of vibration/shimmy in the past posts
are warped rotors , brake pad hung up (not retracting) ,poorly
torqued wheel nuts ,tire failure (broken radial belt) and recently
posted a build up of dirt between the rim and chrome cladding
on wheel rims.

looks like time to buy some new tires for you. you realize that a tire is a wear item and with 30 k on them no way would they be covered. now if after you had bought a tire warranty from kumo then you could file a claim with them but still dont think you would get them to help you much with that milage on them......

There have been transmission software updates along the way. Yours may need an update. I also have a 300M (two of them, actually) and they shift more smoothly and predictably than my 2013 Journey. I like the extra ratios but the action is a bit abrupt or busy. I have learned to live with the shift quality but it is the only performance characteristic of the vehicle that I don't care for.
Intermittently inoperative cruise control is also a common issue. Most times the root cause is traced to the steering wheel switches. We keep them in stock at my shop for this reason. Not just DJ, but Grand Cherokees and Durangos as well.